ARBA Digital Library

American Rabbit Breeders Association

Guide Book and Standard, 1928 - 1929


Guide Book and Standard, 1928 - 1929


Rabbits -- Guide books

Rabbits -- Breed standards


“Guide Book and Standard, 1928 - 1929,” ARBA Digital Library, accessed May 29, 2024,

The American Rabbit
Cavy Breeders Association
PRICE $2.00
Copies of This Book can be Secured by Mailing above Amount to
A. WEYGANDT, Secretary
7408 Normal Ave.

This book is published for the benefit of the members of our association and we hope you appreciate it and our efforts will not be in vain.
A book of this kind like our leading journals and newspapers cannot be made to suit all individuals for some prefer the “Sporting Page,” others the “Society News,” etc., but in publishing this book our object is to please the big majority of our members and we believe we are successfully doing so.
We believe each member is entitled to a book of this kind with his membership and while some information will not be of much interest to the Old Breeder we must bear in mind that we have many new members who will be benefited by the simple instructions on breeding, care, etc., and thus may be the means of starting them on the road to success.
We thank all who have given their support in the publishing of this book as your good work is appreciated.
Very truly yours,
J. S. Bales, President.
Ed Stahl, Vice-President.
A. Weygandt, Secretary.
Miss N. M. Flaherty, Treasurer.
W. H. Blair, Chairman of Board of Directors.
John C. Fehr.
Lewis S. J. Griffin.
H. B. Swalley.
Mrs. Etta E. Powers.
American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association......................... 7
Brief History of the Association, by John C. Fehr..................... 9
Report of the Tenth Annual Meeting, Tampa, Fla., Feb. 2-5, 1928....... 11
Secretary’s Report for the Year of 1927............................... 19
Constitution and By-Laws.............................................. 25
Rules for Registrations............................................... 31
Official Show Rules................................................... 33
Instructions for Registrars........................................... 36
The American Registration System...................................... 38
A. R. & C. B. A. Licensed Registrars................................. 40
A. R. & C. B. A. Licensed Judges...................................... 42
State Representatives for 1928........................................ 44
Associations Holding Charter with A. R. & C. B. A..................... 45
Breeds of Rabbits, by A. Weygandt..................................... 49
Breeding and Care of Rabbits by Experience............................ 66
Feeding Rabbits, by A. Weygandt....................................... 74
Proper Housing of Rabbits, by Stahl and Bunt.......................... 77
A. R. & C. B. A. Demonstration Plant.................................. 85
Line Breeding ........................................................ 94
Our Standards ........................................................ 95
Champion Certificates ................................................ 96
Cost of Producing Rabbits, by M. L. Thayer............................ 98
The Promotion of the Rabbit Industry in America, by Jas. Bunt.....102
According to Nature, by M. L. Thayer..................................105
Record Keeping, by M. L. Thayer.......................................108
Diseases of Rabbits...................................................113
Rabbit Meet—Cooking and Canning, by J. Hathaway Scharff...............120
Uncle Sam Recommends Domestic Rabbit Meat.............................130
U. S. Department of Agriculture Assisting in the Development of Our Industry .............................................................131
Skinning and Dissecting Rabbits, by Harry Herrlein....................132
The Cavy Industry, by Fred T. Witt....................................140
Breeding Cavies, by E. D. Corron......................................143
Cavy Management, by Prof. Herman L. Ibsen.............................145
Housing Cavies, by M. Stoner..........................................148
Ranching Fur Bearing Animals, by Harry L. LaDue.......................149
Rat Farming ..........................................................155
Mice Farming .........................................................156
Membership List ......................................................158
Standards of Perfection for Rabbits...................................208
Standards of Perfection for Cavies....................................255
Advertisements .......................................................261
What We Are Doing for the Breeders
A Central Bureau of Information for the Breeders: We maintain a bureau of Information for the benefits of all interested in our industry and in this manner get many interested and started into the breeding of Rabbits, Cavies, etc. These beginners must purchase stock and in this manner the present Breeders who have stock to sell are benefitted.
A Registration System: We maintain a Registration System whereby you can have your Rabbits registered and a correct record kept of each animal indefinitely. We also have a staff of competent Registrars scattered throughout the country to handle this important work for the Breeders.
A Staff of Expert Judges: We also maintain a staff of expert Judges of Rabbits and Cavies to judge shows so the Breeder will know his stock is judged according to our Standard of Perfection when he sends his stock where one of these Licensed Judges is officiating.
We Revise and Make Standards: We revise and make new standards from time to time covering all breeds of Rabbits and Cavies to guide the breeders in producing thoroughbred stock and a copy is furnished Free to Each member.
Markets for Meat Rabbits: We locate markets for meat Rabbits all over the U. S. and Canada and advise many new beginners daily where they can dispose of their meat rabbits.
Markets for Cavies: We have advised many the past year where they could dispose of their Cavies and while we advise all who can to build up a local market of their own in order to secure better prices but same are unable to do this and we are glad to help out when ever possible to do so.
Market for Babbit Skins: We have a Special Representative, Mr. Harry G. Herrlein, New York City, N. Y., who will maintain a receiving station in New York City, and will accept all rabbit skins forwarded to him and secure for yon the best prices obtainable for same. Write him direct.
This Up to Date Rabbit Book and Standard Free: This book is furnished you free and I believe you will admit it is well worth the membership fee. We believe in giving our members full value for their money.
Twenty Thousand Free Bulletins Issued: Our association the past two years has published and distributed free much literature relative to our industry in order to give it more publicity, as follows:
Guide Book and Standard, all breeds.
Bulletin No. 10.
Bulletin No. 9.
Pelt Problem Circulars.
Publicity Stickers.
Edwin H. Stahl, Vice-Pres. Holmes Park, Mo.
J. S. Bales, Pres.
R. F. D. No. 2 Springfield, I11.
A. Weygandt, Sec. 7409 Normal Ave. Chicago, I11.
H. B. Swalley. Director Nebraska City, Nebr.
Miss N. M. Flaherty, Treas. 3024 Calumet Ave. Chicago, I11.
W. H. Blair Chairman of Board Lamoni, Iowa
by John C. Fehr.
Prior to about 1911 there had been no National Rabbit Associations, by that, I mean, Associations devoted to the advancement of all breeds of rabbits. True, there had been numerous Belgian Hare Clubs and Associations. The first of these that I affiliated with was the American Belgian Hare Club. Albert Zeigler of Bippus, Indiana, being the secretary-treasurer. Every year I was notified that my yearly dues of 50 cents were now payable and I was requested to renew. This was about the extent of the benefits derived from this Association. About this time I saw a small advertisement in one of the Poultry Journals relative to an Association called the National Pet Stock Association. This name appealed to me and I at once sent in my $1.00. Wm. Lyons of Waukeegan, Illinois, was the president, and George Eckert, secretary-treasurer. I supposed I was joining an association with thousands of members, but to my surprise on attending my first official national show at Chicago the following year I found that I was about the twenty-second member of this great national association. The following year Roy Knill, of Chicago, was elected president, and Charles Gibson, of Detroit, secretary. Gibson, being a railroad man running between Chicago and St. Louis, had an opportunity of boosting the industry and regardless of what transpired later on, I will say that Gibson worked hard and did more to really put rabbits on the map than any other man in the country. Charles Gibson remained as secretary during the terms of the following presidents: Henry Adolph, Billy Ashton, Lewis Salisbury, Joseph Blank, and part of the term of Ellis De Lancey.
It was during the term of Joseph Blank that the trouble which had been brewing came to a climax, in that the organization split; one faction fighting to keep on top, the other quietly awaiting developments. The election of officers until this time was really a farce. Mr. Gibson in his travels would run across a live wire and at once boost him for president. The association was until then so small and Gibson was personally acquainted with most of them and he could easily put over anything he wanted. It was in this manner that Adolph, Ashton, and Blank became presidents. Mr. De Lancey also was elected in this manner at his first election. Mr. Gibson saw that the support of most of the magazines was getting away from him, so he though it good politics to tie up with De Lancey, which he did. At this stage the membership began to increase to such an extent that they were calling for a business administration and it seemed impossible to get a proper financial report at the annual meeting. The report usually was short and sweet, similar to the financial report of the secretary-treasurer of the German singing society that I belonged to at one time. His name was Henry Victor and his annual report always read as follows: “All paid in and all paid out. (Signed) Henry Victor.” The board of directors finally decided that to have Mr. Gibson appointed as organizer and have a secretary that would devote most of his time to the office would solve the problem. So a Mr. Pike was put in as secretary. He started in like a house on fire. The country was flooded with circular letters. The magazines boosted him, and from all indications things were booming, but, my goodness, what an awakening at the annual meeting. The treasury was bankrupt, and stacks of unpaid bills. With their backs to the wall the diretcors endeavored to fight their way out. One thing was settled—they must have a secretary with business ability, one that was absolutely honest, and one who was enough interested in the future of the rabbit industry to work his head off for at least a year or two without any
assurance of financial returns. Mr. A. Weygandt was approached on the subject and he was finally induced to take over this wreck and see what he could do. Right here I wish to say that I was not a member of this association during the term of Mr. Blank or the first two terms of Mr. De Lancey, but when I was informed of the actions at the Chicago convention by Mr. Edward Stahl, I promised him that if they really intended to run this association in a business like manner and support Mr. Weygandt, that I would be with them and bring my friends with me, and this I did do and I am proud of the record of Mr. Weygandt. He has paid off all the old debts, gotten out two editions of year books, and another one is now in the making and as soon as the changes in the standard are adopted by the convention the new book will go to print. He has issued several bulletins, a book for beginners, a pocket standard, $500.00 to fight the high express rates, and still he shows a surplus of over $2,000.00. We now give the Specialty Clubs ten cents on each registration. We are working hand-in-hand with all the Specialty Clubs and they are working with us. After going over this brief history with me, I ask you in all fairness if you can blame the board of directors for refusing to make a change in the office of secretary. Personally, as long as I am one of the directors, Mr. Weygandt will have my wholehearted support. I think we all owe Mr. Weygandt a vote of thanks for the able, conscientious and business-like administration he has given us, and I predict that to continue him in office will mean a membership of 25,000 in less than five years.
In conclusion, I am going to ask every breeder who is interested in a clean, legitimate industry to join our Specialty Club. Join the A. R. &
C. B. Association. Study and breed to our standards. Have your rabbits registered in the A. R. & C. B. Association. Show your stock at official A. R. & C. B. Association shows. Organize local clubs, organize state associations, and affiliate with the A. R. & C. B. Association. Boost and support your county and state fairs, and by all means, try to attend our annual convention. If you cannot attend send in your suggestions in the form of resolutions and, if possible, every local or state association should send a delegate. The officers of this association are your servants. If we are giving you good service, tell your friends, if not tell us, so we may know how to improve. I want to thank all my friends for their loyal support during some of these trying days and I assure you the future looks exceedingly bright to me.
The Annual Convention of the American Babbit & Cavy Breeders Association held at Tampa, Florida, February 2 to 5, 1928, proved to be a wonderful convention both from an Association standpoint as well as a boost to our Industry in the U. S. A. and Canada and also accomplished much in the way of promoting our Industry in the Southeastern States, which is practically a new field and composed of many new breeders, and many prospective breeders, who in a short time will be active and possessing rabitries of their own.
A special car from Chicago going direct through to Tampa composed a merry party of eighteen (18), mostly officers of the Association, and all enjoyed the trip and arrived in Tampa Tuesday afternoon, January 31st.
Beautiful weather and bright sunshine greeted the officers and delegates all week and the weather being ideal after the business was attended to the first week and all work completed everyone enjoyed the beautiful Florida sunshine and many interesting trips were made, and we thank the breeders of this section for their hospitality and efforts made to show all visitors a royal good time.
The show, although not large for a Convention, consisted of many good specimens and was cooped in a nice building and the large auditorium where the Convention meetings were held was convenient and easily attended from the show room.
All meetings of the American as well as the Special Clubs were full of interest and everyone attending was interested only in doing something to further the interest of the Breeders and much good will come out of the work done at this Convention.
The opening session of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association was held at 2 P. M. February 2d, at the Municipal Auditorium, Tampa, Florida. President J. S. Bales opened the meeting with a short talk and an address of welcome, briefly reviewing the past year’s work and the progress of the American Association.
Secretary Weygandt’s report (printed elsewhere) for the year was read and accepted, and the following committees were appointed:
Committee on Counting Election Ballots
Chairman, Dr. E. E. Kerr; Mr. Carl F. Hinshaw, Mr. W. B. Garland.
Committee on Resolutions
Chairman, Mr. W. H. Blair; Mr. Ed. H. Stahl, Mr. Carl F. Hinshaw, Mr. John C. Fehr, Capt. H. B. Babbington.
Auditing Committee
Chairman, Mr. Oscar Schultze; Dr. E. E. Kerr, Mr. Fred M. Leach, Mr. W. B. Garland, Mr. Stuart A. Graham.
Dr. E. E. Kerr, Chairman of the Committee, appointed to count election ballots, reported as follows;
President—Bales, 464; Storms, 216.
Vice-President—Stahl, 515; Hookway, 198.
Secretary—Weygandt, 677; Waldron, 13.
Treasurer—Flaherty, 504; Barnhardt, 169.
Director—Blair, 601; Griffith, 548; Leach, 191; Powers, 435; Reeder, 257.
Committee report was accepted as read.
Chairman Kerr reported that it was impossible to come to any def-
inite conclusion on the election of State Representative on account of so many in the same state receiving the same number of votes.
After a further discussion, Judge John C. Fehr advised that a resolution was to be put through at the convention that would take care of this matter.
Treasurer's Report
On account of Treasurer, Miss Flaherty, being unable to attend Convention on account of sickness, Secretary Weygandt read her report as follows:
Cash Cash
Received Disbursed
Balance on hand January 1, 1927...................$ 777.05
January, 1927 ....................................... 87.38
February, 1927 ...................................... 39.82
March, 1927 ........................................ 372.81
April, 1927 ........................................ 157.19
May, 1927 .......................................... 126.16 *335.25
June, 1927 ......................................... 306.64
July, 1927 ......................................... 160.04 f300.00
August, 1927 ........................................ 65.91
September, 1927 .................................... 300.72
October, 1927 ....................................... 30.42
November, 1927 ..................................... 213.51
December, 1927 ..................................... 249.95
Balance on hand, December 31, 1927................ 2,252.05
Total.........................................$2,887.30 $2,887.30
•Pocket Standards. †Bulletin No. 9.
Report was accepted as read.
Oscar Schultze offered a resolution to send our Treasurer, Miss Flaherty, a wire regretting her inability to attend the Convention on account of sickness, signed by our President at the meeting. Mr. Griffin made an amendment to the resolution to the effect that a bouquet of flowers be presented to Miss Flaherty by wire, the signatures of all present attached, sending their sympathy and wishing her a speedy recovery. This resolution carried unanimously and committee appointed consisted of Mr. Griffin, Dr. Larra-bee and Mrs. Leach.
Motion was made to adjourn until second session to be held at the same place at 8 p. m. at same date.
The second session of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association was held at the Municipal Auditorium, Tampa, Florida, 8 p. m., February 2, 1928.
President J. S. Bales called the meeting to order.
Secretary A. Weygandt read the communication from Mr. H. G. Herr-lein of New York, and also his annual report of the A. R. & C. B. A. Breeders Exchange (printed elsewhere).
Chairman Bales then requested report from the Resolutions Committee and Mr. Blair, chairman of this committee, presented the resolutions and each was discussed in detail, as all resolutions must be presented at one meeting for discussion and passed at the next meeting for action.
Each resolution was thoroughly discussed and these discussions occupied the remainder of the second session and the resolutions were voted on at the third session and you will see all resolutions brought up by the Resolutions Committee in the following report of the third session.
Motion was made to adjourn until the next session which was held at 2 p. m., February 3, 1928, same place.
The third session of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association was held at the Municipal Auditorium, Tampa, Florida, at 2 p. m., February 3, 1928.
The meeting was called to order by President Bales, and report of the Auditing Committee was requested to be read, which is as follows:
This is to certify that we have this day audited the books of the American Babbit & Cavy Breeders Association, and have found them correct to the best of our knowledge and belief. Signed, Oscar F. Schultze, Andrew Graham, Fred N. Leach.
A report of the Resolutions Committee was requested and the following resolutions were re-read by Mr. Blair and voted upon.
1. After January 1, 1929, all rabbits to qualify for registration must be out of registered sire and dam. The following clause to take care of imported stock and new breeds, imported pure bred stock and new breeds that have been granted working standard and have been displayed at official show as per rules of A. R. & C. B. A., may be entered at official Convention Show, and if passed on favorably by a committee of three licensed judges, they can then be registered, but this must be done in the presence of the three official judges or have their approval.—John C. Fehr.
This resolution caused much discussion, and when first presented, it was decided to table it until next session. Judge Fehr, who offered the resolution, requested that same be withdrawn and the same was withdrawn, but after the other resolution was made and passed that this resolution be carried over until the next session for further action.
2. To the Resolutions Committee at the Tampa, Florida, Convention, Greetings:
Whereas, Rabbit exhibitors at the local shows have expressed dissatisfaction with that part of Sec. 25 of the show rules of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association which bars does and litters from being counted in figuring up for cups and specials, and
Whereas, The sentiment of the breeders is that any animal placing should be allowed to compete in displays, therefore, the Pacific Rabbit Breeders Association, of Hayward, California, a local holding a charter with the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, suggests and recommends very earnestly that the show rules be changed so as to allow all animals, including does and litters, that place first, second or third to compete in display.—President H. C. Bliss, Hayward, Calif.; Secretary-Treasurer Edward W. Korstad, Hayward, Calif.
This resolution was rejected.
3. Resolved, That any individual specimen may be entered and shown in but one class only.—Stark Co. Rabbit Breeders Association, Canton, Ohio, Earl Scutters, Sec’y.
This resolution was rejected.
4. Resolved, That all states having a state association affiliated with the A. R. & C. B. Association in that state, where there is no state association, the state representative will be appointed by the Board of Directors of the A. R. & C. B. Association from names submitted by local associations.—J. C. Fehr.
This resolution was adopted as read.
5. To The Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association of America:
We, the undersigned rabbit breeders, being members of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, wish to state that in our opinion the holding of the Convention for 1927, during the second month of the year 1928, is not to the interest of the rabbit breeders in general who prefer to have their year’s winnings and other earnings tabulated by the end of December, thereby enabling them to plan their breeding pens from such winners for the coming year.
And, that the holding of the show during the early months prevents many from attending, as the majority of breeders are busying themselves with their spring activities.
We have found this a detriment to the industry.—N. M. Broadhurst, Mrs. J. French, Mrs. L. Schwartye, N. Greenwood, John S. Hickford, W. French.
This resolution was rejected.
6. Santa Clara Valley Rabbit Breeders Association, San Jose, Calif.
Pacific Rabbit Breeders Association, Hayward, Calif.
Resolution No. 1
Official Show Rules, Sec. 25, lines 5, 6, 7 read:
Does and litter not to be counted in figuring sweepstakes for cups and specials outside of doe and litter classes.
Should be entirely eliminated or read:
Doe and litter exhibits to receive the double amount of points.
Resolution No. 2
Ruling should be printed in the Official Show Rules:
“Every specimen in doe and litter exhibit must be free of disqualifi-cations; otherwise the exhibit will be disqualified.”
Resolution No. 3
Ruling should be made:
“Doe and litter exhibits must have not less than 4 and not more than 6 young to the litter.”
Resolution No. 4
Ruling should be made:
“The age of the litter in doe and litter exhibit should be not less than 6 and not more than 12 weeks.”
This resolution was rejected:
7. In regard to Registrars. Chapter 9 of Constitution and By-Laws of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., 1926-1927.
Whereas, The qualification of applicant for registrars’ licenses as specified in Sec. 1, Chapter 9, are not stringent enough to qualify said applicant.
Whereas, Applicant for registrar’s license shall be qualified in all breeds of rabbits, known to the Association. And applicant present positive proof of said requirements.
And Whereas, A Board of Supervisors of each state of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., residing in the state wherein applicant for registrar’s license is applied for, shall constitute a board of examiners, before which body various breeds of rabbits shall be placed before said applicant to point out the qualifications, and the disqualifications.
And Whereas, It may be impossible for all of supervisors to be present at said meeting of examiners, it shall then be deemed necessary for such of the supervisors to use their most careful judgment of applicant by mail, in which case questionnaires shall be provided.
Therefore be it Resolved, That Chapter 9, Section 1, be amended to read as follows:
Section 1. The application for all Registrar’s License shall be made to the Supervisors. One or more, of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., residing in the state wherein applicant for registrar’s license is applied for shall constitute a board of examiners, before which body the applicant must point out the qualification and disqualification of the various breeds of rabbits placed before said applicant. When it may be impossible for all supervisors to be present at said meeting of examination, it shall then be deemed necessary for each of the supervisors to render his judgment of application by mail, in which case questionnaires shall be provided by said Board of examiners, said questionnaires to be furnished Board of examiners by the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association Incorporated.
[Signed] Mrs. N. Gannon.
This resolution was rejected.
8. “Whereas it appears that the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association has in the past granted charters to more than one local organization where said locals operated in the same territory which territory
each local had considered to be its exclusive territory in which to canvass for memberships and Whereas this condition has caused each local to look upon the others with suspicion as to the ultimate intent of the other and has thereby caused a fight for the right of self preservation, therefore
Be it resolved: That every Chartered Local Association shall have certain defined Territorial Limits in which territory the charter shall grant exclusive membership rights provided that no charter shall be granted to exceed an area of two (2) states or parts of two (2) states or one state and part of another state and provided further that no person may be accepted into membership in any chartered local in whose jurisdiction he does not reside until the local in whose jurisdiction applicant does reside shall have first granted a waiver of membership to said applicant upon application of local in which applicant desires membership and that this provision shall apply to all new and renewed memberships; and be it further provided that no charter shall be granted unto any newly organized body of breeders until all locals in the territorial limits already chartered shall have been notified and, the newly organized local body shall have been granted a “waiver of territorial jurisdiction” from any and all locals operating in previously charter-granted territory and provided further that in the granting of Territorial Limits (or Jurisdiction) the oldest chartered local shall have first consideration and provided further that the application for Territorial rights shall be accompanied by a marked map showing the territory applied for.”
The above Resolution is also endorsed by the Essex County Poultry, Pigeon and Pet Stock Association. R. Van Dyke, Secretary per J. S. Aardema.
Presented by the New Jersey Rabbit Breeders Association.
J. S. Aardema, Recording Secretary,
Patterson, N. J.
This resolution was rejected.
9. Therefore be it, and it is resolved that:
At all rabbit shows of this Association, or clubs affiliated with this association, that a member of the show committee be appointed by the chairman of show committee to mail to each exhibitor, within twenty-four hours from ending of judging, a notice of his awards.
Also, that show secretary forward to each winner, any awards or premiums due, at least twelve days prior to sending of show reports to any journal or magazine for publication. Geo. Fain, 219 Washington St., St. Charlotte, Mich.
This resolution was rejected.
10. Resolutions submitted by the Eastern Rabbit Breeders Association.
Resolved: That licenses for the office of assistant judge be granted,
and that applicant shall have served at three shows under a duly licensed judge and that application be granted under the now existing rules covering applications. The fee to be $1.00 per year.
Be it further resolved: That applicant for the office of a fully licensed judge shall have served as an assistant licensed judge at three shows, and that application be granted under the now existing rules covering applications. The fee to be $2.00 per year.
Resolved: That any assistant or judge remaining in arrears with his or her dues shall be automatically suspended after a period of thirty days from expiration date, and that notice of suspension be published in at least three rabbit journals. Delinquents to be notified by registered mail before such notice of suspension is published.
Respectfully submitted by the Eastern Rabbit Breeders Association.
Albert E. Facey, Jr., Sec’y-Treas.
Represented by Cecar V. Sanultise.
This resolution was rejected.
11. Resolved: That the American Rabbit & Cavy Association, now in Convention, organize the U. S. A., in five districts known as the East, West,
North, South and Central or Main Districts, each holding annual conven-tions and show. The four send delegates to Central Convention.
This resolution was rejected.
12. So be it Resolved, That the registrar hold duplicate copy of registration sheet instead of giving same to owner of rabbit being registered.
M. Stoner, B. F. Carlton, C. F. Schultze.
This resolution was adopted with amendment made by Mr. Goss that as soon as the present supplies were exhausted that the officers be instructed to have the registration blanks printed in triplicate instead of duplicate. This amendment was accepted as read, and adopted.
13. Resolved: That in judging specials of various colors, where whites are entered, that the whites be penalized to the extent of 5 points.
This resolution was rejected.
14. Resolved: That at all sanctioned shows at this A. R. & C. B.
Association, that all specials and prize money be guaranteed by the Association holding the show. W. H. Blair.
This resolution was adopted as read.
14-A. Said club or organization shall not offer any said specials a cash prize over its maximum of $25 on any one animal. W. H. Blair.
This resolution was rejected.
15. Resolved: That it shall be strongly recommended for all shows,
meetings and conventions, operating, or showing under sanction of the A. R. & C. B. A. to submit to the directors of this Association at its main office, a full and complete list of all prizes both regular and special to be offered by these at such proposed show. Such premium lists to be so submitted at least 60 days prior to the proposed opening date of such show. Be it further resolved that this rule is not intended to apply to or cover any special ribbons, cups or specials that may be offered by any of the various Federations or Breeders Associations operating under and recognized officially by this organization. C. W. Goss.
This resolution was re-submitted to the next session to be acted upon.
16. Supplement 1: Resolved: That the Secretary of the A. R. & C. B. A. secure an understanding and offer a protest with the American Poultry Association relative to the Licensed Judges of the A. P. A. Judging Rabbit Exhibits advertised as A. R. & C. B. A. standards, without a proper license from the A. R. & C. B. A. Inc. Chas. J. Adams.
This resolution was re-submitted to the next session to be acted upon.
Supplement 2: That the Secretary of the A. R. & C. B. A. Inc. (when his notice is called to it) instruct Fairs and Fair managements, conditions under which they may show standards and show rules of the Association, making no charges for their use other than the employment of a Licensed Judge of the A. R. & C. B. A. Inc. And for this service judges will charge only a minimum compared to that charged by other live stock and poultry judges. Chas. J. Adams.
This resolution was re-submitted to the next session to be acted upon.
Supplement 3: That the Secretary of the A. R. & C. B. A., Inc., endeavor to obtain an understanding with the Fairs and Fair management, or Secretary, asking the same consideration as other live stock and poultry associations in the matter of regular fair exhibits. Chas. J. Adams.
This resolution was re-submitted to the next session to be acted upon.
Motion was made to adjourn until next session to be held at 11 a. m., February 4th, same place and date.
The fourth session of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association was held at the Municipal Auditorium, Tampa, Florida, at 11 a. m., February 4, 1928.
President J. S. Bales called the meeting to order and at the opening of the meeting Secretary A. Weygandt read a letter from The Belgian-Florida Trading Company.
Report of the Auditing Committee was made by Mr. Oscar Schultze, and this report was accepted as read.
Mr. W. H. Blair, Chairman of the Resolutions Committee, read the following resolutions, and they were voted upon.
15. Resolved, That it shall be strongly recommended for all shows, meetings and Conventions, operating or showing under sanction of the A. R. & C. B. Association to submit to the Directors of this Association at its main office, a full and complete list of all prizes both regular and special to be offered by them at such proposed show, such premium lists to be so submitted at least 60 days prior to the proposed opening date of such show. Be it resolved, that this rule is not intended to apply to or cover any special ribbons, cups or specials that may bo offered by any various Federa-tions or Breeders Associations operating under and recognized officially by this organization.
This resolution was adopted as read.
16. Supplement 1. Resolved, That the Secretary of the A. R. & C. B. A. secure an understanding and offer a protest with the American Poultry Association, relative to Licensed Judges of the A. P. A. judging Rabbit Exhibits advertised as A. R. & C. B. A. standards without a proper license from the A. R. & C. B. A., Inc.—Chas. J. Adams.
This resolution was adopted.
Supplement 2. That the Secretary of the A. R. & C. B. A., Inc. (when his notice is called to it) instruct fairs and fair managements of conditions under which they may use Standards and Show Rules of the Association, making no charges for their use other than the employment of a Licensed Judge of the A. R. & C. B. A., Inc.
And for this service Judges will charge only a minimum compared to that charged by other Live Stock and Poultry Judges.—Chas. J. Adams.
This resolution was rejected.
Supplement 3: That the Secretary of the A. R. & C. B. A., Inc., endeavor to obtain an understanding with the Fairs and Fair Management, or Secretary, asking the same consideration as other Live Stock and Poultry Associations in the matter of regular fair exhibits.—Chas. J. Adams.
This resolution was rejected.
17. Resolved, That Junior Judges be appointed by the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association for the purpose of judging local and table shows, said Judges to be recommended by any local Association affiliated with the A. R. & C. B. A., fee to be one dollar a year.
Be it Further Resolved, That applicant for the office of a fully licensed Judge shall have served as an assistant licensed Judge at three shows, and that application be granted under the now existing rules covering applications. The fee to be $2.00 per year.—Oscar F. Schultze.
This resolution was adopted.
The following resolutions were read by W. H. Blair and discussed in detail, after which meeting adjourned for a few minutes and another session was held and the resolutions were voted upon.
18. On and after January 1, 1929, no rabbit will be entitled to registration with this Association where sire is not registered and after January 1, 1930, no rabbit shall be registered unless both sire and dam are registered.—Dr. C. W. Larrabee.
This resolution was adopted as read.
19. Resolved, That after January 1, 1929, the following clause to take care of imported stock and new breeds. Imported pure bred stock and new breeds that have been granted a working standard and have been displayed at official show as per rules of A. R. & C. B. Association, may be entered at official Convention Show and if passed on favorably by a committee of three licensed judges, they can then be registered, but this must be done in the presence of the three official judges or have their approval.—John C. Fehr.
This resolution was adopted as read.
20. Resolved, That on and after January 1, 1929, the former ruling of any one judge having right to register a rabbit without pedigree be can-
celled and in future only rabbits be registered for pedigree except in ruling of Resolution No. 19. Lewis S. J. Griffin.
This resolution was adopted.
At the close of the meeting Dr. E. Ross Jordon of Macon extended an invitation to hold the next Annual Convention Show at Macon, Georgia.
Also an invitation was extended from Mrs. Fred N. Leach of Stoneham, Massachusetts, to hold the 1928 Convention Show at Boston, Massachusetts, the invitation extended through the Boston Poultry Association.
Dr. Larrabee, in behalf of the Georgia-Florida Rabbit & Cavy Club, thanked the American for coming south, and Mr. J. F. Almond, Secretary of the Georgia-Florida Club, echoed Dr. Larrabee's expression, stating that the Convention has meant an incalculable asset toward the continued development of the industry in the Southeast.
Motion was made to adjourn until next annual convention. Time and place to be decided on by Board of Directors.
Given at the Annual Convention Held at Tampa, Florida, February 1 to 11, 1928
By A. Weygandt, Secretary
In making my annual report to this convention, I am pleased to say that the year of 1927 has been a “Record Breaker,”—not only for the Association, but the Industry as well. There has been a great demand for both Breeding and Exhibition stock, as well as stock for commercial purposes, during the past year for both rabbits and cavies. This is due to the good work of our many individual members, and our organization as a whole, for without a central organization, no industry can prosper, as we must have a central head for the locals to work through—also the State Associations and Specialty Clubs.
After five years of good hard work, we now have our organization on a good sound working basis, and the past year have done much in the way of publicity work in behalf of the industry, by distributing free bulletins, etc., not only to individuals, but through our representatives in different sections of the country in large quantities at shows, etc. I might mention the following:
5.000 No. 10 bulletins distributed free.
8.000 No. 9 bulletins distributed free.
60.000 publicity stickers distributed free.
5.000 Domestic Rabbit Meat Cooking Recipes given free as advertising.
5.000 Pelt Problem Circulars.
10 Championship Certificates given to all associations chartered with the American for their annual show, providing request was made for same.
8 Special Ribbons for Lawn Shows to chartered associations.
Grand Champion Certificates made, and ready for distribution to all making application.
In addition to the above, we have prepared and furnished to our members at cost a large amount of the following:
Waxed wrappers for wrapping the dressed rabbits for market.
Domestic Rabbit Cooking Recipe Circulars.
Pocket Standards of all Standard Breeds of Rabbits and Cavies.
Membership Buttons, etc.
It is not the Association’s desire to make a profit on the above, but a small charge is made in order to about cover expenses to the Association, or nearly so, in order to protect against a waste of these supplies. At the same time the member gets the benefit of the price the Association secures them for in large quantities, in any quantity desired.
Guide Books and Standards Given Free to All Members: A copy of our Guide Books and Standards was given free to all members, until the supply became exhausted in May of last year. I wish to thank the many members who wrote in showing their appreciation of these books, and was sorry when the last one was mailed out.
New Guide Books and Standards to be Bushed: The New Guide Books and Standards are nearly ready for the printer, and will surpass the old books, and every member will receive one as soon as they are printed. Five thousand copies will be printed, and this should supply our needs for some time.
Our New Meat Posters: The latest addition to our publicity propaganda is our New Market Domestic Rabbit Meat Posters. These posters are 12 inches by 14 inches in size, and are to be framed by the breeder and
presented to the market handling his rabbit meat, and hung in a conspicuous place, so as to attract attention of customers on the days when rabbit meat is on sale, and days not on sale can be faced toward the wall, if one chooses to do so.
They are printed in five attractive colors, with a colored plate of rabbit meat of nearly full size, and will attract if placed in any shop. Samples of all these forms you will find at our Headquarters at the hotel during convention week.
Our Membership: Our membership has kept up wonderfully the past year through the efforts of our many good workers, and we now have over
3,000 members in good standing.
Vice-President Stahl leads this year in securing the largest amount to his credit, having 289; Mr. Blair, 149. Editor Pierce, Messrs. Griffin, Reeder, Needham, Vance, Davis of the East, also have sent in many memberships.
Registrations: Our registrations during the past year have also broken all records, having reached nearly the 10,000 mark. But to be accurate, 9,920, which puts a Stamp of Approval by the Rabbit Breeders of the country on our system of registering. Our registrars, if they follow their instructions, will register no rabbit unless free from all disqualifications, for we do not wish breeders to pay out good money to have a worthless cull registered. In other words, we want our Registration Certificates to Insure Quality of the animals they cover.
Transfer of Ownerships: During the year there have been 1,081 transfers of ownership made, and many who are not acquainted with this feature of our Registration System, should take advantage of it, and when you sell a registered animal, write for Transfer of Ownership blanks, so that records can be transferred to the new owner, and recorded on our stud book.
Charters: We have issued forty-four (44) charters to local associations the past year, and now carry more locals affiliated with us than ever before. Every local should apply for charter, as it not only signifies your cooperation, but you are furnished with ten Championship Certificates for your Annual Show, to be placed as your members desire.
Financial Aid to the Specialty Clubs: Following a suggestion of Vice-President Stahl, the Board of Directors, beginning with the month of September, authorized me to distribute to each Specialty Club affiliated with us, monthly, 10c cash for each registration application received during the month covering the breed represented by their association, in order to help the various clubs financially in boosting their favorite breed. This has also proven a great success, and is much appreciated by the breeders, as it will enable each club to give their breed more publicity, and in this and other ways reverts back to the breeders, as it should.
During the first four months, ending December 31st, we have turned over $213.30 to the various Specialty Clubs through this arrangement, and I think the Board made a wise decision in authorizing this arrangement.
Our Demonstration Plant: During the year of 1927, a small demonstration plant was completed at our headquarters, and has proven to be a great help in enlightening the beginner in the rudiments of our industry.
Many visitors have visited this plant, and all are loud in their praises of same and we feel proud of the plant also. While it is not large, we are not ashamed of it, and are only too pleased to show visitors who are seeking information, and give instructions as to housing, breeds, etc. The visitor coming to this plant can rest assured he need feel under no obligations to buy anything. Information is free, and a supply of literature is furnished free, and if hungry, a cup of coffee and sandwiches given free also, with a circular giving details of the plant.
Our Express Rate Case: I had expected a final report on this case before this, but same is still pending, and a decision expected any day.
For the benefit of our new members, I wish to state that the Association last Spring secured the services of an expert rate case attorney to take up with the Commerce Commission the question of having express rates on
live rabbits for consumption in hauls of 400 miles or less reduced to the same basis as poultry; the present rate being first class for rabbits, and second class for poultry. The case was presented to the Commission under the shortened procedure plan whereby the facts and arguments upon which the parties to the case rely are submitted in memoranda therefore precluding the necessity of oral hearings through briefs, etc.
I have presented our attorney much evidence to support our case, and Messrs. Stahl, Blair, Vance and others furnished much important information for use in this case. Whether we win or lose, I feel the money well spent, for we made our best efforts to reduce the rate, and the case was handled in an able manner by our attorney, and he has received cash for his services, as we run this Association on a cash basis.
In Mr. Mahoney’s letter of January 10th, to me, he advises the Examiner’s report recommends dismissal of the case, but this does not necessarily mean the case is lost, and has since filed his exceptions to this report which are as follows:
“Before the Interstate Commerce Commission—Docket No. 19578— American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders’ Association, Inc., vs. American Railway Express Company et al. Complainant’s exceptions to the Proposed Report of the Examiner.
“Now comes the complainant in the above-mentioned proceeding and presents the following exceptions to the report proposed by Albert A. Mattson, Examiner:
“I. The Examiner errs, sheet No. 1, in the statement that ‘The evidence introduced was directed to the unreasonableness of the first-class rating.’
“II. The Examiner errs in his conclusion contained in the last sentence in the following quotation from sheet No. 3 of his proposed report: ‘They point out that the first-class rating on live rabbits was approved in Express Classification, 1920, 59 I. C. C., 265. The record herein does not warrant a change in that rating.’
“III. The Examiner errs, sheet No. 3, in his conclusion that ‘The Commission should find that the first-class rates and rating on live rabbits are not unreasonable, or otherwise unlawful, and the complaint should be dismissed. ’
“IV. The Examiner errs in not finding that the assailed rating and rates are and will be for the future unjust and unreasonable to the extent that they exceed or may exceed second class for all distances, and are and will be unduly prejudicial to live rabbits and unduly preferential of live poultry to the extent that they exceed or may exceed second class for hauls of 400 miles or less.
“As to Exception No. 1. The tests for ascertaining unreasonableness and undue prejudice and preference are somewhat similar and while it is true that complainant seeks a rating of second class on live rabbits and would not desire any prejudice which may exist corrected by an increase in the rating on live poultry, nevertheless, the evidence indicates that the present advantage in classification and rates enjoyed by live poultry is not a fair and proper one. First, it was shown by complainant that rabbit meat is compared with chicken in the advertising literature of the United States Department of Agriculture; that the railroads in Jerpe Commission Co. v. Director General, 66 I. C. C., 131, 134, contended that dressed rabbits and dressed poultry are more closely related to each other than to dressed meat, and that the Commission prescribed the same rates on dressed rabbits as were in effect on dressed poultry. (Mahoney’s Memorandum Sheet No. 2.) It was also shown that dressed rabbit meat is advertised as a substitute for chicken, and that the competition between these articles of food creates competition between the live rabbits and live poultry. (Weygandt’s Memorandum, Sheet No. 2.) This evidence as to competition is convincing.
“The contention of defendants, discussed on Sheet No. 3 of the proposed report, that live rabbits are competitive with live goats and kids is clearly without merit. Such competition as may exist between these commodities is only that which may be said to exist between any commodity
used for the same general purpose; that is, the competition is potential, in that there is a remote possibility that one commodity may be sold and used in place of another, and not actual, in that one commodity is represented to the public and is actually sold as a substitute for and in competition with the other.
“In the absence of a difference in transportation characteristics between two intimately related and competitive commodities, the duties of the carriers under the statute is to accord them a parity in ratings and rates. The value of live rabbits is about 30 cents per pound (Proposed Report, Sheet No. 2), and that of live poultry ranges from 20 to 36 cents per pound (Mahoney’s Memorandum, Sheets Nos. 2 and 3). Both commodities are shipped in coops and rabbits are also shipped in crates—all of the packages being of like construction. (Mahoney’s Memorandum, Sheet No. 1). Rabbits are not grouped with the larger animals such as goats and sheep in the defendant’s live stock contract, BUT ARE GROUPED WITH POULTRY AND PIGEONS. (Mahoney’s Memorandum, Sheet No. 2.) Defendants, therefore, recognize that there is a difference between rabbits, goats and sheep from a transportation standpoint, and indicate by such grouping that they consider rabbits, poultry and pigeons as being like commodities. As the rabbit industry considers rabbits and live poultry to be competitive commodities, and the Department of Agriculture advertises the use of rabbit meat as a substitute for chicken, and the defendants group rabbits with live poultry in their live stock contract, and not with the goats and sheep, there is no conclusion warranted from these facts other than that rabbits and live poultry are in fact related and competitive commodities. It is, therefore, necessary to consider whether there is a difference in the transportation characteristics of these commodities which justifies the disparity in classification and rates applying for hauls of 400 miles or less.
“The evidence shows that there is no substantial difference in the manner of packing rabbits and poultry; that the same services regarding equipment, handling and stowing are required for both commodities; and that rabbits, because of their hardiness, have a lower mortality rate during transportation than poultry. In fact, the only classification element that favors live poultry as against rabbits is volume of movement, and the defendant emphasizes the fact that the daily receipts at New York City are
25,000 pounds of poultry and 3,000 pounds of rabbits. (Proposed Report, Sheet No. 2.) Value, as an element, is about the same as regards these two closely related commodities, and risk, a factor of prime importance in classification making, decidedly favors the rabbit traffic. Unless the difference in volume of movement favoring the poultry traffic justifies the advantage in classification which it enjoys on hauls up to 400 miles, the complainant has sustained the allegation of undue preference and prejudice. While volume of tonnage is an element in the determination of reasonable classification and rates, the Commission has repeatedly said that it is only one of many elements to be considered, and value, earnings, similarity of transportation conditions, and general transportation characteristics of the commodities are other items of importance. Pillsbury Flour Mills Co. v. Director General, 64 I. C. C., 84. And the close relation which exists between rabbits and poultry in such respects as character, use, bulk, weight, risk, cost of carriage, manner of packing, cost of handling, and competition, is not, we submit, outweighed by the sole element of volume of tonnage.
“The Examiner apparently attaches great weight to the statement of defendants’ witnesses that it is the general practice to accord ratings of first class or higher to ‘live’ express traffic, due to the fact that it is hazardous and requires care in handling, but it has been shown that the rating of second class on live poultry and pigeons instances a departure from this alleged practice. The mere fact that this traffic is ‘live’ is not of itself sufficient reason to single it out for high ratings, and it is of no little significance that the defendants’ witness does not attempt to make a comparison between live rabbits and fresh fish, which is rated second class although fish is generally considered to be one of the most hazardous commodities transported, and certain kinds of fresh fruits and vegetables,
which require special care and handling but which also are rated second class. In this proceeding no attack is made on the entire classification; rather, the complaint brings in issue the ratings on two commodities which are keenly competitive and closely related from a transportation standpoint. With but two general classes to which to assign thousands of commodities, it is manifest that in any one of the classes there will be found commodities of a wide range in value and weight density and differing widely in other transportation characteristics. Due to this condition, it becomes necessary, in a case concerning the reasonableness of a rating, to compare such rating with those applicable on like and competing commodities. The rule consistently adhered to by the Commission is that articles which are analogous in character should be placed in the same class. Western Classification Case, 25 I. C. C., 442, 474. The classification situation as between live rabbits and live poultry instances a distinct departure from this fundamental rule which the defendants have not attempted to justify.
“As to Exception No. II. While it is true that the Commission approved the first-class rating on live rabbits, this sanction of the present rating was in a general investigation involving numerous commodities. The defendants at that time were seeking the Commission's approval of several changes, one of which, a reduction in the rating of live rabbits, was quite naturally supported by the shippers and receivers of this article. There was not in the general investigation, as is here presented, a question concerning the relative rating on rabbits and a competing commodity, live poultry, and this fact differentiates the preceding case from the instant one. This case should, therefore, be decided on its merits without regard to the findings in Express Classification, 1920, supra.
“As to Exceptions Nos. III and IV. The evidence demonstrated that there is no justification for higher classification on live rabbits than on live poultry, and that a reasonable and lawful rating and rates on rabbits would not exceed second class. An order directing the establishment of this rating for the future should be entered.”
‘‘ Respectfully submitted,
“George F. Mahoney, for Complainant.
“24 Burgoyne St., Boston, Mass., November 23, 1927.”
There is no doubt we have a good case, and hope we get a decision in our favor.
Money Talks: The past year our correspondence has doubled, and hundreds of letters from beginners and others from all sections of the country wanting information on all subjects have been received and answered.
Hundreds of bulletins and other literature mailed free; yet with all the expense, we have more cash in the treasury today than ever before. Thanks to our many good workers for these conditions—and this means YOU. At the close of December 31st, we had on hand in cash $2,252.05, and while I have not closed the books for January, I am safe in saying we have over $2,500.00 cash now on hand—quite a contrast to conditions five years ago, and previous to that time, when the Association was always in debt and could never pay expenses, and at the same time was doing nothing as compared with what the American is doing today, and all expenses paid. For this reason the Rabbit Breeders, through experience gained by these conditions, decided to Run their Own Association and are Running It.
Read the Journals
The Journals devoted to our industry deserve your support and all should take one or more of them if possible to do so.
You not only get much useful information in regard to Breeding and Feeding Rabbits and Cavies but the News of all Specialty Clubs and the News of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association every month and which should interest every member.
Several have written asking if we publish a monthly Bulletin for our members but as the Journals publish our news giving the workings of the
Association, we feel this would be a considerable expense and unnecessary as long as the Journals are kind enough to publish the news for us.
I would suggest you read the Journals and keep in touch with the workings of the Association for it is to your interest to do so.
Cash Received
Balance on hand January 1, 1927......................$ 777.05
Cash received; Registration Books..................... 4,872.50
Transfers .............................................. 255.50
Members .............................................. 3,145.50
Charters ............................................... 123.00
Registrar’s License .................................... 236.00
Judge’s License ......................................... 94.00
Rabbitry Registrations .................................. 21.00
Miscellaneous .......................................... 103.80
Guide Book Ads ......................................... 746.50
Cash Disbursed
Stationery and Stamps ...............................$ 2,668.43
Membership Commissions ................................ 158.25
Secretary’s Commission............................... 3,778.85
Advertising ........................................... 100.29
Refunds ................................................ 23.50
Attorney’s Fees ....................................... 250.00
Miscellaneous.......................................... 194.93
Pocket Standards ...................................... 335.25
No. Nine Bulletins .................................... 300.00
Specialty Club Registration Fees ..................... ‘313.30
Balance on hand Jan. 1, 1928 ........................ 2,252.05
of the
1. To promote, encourage and develop the rabbit, cavy and other fur bearing animals industry, and for the purpose of establishing a well organized central body charged with the duties of carrying out this object.
2. To provide a center of information and advice on all matters pertaining to the above industry and to create markets for rabbit meat and skins as well as thoroughbred stock.
3. To promote by all possible means original investigation in the industry, and with that object in view to keep in touch with institutions of learning and men of science interested in the industry.
4. To cooperate in securing national legislation and rules governing and regulating the industry and to aid by all means in the enforcement of these rules and regulations.
5. To preserve the pedigrees and descriptions of these animals and to perfect and carry on a registration system for the same.
1. To provide all the literature available on the subject and the experience of practical men in the industry.
2. It furnishes at regular intervals a stud book containing information which is of inestimable value to those in the industry.
3. It organizes and carries out exhibitions from time to time.
4. It plans by all means possible to encourage its members and others to develope the industry and get others interested.
1. The officers of the Association shall be: President, Vice-President, Secretary, Treasurer, and a Board of Directors consisting of five members, all of whom shall be elected at the annual election of this Association, and by and from its membership. In the election of the Board of Directors, three to be elected for two years and two for one year. Each year thereafter the same number shall be elected as those whose terms shall expire.
2. The officers of the Association shall serve one year or until their successors are elected and qualified except the Board of Directors as hereinafter provided. They shall enter upon the discharge of their duties January 1, each year.
3. Vacancies in offices during term shall be filled by the Board of Directors.
4. That the expenses of the president, vice-president, secretary, and chairman of board of directors be paid to the annual convention, such allowances, however, not to exceed the sum of $50.00 for each officer, and such allowances not to be granted except with the approval of the board of directors.
President. The president shall preside at all the meetings of the Association, and act as Chairman of the Executive Board, appoint all committees, call special meetings of the Association, or of the Executive Board in accordance with the By-Laws, and perform such other duties as usually
pertain to his office. He shall have such other powers as may be conferred upon him by the Executive Board at any meeting of such Board.
Vice-President. The duties of the Vice-President shall be the same as those of the President in case of the absence or disability of the President.
Secretary. The Secretary shall devote sufficient time and attention to the duties of his office and to such other duties as the President and Executive Board may direct.
2. He shall collect and keep account of all moneys due to the Association, and pay all bills and make all reports of the same.
He shall also make report to Treasurer at end of each month and turn all moneys due the Association from the month’s receipts according to this report over to the Treasurer promptly.
3. He shall be the custodian of and keep well insured all the property of the Association. He shall have a bond in favor of the Association for a sum to be set by the Executive Board, said sum to be not less than $3,000.00
4. He shall keep a proper record of all registrations, make all certificates, compile a suitable stud book, make and order all forms needed in the work of the same and secure all necessary printed matter for the conducting of his office, with the approval of the Executive Board.
5. He shall have such other and further duties as shall be imposed upon him by the Executive Board or the President.
Treasurer. It will be the duty of the Treasurer to accept and keep correct record of all moneys turned over by Secretary at the end of each month and not to pay out any of this money only on a written order signed by the President of the Board and the Secretary. Treasurer’s bond to be $2,000.00.
Board of Directors. It shall be the duty of the Board of Directors to have charge of the various business transactions of the Association; to authorize the expenditure of moneys by and for the Association; to pass on any and all special legislative matters found desirable and not in conflict with or provided by this instrument; it shall have the power to make contracts in the name of the Association when so needed in the promotion of the work by any or all departments and to have a supervision over all special departments as may herein be provided for. And see that the Secretary and Treasurer books are audited at the annual meeting, prior to the annual business meeting, also upon retiring from office.
That the Secretary be allowed to retain 50% of all money coming into his office, that he shall from this amount defray all expenses connected with this office with the exception of stamps and stationery which shall be furnished by the Association. Further that the Board of Directors shall be empowered to grant any additional compensation as they may see fit. Resolution passed at convention held at Colorado Springs, Dec. 1-4, 1925, increasing membership to $2.00 also stipulates that Secretary’s commission on those $2.00 membership shall be 25%.
The Secretary must make quarterly financial reports to the Board of Directors and an annual report at each Annual Convention. The Treasurer shall also make an annual report at the Annual Convention.
Chapter 1 MEETINGS
Section 1. The annual meeting of the Association shall be held in the city to be designated by the Board of Directors. Notice for the time and place for holding any such meeting must be sent by the Secretary to each member at least 30 days prior thereto. The President must call
a Special Meeting of the Association when so requested to in writing, bv at least twenty-five members in good standing. At such special meetings, there shall be considered only the special business for which the meeting was called and of which notice was included in the call sent the members.
Sec. 2. At all meetings twenty-five members shall constitute a quorum. No person not a member shall act as proxy for any member.
Sec. 3. If no quorum shall be present the presiding officer shall adjourn the meeting to a day and hour fixed by him.
Sec. 4. At all meetings of the Association the President shall preside and the Secretary of the Association shall act as Secretary. In the absence of the President the Vice-President shall preside. In the event of the absence of all officers, the majority of the members present shall, by majority vote, elect a presiding officer. In the event of the absence of the Secretary, the presiding officer shall appoint a Secretary for the meeting.
Sec. 5. At all meetings of the Association the presiding officer shall appoint three members present in person to act as inspectors and tellers of the meeting, whose duties shall be to receive, inspect, canvass and report all votes taken or cast at such meeting.
Sec. 6. At all meetings of the Association the order of business, except when otherwise determined by the majority vote of those present shall be:
1st. Reading and correction of minutes of last meeting.
2nd. Reports of Committees.
3rd. Reports of Officers.
4th. Appointing of Committees.
5th. Unfinished Business.
6th. General Business.
7tb. That voting by proxy on questions coming up at the convention by one member for others not in attendance be not allowed for in this manner one man might control a convention. However, all local associations holding a charter with the A. R. & C. B association, Inc., to be allowed to send one delegate to represent them at the convention. This delegate must present letter signed by the president and secretary of his local, showing he is their authorized representative, when he will be allowed two votes on all questions coming up at the convention; one for himself and one for the local club he represents. Said delegate, however, must be a member of the A. R. & C. B. association.
8th. Resolutions. That all resolutions proposed be read at one meeting of the convention and there discussed, but shall not be acted upon until the next meeting.
Chapter 2
Section 1. State Associations. Officers of the Association shall consist of Governor, 1st and 2nd Lieutenant Governor, Secretary-Treasurer and Board of Directors, who shall adopt this constitution.
Sec. 2. Meetings of the State Governors shall be held at such times and at such places as shall be determined by them.
Section 1. The Governors of the State Association shall be elected by the State Association. Where no State Organization shall exist the President shall appoint such Governor with the approval of the Executive Committee whose first duties are to effect a State Organization.
Sec. 2. The Secretary shall mail out Nomination Ballots at least Ninety Days before the Annual Election for the purpose of Nominating Officers, and at least Thirty Days before the time of Holding the Annual Convention, he shall mail out to every member in good standing a voting blank. The Voting Blank shall be mailed to the Election Commissioner
named by Chairman of the Board who will count nominations and Advise Secretary results of Nomination, then Secretary shall then take the two receiving the Highest votes for nomination on Election Ballot but if One is High in more than one Office Secretary shall take up with him and let him choose the office he wishes to be placed on. Taking the next highest Nominee for the other place on Election Ballot.
A self Addressed envelope shall accompany each election Ballot with Election Commissioners name and Address thereon and party voting shall seal same and mail direct to Election Commissioner. Election Commissioner shall leave same sealed and bring or send to the Convention where the President shall Appoint a Committee of three to open and count same, and Chairman of this Committee announce results of Election at Convention.
Sec. 3. Any member receiving Ten or more Nominations for an Office shall have his or her name placed on the election Ballot for the office Nominated.
In case no two members receive ten or more nomination votes the two receiving the highest votes shall be placed on the Ticket.
Section 1. The President with the approval of the Board of Directors shall appoint from time to time such standing committees as may be necessary and proper for the conduct of the affairs of the Association. Only members in good standing shall be appointed to such committees.
Sec. 2. The amount of indebtedness which may be incurred by any committee shall in no case exceed the amount appropriated for its use by the Board of Directors.
Sec. 3. The work of all committees shall be subject to the approval of the Board of Directors, except as otherwise herein provided.
Section 1. The Board of Directors may elect as honorary members any person distinguished for his political, scientifical, industrial or administrative capacity. Honorary members shall be exempt from all dues, fees or subscriptions and shall have no right to vote at any meeting of the Association.
Sec. 2. Any person may become a life member by the payment of fifty dollars ($50.00), which shall be received in lieu of all annual dues or assessments.
Sec. 3. Any person (with the approval of the State Organization where one exists), Club or Association, may become members of this Association upon payment of dues as follows: Individuals shall pay a fee of $2.00 per annum, said fee to accompany the application. Local Associations shall receive a charter upon payment of a fee of $3.00 per annum, the same to accompany the application. Specialty Clubs furnished charter free on application.
Sec. 4. All members shall be entitled to all the information available in the industry and in possession of the Association and shall have a right to vote at meetings of the Association.
Section 1. The interpretation by the Board of Directors of the Constitution, By-Laws, Rules, Regulations, Notices, Resolutions and of Club Documents and orders shall be binding upon all members and those enjoying any of the privileges of the Association.
See. 2. The Board of Directors may suspend or expel any member of
the Association for conduct which in its judgment warrants such punishment.
Sec. 3. An appeal may be taken from the ruling of the Board of Directors to the membership at the next annual election.
Chapter 7 NOTICES
Section 1. All notices required to be sent to any member shall be sent by mail prepaid to his residence or place of business as it appears on the Association books and such mailing shall be presumptive evidence of the service thereof. Any change in the address must be sent promptly to the Secretary.
Chapter 8 JUDGES
Section 1. The application for all Judge’s License shall be made to the Secretary of the Association on blanks supplied by him for that purpose. The said application shall bear the endorsement of the President and Secretary of the Local and State Association under whose jurisdiction said applicant lives, also that he assist one of our licensed judges at least 3 shows and get said judge’s signature to application.
Sec. 2. The fee for Judge’s License shall be two dollars ($2.00) for one year. The fee shall accompany the application and shall be returned to applicant in case said applicant shall be rejected. In case any Judge fails to renew his license at the expiration of the year he shall be suspended until such a time as he renews the same. This renewal shall be made at the option of the Board of Directors.
Sec. 3. All foreign standard breeds be recognized and judged by the standard of their respective country, provided that the A. R. & C. B. Association has no standard to cover.
Junior Judges can be appointed by the American Rabbit and Cacy Breeders Association for the purpose of judging local and table shows, said Judges to be recommended by any local Association affiliated with the A. R. & C. B. association, fee to be one dollar a year. Make application by letter signed by officers of Local Association enclosing $1.00 fee. Junior Judges License Certificate will be issued, after assisting a Licensed Judge at three shows. He can then apply for Regular Judge’s License.
Section 1. The application for all Registrar’s Licenses shall be made to the Secretary of the Association on blanks furnished by him for that purpose. The said application shall bear the endorsement of the President and Secretary of the Local and State Associations under whose jurisdiction said applicant lives, also the signature of one licensed judge.
Sec. 2. The fee for Registrar’s License shall be two dollars ($2.00) for one year and the said fee shall accompany the said application. In case said application is rejected the said fee shall be returned. If any Registrar fails to renew his license at the expiration of the year he shall be suspended until such a time as he renews the same. This renewal shall be made at the option of the Board of Directors.
Sec. 3. In case the said applicant for said Judge’s and Registrar’s License lives in a state where there is no Association and in a community where there is no Local, he shall secure the endorsement of five well known breeders and a Judge of this Association in addition to the other signatures.
Section 1. The By-Laws may be amended only by a two-thirds vote of the members of the Association present at a regular or special meeting of the Association, notice of the purport of the proposed amendment having been stated in the call for the meeting.
Chapter 11
Section 1. That the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc., establish a receiving station for raw rabbit furs in the city of New York, where all rabbit breeders who so desire may ship their pelts, in any quantity, and have them sorted, graded and sold to the raw fur buyers at the best prevailing prices.
That the president appoint some one man from among the membership, to act as manager of such receiving station with authority to work out all details of operation. The manager thus appointed shall receive a commission of 5 per cent of the gross receipts for his services. He shall be bonded (at the expense of the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc.) for such amount as the board of directors deem necessary and he shall be held responsible by the board, and the Board of Directors are empowered to increase or decrease the commission on sales of skins handled by said manager as they deem advisable.
Section 1. All rabbits shall be registered by Licensed Registrars of the Association and same must be a Standard Breed of this association.
Sec. 2. Each registration shall be evidenced by a certificate of registration which shall be made in duplicate, original to be mailed owner of animal and duplicate to be placed in file in the Association Stud Book.
Sec. 3. On and after Jan. 1, 1929, no Rabbit will be entitled to Registration in this association where Sire is not Registered and after Jan. 1, 1930, no Rabbit shall be registered unless both Sire and Dam are Registered.
Sec. 4. After Jan. 1, 1929, the present rule of any one Judge having authority to Register a Rabbit without Pedigree be cancelled and no rabbits be registered without Pedigree unless entered at an Official Convention Show of the A. R. & C. B. association and passed on favorably by a committee of three Licensed Judges.
Sec. 5. Registrars before registering a Rabbit must examine animal carefully to see that it is Free from all Disqualifications and up to Registration weights for no Rabbit that is Disqualified in any section is eligible to Registration.
Sec. 6. Register Applications are to be made in triplicate, the original to be sent to Secretary of the A. R. & C. B. association and one copy retained by Registrar for his Record and the other copy given to owner of animal for his receipt.
Sec. 7. That the Secretary shall be empowered to register cavies. Application for registry shall be made on uniform blanks furnished by the Secretary. Said registration system shall be copied after that used by pure bred hog associations doing such a business.
Section 1. That fee for registration shall be $1.00 for each rabbit registered. One-half of this fee shall go to the Association and the other half to the Registrar making the registration.
Sec. 2. The fee for registering all cavies shall be 50 cents; one-half of this fee shall go to the Association and the other half to the Registrar making the registration.
Application blanks shall be bound in sets of ten in triplicate and registrars shall be requested to purchase these blanks at 50 cents each, paying in advance for the same for rabbits and 25 cents for cavies.
Sec. 3. The fee for registering the names of rabbitries to be $1.00. There is a certificate issued for this registration and registry number is furnished applicant and also page on which registry appears in association record book given on said certificate. One private “trade mark" to be included in such registration but no more. Only members of the association to be allowed these registrations and same automatically expires at expiration of membership.
Sec. 4. Combination Registrations. That a combination registration plan be created, whereby each specialty club affiliated with the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc., be able to issue for a fee of fifty cents each, certificates to those who desire them, such certificates to be issued only on rabbits already registered by the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc. Be it further resolved, that the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc., through the secretary’s office issue with each registration certificate an application blank to be filled out by the owner of the rabbit. This application may be sent to the secretary of the specialty club sponsoring that particular breed of rabbit; who will issue the regular certificate from the records appearing on the certificate issued by the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc. Be it further resolved, that on the back of the application blank it be suggested that
the rabbit for which original certificate is issued, be recorded with the specialty club sponsoring same and instructions given how to do so.
Many of our new members are a little confused over the two above terms and some are of the opinion that both have the same meaning, but they do not.
A Pedigree is just simply a record of the animal’s breeding and can be made out by any breeder or anyone wishing to do so on a blank form printed for this purpose or can be written in full on a plain sheet of paper. See Cut. No. 1. A pedigree differs from a Registration Certificate because it signifies nothing as to the quality of the animal. Just a plain statement of the animal’s breeding and can cover a disqualified animal.
A Registration Certificate not only contains a pedigree of the animal but also is a symbol of “quality” because it assures the owner the animal covered by it is free from all disqualifications as our Registrars are instructed to register no animal that is disqualified in any section.
For this reason Registrars must have their application signed by one or more of our licensed Judges and others who know them to be qualified and familiar with all of the good points as well as the disqualifications of breeds he is supposed to register before license is granted.
Transfer Certificates: All who have purchased Registered Stock from other breeders should have stock transferred to their name in our Stud Books and Transfer Certificate issued. We furnish blank forms for this purpose free and the breeder making the sale should send in for applications for transfer and they will be furnished free. He should fill one out to cover each registered animal sold and send along with the Registration Certificate to the buyer. The buyer if ho desires to have stock transferred to his name sends (application only) to office of the A. R. & C. B. A. and stock will be transferred.
VARIETY.............. .. SEX........................ COLOR....................
WEIGHT.............. BORN . . EAR No.............. REGISTRY No........
REMARKS: .............................-...........................................
Branch Associations, Association members of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders’ Association, Inc., holding exhibitions, governed by, and subject to the Associations Rules and Regulations, must print in the Premium Lists on their entry sheets in bold face type:
“The (full name of Association) being a member of the American
Rabbit and Cavy Breeders’ Association, their......................annual Show
(dates here), will be governed by and run under the latest revised OFFICIAL SHOW RULES OF THE AMERICAN RABBIT AND CAVY BREEDERS ASSOCIATION (INC.). All prizes will be awarded strictly in accordance with the American Standard of Perfection.”
Section 1. Under normal conditions entries shall close the day advertised (entries bearing postmark of the date being eligible) and entry fees must be paid on or before that time, except when telegraphed and in such eases remittance must follow by first mail.
Sec. 2. Any person under disqualification by the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., is ineligible to enter, to compete or to act as judge or in any capacity.
Sec. 3. All entries must be the bona fide property of the exhibitor. Otherwise he forfeits all entry fees, all prize money and all other premiums, as well as the right to have his stock remain in the show room. In cases of disqualification under this rule other exhibits shall, if qualified, be moved up in the list of winners, subject to the disqualified exhibitor’s right of appeal.
Sec. 4. In cases where it shall come to the knowledge of the management that disqualified parties have, unknown to them, succeeded in making an entry or entries, the right is reserved to cancel such entries, and such parties forfeit their entry fee, prize money and other premiums.
The Show Management reserves the right to refuse entries from exhibitors whose conduct in their opinion makes it desirable for the welfare of the show that their stock be debarred from competition.
Sec. 5. In cases where entries are made at shows where catalogues are issued and exhibits are not sent, entry fees will not be returned. Associations that do not issue catalogues may use their discretion in this matter.
Sec. 6. Exhibitors attempting to interfere with or influence the judge or judges shall have their stock disqualified and be barred from the show.
Sec. 7. Judges shall be required to sign the judge’s book or card provided by the Show Association. An official record of these awards shall be preserved by the show secretary for reference.
Sec. 8. No specimen shall be removed from the show until after its close except upon the written consent of the Show Secretary, or Superintendent.
Sec. 9. All entries are entered and shown at the risk of owners and while associations are expected to exercise all reasonable care in the handl-ling and protection of the exhibits, such associations will in no case be liable except as provided in Rule 10.
Sec. 10. Stock must be returned promptly at the close of the show, and any lost in the re-shipping through proven carelessness or negligence on the part of the show association, are to be paid for by such association at a value not to exceed $5.00 per specimen.
Sec. 11. Any exhibitors disqualified for fraudulent practices shall have the right of appeal to the Board of Directors of this Association, within one year from the date of his disqualification.
Sec. 12. Notice of a disqualification with a detailed statement shall be mailed by the show association, within ten days, to the Secretary of the
American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., and by registered mail to the disqualified party.
Sec. 13. In case of palpable error, or alleged fraudulent practices on the part of any judge, any exhibitor shall have the right within twelve hours after the awards are posted, to make a written protest accompanied by a $5.00 deposit. The protest shall be passed upon by a committee of three, which shall consist of a representative of the Show Association, a judge, and a disinterested exhibitor, and if sustained the money shall be refunded.
Sec. 14. Notice of protests that are sustained shall be mailed within ten days to the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., to be brought by him before the Board of Directors, before whom an appeal may be taken by the judge within one year.
Sec. 15. No judge shall exhibit in any class which he is judging and he shall refuse to consider any specimen that he may recognize as having been owned by him three months previous to the show, and no exhibitor or anyone interested in any exhibit that may be in the class shall act as assistant to the judge.
Sec. 16. Associations shall have the right to re-assign judges for cause or add to the list judges as occasion may require, but all associations holding shows under Rules of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., must secure licensed Judges of the association to judge show if possible to secure same.
Sec. 17. Show managements are compelled to refuse entry to the show room, and to remove from the same all diseased or unsightly specimens. Entry fees on such specimens shall be forfeited.
Sec. 18. All specimens must be exhibited in their natural condition. Any violations of this rule shall exclude such premiums from competition and cause the withholding of all premiums awarded.
Sec. 19. Any matter not provided for in the foregoing rules and regulations will be referred to the Executive Committee of the local show for decision.
Sec. 20. Every exhibitor hereby agrees to submit to the jurisdiction of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., and to abide by the rules, whether he is a member of the Association or not.
Sec. 21. Any Branch Association may make additional rules or regulations provided they do not conflict with these rules.
Sec. 22. All Branch Associations that are members of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., shall be permitted to designate their exhibition as official shows, and to advertise same as such, but must also be governed by Section 16.
Sec. 23. These Show Rules are official and are copyrighted and can be used only by Associations that are associate members of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc.
Sec. 24. Branch Associations must offer premiums in all varieties of Standard bred stock.
Sec. 25. Special awards on sweepstakes shall be made on points: First prize to count as 6; second, 4; third, 3; fourth, 2, and fifth, 1. The total number of points won by an exhibitor to be multiplied by the number of specimens exhibited in his class; this grand total to be the number of points counted in the competition. Does and litters not to be counted in figuring sweepstakes for cups and specials outside of doe and litter classes.
Sec. 26. Champion Certificates. To avoid substitution and duplication, and eventual dishonesty on the part of some of the more unscrupulous persons who may perchance win this coveted certificate on stock owned and shown by them; to more fully protect the upright and the progressive breeder from the acts of such persons; and to make of this certificate a reward of value, won by merit alone and not by chance, therefore, do suggest, recommend and urge that the officers of the parent associations
make a rule and enforce same, requiring every rabbit winning one of said certificates to be registered before the certificate is delivered to the owner, and further that under no circumstance whatsoever may this rule be disregarded.
Sec. 27. Animals covered by proposed Standards be permitted to be classed as standard breeds in show rooms but that animals not be allowed to be registered until admitted to a standard. However, those animals covered by a proposed or working standard may be allowed to count for points in a show.
Sec. 28. It shall be strongly recommended for all shows, meetings and Conventions, operating or showing under sanction of the A. R. & C. B. association to submit to the Directors of this Association at its main office, a full and complete list of all prizes both regular and special to be offered by them at such proposed show, such premium lists to be so submitted at least 60 days prior to the proposed opening date of such show. Be it resolved, that this rule is not intended to apply to or cover any special ribbons, cups or specials that may be offered by any various Federations or Breeders Associations operating under and recognized officially by this organization.
Sec. 29. Secretary of the A. R. & C. B. association will secure an understanding and offer a protest with the American Poultry Association, relative to Licensed Judges of the A. P. A. judging Rabbit Exhibits advertised as A. R. & C. B. association standards without a proper license from the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc.
Ear Tag No. Weight Hutch Entry No.
Rabbits and Cavies
Tampa Convention Show, Tampa, Florida • February 1 5, 1928
Type Condition Coat Color Bone Ears
Owner and Address
VF—Very Fine VG—Very Good G—Good (Original Sheets
M—Medium P—Poor
D—Disqualified ................................Clerk
should be 8 1/2 x14 inches and space between columns 1/2 inch)
Many requests are received wanting to know the requirements or qualifications of one to be granted a Registrar's license and whether or not registrars are wanted.
Registrars are wanted at all times but to qualify for this work one should be familiar with the Standard requirements of all breeds and all disqualifications for no animal that is disqualified can be given a Registration certificate. The following rules should be followed closely by Registrars as we wish to keep the Registration system on a sound basis so that when an animal is given a certificate it presents the true value of the individual it eovers.
1. A uniform rate of One Dollar ($1.00) per head will be charged on all rabbits, and fifty cents ($0.50) per head on all cavies registered.
2. Tattoo number as shown on Registration blank in right ear showing the letter “A" or “B" after all numbers regardless of class, as this is only used to denote the series of registrations.
3. There are no classes provided for in Registrations of rabbits or cavies.
4. No rabbit not up to required weight should be given a certificate, but can be later on when up to required weight, provided they are otherwise qualified for registration. See Registration Weights.
5. All cavies to be registered at a charge of Fifty cents ($0.50) each.
6. The registration application books containing Ten (10) triplicate
applications are sold to Registrar at Five Dollars ($5.00) each, for rabbits, and Two Dollars and Fifty Cents ($2.50) each for Cavies.
7. The Registrars should keep one copy and give owner one copy so in case original application is lost in mailing, he can furnish record for duplicate.
8. On and after Jan. 1, 1929, no Rabbit will be entitled to Registration in this association unless Sire is Registered and after Jan. 1, 1930, no Rabbit shall be registered unless both Sire and Dam are Registered.
9. After Jan. 1, 1929, the present rule of any one Judge having authority to Register Rabbits without Pedigree be cancelled and no Rabbit to be registered without pedigree unless entered at an official convention show of the A. R. & C. B. association and passed on favorably by a committee of three Licensed Judges.
10. Never register an animal if disqualified in any section regardless of quality in others.
11. Write out your applications plainly as a certificate is worthless unless correct and if names are not written distinctly, the party writing up the certificate cannot always “guess" corectly.
12. Mail applications in as soon as made out and do not hold in your possession as this prevents me from keeping my records up to date.
13. Transfer of Ownership. Should an animal be sold that has been registered the seller should mail Registration Certificate to buyer and request application for Transfer of Ownership blank to the National office and fill out and mail in with fee of 25 cents. Certificate of Transfer will then be issued and mailed to purchaser.
14. Rabbitry. Registrations. Application should be mailed to National Association giving name, owner, varieties, breed, etc., enclosing the regular fee of One Dollar ($1.00) and certificates for this purpose will be issued. One private trade mark to be included in such Registration but no more. Only members of the association allowed to register the names of their Rabbitry and same automatically expires at expiration of membership.
15. Registrars are requested to examine each animal carefully before making out application for registration papers and see that no disqualified
animal is given a certificate; also that no animal under weight should be given a registration. In registering an animal first go over specimen carefully and look for disqualifications, then if free from any, animal can be registered, USING GOOD JUDGMENT at all times.
10 lbs. American Heavyweight Silver Bucks ...Under 8 lbs. not eligible
11 lbs. ...Under 9 lbs. not eligible
9 8 lbs.
10 lbs. 9 lbs.
10 lbs.
6 lbs. and over..Angoras, Woolers 5 lbs. or over
7 to 8 ., under 5 1/2 lbs. not eligible
7 to 8 under 6 lbs. not eligible
9 lbs. and over..Belgian Heavyweight Bucks 8 lbs. not eligible
10 lbs. and over..Belgian Heavyweight Does 9 lbs. not eligible
7 to 9 6 lbs. not eligible
12 lbs. 10 lbs. not eligible
14 lbs. 11 lbs. not eligible
6 to 7 7 lbs.
5½ to 6½lbs...Standard Chinchilla Bucks..5½ lbs. and not over 6½ Ibs.
Junior Does not under 5 lbs. Junior Bucks not under 4 ½ lbs.
11 lbs. 9 Ibs. not eligible
13 lbs. Checkered Giant Does 10 lbs. not eligible
4 lbs. 6
9 lbs. 7½ to 9
10 lbs. 8 to 11 lbs.
10 lbs.
11 lbs.
6 lbs. 8 lbs. not eligible
10 lbs. (Note) ....English Lops Bucks ...Under 9 lbs. not eligible
11 Ibs. (Note) ....English Lops Does 10 lbs. not eligible
13 lbs. and over..Flemish Steel Bucks 11 lbs. not eligible
15 lbs. and over..Flemish Steel Does 11 Ibs. not eligible
13 lbs. and over..Flemish Gray Bucks 11 lbs. not eligible
15 lbs. and over..Flemish Gray Does ...Under 11 lbs. not eligible
13 lbs. and over..Flemish White, Black and Blue Bucks... ...Under 11 lbs. not eligible
15 Ibs. and over...Flemish White, Black and Blue Does ...Under 11 lbs. not eligible
14 Ibs. and over..Flemish Sandy Bucks 11 lbs. not eligible
16 lbs. and over..Flemish Sandy Does ...Under 11 lbs. not eligible
4 lbs. 5 lbs. not eligible
6 lbs. Havanas Under 4 lbs. and over 7 lbs. not eligible
4 lbs. or over 6 lbs. not eligible
5 to 6 or over 7 lbs. not eligible
9 lbs. 8 lbs. not eligible
10 lbs. 9 lbs. not eligible
A Junior New Zealand to be eligible to Register must not weigh less than 6 lbs.
3 to 4 Ibs ..Polish 4 Ibs. not eligible
6 lbs. Silver Grays, Fawns, Browns, Blues
4 lbs. Under 4 or over 6 ½ lbs. not eligible
Tans, Blacks and Blues Under 3 or over 5 lbs. not eligible
English Lops, Earage, 18 in. to 26 in.... 18 in. not eligible
7 Ibs and over....Beverens 7 lbs. not eligible
The Registration System as adopted by the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., is one of the oldest in existence today devoted to the Registration of Rabbits.
Records of all registrations since the system was inaugurated are well preserved and carefully filed so that they can be referred to within a few minutes notice.
This means much to the careful breeders who may want information regarding a certain animal registered through this association.
All that is required is to furnish the tatoo number in animal’s ear and papers covering can be easily located.
Kennel Clubs and others have started registering rabbits from time to time and breeders writing in to this Association for records of these registrations are disappointed as we have no record of them and know nothing as to where they originated.
We, therefore, request that all breeders having stock to register will see that they are registered in The American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, then later on should the animal be sold and papers become lost, the owner knows a copy of certificate showing breeding is located safely in the Association’s files and by writing to the Secretary a copy can be furnished at once. For this reason we request our members and others to register their stock with the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., so as to have the records of all registered animals kept in one Office permanently, and not scattered all over the country with Kennel Clubs and other Associations.
Another object in having your animals registered with the American Rabbit and Cavy Association, Inc. As soon as possible we hope to have our Registration System on such a sound basis and established so thoroughly among the breeders throughout the country that no animal can be registered unless its parents are registered with the National Association, and this will be a great step toward a perfect registration system, and no doubt this would be the ruling now, we wish to give all a chance to have their breeding stock registered before putting this into effect.
Of course, this system could not be put into effect unless all the animals were registered in the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., as the papers of the parent of every animal registered would have to be located in our files, and examined before certificate was issued. So please bear this in mind and have your rabbits registered with the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc.
Many new members write in asking what steps should be taken to have animals registered, cost, etc.
An animal to be registered must be examined by one of our Licensed Registrars (see list of Registrars) and passed as to quality for no disqualified animal can be registered.
The application for registration contains a number. This number is then tattoed in the animal’s right ear and remains there permanently.
The application is then filled out and mailed to the Secretary of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., who issues a certificate of registration in duplicate containing the same number tattoed in the animal’s ear.
The original certificate is then mailed to the owner and the duplicate is filed in the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., Stud Book, and kept for future reference.
Should the holder of this certificate sell the animal he should write in to the Secretary of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders’ Associa-
tion, Inc., for an application for transfer of ownership. After receiving this application, fill out and mail to the Secretary with the usual fee of 25 cents, and certificate of transfer will be mailed to the party to whom animal was sold and records made accordingly, showing the transaction made in the Association Stud Book.
It is well worth One Dollar, the price of registration to have your stock examined by licensed registrar to see that same is free from disqualifications, and to learn it is eligible to be registered. And besides you have a permanent mark of identification in the animal's ear recorded in the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., office which in case of theft, etc., is very valuable.
After Jan. 1, 1929, all animals to be Registered must be from Registered Sire and after Jan. 1, 1930, both Sire and Dam must be Registered in order for stock to be eligible to Registration.
Ashton, V. N., 798 Oak St., Lima, Ohio.
Adams, Chas. J., 525 E. Munson St., Dennison, Texas.
Almond, J. F., P. O. Box 3226, Tampa, Fla.
Arnold, E. B., College Park, Ga.
Aukland, R. F., Box 1353, Yakima, Wash.
Ainscough, Jas., 919 E. 24th St., Patterson, N. J.
Barrow, Chas. R., 417 N. Colorado, Kansas City, Mo.
Blore, John H., Delta, Colo.
Barrett, R. J., 1st and Nebraska St., Sioux City, Iowa.
Brown, B. F., Route 1, Box 8, Tampa, Fla.
Bonwell, A. N„ Filer, Idaho.
Bakko, Clarence K., Kenyon, Minn.
Bradshaw, J. J., Haxtun, Colo.
Burrow, Wm., 2940 39th St., Sacramento, Calif.
Brockman, H. A., Lenox, S. Dak.
Brattain, W. L., 327 S. Jefferson St., Dayton, Ohio.
Blood, Homer L., Dover, Idaho.
Barlow, Percy, Marshfield, P. E. I., Canada.
Brodhurst, E. M., Brentwood Bay, Victoria, B. C., Canada.
Baker, F. W., 129 Melrose St., Anaheim, Calif.
Beck, Gus, Talent, Oregon.
Batcheller, H. C., 73 S. Main St., Gloversville, N. Y.
Burrow, L. B., P. O. Box 274, Little Rock, Ark.
Ballard, Pete, Woodinville, Wash.
Boots, J. M., Hampton, Iowa.
Bow, S. H., P, O. Box 449, Louisville, Ky.
Brown, C. H., 1362 Getz St., So. Akron, Ohio.
Blythe, Jas., 3008 Owensdale Ave,, Brentwood, Pittsburgh, Pa. Boutell, F. J., No. Vancouver, B. C., Canada.
Baldwin, M. A., R. R. No. 1, Lynden, Wash.
Brown, Mrs. H. L., 4455 Montalos St., Ocean Beach, Calif.
Banks, T. Harry, R. R, 1, Bothell, Wash.
Banks, L. J., Bakersfield, Calif.
Boden, P. A., 1108 N. 13th St., Springfield, Ill.
Berg, R. J., Burlington, Wash.
Berry, Mrs. R. H., Calgary, Alberta, Canada.
Colvin, C. R., Rt. 50, Lansing, Mich.
Chambers, Theo. L., 1124 Lane Blvd., Kalamazoo, Mich.
Collier, T. J., 1019 Olive St., Pine Bluff, Ark.
Cole, C. V., Box 211, Midwest, Wyo.
Couse, Eugene, Moose Lake, Minn.
Cosper, Helen L., Walla Walla, Wash.
Compton, R. Frank, R. F. D. No. 1, Box 119, Glendale, Ariz. Chapman, W. T., 2630 Valley Blvd., El Monte, Calif.
Chapman, Victor, Bradley, Ill.
Carlisle, L. E., R. F. D. No. 2, Prosser, Wash.
Case, C. M., Dwyer, Wyo.
Click, Carl, Box 706, El Dorado, Ark.
Carter, H. K., Box 174, Tacoma, Wash.
Cole, Oren S., Ferndale, Mich.
Carpenter, W. I., 214 E. Stuart St., Clarinda, Iowa.
Carlton, R. W., 1129 Vernon St., Pueblo, Colo.
Dodge, W. F„ 5201 S. Eye St., Tacoma, Wash.
Daggett, C. W., No. Monmouth, Me.
Dotter, Arthur, Finch, Mont.
De Witt, T. L., 4058 Cherokee Ave., San Diego, Calif.
Douglas, Kay, Ashley, Ohio.
Daugherty, H., Macon, Ga.
Dietrich, Irwin W., Box 88, Bernharts, Pa.
Davis, Jesse B., 329 Cherry St., Norristown, Pa.
Dowling, John W., Hamilton, Mont.
Eastlack, V. G., 335 W. 10th Ave.. Conshocken, Pa.
Everard, Felix, R. 2, Manitowoc, Wis.
Elliott, R. E., Box 1024, Santa Ana, Calif.
Fuller, W. E., Box 328, Bellingham, Wash.
French, Mrs. J., 3628 Saanich Rd., Victoria, B. C.
Fuller, Chas. G., Bicknell, Ind.
Fordham, M. S., R. 1, Box 354, Centralia, Wash.
Finley, A. M., R. 3, Clarinda, Iowa.
Fairchild, E. C., 1105 W. Douglas Ave., Wichita, Kans.
Foster, Frank C., R. R. 16, Randolph, Ohio.
Fountain, Wayne, R. R. No. 8, Box 205, Phoenix, Ariz.
Fraedrich, Ed. J., R. 2, Box 277, Tucson, Ariz.
Facey, Albert, Jr., Benedict Ave., Valley Stream, Long Island, N. Y.
French, W. A., 3628 Saanich Ave., Victoria, B. C., Canada.
Fenton, W. E., Burlington. Wash.
Fehr, John C., 1302 Woodlawn Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.
Fulk, W. H., 1115 3rd Ave., Hunting, W. Va.
Gilbert, W. F., Maumee, Ohio.
Goss, G. W., Pensacola, Fla.
Goodman, W. R., Box 177, Entiat, Wash.
Griffin, T. C., Box 243, Valdosta, Ga.
Garland, W. B., R. D. No. 1, No. Canton, Ohio.
Goettle, O. F., Petaluma, Calif.
Gessner, R. A., 1812 Ryans St., Lincoln, Nebr.
Graves, Robt. J., Smyrna Mills, Me.
Green, Geo., 1862 E. 66th St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Gudim, A. C., St. Louis Park, Minn.
Gannon, Mrs. N., 2735 Stockton Blvd., Sacramento, Calif. Greenwood, E., Box 1031, Victoria, B. C., Canada.
Gibbons, A. S., Box 247, Maryville, Tenn.
Griffin, Lewis S. J., 812 E. Costello St., Colorado Springs, Colo. Heilman, E., Eureka, S. Dak.
Hinshaw, Carl F., Lakes Wales, Fla.
Hulbert, W., Cooksburg, N. Y.
Holmes, J. C., Holmes Park, Mo.
Hoeft, Jack, R. F. D. No. 7, Spokane, Wash.
Holcombe, C. W., Baldwin Park, Calif.
Hutchinson, Fred, 1148 Cedar Ave., College Hill, Cincinnati, Ohio. Hirstine, J. L., 2314 Pearl Ave., Ft. Worth, Texas.
Hobart, V. A., Dalkena, Wash.
Hepp, Leroy E., 151 Emma St., Syracuse, N. Y.
Harper, Chas., 6306 Suburban Ave., St. Louis, Mo.
Herrlein, Harry G., New City, N. Y.
Holmes, W. N., 959 E. California St., Pasadena, Calif.
Hookway, George, 4159 E. 108th St., Cleveland, Ohio.
Johnson, Dr. L. D., P. O. Box 1600, Casper, Wyo.
James, G. Cooper, Germantown, Tenn.
Jones, T. O., 660 N. 5th St., Laramie, Wyo.
Jones, R. A., 1330 W. 11th St., Lorain, Ohio.
Jones, N. P., Box 442, Rt. 2, Edgewater, Colo.
Juza, Jos. F., Husum, Wash.
Junion, J., Hapeville, Ga.
Jones, W. D., 703 W. 11th St., North Platte, Nebr.
Kerr, A. J., 549 Albert St., Stratford, Ont., Canada.
Knoles, Harold, Blue Grass, Iowa.
Kaser, E. N., Grants Pass, Oregon.
Killeen, Patrick, 4121 Kansas St., San Diego, Calif.
Kerner, H. G., 140 Davison Ave., W., Highland Park, Mich.
Kriebs, Aug. N., Hackensack, Minn.
Kerr, Dr. Ernest E., 1403 Sterling Ave., Independence Mo.
Klaus, N. H„ Sedro Woolley, Wash.
Lowe, H. H., Talent, Oregon.
Lowell, Ralph S., 391 Lexington St., Auburndale, Mass.
Lee, Ray E., Canby, Oregon.
Lacy, Edw. L., Sr., P. O. Box 322, Arlington, Texas.
Links, Jacob, 306 Wall St., Kalamazoo, Mich.
Lokensgard, M. O., Kenyon, Minn.
Loose, Geo. H., 35 Bond St., Ashtabula, Ohio.
Lewis, C., Essex, Mont.
Large, Raymond J., Deer Lodge Hospital, Winnipeg, Man., Canada. Lawrence, S. B., Grand Forks, B. C., Canada.
Limbeck, A. E., Lincoln, Nebr.
Meens, A. W., Grand Junction, Colo.
Mettetal, Henry E., 651 Otis Ave., Hazel Park, Mich.
Merrill, Fred S., Flora Rd. No. 32, Greenacres, Wash.
Moats, L. C., Jr., Rt. 1, Box 849, Hawthorne, Calif.
Mackay, Wm., Box 285, Swift Current, Sask., Canada.
Mieras, D., 119 Grove St., N. E., Grand Rapids, Mich.
Merrick, R. C., R. R. 7, Box 267, Portland, Oregon.
Milner, H. R., Box 614, Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Meinzer, R. E., Monte Vista, Colo.
Mathews, Frank E., 3768 Oakdale Ave., Lamanda Park, Calif. Mansell, Allen, Hampton, Iowa.
Meares, G. L„ 139 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, Fla.
Nance, Jas. M., 2766 S. Logan St., Englewood. Colo.
Norton, Leonard, R. R. No. 3, Three Rivers, Mich.
Oliverson, W. B., 1622 W. 31, Oklahoma City, Okla.
O’Connell, P. J., Lynnmour, P. O., N. Vane., B. C., Canada.
Osborn, H. E., 3525 68th St., Portland, Oregon.
O’Neal, C. W., 2440 Ave. G, Council Bluffs, Iowa.
Peefer, John T., 58 Miller Ave., Xenia, Ohio.
Peterson, Lyle R., R. No. 2, Parma, Idaho.
Palmer, Thornton E., Skull Valley, Ariz.
Platt H. M., 1102 Euclid Ave., Pueblo, Colo.
Patterson, W. N., 443 E. 2nd St., Albany, Oregon.
Powers, S. P., 125 S. Bon View Ave., Ontario, Calif.
Petty, C. F., 1416 Columbia St., San Diego, Calif.
Pike, Mrs. Floyd, 747 N. Claudina St., Anaheim, Calif.
Powell, H. W., 923 Alaska Bldg., Seattle, Wash.
Palmer, E. N., La Grande, Oregon.
Phillips, W. F., Rt. A, Box 5F, Bakersfield, Calif.
Reynolds, Frank O., Apt. R, 910 S. Carrollton Ave., New Orleans, La. Rogers, C. J., Custer, Wash.
Reynolds, O. H., 3621 Broadway, R. 5, Boise, Idaho.
Richardson, L. J., Security Natl. Bank Bldg., Arkansas City, Kans. Rankin, John Forrest, 661 Ellisworth St., San Francisco, Calif.
Reeder, V. C., Box 5149, Gateway Sta., Kansas City, Mo.
Renner, A. R., Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Richter, John, No. 3 Brewster Ave., No. Plymouth, Mass.
Rice, H. S., P. O. Box 242, Spokane, Wash.
Stotts, Frank E., Alida, Minn.
Smith, Robt. F., Coconut Grove, Fla.
Smith, Ernest B., 1108 Diamond Ave., South Bend, Ind.
Shireman, E. G., Box 104, Story, Wyo.
Sautters, Karl E., 1020 Roslyn Ave., S. W., Canton, Ohio.
Stockdale, Harry R., 301 E. Cross St., Ypsilanti, Mich.
Scott, Robt. M., P. O. Box 6016, Torresdale, Pa.
Smith, Fred L., Lima, Mont.
Stodel, A. M., 100 N. Hobart Blvd., Hollywood, Calif.
Smith, Wm. L., 103 Waco St., Wichita Falls, Texas.
Simpson, J. E., 3525 W. 39th Ave., Denver, Colo.
Sharrow, R. H., Morrisville, Vt.
Schroeder, Dr. H. F., Marinette, Wis.
Spessard, H. E., Schoolfleld, Va.
Schrode, D. L., 705 S. 12th St., Salem, Oregon.
Scharff, J. Hathaway, 74 Stager St., Nutley, N. J.
Storms, Reed, Welborn Rt. 4, Kansas City, Kans.
Scott, A. D., Heaton, N. Dak.
Taylor, I. W., 22 Lang Ave., Hapeville, Ga.
Tolvstad, J. H., 422 W. Curtis St., Aberdeen, Wash.
Thorpe, Jas., Asquith, Sask., Canada.
Thrall, Earl W„ 753 Lincoln Ave., Beloit, Wis.
Towery, B. H., Plainview, Texas.
Van Horn, H. A., 1325 A Ave., East, Cedar Rapids, Iowa.
Vance, Al. W., 2435 S. 5th East, Salt Lake City, Utah.
Van Slyke, R. N., Sioux Falls, S. Dak.
Van Buren, Grant G., R. F. D. No. 1, Bedford, Ohio.
Wise, J. Le Roy, 1614 Grand Ave., Grand Junction, Colo.
Wheeler, M., Sioux Falls, S. Dak.
Welling, Casper, Peebles, Wis.
Wilmer, C. J., Helena, Mont.
Willis, G. G., 110 Lucile Ave., Greenville, S. C.
Wynn, Jack K., 615 Grainger, Ft. Worth, Texas.
Wilson, C. D., Rte. 5, Gettysburg, Pa.
Wilson, C. J., Harney, Md.
West, Geo. S., 3131 Burton, Lynwood, Calif.
Williams, S. V., Keymar, Md.
White, R. D„ 1309 W. Elm St., Enid, Okla.
White, N. I., Box 105, La Center, Wash.
Wyeth, Dr. C. L., 707 Trust Bldg., Newark, Ohio.
Witt, Frank C., Butler, S. Dak.
Wells, Mrs. L. N., 521 Mead St., Denver, Colo.
Winters, T. Guv, So. Bellingham, Wash.
Wasche, J. A., Bluffton, Minn.
Witt, Fred T., R. R. No. 1, Clintonville, Wis.
Woolly, C., 2895 Inlet Drive, Victoria, B. C., Canada.
Whitcomb, R. B., P. O. Box 626, La Mesa, Calif.
Walker, Mrs. E. N., Gresham, Oregon.
Weygandt, A., 7408 Normal Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Wendel, C. L., Morley, Colo.
Warsinske, A. E., 326 First Ave., Spokane, Wash.
Zeglin, R. W., Coney Isle, P. O. Waconia, Minn.
Zeigler, H. F., 64 E. Washington St., Hagerstown, Md.
Zapusheck, John, 905 Humbolt St., Peoria, III.
Adams, Chas. J., 525 E. Munson St., Denison, Texas.
Ashton, V. N., 798 Oak St., Lima, Ohio.
Barrow, Chas. R., 417 N. Colorado, Kansas City, Mo.
Brodhurst, E. M., Brentwood Bay, Vancouver, B. C., Canada.
Barrett, R. J., 1st and Nebraska St., Sioux City, Iowa.
Brattain, W. L., 327 S. Jefferson St., Dayton, Ohio.
Bremmer, Agnes E., R. 4, Box 49, Tacoma, Wash.
Barlow, Percy, Marshfield, P. E. I., Canada.
Bentz, R. H., 851 Springdale St., Akron, Ohio.
Brown, C. H., 1362 Getz St., South Akron, Ohio.
Blythe, Jas., 851 Timberland Ave., S. Hills Sta., Pittsburgh, Pa. Boden, P. A., 1108 N. 13th St., Springfield, Ill.
Bricklev, D. T., 17 S. 8th St., Kenmore, Ohio.
Bovey, Mrs. R. H., 1115 7th Ave., W., Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Colvin, C. R., Rte. 50, Lansing, Mich.
Conway, Joseph L., 441 W. Second St., Allentown, Pa.
Carter, H. K.. Box 174, Tacoma, Wash.
Carlton, R. W., 1429 Vernon St., Pueblo, Colo.
Dodge, W. F., 5201 S. Eye St., Tacoma, Wash.
DeWitt, T. L., 4058 Cherokee Ave., San Diego, Calif.
Eldridge, Herbert, Menlo Park, Calif.
Eastlack, V. G., 335 W. 10th Ave., Conshohocken, Pa.
Fuller, W. E., Box 325, Bellingham, Wash.
French, Mrs. J., 3628 Saanich Rd., Victoria, B. C., Canada.
Foster, Frank C., Box 16, Randolph, Ohio.
French, W. A., 3628 Saanich Rd., Victoria, B. C., Canada.
Fullois, Ed., 1209 Division St., Indianapolis, Ind.
Fehr, John C., 1302 Woodlawn Ave., Indianapolis. Ind.
Facey, Albert E., Jr., Benedict Ave., Valley Stream, Long Island, N Y Green, Roy A., R. D. No. 1, Warren, Ohio.
Gilbert, W. F., Maumee, Ohio.
Garland, W. B., R. D. No. 1, No. Canton, Ohio.
Green, Geo., 1862 E. 66th St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Gilbert, H. C., Syracuse, N. Y.
Griffin, Lewis S. J., 812 E. Costella St., Colorado Springs, Colo. Holcombe, C. W., Baldwin Park, Calif.
Harper, Chas., 6306 Suburban Ave., St. Louis. Mo.
Hickford, J. S., Seven Oaks, P. O., Victoria, B. C., Canada.
Herrlein, Harry G., New City, N. Y.
Holmes, W. N„ 959 E. Col. St., Pasadena, Calif.
Hookway, George, 4159 E. 108th St., Cleveland, Ohio.
Jones, W. D., 703 W. 11th St., No. Platte, Nebr Jones. R. A., 1330 W. 11th St., Lorain, Ohio.
Jayne, Geo. H., Elmsford, N. Y.
Kerner, Harry G„ 140 Davison Ave., Highland Park, Mich.
Kerr, C. W., 319 W. Gandy, Denison, Texas.
Kiefhaber, F. D., 6850 Diaz Ave., Lankershim, Calif.
Lowell, Ralph S., 391 Lexington St., Auburndale, Mass.
Lacey, Edw. L., P. O. Box 322, Arlington, Texas.
Loose, G. H., 35 Bond St., Ashtabula, Ohio.
Lawrence, S. B., Grand Forks, B. C., Canada.
Links, Jacob, 306 Wall St., Kalamazoo, Mich.
Mackay, Wm., 269 4th Ave., Swift Current, Sask., Canada.
Milner, H. R., P. O. Box 614, Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Moats, L. C., Jr., Rt. 1, Box 849, Hawthorne, Calif.
Mieras, D., 119 Grove St., N. E., Grand Rapids Mich.
Merrick, R. E., R. R. 7, Box 267, Portland, Oregon.
Meinzer, R. E., Monte Vista, Colo.
Osborn, Hal. E., 3525 68th St., Portland, Oregon.
Patterson, W. R„ Denver, Colo.
Petty, C. F., 1416 Columbus St., San Diego, Calif.
Reeder, V. C., 2208 E, 73rd St., Kansas Citv, Mo.
Rice, H. S., 3418 E. 30, Spokane, Wash.
Renner, A. R., Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Richter, John, No. 3 Brewster Ave., No. Plymouth, Mass.
Stoner, M., 1134 S. Seneca St., Wichita, Kans.
Simpson. J. E., 3525 W. 39th Ave., Denver, Colo.
Sennewald, C. M., 13151 Wilshire Ave., Detroit, Mich.
Sautters, Karl E., 1020 Roslyn Ave., S. W., Canton, Ohio.
Stump, A. M., 301 N. Jeff. St., New Castle, Pa.
Spraguer, C. H., 3935 Stevens Ave., Minneapolis. Minn.
Scott. Robert M., P. O. Box 6016, Torresdale, Pa.
Storms, Reed, Welborn Rt. No. 4, Kansas City, Kans.
Stodel, A. M., 100 N. Hobart Blvd., Hollywood, Calif.
Schultze, Oscar F., 39-41 Main St., Norwalk, Conn.
Shab, Chas. F., 427 Market Ave. So., Canton, Ohio.
Taylor, I. W., 22 Long Ave., Hapeville. Ga.
Vance, Al. W., 2435 S. 5th E., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Winters, T. Guy, So. Bellingham, Wash.
Wells, Mrs. L. N., 521 Mead St., Denver, Colo.
Witt, Fred T., R. R. No. 1, Clintonville, Wisc.
Woolly, C., 2895 Inlet Drive, Victoria, B. C., Canada.
Whitcomb, R. B., P. O. Box 626, La Mesa, Calif.
Walker, Mrs. E. M., Gresham, Oregon.
Weygandt, A., 7408 Normal Ave., Chicago, Ill.
York, Sarah Jane, Mena, Ark.
The duties of the state representatives shall be to promote the interests of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association in his state. To boost the industry and particularly the interests of the American Association. Whenever possible to attend the different shows and meetings of the different local associations in his or her state, and by all means try and attend the annual convention of the American association. To encourage harmony, and the affiliation of the various local associations with the American, the parent body, whenever the occasion presents itself. By all means see that the rabbits get proper recognition at his state fair and encourage entries at as many county fairs as possible.
To advocate the use of our registration system. A system that stands out above all others as being the only system that gives an accurate registration on your habbits.
To advise breeders on various problems that may come up in breeding, feeding, shipping, selling, etc. To encourage the breeding of rabbits for meat, fur and fancy. Also to encourage the exhibition of all breeds at local, state and American shows and assist in every way possible to advance the industry and the American association.
To ascertain from the various breeders in his state what legislation is required by them to be handled by the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, and report to the Board for action or see that same is taken up at the annual convention.
To make regular reports of the development in his state to the secretary.
The following members have been appointed for 1928:
California—Andrew Stodel, 100 N. Hobart Blvd., Hollywood; Geo. Green, 1862 E. 66th St., Los Angeles; Mrs. N. Gannon, 2735 Stockton Blvd., Sacramento; Leray P. Pierce, Box 594, Arcade Sta., Los Angeles.
Illinois—Ed. Steinkuehler, 1228 N. 14th St.. Springfield.
Indiana—O. M. Spaid, 124 E. Navarre St., South Bend.
Kentucky—S. H. Bow, Box 449, Louisville.
Wisconsin—Felix Everard, R. R. 2, Manitowoc.
Texas—Chas. J. Adams, 525 E. Munson St., Denison; Ed Gray, 1227 S. Ewing St., Dallas; R. L. George, 2017 Thomas Place, Ft. Worth.
Vermont—Ray H. Sharrow, Morrisville.
Virginia—H. E. Spessard, Schoolfield.
West Virginia—R. W. Johnson, Philippi.
Wyoming—E. G. Shireman, Box 104, Story.
Alabama—Miss Christie Schwartz, R. R. 1, Citronelle.
Arizona—T. E. Palmer, Skull Valley.
Minnesota—E. Wohlauf, 1944 E. Minnehaha St., St. Paul.
Montana—Arthur Dotter, Finch.
New Mexico—Paul Williamson, 123 Vassar, Albuquerque.
North Dakota—Albert Alf, Cathay.
South Carolina—G. A. Vaughn, Charleston.
South Dakota—M. Wheeler, Sioux Falls.
Arkansas—T. J. Collier, 1019 S, Olive St., Pine Bluff.
Delaware—J. E. Wilgus, Shelbyville.
Idaho—Lyle R. Peterson, Parma.
Iowa—R. J. Barrett, 1st and Nebraska St., Sioux City.
Michigan—D. Mieras, 119 Grove St., N. E., Grand Rapids.
Louisiana—Frank O. Reynolds, Apt. R, 910 S. Carrollton Ave., New Orleans.
Maine—G. H. Stetson, Monmouth.
Maryland—C. J. Wilson, Harney.
Mississippi—C. B. Mahaffey, Port Gibson.
New Hampshire—Jeannette Welch, R. R. 1, Thorton's Ferry.
North Carolina—W. E. Morrison, Wilkesboro.
Oklahoma—W. B. Oliverson, 1622 W. 31st St., Oklahoma City.
Rhode Island—Geo. H. York, 1226 Plainfield St., Thorton.
Tennessee—A. S. Gibbons, Marysville.
Ohio—G. H. Brown, 1362 Getz St., South Akron.
Georgia—I. W. Taylor, 22 Lang Ave., Hopeville.
Florida—G. W. Goss, 1225 E. Blount St., Pensacola.
Colorado—T. H. Wells, 521 Meade St., Denver; R. W. Patterson, Box 12, Delta. Connecticut—Oscar F. Schultz, 39 Main St., Norwalk.
Kansas—Reed Storms, R. R. 4. Kansas City: M. Stoner, 1134 S. Seneca St., Wichita. Massachusetts—Fred Leach, 88 Spring St., Stoneham.
Missouri—R. J. Bernhardt, Box 606, R. R. 29, St. Louis.
New York—Albert E. Facey, Jr., Benedict Ave., Valley Stream, Long Island.
Nebraska—Dr. Krajicek, Scribner; W. D. Jones, 703 W. 11th St., North Platte.
Oregon—H. R. Milner, Box 614, Klamath; Hal Osborn, 3525 68th St., Portland.
Pennsylvania—Jas. Blythe, 851 Timberland Ave., S. Hills Sta., Pittsburgh; Jesse Davis, 329 Cherry St., Norristown.
Utah__Al W. Vance, 2435 S. 5th, E. Salt Lake City.
Washington—M. S. Fordham, R. R. 1, Box 345, Centralia.
Canada—Capt. Babbington, Sluggetts P. O., Victoria, B. C.; Mrs. J. French, 3628 Saanich Rd., Victoria, B. C.
American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association of Puget Sound, R. F. D. No. 1, Olympia Wash., W. S. Mix, Secretary.
Northwestern Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association, Pugetchehalis, Wash., D. R. Mathes, Secretary.
Skagit Co. Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, Burlington, Wash., W. E. Fenton, Secretary.
Whatcome Co. Rabbit Breeders Association, 1901-32d St., Bellingham, Wash., Joe King, Secretary.
Inland Empire Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association, R. D. No. 8, Spokane, Wash., Henry Peden, Secretary.
Spokane Rabbit Breeders Association, P. O. Box 242, Spokane, Wash., H. S. Rice, Secretary.
Chelan Co. Rabbit Club, Box 177, Entiat, Wash., Mrs. W. R. Goodman, Secretary. Yakima Valley Rabbit Breeders Association, R. R. No. 3, Box 260, Yakima, Wash., Nellie Southwell, Secretary.
The Snohomish Co. Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, R. F. D. No. 1, Bothell, Wash., Lester I. Shipley, Secretary.
Maumee Poultry & Pet Stock Association, Maumee, Ohio, A. B. Metcalf, Secretary. The Canton Rabbit & Cavy Club, 516 Sippo St., Massillon, Ohio, H. C. Foltz, Secretary. Lorain Co. Rabbit & Cavy Association, R. R. No. 2, Elyria, Ohio, A. H. Montague, Secretary.
The Ashtabula Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, 35 Bond St., Ashtabula, Ohio, G. H. Loose, President.
Toledo Rabbit Breeders Association, Sta. C., Toledo, Ohio, L. E. Carpenter, Secretary. Greater Cincinnati Rabbit Breeders & Fanciers Association, Mt. Washington, Cincinnati, Ohio, Clyde Oursler, Secretary.
Cleveland Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, 17323 St. Clair Ave., Cleveland, Ohio, Julius C. Sharp, Secretary.
The Lima Rabbit Breeders Association, R. R. No. 4, Lima, Ohio, Louis Forney, Secretary.
Pueblo Rabbit & Cavy Club, 601 Acere, Pueblo, Colo., W. F. Edwards, Secretary. Arapohoe Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, 3045 S. Delaware St., Englewood, Colo., Geo. Benninger, Secretary.
Colorado Rabbit Breeders Meat & Fur Association, 521 Meade St., Denver, Colo., Mrs. L. N. Wells, Secretary.
Western Colorado Rabbit Breeders Association, Grand Junction, Colo., E. R. Fisher, Secretary.
Southern Colorado Rabbit Breeders Association, Box 138, Trinidad, Colo., C. W. Chandler, Secretary.
Kalamazoo Rabbit & Pet Stock Association, 1124 Lane Blvd., Kalamazoo, Mich., Theo. L. Chambers, Secretary.
Greater Detroit Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, 651 W. Otis Ave., Hazel Park, Mich., Henry E. Mettetal, President.
Detroit Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, 234 S. Reid Ave., Detroit, Mich., F. W. Fisher, Secretary.
Great Lakes Rabbit & Pet Stock Club, 2117 Stafford Ave., S. W. Grand Rapids, Mich., J. F. Baines, Secretary.
Flint Poultry & Pet Stock Association, 122 Flint Park Blvd., Flint, Mich., L. L. Mac Farlane, Secretary.
Redlands Rabbit Breeders, 1705 Wash., Redlands, Calif., J. R. Berry, Secretary-Treasurer.
S. D. Co. Rabbit Breeders Association, 4058 Cherokee Ave., San Diego, Calif., T. L. DeWitt, Secretary.
Natl. Rabbit Breeders Association of Calif., 3820 J. St., Sacramento, Calif., J. B. Feraud, Secretary.
Pacific Rabbit Breeders Association, 1608 D. St., Hayward, Calif., Ed. W. Korstad, Secretary.
Rabbit Breeders Association of Central Calif., P. O. Box 321, Modesto, Calif., L. M. Campbell, Secretary.
Golden Gate Fur & Rabbit Breeders Association, 148 Flournoy St., San Francisco, Calif., Chas. H. Cope, Secretary-Treasurer.
Associated Rabbit Breeders of Riverside Co., 653 Pennsylvania Ave., Riverside, Calif., C. R. Conway, President.
San Fernando Valley Rabbit Breeders Association, P. O. Box 245, Burbank, Calif., R. W. Farr, Secretary.
Santa Clara Valley Rabbit Breeders Association, 45 S. 23rd St., San Jose, Calif., Thos. Gruwell, Secretary.
Orange Co. Mutual Rabbit Breeders Association, 331 S. Kroeger St., Anaheim, Calif., Clyde S. Williams, Secretary.
The Dallas Co. Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, 2503 Model St., Dallas, Texas, Joe B. Renshaw, Secretary-Treasurer.
Southwestern Domestic Rabbit Club, Ft. Worth, Texas, E. N. Smith, Secretary.
Wichita Co. Rabbit Breeders Association, 103 Waco St., Wichita Falls, Texas, Wm. L. Smith, Secretary.
Square Deal Rabbit Club, 305 W. Mich. Ave., Electra, Texas, J. A. Taylor, Secretary.
Mass. State Rabbit Breeders Association, 33 Nye Ave., Brockton, Mass., Louis G. Herman, Secretary.
United Rabbit & Cavy Club of Mass., Inc., 391 Lexington St., Auburndale, Mass., Ralph S. Lowell, Clerk.
Indiana & Michigan Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, 124 E. Novarre St., So. Bend, Ind., O. M. Spaid, Secretary-Treasurer.
Indianapolis Rabbit Breeders Association, Box 79D, Bridgeport, Ind., Wm. R. Kester, Secretary.
Oregon State Rabbit Breeders Association, R. 3, Box 472, Portland, Oregon, Mrs. Katherine Hayes, Secretary-Treasurer.
The Klamath Rabbit Breeders Association, Underwood Bldg., Klamath Falls, Oregon, A. L. Travis, President.
Oregon Branch American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, 337 E. 73rd St., Portland, Oregon, Alice M. Lehmann, Secretary,
Central Oregon Rabbit Breeders Association, Box 322, Bend, Oregon, Mrs. I. R. Pickett, Secretary.
Southern Oregon Mutual Rabbit Breeders Association, Gold Hill, Oregon, R. Hegner, Secretary.
The Lane County Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Eugene, Ore., A. D. Collier, Secretary.
Southern Oregon Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, 210 Main St., Klamath Falla, Oregon, W. W. Doreant, Secretary.
Atlanta Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Club, Atlanta, Georgia, J. J. Lamb, Secretary, P. O. Box 573.
Middle Georgia Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Macon, Georgia, E. Ross Jordan, Secretary.
Dixie Rabbit Breeders Club, 274 E. 4th St., Atlanta, Georgia, Hugh P. Holcomb, Secre tary.
Dakota Rabbit and Fur Animal Breeders Association, 1101 S. Second Ave., Sioux City, Iowa, M. Wheeler, Secretary.
The Fairfield, Iowa, Rabbit Breeders Association, 800 S. 2nd St., Fairfield, Iowa, Earl W. Rube, Secretary.
Florida West Coast Rabbit Breeders Association, Route 1, Box 8, Tampa, Florida, B. F. Brown, Secretary.
Dade County Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, 267 N. W. 31st St., Miami, Florida, Archie F. Chapman, Secretary.
The Georgia-Florida Rabbit and Cavy Club, P. O. Box 3226, Tampa, Florida, J. F. Almond, Secretary.
Nebraska Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, X. O. East 6th St., Columbus, Nebraska, Melvin E. Behrens, Secretary Treasurer.
The Omaha Rabbit Breeders Association, 2024 N. 68th St., Omaha, Nebraska, Mrs. P. C. Sprecher, Secretary-Treasurer.
Wyoming Fur Breeders Association, 129 S. Kenwood St., Casper, Wyoming, R. D. Goble, Secretary-Treasurer.
Weber County Rabbit Breeders Association, 576 8th St., Ogden, Utah, J. J. Stewart, Secretary.
Utah County Rabbit Breeders Association, 755 W. 3rd So., Provo, Utah, Vearl S. Johnson, Secretary.
Utah Rabbit Breeders Association, 2435 S. 5th E., Salt Lake City, Utah, Al W. Vance, Secretary.
Twin City Rabbit Breeders Meat and Fur Association, 1954 University Ave., St. Paul, Minn., J. F. Kocourek, Secretary.
Kansas Breeders and Fanciers Association, 1134 S. Seneca St., Wichita, Kansas, Stoner, Secretary-Treasurer.
Golden Belt Breeders and Fanciers Association, 5 College Ct,, Salina Kansas, R. Shipe, Secretary.
Western Pennsylvania Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, 7914 Madeira St., Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, O. L. Bostedo, Secretary.
Pittsburgh Rabbit and Cavy Association, 505 Rebecca St., Wilkinsburg, Pennsylvania. J. R. Sutton, Secretary.
Capital Rabbit Breeders Association, 1228 N. 14th St., Springfield, Illinois, Ed. Stein-kuehler, Secretary.
Northern Idaho Rabbit Breeders Association, Dover, Idaho, Mrs. Endora D. Blood, Secretary.
Provincial Exhibition Association, P. O. Drawer 760, N. Westminister, B. C., Canada, D. E. McKenzie, Manager.
Vancouver Rabbit Breeders Association, 1142 Park Drive, Vancouver, B. C., G. A. Finnsson, Secretary.
Saanich Fur Farmers Association, Victoria, B. C., Canada, Dudley V. Abbott, Secretary. The Canadian Chinchilla Club of Greater Vancouver, N. Lonsdale, B. C., Canada, J. F. Chapman, Secretary.
The Boundry Rabbit and Pet Stock Association, Grand Forks, B. C., Canada, S. B. Lawrence, Secretary.
The Alberta Rabbit Breeders Association, 1115 7th Ave., W. Calgary, Canada, Mrs. R. H. Berry, Secretary.
The Cavy Breeders of America, 4904 E. 24th St., Kansas City, Missouri, Roy B. Jones, Secretary.
Midwest Rabbit and Cavy Club, 417 N. Colorado St., Kansas City, Missouri, Mrs. C. R. Barrow, Secretary.
Illinois-Missouri Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, R. R. 29, Box 606, St. Louis, Mo., R. J. Barnhardt, Secretary.
St. Louis Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, R. R. 29, Box 606, R. J. Bernhardt, Secretary.
New Jersey
Essex County Poultry, Pigeon and Pet Stock Association, 2 Lane Ave., Caldwell, N. J., R. P. Van Dyke, Secretary.
The Northwestern Oklahoma Rabbit Breeders Association, 1232 E. 25th St., Tulsa, Oklahoma, J. W. Collins, Secretary.
Oklahoma Rabbit Breeders Association, P. O. Box 848, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, Dr. H. W. Ayers, Secretary.
Falls Cities Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, 815 19th St., Louisville, Kentucky, W. Gilchrist, Secretary.
South Dakota
Dakota Rabbit and Fur Animal Breeders Association, 1101 S. 2nd Ave., Sioux Falls, South Dakota, M. Wheeler, Secretary.
South Dakota Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Harnsburg, South Dakota, Dr. L. L. Dunn, Secretary.
New York
The Eastern Rabbit Breeders Association, Benedict Avenue and Merrick Road, Valley Stream, Long Island, New York, Albert E. Facey, Secretary.
The first thought usually for the beginner about to embark into the Babbit Business is “Which Breed Shall I Select” or “Which Breed is the Best” and the one that will give me best returns in my new under taking.
As we have many Good Breeds of Rabbits it would be difficult even for the old experienced breeder to choose any one Breed as the Best Breed. We have many Good Breeds of Rabbits and almost any variety if handled properly will produce good results and profit to the breeder. In this respect much more depends on the Breeder or individual than the Breed itself.
One will choose one variety and make a success with it, another will make a complete failure with the same breed and usually the failure by the unsuccessful breeder is placed on the breed itself rather than the breeder.
So from experience, and the experience of others, I suggest that the beginner choose the breed which most appeals to him and he will make a success with it. Of course there are certain exceptions to this rule, but nine out of ten, in doing this will make no mistake.
Occasionally you will hear a breeder remark—this or that breed is “No Good,” but we have many cases of where one will drop a breed condemning it as unprofitable, while another will breed the same variety for years and find them a success in every particular and profitable. So our contention is that there is GOOD in ALL BREEDS and one must remember that the breed is not always at fault but success in rabbit raising not only depends on the BREED but the BREEDER, HOUSING and CARE of the rabbits.
A short description with illustrations of various breeds follows. See Standards for fuller description.
One of our most beautiful rabbits and until recent years considered a purely Fancy Variety, but now one of our leading commercial varieties account of the great value of the wool which it produces.
The Angora on this account should be classed as a “Wool Rabbit” and not a fur rabbit as referred to by some writers.
The rabbit originated in the early 50's in Persia, in the same district where the Angora goat made its appearance and was later imported to France and England and the United States. They are bred in white, blue, black or “smoke” and fawns.
The Angora is not only a beautiful exhibition rabbit, but a useful and profitable rabbit to raise on account of the valuable wool produced.
(Courtesy Mrs. L. Schwartz) Angora Wooler Buck
This is a new breed having been admitted to our Standard at our Convention held at Colorado Springs, Nov. 30, Dec. 5, 1925.
The American Heavy Weight Silver was originated by that veteran
(Courtesy W. B. Garland)
American Heavyweight Silver
Rabbit Breeder, Mr. W. B. Garland of N. Canton, Ohio, and promises to be one of the leading commercial breeds as they produce a beautiful fur of good quality and their size is sufficient to make them a good producer of meat at an early age. At present they are bred in Grays and Blues, but in time the other two colors will probably be perfected as I understand the originator has them well on the way to perfection at this writing.
Strictly an American production the American Blue might be termed the “Plymouth Rock” of the rabbit family.
The American Blue with its medium size and quick development along with its fur producing qualities makes it a good general purpose breed
(Courtesy Lewis H. Salisbury) American Blue Buck
and also a profitable one.
They were first exhibited by Mr. Lewis H. Salisbury of Pasadena, Calif., about 1917, and have been bred quite extensively in the United States.
The exhibition type has its many admirers and the Heavy Weight type are valuable for commercial purposes.
One of our most beautiful and useful varieties of rabbits having originated in Germany many years ago and while not as extensively bred as some varieties it possesses the qualities to make it one of our leading com-
(Courtesy W. B. Garland) Black Checkered Giant Buck
mercial varieties as well as a beautiful exhibition rabbit.
While classed as a GIANT it is not as large as the FLEMISH GIANT, but large enough to be attractive and to produce youngsters of a remarkable weight at an early age.
Its beautiful color markings contrasting with its large white body make it very attractive and an exhibit at any show always attracts attention.
It also produces a beautiful fur and same can be used in its natural colors which makes it profitable as a fur rabbit. It is bred in the following colors: Black, Blue, Tortoise and Gray.
A self blue rabbit of the darker blue color and while not of large size, it is considered a good fur rabbit and the skin can be used in the natural color.
The Imperials are about the size of the English but more of a Belgian type.
They arc hardy and the does make good mothers and have a gentle disposition.
Blue Imperial Buck
The Beverens are not only one of the leading Fur Rabbits, but large enough to make a good meat rabbit also placing them on a sound commercial basis.
Blue Beveren Buck
They are bred in Blues and Whites and their skins can be used in the natural state which is an important matter when selecting a fur rabbit. The Blues also possess a beautiful shade of color that makes them
(Courtesy Edwin H. Stahl) Imported White Beveren Doe
very attractive and their skins with this color and their good quality of fur are quite valuable.
The Whites also possess the same quality of fur and their color makes them equally attractive and valuable.
At the present time this rabbit is enjoying much publicity and the demand for breeding stock far exceeds the supply. Like many other breeds its origin seems to be clouded to a certain extent, but it appears to have originated in Serbia in the year 1917, then introduced into France and England and later many specimens have been imported to the United States and Canada.

(Courtesy Edwin H. Stahl) Standard Chinchilla
One cause of its popularity is that it produces fur that is a good imitation of the real chinchilla fur, which is very scarce and valued very highly.
(Courtesy Laurel Rabbitry Standard Chinchilla Buck
The original Chinchilla rabbit is rather small weighing from 5 to 7 lbs., but the breeders are perfecting a larger type. The Heavyweight Chin-
(Courtesy Edwin H. Stahl)
Heavyweight Chinchilla Doe
chillas weight 9 to 10 lbs. in order to make them more profitable as a meat rabbit.
Whether or not this can be done and yet retain the valuable fur qualities of the smaller animal yet remains to be seen, but much has been done to accomplish this already. The color of the Chinchilla Rabbit should be
We now have Standards for the Standard Chinchillas and also the Heavyweight Chinchillas and these can be registered but only a working Standard has been made for the Giant Chinchilla but these will probably be admitted to the Standard at the next convention and are a valuable addition to the Chinchilla family.
Another of our fur breeds and also profitable as a meat rabbit account of size, mature specimens weighing from 7 to 9 pounds.
This variety also known as the “French Silver” originated in France
(Courtesy W. B. Garland) Champaign De Argent Back
over fifty years ago, and one of the oldest breeds and it is to be regretted that more of them are not bred in the United States as they are a beau-
tiful, as well as a useful animal for commercial purposes and are hardy and a good breeder. The skins can also be used and make beautiful furs in their natural state which is of a great advantage to any breed.
In color they are a silver or to resemble an old silver coin and not the dark breed as some prefer to breed for.
One of our oldest breeds of domestic rabbits and for several years considered one of the leading fancy rabbits in England where competition at
Black Dutch Buck
the leading shows was keen and individual specimens of exceptional quality sold at high prices.
Today there are not many of them bred in the United States but they are hardy and productive and the does make the best of mothers and
(Courtesy W. J. Seyfred)
Black English Buck
might justly be called the “Jersey” of the rabbit family for they are producers of milk and make excellent nurse does.
Dutch are not large and are bred in Black, Gray, Yellow and Tortoise.
One of the oldest breeds of rabbits and considered one of the most interesting to breed from a Fancier’s standpoint as there is a fascination
(Courtesy W. J. Seyfred)
Blue English Buck
connected with the breeding of the English that is hard to overcome when one gets to breeding them.
To get the correct markings is no easy task and one can feel he has accomplished something when he produces a prize winner. The English skins make beautiful furs in natural colors as they are bred in Black, Blue, Gray and Tortoise.
The Flemish Giant as the name indicates is the largest breed of rabbit in existence and originated in the early Sixties and were bred from the Old Patagonian Rabbit originating in Flanders, a district in the Southern part of Belgium many years ago.
(Courtesy Miss N. M. Flaherty) Gray Flemish Buck—Good Type
The first Flemish as bred in Flanders was a big loose built, big bellied rabbit with heavy slouching ears and differed very much from the present day Flemish, which is squarely and firmly built and a beautiful specimen to look upon.
Just where the Old Patagonian Rabbit received its name no one seems to know as it did not originate in Patagonia as many are led to believe. They were bred for market purposes for many years in the Flanders district and specimens can yet be found in this district, but generally show an improvement over the old type.
The Old Patagonian Rabbit
The Dark Steel Grays and Blacks as a rule are not bred to produce their color but one can expect youngsters of all three colors in one litter.
The colors, of course, are a matter of choice and the Flemish furnish several for the breeder to select from.
Dark Steel Flemish Doe—Good Type
They are a good meat and fur rabbit and also make a good exhibition rabbit and are bred in Steel, Sandy, and Light Gray, also Black, Whites, Blues and Silver Blacks or Silver Tips.
Black Flemish Buck
However, a few breeders have made good progress in building up a strain that will breed true to color and this is a step in the right direction.
The Silver Tip is not bred extensively in the U. S. but are a beautiful color if bred properly and produce a valuable pelt for fur.
(Courtesy Katherine Hays) White Flemish Doe—Good Type
This along with their meat production make them a good commercial rabbit. Most of the Silver Tip Flemish Breeders are found on the Northwest coast in Oregon and Washington.
The Blue and White Flemish breed true to color and make good commercial rabbits.
They are not quite as large as the Sandy Grays but large enough to produce youngsters for meat purposes at an early age and also make an attractive exhibition rabbit.
(Courtesy W. F. Dodge)
Blue Flemish Doe
One of the most beautiful fur breeds and a very useful rabbit for their skins require no dying but can be used in the natural state as the rich chocolate color is very attractive and there is a good demand for these skins at all times.
Havana Buck
The standard weight of the Havana was increased at our last Con vention which is a step farther to make the breed a great commercial rabbit.
This attractive little rabbit is said to have originated in the Himalyan mountains hence its name, and is also called the Russian Rabbit at times.
Many are found in China and at present the Himalyan is bred in nearly all European countries and a few in the United States. Its white body with dense Black markings make it very attractive and its fur is valuable. Weight about 5 lbs.
Himalayan Buck and Doe
Lilacs are one of our fur breeds and while not large are of a very attractive color and originated in England where they have been bred
Lilac Buck
since 1922. They are about the size of English and are of a pinky dove color.
Their coat is not a “fly back” coat but lies close to the body.
This breed can justly be called an American Rabbit and while its origin like most others is rather “ clouded” there is no doubt but the American Breeders made the rabbit what it is today regardless of where the first specimen came from.
The New Zealands are bred in Reds and Whites and are a medium weight rabbit and a good commercial variety being a good meat producer and furnishing a pelt that is also valuable.
They are of an Orange Buff color and make a beautiful exhibition rabbit and their furs make up well in the natural color.
(Courtesy Mrs. Etta Powers) A Good New Zealand Red Doe
The White New Zealand is coming to the front as a Fur Rabbit and like their Red Cousins make a good meat rabbit.
(Courtesy Katherine Hays) White New Zealand Doe
This is the “Bantam” of the rabbit family and a very attractive little rabbit with its short ears and short chubby body covered with its pure white coat of fur it always attracts the attention in the show room.
There are very few of them bred in the United States at present but they should receive the breeder’s attention for they produce a fur of fine texture and good quality.
For many years the Lop was considered one of the leading fancy rabbits of England and several years ago quite a number were bred in the United States but today the number of good Lops is limited.
English Lop Buck
One cannot help but admire a good animal, and they always attract attention wherever exhibited. They are bred in both solid and broken colors.
This wonderful little animal, though not as extensively bred in this country as in former years is a very valuable fur rabbit and there is a great demand for their skins in the natural colors.
The body or ground color being Black or Blue with tan markings makes them a very attractive rabbit and therefore are one of our leading breeds for exhibition purposes.
Black and Tan Buck
Their fine bone and also fine meat make them suitable for a meat rabbit, where one’s requirements are for a small family.
Though called the Japanese there is no definite proof that this rabbit originated in Japan.
In conversation with a native last Fall he stated he never saw one in Japan.
Japanese Buck
But regardless of where they originated they are a good fur and meat rabbit and its color, gives it a striking appearance. The color is black and yellow running in stripes around the body, the brighter the colors the better.
This rabbit which is about the size of the Beveren promises to be one of the leading fur and meat rabbits and has been called by some a black Beveren, but it is a distnict breed from the Beveren and its jet black fur is attractive, and its frame is large enough to make it a valuable meat producer.
(Courtesy Fur and Feather) Sitka Buck
They are bred in black only and the genuine Sitkas possess fur of one and one-half inches in length which easily distinguishes them from other black rabbits.
These beautiful little rabbits are one of the oldest breeds and are very attractive and a great fur rabbit producing furs that can be used in natural colors and very valuable.
Silver Gray Buck (Light Shade)
They are bred in Grays, Fawns and Browns. The grays come in dark medium and light colors and while the light grays are greatly admired, breeders should hold to the medium shade.
The Fawns are a beautiful and useful fur rabbit and the color should be a deep bright Orange shade extending as far down toward the skin as possible and color should be even all over the animal. Do not use an animal for breeding with a reddish or gray tinge for this is what the breeders must avoid in breeding for color.
Silver Fawn Doe
(Courtesy Laurel Rabbitry Chinchilla Doe and Litter
Rabbit raising is one of the most wonderful opportunities for honest, live wire men, women, boys, and girls to engage in. It is clean, profitable, and permanent. The sales possibilities are great and unlimited. You don’t have to look for prospects, they are around you all the time. But you must start right—show that you mean business and do things to install public confidence. Please remember this.
No matter in what channel you desire to express your activities you must recognize there are ESSENTIAL TO SUCCESS—they are known as FUNDAMENTALS which must be considered and acted upon at all times. Bear this also in mind as that will ensure a RIGHT BEGINNING which is of great importance.
What are these fundamentals or the corner stones of success?
To treat your customer as you would expect him to treat you.
You may sum up these cardinal principles in the terms of HONESTY AND A SINCERE DESIRE FOR WORK plus determination to Success. If you do this YOU ARE BOUND TO SUCCEED. This is practical advice as it comes from ACTUAL EXPERIENCE.
It takes but a few dollars and a little space in your back yard or lot, or on the farm, plus common sense to start this enterprise. If you are not privileged to already have access to a barn or other small outbuilding, it will take but a few common boards, boxes, and nails to construct a place suitable to house your rabbits, and, from time to time, as the business grows you can build additions to your rabbitry and make whatever improvements you deem necessary. All this will come to you by reason of your growing experience. Do not make a mistake by trying to raise rabbits in small soap or apple boxes; cramped space will spell failure.
On account of the fact that a rabbit will eat anything a cow or sheep will eat, and that it is a small animal and is easily fed and cared for, you can see that it takes but a few minutes morning and evening to feed and water the stock, and say half an hour or so once or twice a week to do the cleaning. Your experience will prove that it is very easy and offers a great source of pleasure. This can be done in town or in the country since the rabbit is an animal very readily acclimatized to hot or cold climates.
Boys, and girls, as well as men and women, in all parts of the country are doing well in the raising of rabbits. This is just as much your opportunity as theirs. No matter what your occupation is, this offers you a profitable sideline. People in all walks of life are raising rabbits; doctors, lawyers, school teachers, ministers and other professional men and women, as well as farmers, poultrymen, mechanics, laborers, etc. IT IS EVERYBODY’S OPPORTUNITY—This means it is yours! Practically everybody loves some sort of animal; rabbits are usually loved, and that’s why people take to them so freely, and always find ready markets for the offspring. Women in particular make a success of the business; many of them do it because they raise the rabbit for its fur, and then make fur garments for themselves as well as to sell to their neighbors and friends.
Selecting the Stock
Having made up your mind in a definite way to raise rabbits, your next move is in the selection of stock. This is the second of the basic fundamentals. Our advice is GET THE BEST. It is far better to invest in one or two of the best specimens than a dozen common rabbits known as “scrubs.” It costs no more to raise the good ones. You will find it much more profitable to produce and sell stock raised from a few of the best kind, than you would if you were raising plenty of the common ones. PEOPLE ALWAYS WANT THE BEST their money can buy and that is where you will ALWAYS FIND A READY MARKET. In purchasing your stock, you will act wisely if you get them from established breeders who sell registered stock, or those eligible to register. These breeders are always willing to help the novice with profitable advice, which means a whole lot to a new beginner. If possible, buy registered animals, as that kind of rabbit stands for quality and “quality always counts” in valuation then your sales will be profitable in every instance because of your guarantee of “quality” backed up by registration certificates. If you are not sufficiently acquainted with the rabbit world to know who is raising registered stock and is reliable, an inquiry addressed to the Secretary of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association will bring the necessary information to you. It is also well to bear in mind to buy rabbits from a breeder in good standing with one or more of the rabbit associations because in the case of dissatisfaction or unfair dealing, it is much easier to
remedy through an association’s secretary acting as intermediary than be-tween the parties themselves when it looks like as if they cannot come to an agreement, or that one party has taken advantage of the other. Mi. understandings are cleared up that way, and it creates a better feeling between all interested parties and protects the welfare of the industry as well.
Let us agree that you have the best stock to start in with. Now we will proceed further.
In other words, taking care of the stock must be a source of pleasure to you and not tiresome and boresome. If it does not afford joy and satis-faction, there is something wrong with YOU; for having the right kind of stock at the start there cannot be anything wrong with them. Then the fault is on YOUR side and it is time for you to ask yourself the question “Do I love rabbits?'’ Decide whether you do or do not. If you do, then it is all right—Go ahead! You’ll soon get to like it. But if you don’t love rabbits, then the sooner you get out of the business the better it will be for you and for the industry. Bear this in mind, as it is a lesson you should well learn. There is JUST ONE WAY in which to do a thing if you want to SUCCEED and that is THE RIGHT WAY. Care-lessness and indifference are allied with failure. Take care you don’t ally yourself with these weaknesses.
A world of experience in the raising of rabbits could here be related showing many ups and downs. For your guidance, we will but mention one or two instances, thus you may profit by them and avoid such errors and failure. Hired help can not always be depended upon. Some of them are careless and indifferent, and we will tell you how these fellows place their jobs in jeopardy.
Cause of Failure. This is where a man is hired; he works like a machine. He goes from hutch to hutch and places the same quantity of feed and water in every hutch without the slightest consideration as to how many rabbits there are in each compartment. This man simply thinks of “feeding’’ and “watering” and he doesn’t stop to consider that two, three, four or more rabbits in a hutch should have more feed and water than where there is one rabbit only. Again, he treats a doe with a
litter the same. All he knows and all he wants to know is that he is
through with feeding and watering the stock and the quicker it is done,
the better he is satisfied. He doesn’t love animals; he thinks to himself
a rabbit is a rabbit, and that’s all he cares about. He fails to understand that a rabbit can get hungry and thirsty; he doesn’t think that a doe with a litter of youngsters needs extra care; he doesn’t think that a mother doe
(Courtesy Roy A. Green)
You Must Have a Love for Rabbits
must have plenty of bedding, additional feed, etc. Oh no! that sort of attendant has his mind on quitting time and “pay day,” and that day can never come soon enough for him. He thinks of the money, and never thinks of what service he has rendered for his pay and whether he earned it or not. That fellow would like to have 365 pay days every year and “everything else can go to the dogs,” as it were. Can you imagine a fellow like that? We can, we not only imagine it, but we know there are such men. A good many of them wonder why they do not succeed. It takes but a little bit of common sense to know why, it is because they ignore the fundamentals of success and are always “laying down on their job.” These are the kind of fellows that rabbit industry can do without; they do more harm than good to the general well-being of the business. They are better “out” than “in.” Moral—Take heed of what this lesson teaches. It needs no further comment.
No doe should be bred until she is 8 months old, and no buck should be used for service till he is of the same age. This is the belief and practice generally in rabbitdom, though there are a few breeders here and there who believe that a doe can be bred at a younger age. That may be so, but if you want healthy and the best of stock, the best policy to pursue is the 8-months-old, so far as the breeding age of the rabbits is concerned. Few rabbits mature under 8 months of age. The smaller breeds can be bred at 4 to 6 months of age.
After service, the doe is due to litter in thirty days. At the time she should have plenty of feed and water before her, also provide for her a nice warm box with plenty of hay or other nesting material. See that she is properly attended in this respect. Should the litter consist of more than six, it is advisable to give the surplus above six to a nurse doe if you have so provided; if not, then it will pay you to see what kind of a litter there is, and cull out the weaklings and destroy them. If your doe has six youngsters to care for, that is plenty, as you can then expect her to raise them nicely and in healthy and growing condition. Don’t think you are losing money in getting rid of surplus. You are not; it is much better to raise five or six good youngsters than to raise more than that of weaklings which will never amount to anything, and perhaps give you a lot of trouble. Moral—Raise few, then you raise the best.
You always like to see a clean home, don’t you? We all do. Well, your rabbits also need a “clean home,’’ and as they are unable to do it themselves, that is YOUR JOB and it should be done at least once a week, all the better if you can do it two or three times. It only takes a few minutes to do this each time; will not only be beneficial to the health of your stock, but will give you credit as well for attending to such an important matter in the welfare of your business.
When one considers the tremendous importance of the rabbit in relation to the commercial life of our nation, especially by way of food and for fur, THERE IS A BIG FUTURE FOR THE RABBIT. As you grow in the business you will learn more and more in this connection all of the time, which should spur you on to greater ambition so as to help develop one of the BIGGEST COMMERCIAL ENTERPRISES IN THE FUTURE OF AMERICA. We refer to the RABBIT INDUSTRY. Space forbids us to go into the “why’’ and the “wherefore’’ of it at this time. However, as we have said, every day you are in the business will give you a broader vision as to the potentialities of the enterprise. Stick to it—in time, you’ll find it a bigger thing than you ever dreamed of.
In seeking and working for success you mind should be centered on
the industry, then you will be working for the interest of others as well as for your own—which makes it better for everybody. You should contribute an article once in a while to your local newspaper and other publications. Publicity in that connection will bear a whole lot of weight for
A Very Good Shipping Crate
the future success of the industry, and indirectly you benefit as well by reason of giving such publicity. This is an advertising age, and every well-written article telling of actual experiences with rabbits will do much to influence other people to raise rabbits.
Be fair, square, open and above board at all times; be true to yourself. The policy of success is one of right doing. You will find that the industry will offer its drawbacks, but that is not due to any wilful misconduct or such like on the part of some breeders, but rather due to ignorance or lack of knowledge as to the proper thing to do. If you do
(Courtesy Orrin S. Cole)
White Flemish Doe
all you can to help others as well as look after your own interests you will be surpised at the wonderful progressive influence it bears, and being genera] in its application will mean a great deal for the welfare of the rabbit industry in general.
To the novice we repeat GET THE BEST THAT MONEY CAN BUY. Insist that you know the age, weight and quality of the stock you are buying. If you are not familiar with the standard requirements for proper specimens, all you have to do is to write to the Secretary of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, who will supply you with necessary information as to Standards, etc., of each of the various breeds. A RIGHT START IS HALF WAY TO SUCCESS.
In all of your business dealings whether buying or selling, be true. Mis-statements lead to misunderstanding and sometimes lots of trouble. All of this can be avoided by being true to yourself and true to the other fellow. Don’t forget to use the advertising columns of publications when you want to buy or sell stock. Publicity in that connection is worth lots to your business success. By advertising your name is known in all parts of the country, whereas, if you confine your business and your sales locally, you may not get so far ahead, so always figure to add some publicity to your business as occasion may require in branching out. Of course, you must not neglect to advertise in your own locals. Very often a breeder can establish a mighty fine business in his town and make the enterprise just as large as he wants to. THAT IS UP TO YOU. If at first you do not find ready sales in your city or town, or other place where you are located, don’t conclude hastily that people don’t want rabbits. The fact is, they need education up to the fact as to the UTILITY OF THE RABBIT. Your business is to do that educating. Before you started raising rabbits, others had to educate you to the possibilities of the business. Now it’s your turn to EDUCATE OTHER PEOPLE and thereby create your own markets, locally or otherwise. Tell the folk all about rabbits—what nice eating they make and what nice fur garments the skins can be used for. If you feel like it, arrange to have space in one of the local stores, display some meat rabbits, offer some rabbit sandwiches; also display furs. In this way, you will surely create lots of local sentiment in favor of the rabbit, and you will be surprised how many sales you can make. It will keep you busy for quite a long while to raise the stock to take care of the demand. This is no idle fancy; this is REAL EXPERIENCE; THEY ARE FACTS, and we are telling them to you so that YOU CAN PROFIT THEREBY.
In selecting breeding stock, the beginner as well as the experienced breeder should consider the previous record of the rabbit to be bought. If the doe has a bad record, such as giving birth to only two or three young, or if she has failed or refused to breed as she should, she would be a poor doe to select to breed from. Some does may have several young and fail to raise them for some cause or other. They may form the habit of eating them when born, or may be careless and sit on them and kill them. It is not a question of how many young the doe may have, but how many she raises that counts. It is absolutely necessary to secure breeding stock that has a good previous record, in order to have any success in the rabbit industry.
Selecting the breeding stock for a rabbitry is a very interesting part of the business. One should know the different points of a rabbit according to the standard for the breed selected. If the beginner is not familiar with these different points, he should secure a grade card from some good authority and study the different points until he has learned them well and can recognize these different points, or qualifications, when he sees them. He should be able to recognize the disqualifications as well. If the beginner does not think he is qualified to judge a rabbit, it is advisable for him to take someone with him that is qualified. There are many commercial breeders that are perfectly reliable and trustworthy, and will help the beginner to select just what he wants. Then there are others who will take advantage of the beginner’s inexperience and endeavor to sell him poor stock, the does he doesn’t want to keep himself. There are probably as many dishonest and unscrupulous men in the rabbit industry as in any
other line of business. Therefore it is advisable to investigate the reputa tion of the breeders before purchasing.
In selecting the breeding stock, always remember that “like begets like.” If one wants large bone, then select the largest-boned rabbit available. If you want short, chunky bodies, then select one of that type. The different breeds have their different points of standard. So in selecting the breeding stock one should select for as near the standard as possible. The perfect rabbit has never been attained. In judging rabbits, 100 points is considered the ideal, the same as in larger animals. The grade card previously referred to will show you the number of points allowed for each qualification. These qualifications are only necessary in rabbits for show purposes, or fancy stock. In selecting for utility purposes, one needs to select only for the purpose desired, i. e., if you want meat rabbits, select for quick vigorous growth. One may want certain markings in the fur and this can sometimes be attained by line breeding. It is advisable for the beginner to start with only one breed and stick to it until he has learned how to raise that breed successfully.
A rabbit breeder should be familiar with the terms used in the rabbit industry. A pure bred rabbit is one that has been bred for at least eight generations in a definite line, and with a well kept record of its ancestors. Thorough-bred is sometimes used in live stock of all kinds, such as cattle, sheep, hogs, etc., but it really means a running horse, that is, a race horse, while standard bred means a race horse of trotting stock. Therefore neither of these words would be proper in speaking of rabbits. Pure bred is the better word. Cross breeding means the mating of two different breeds. This is often resorted to where the breeder has some certain object in view, and sometimes results in very desirable characteristics. But the beginner is not advised to resort to cross breeding if he is after any definite results. Cross bred rabbits are not eligible to registry.
In inbreeding, closely related individuals are mated. Such as father to daughter or mother to son. It is inadvisable to mate sister with brother as the offspring is liable to be weak, besides any defects are likely to be increased. Inbreeding is line breeding in the extreme.
“Line breeding is the mating of closely related lines of descent.'' The object of line breeding is to establish a certain strain, better than their ancestors, if possible. This is the method used in improving all lines of animals, live stock, poultry, etc. Individuals are mated to attain certain points or characteristics, with the object of obtaining a better strain of that particular breed. The points desired are to be selected for, and the undesirable points are to be bred out. Always select strong, healthy stock for line breeding, as weak stock, which is never desirable, will manifest itself in line breeding, or inbreeding, much more rapidly than in stock that are not related.
It is advisable for one starting in the rabbit industry to visit shows and all the different rabbitries he can. He will learn many things in regard to breeding, selecting for different points and the care and feeding of rabbits.
In breeding rabbits, it is necessary to know when the doe is ready for service. This can generally be known by the doe stamping the floor, jumping about the hutch in a restless manner and the sexual organs become swollen and reddish in color.
The larger breeds should not be bred under 7 to 8 months of age, 8 is better. It is not advisable to breed young does the first few times they come in, as some will take the buck at a very early age, sometimes as early as four or five months. Better wait until they have attained their maturity if you expect the best results from them. The smaller breeds can be safely bred at from 6 to 7 months of age. The buck should not be used until he is 6 or 7 months old. In breeding rabbits too young the offspring are likely to be weaklings. Besides in breeding does too young you are likely to have trouble in getting them to conceive. The young buck should
not be used more than two or three times the first month. Then not oftener than once a week for a month or so. After this he should never be used oftener than three times a week. Always take the doe to the buck’s hutch. Never take the buck to the doe’s hutch. She is more likely to fight in her own hutch than in others. When taking the doe to the buck’s hutch, place her on the floor and watch her closely. If she runs about and tries to get away from the buck or hugs the floor remove her at once and try her again the next day and the next if necessary. Some bucks are mean to fight the doe if they are not ready for service and some does will fight the buck. For this reason it is necessary to watch them both to prevent injury. The periodic interval for breeding is from three to five days. If the doe is in heat, service will take place immediately, the buck will fall over on his side or back. The doe should be removed at once. One service is sufficient. Babbits should not be bred during the hot summer months. Very hot weather affects rabbits especially when bred. Never have more than six young to the doe. She has only eight teats and can not nurse but eight. If she has more than this number some of them will have to go without their dinner, consequently will not be strong and vigorous as they should. They will also fail to grow as rapidly as they should at this time. If they are stunted for lack of nourishment at first, they will never attain the size and strength that they would if given a good start in life at first. Four young are better than six for most does. Some does, like cows, give more milk than others. For this reason some does will nurse eight young and bring them through in good shape while others will do better with four.
The period of gestation is 30 or 31 days. The doe should not be allowed to get too fat and should be kept quiet after breeding. Do not allow anything near her hutch that will frighten her. Children romping and playing should never be allowed near the hutch. Dogs, especially, should never be allowed near a rabbit hutch. The rabbit is a very timid animal and dogs are their natural enemy. Even though the dog be a pet, the rabbit doesn’t know it and is naturally afraid of them. If you have a doe that has more than six, and one that kindles about the same time that has less than six you can use her as a foster mother. If one is raising pedigreed rabbits, he will have to keep track of the little ones so distributed. Sometimes it pays to kill all the young from In handling the young for any reason, one should always rub his hands on the fur of the mother or the foster mother, as the case may be, to get her scent, before touching the young. The young begin to nibble the feed with their mother at about one month of age and may be placed in the weaning pen at 7 to 8 weeks of age. It is not advisable to wean the rabbits too soon after breeding the doe. Wait six or seven days before taking them from her. If taken away too soon, it tends to upset her at this time, which should be avoided.
A well kept record should be kept of every breeding rabbit and those you intend to sell as breeding stock. One can secure pedigree blanks from any rabbit publishing house for this purpose. A hutch record should be kept on every doe’s hutch. These record cards have columns for: the buck served, date served, date tested, date kindled, number of young, date weaned and remarks, as well as the hutch number, ear number, name, size, dam, date bom, and breed of the doe. It is necessary to keep these Hutch Record Cards on every hutch and mark them properly at the proper time if you expect to make a success of the rabbit industry.
White New Zealand
By A. Weygandt Green Food
There is so much said and written on the subject of Feeding Rabbits it often is very confusing to the beginner as the more he reads on the subject, the more confusing statements he will see and all from seemingly well experienced breeders.
One will suggest green food; another states he would feed green food under no conditions, etc.
When we find conflicting statements like the above the beginner should just go “fifty fifty” and feed a little green food, but feed sparingly. Do not throw enough green food in the hutch to do for three or four days and think your rabbits will thrive on this system of feeding for they will not.
A little green food or roots two or three times a week is very beneficial to either breeding stock or growing youngsters, but should be given in quantities that they can clean up in 15 or 20 minutes and it should be fresh and not frosted or frozen. Dandelions are fine in early spring and summer and the Giant variety can be grown and cultivated and a large amount of feed can be produced on a small plot of ground.
Giant Chicory is another valuable green food which can be cultivated and can be grown from the seed and is a perennial plant and hardy.
From early fall on through the winter carrots, both tops and roots, are a valuable food and those two can be grown by the breeder. Sow in rows very thick and after tops get up eight or ten inches high commence to pull and feed, thinning your rows until a suitable number of plants are left to produce good sized carrots for winter feeding. Cauliflower leaves are also good, but cabbage leaves a very offensive smell in the hutches.
Hay and Grain
Hay and oats if obtainable should be your main feed for breeders and youngsters after three or four months of age and if oats cannot be secured barley is the next best grain food and can be fed either whole or crushed, but prefer the crushed for growing youngsters.
The great mistake most beginners make in feeding grain is that they feed too heavily, getting their breeding does too fat, resulting in a dis-
appointment in expected litters. Many producing no youngsters and those that do only a few in a litter and not possessing the strength and vigor they should, resulting in a large percentage of losses and the beginner naturally gets discouraged, blaming the rabbits, when in fact the cause is his “over kindness” in his feeding.
No definite rule can be laid down as to the amount of grain to feed, as individuals of the same breed differ so much in their requirements.
When you place grain in your feed crocks and it is not all consumed at the next feeding time, pass this crock up until the next time. If grain is untouched you had better stop and examine the animal carefully for the chances are “something is wrong.”
I prefer feeding breeding and matured stock once a day preferably in the evening as the rabbit is a nocturnal animal and is more active during the night and will enjoy its feed at this time and naturally the results will be better than if fed during the day as this is when rabbits enjoy their rest.
Breeding does and youngsters require more feed and should be fed night and morning. Hay can be kept before them all the time.
A balanced ration consists of five main compounds: Protein, Carbohydrates, Fat, Mineral Salts, and the important Vitamins. The carbohydrates contain the carbon and hydrogen and hydrogen is one of the two parts of water. Two parts hydrogen and one part oxygen mixed together is what you have in water.
This is the reason you should give your rabbits plenty of pure fresh water. The oxygen in the water is used by the body and helps to maintain the necessary heat. The proteins are the muscle builders. The fats help to make tissue and keep the machinery oiled. The mineral matter also goes to all parts of the body, being carried by the blood to the nerves, muscles and bones, etc.
There are three kinds of vitamins. One is dissolvable in water, one in oil, and the other is dissolvable in either water or oil or both. They are necessary to assimilate the food eaten and to eliminate the waste matter thrown off.
If the organs of the body are in a healthy condition they will get rid of all poisonous waste and they will be in a healthy condition if the animal is fed and cared for properly. So the way to keep your stock healthy is to feed good wholesome grain and hay and give plenty of fresh pure water.
Oats comes nearer than any other grain in furnishing a perfect diet for rabbits according to the analysis, but rabbits like a change as well as ourselves.
Following is the analysis of good oats:
Protein or Flesh Formers.....................15.1%
Fat or Oil................................... 5.9%
Heat Formers ................................46.9%
Bone Formers ................................. 1.9%
Husk or Fibre................................20.4%
Water ........................................ 9.8%
As I stated before if you cannot secure oats, barley will make a good substitute but if both can be had it is well to feed alternately, thus giving a change.
In regard to hay the main object in securing hay for your stock is to see that it is sweet and free from must or mold and keep this in mind rather than the kind you use. Good sweet green alfalfa or clover is to be chosen if same can be secured but I would prefer plain timothy if good rather than musty alfalfa or clover.
Analysis of Barley:
Protein or Flesh Former.....................10.9%
Fat and Oil................................. 1.9%
Heat Former ................................60.2%
Bone Former ................................ 1.9%
Husk and Fibre..............................14.2%
Water ......................................10.9%
Courtesy Mrs. J. A. French
Chinchilla Buck Feeding Breeding Does
As I stated before, keep your breeding does in a good healthy condition but do not get them over fat. About a week before time to kindle give them a “milk sop” once a day if available (break a little bread in a dish and pour a little sweet milk over it), then after the youngsters are born keep this up along with the other feed and when the youngsters commence to leave the nest set a crock of rolled oats in the hutch for their little stomachs are not capable of digesting hard grains yet and if allowed to eat solid foods too early indigestion will result and your trouble begins.
If you cannot furnish your doe milk sops commence about a week before time to kindle and give a little green food each day or carrots so as to have the milk ready for the youngsters when they arrive.
Now that the doe has her litter feed her twice daily and keep oatmeal before the youngsters at all times and at weaning time continue to feed the youngsters twice daily giving either rolled oats or crushed barley or better both alternately along with good alfalfa and roots or green food if available, also whole oats can be given at this time as a change occasion ally.
Mashes are fed by many rabbit breeders who care to take the time and trouble to mix them up and should not be made the same at all times as there are several different methods of making a mash.
Bran and barley meal, bran and middlings, bran and clover meal and house scraps and ground oats may be included for a variety. Clean household scraps included in the mash are relished by the stock and gives them a change, potato peelings, etc.
Following is a good mash formula.
Two quarts ground alfalfa, place in bucket and cover with boiling water (not too much water). Let set for three or four hours. Then stir into a crumbly mass the following:
1 hand full Beet Pulp
2 hands full Wheat Bran
3 hands full Rolled Oats or Ground Oats
1 hand full Oil Meal
If too dry add a little more water but aim to feed in a dry crumbly mass just so it will stick together (not wet).
Here is another successful mash:
Ground Corn ................................25 lbs.
Ground Oats ................................25 lbs.
Ground Barley ..............................15 lbs.
Bran .......................................20 lbs.
Shorts .....................................15 lbs.
Horse Alfalfa ..............................15 lbs.
Oil Meal ................................... 3 lbs.
If stock is not accustomed to mashes it is necessary to feed sparingly at the start or looseness of the bowels will result.
In conclusion I wish to say that if your stock is healthy and in good condition do not worry about changing your feed. Let good enough alone. One section of the country may have a certain grain or hay in quantity and about all there is available for the breeder to secure for his stock. If your stock thrives on this by all means do not go to the expense and trouble of having food shipped in from outside points.
By Edw. H. Stahl and James Bunt
There are many things that enter into the success of any and every kind of enterprise—no matter what it is—and, when it comes to rabbits it has precisely the same bearing.
Unquestionably one of the foremost thoughts entering the mind of the prospective rabbit breeder—as well as almost every rabbit breeder of the present, is the matter of good stock. That appears to be a most salient consideration—and rightly so. However, that’s but one only of the success essentials.
What’s another important one, you may ask? RIGHT HOUSING, of course. Yes, it’s mighty important—and just as necessary as it is for a human being to live out of the slums and an unhealthy neighborhood, into some worth while healthy quarter, WHERE THERE IS PLENTY OF ROOM and AN OPEN AVENUE OF FRESH AIR and of that MASTER-
PIECE OF SANITATION—namely, SUNSHINE. Good stock with every chance of MAKING THE BEST accompanied by the above mentioned FEATURES OF IMPORTANCE will give the rabbit breeder every opportunity of MAKING GOOD.
Well! You may say it’s all very well to talk about it—but TELL us what you mean by THE PROPER HOUSING OF RABBITS.
That’s what we’ll start in doing—right now, because it is the chief aim of this article to not only give you our opinion, but to tell you of our experiences after years of actual daily contact with rabbits.
Do you get that? If not, read that headline over again. We want to convert you on that proposition—then we’ll know that you’ll read the following with eagerness and with a desire to learn what is meant by PROPER HOUSING, so that you may benefit therefrom. At least, we hope so.
For years, the question of GOOD STOCK has been the prime consideration of animal breeders—but, let us assure you that the ONE GREAT THING to go HAND IN HAND with GOOD STOCK is PROPER HOUSING. Pardon us using that term so often, but—it is done for the sole purpose of DRIVING THAT IMPORTANT THOUGHT INTO YOUR MIND so that it will remain there and cause you to actuate your muscular powers into building PROPER HOUSES if your stock are not already in effective health-giving kind of hutches. Get that? We hope so.
There are some breeders who commence with GOOD STOCK but use POOR HOUSING—while there are others who have GOOD HOUSING but start in with POOR STOCK. No matter which way it is in either of these connections—BOTH ARE WRONG—and there’s but ONE WAY and ONE WAY ONLY to start raising rabbits and to CONTINUE in the business— that is, START WITH GOOD STOCK and HAVE GOOD HOUSING—then YOU’VE STARTED RIGHT on the ROAD TO SUCCESS in the RABBIT BUSINESS.
In a letter recently received at our office from one of the oldest and authoritative rabbit judges in the United States—he says:
“There are people who do not hesitate to pay $25.00 each for their breeding stock—who, on the other hand, do not think to spend enough to house the stock as it should be housed.”
Get the point? It’s just as unwise to invest in good stock and have poor housing accommodation for your rabbits, as it is to start in with poor stock and to house them in good hutches. GOOD STOCK AND GOOD HOUSING MUST GO HAND IN HAND TO MAKE HEADWAY IN THE BUSINESS. Spend good money for good stock and spend good money for good hutches, then you’re wise.
The comments made by the said judge are true. We know of a good many cases where we have seen good stock housed in small makeshift hutches—dry goods boxes, as it were—too small to afford proper exercising for the stock. Under such poor housing conditions, there’s but one result —that is, the running down of stock in health in a very short time—-stunted stock so far as growth is concerned—runty—diseased—lop eared, crippled rabbits. Some breeders, housing their rabbits under these undesirable conditions, wonder why they fail to make a success in the business —wonder why their stock doesn’t “make good.” Why wonder, when the fault is the faulty housing? It couldn’t be otherwise. IMPROPER HOUSING IS THE CHIEF CAUSE OF THESE FAILURES—and, we regret to say so, nevertheless it’s a fact, that there are TOO MANY rabbit
breeders today who come under the above category—shame to say it—but FACTS ARE FACTS, and we must speak of them as we find them, what say you? The truth shouldn’t hurt anybody, should it? POOR HOUSING is one of the chief reasons why there are so many failures in the rabbit business. If these breeders housed their rabbits in proper quarters, they would HIT THE TRAIL OF SUCCESS and positively succeed. Read on! because we are going to tell you what we mean by PROPER HOUSING OF RABBITS—then you can measure your own rabbitry about such ESSENTIAL requirements—and, if yours do not correspond therewith—or, approximately so, that may be the real reason why some of you are failing to produce the stock that should make you money. If you have stock of proper breeding—if you give the rabbits the proper care and attention— then, if you fail, more than likely the hutches are wrongly constructed— or, there’s something wrong with them, somehow, somewhere.
Take particular note of the measurements—as they play an important part in this consideration.
In making these suggestions we wish to state, the more room you can give your rabbits—the better.
For the smaller breeds such as the Havanas—Chinchillas—Dutch Himalayan—and such like, the SMALLEST HUTCH should be 2 1/2 feet deep—3 1/2 feet long—and, 18 inches high; for New Zealand Reds— American Blues—White Beverens and other breeds of MEDIUM size, the hutch should not be under 2 1/2 feet deep—4 feet long—and 20 inches high; for Flemish Giants and other large breeds the hutch should be not less than 3 feet—5 feet long and 24 inches high.
The above dimensions afford the smallest measurements for hutch construction—but, it would be far better if you made them two feet longer (acording to breed) it would have its advantages, which will be explained in the next section.
Hutches constructed as per above sizes afford ample room for breeding does—and for bucks. However, for does with young and which are kept with the mother till the youngsters are 8 weeks old or older, we would suggest larger size hutches than above described, so as to give the young plenty of scope for exercise—as, we must remember, that given the facility for growing while in their youth period—as it were, the youngsters will grow mighty fast; given insufficient space, they will get stunted right at the start, and fail to make even an average specimen. Bear these things in mind.
There’s no question about it—that, the bigger the hutches the better it will be for the rabbits. What we mean is this. Rabbits kept in hutches as above described will do all right; still, experience has taught us, that even larger quarters will enable the rabbits to do all the better. In other words, YOU GET BEST RESULTS FROM LARGE ACCOMMODATING HUTCHES.
There are times when breeders observe that their rabbits lose their appetite,—the stock won’t eat, or fail to eat the quantity of food that is necessary to their well-being. You begin to wonder why. You think of everything else but forget about “cramped housing quarters.” In nine cases out of ten, a rabbit that falls down on eating ability is due to
the fact of acute indigestion, due to inefficient housing—failure of the necessary room for proper exercise so as to allow the food to properly assimilate and digest in the rabbit. In order to get best results from any and every food (whether with man or beast) there must (at least) be a certain amount of NECESSARY physical exercise to help the to properly function in the body. If you find your stock “out of con dition,” at times failing to eat the grain or hay, or other tempting feed, remember it is quite likely to be due to “improper housing.” Look into it for it’s worth an investigation, to say the least, as it may solve your problem.
Most of our breeding hutches are 30x48 inches and 20 inches high.
On the average, rabbits do well in such quarters—still, constipation occurs
at times with the stock in these hutches—but, when the rabbits are weaned they are put into hutches 3 feet by 6 feet, and 24 inches high. Here is where they make rapid growth. In fact, after weaning they grow very fast because they have AMPLE ROOM for exercise—they LENGTHEN OUT and PUT ON WEIGHT quite RAPIDLY and RETAIN HEALTH AND VIGOR—and THRIVE—therefore making the BEST OF RABBITS. Why? Simply because we HOUSE THEM PROPERLY, espe-cially AFTER THEY ARE WEANED. Get the point? If you are not succeeding in bringing up your rabbits to efficiency—THERE’S A REASON —maybe, faulty hutches—INVESTIGATE!
There are many different kinds and types of hutches ’tis true, per haps we don’t see two alike, when it comes to visiting different rabbitries —that is, the physical appearance, as it were. After all, when it comes to dimensions, we find so many so nearly alike in size. Hence, it is hard to describe one hutch that will meet all requirements in all sections of the country, and in all climates. All one can do, is to afford information as to dimensions of “rooming space”—then with regard to contending against the factors of weather elements, the breeder will have to look into that part of it himself.
In recent years we have noted that more hutches have been built in tiers of two and three high—usually, facing south with the three other sides closed. This has become very popular with breeders especially by those who have raised rabbits for years. Taking all in all—and with our years of experience, we do believe that the tier system of hutching rabbits is one of the best—if not the best, and will meet with the requirements in all sections of the country—also in Canada. Of course, roof—shade—and other such other factors against direct sun rays—rains —storms, etc., have to have local solution by the breeder himself. However, he’ll soon solve that part of the housing once he gets settled down on the matter of dimensions of each hutch, the tier proposition, and other such important factors covered in this writing.
The reason for facing hutches to the south is because it admits of the best kind of ventilation—which is HEALTH GIVING at all times of the year. In the summer, the sun is a most wonderful disinfectant. This does not mean that your hutches should be so located that the hot sun’s rays should shine directly in them—not so—but the effect of the rays, as the air that strikes and enters the hutches should be the air that passes “through” the sun’s rays, thereby modified temperature-pure warm air, yet not too hot—simply a wave of fresh—breezy—healthgiving atmosphere. Of course, this refers to hutches that are on the outside—as this condition cannot obtain where hutches are kept inside of a building. Therefore, we recommend, that as far as possible (consistent with the usual weather elements of the locality) that you build
your rabbit hutches on the outside—facing south—preferably two or three tiers high—shaded from the direct rays of the sun.
Yes—the tier system of rabbit housing affords the breeder with small space to make it possible for him to raise lots of rabbits. Having the hutches two or three high, enables him to raise three rabbits to the other’s one, who as a single tier and the same amount of ground used for the hutches. Therefore, bear this tier sytem in mind, and you’ll then raise more rabbits than you otherwise would (in a limited space) you have but one tier of hutches only. Build three high where you can.
There are a few features that should not be overlooked in the build
ing of hutches. For instance, presuming you are interested in the hutch
described, there are some things that might enter into it which would
make it uncomfortable for stock at certain times of the year. This is what we mean—consider the top row of hutches—those right under the roof. When it is really hot, rabbits cannot exist under those conditions in the said top tier of hutches—BUT—this is overcome and you can keep the rabbits in the top hutch all year round—IF you will build your roof about 8 to 12 inches above the top (roof) of the top tier of hutches. That is, there should be an air space of about 8 to 12 inches between the top tier of hutches and the roof. Get the point? The air coming in this space VENTILATES AND COOLS the top tier of hutches and you are safe in keeping your rabbits there throughout the year—BUT, if you fail to make this air space between the top of the highest tier and the roof, you will have to take the rabbits out of the top tier of hutches, otherwise your stock will die. While you are building your hutches bear this IMPORTANT FEATURE in mind and build the air-space. It won’t take you any longer—will cost no more and it will permit you to keep your stock safely in the top hutches throughout the year without any fear of stock dying during hot weather. YOU MUST CONSIDER PROPER VENTILATION OF HUTCHES IF YOU WANT TO SUCCEED IN THE RABBIT BUSINESS. Don’t overlook that point.
There are quite a number of types of self-cleaning hutches in use —many of them seem to give entire satisfaction. These hutches are built in a number of different ways. We will try to explain some of them.
First: There is one kind where the floors are built sloping towards the front—a fall of about one inch to the foot will carry off the refuse that collects in the hutches. Then there is the style that slopes toward the back for 24 inches—then a screen netting is used (3/4 inch mesh) which is right at the back about the length of the hutch and 8 to 12 inches in width. Underneath there is galvanized metal sloping—thus, the refuse falling between the netting—falls on the slope, and from the slope falls out on the ground at the back of the hutch. Of course, this means that there is an opening at the back to allow of the waste to fall off on the ground. Some people are inclined to believe that this causes a draft to go up through the netting into the hutch. Our experience has found this not to be so—but, after all, it is always safe to play “safety first” whenever and wherever possible, so for those who “fear” this draft entering the hutch from underneath the netting, we suggest that
you close up the back opening by a piece of board—same size as the opening—hinged to the hutch, which would be swung open at the time you want to clean out the refuse which has fallen through the netting on to the galvanized metal. In summer this back opening can be kept open by hooking the traphatch or door—then, in winter, release the hook and the door will close up the opening where the refuse comes through.
NON SELF CLEANING HUTCHES Where rabbits are raised in this kind of hutch we believe it is advisable to clean the floors at least twice a week. If you can get sawdust from a nearby planing mill or other place—do so, spread it on the floor of the hatch—it will absorbe the moisture and make the cleaning all the easier. Hutch floors of this kind should be cleaned at least twice a week. Dirty hutch floors means accumulation of filth—a nesting place for germs—consequently infected animals with ear canker—footrot—sore hock, and so many of the other diseases found in some rabbitries. A WELL BRUSHED OUT—WELL SCRAPED—WELL CLEANED—WELL VENTILATED and WELL DISINFECTED HUTCH will keep your stock HEALTHY three hundred and sixty-five days in the year—plus one extra day, every fourth year. Some use the slat bottom for self-cleaning hutches which does very nicely. Slats are 1 1/2 inches wide and set 3/8 to 1/2 inch apart leaving there openings for the droppings to fall through.
OUTDOOR VS. INDOOR RABBITRIES While it is true that rabbits can be raised successfully on the inside of buildings as well as in outside rabbitries, we believe that the outdoor rabbits on the whole make the best specimens, and are getting more into favor all the time. There is no question in our mind that the outdoor raised specimens are the most hardy—have a better coat—are much healthier—and remain so under all conditions. This same finding is also arrived at by many other breeders of experience who have raised rabbits on the inside and on the outside. Again, outdoor raised stock is all the better for sale purposes, as most people who start raising rabbits keep the stock bn the outside, and, if they have outdoor raised stock to start in with, and keep the rabbits that way, they are in for success—whereas, if they buy rabbits that are raised on the inside, and keep them on the outside, there is every likelihood of the stock dying, thus a disappointed breeder who quits the rabbit business for good. However, we do not say that rabbits should not be raised indoors—but, if they are be sure that the stock has plenty of ventilation—that there are open windows and doors—and lots of fresh air—with the chance of sunshine able to peep in to greet the rabbits once in a while. They’ll appreciate it, sure enough as you will see them back in the rays of the little sunshine they are able to get that way. However, do not make the mistake of raising rabbits in an artificially heated building. If you do, you make hot-house stock out of them, and they will not survive in any other atmospheric condition. Taking all in all, we are strong believers and advocates in the outdoor raised rabbits. This animal is a natural outdoor animal, anyway —and nature has endowed the rabbit with one of the best comforts there is to give warmth—that is fur, hence this hardy animal can stand all sorts of cold weather, and do well under such conditions. Of course, in extremely cold weather, you could place a nest-box in the hutch with some bedding (prairie-hay or some such stuff) so that the rabbit can get away from the extreme cold once in a while, and perhaps take its “forty winks’’ when it feels like resting.
THE YARD SYSTEM OF RAISING RABBITS There are a few breeders who raise rabbits by turning them loose on the ground—which is commonly known as “Pastured Rabbits’’ or the “Yard System.’’ We do not think this is a successful method at
all, and do not advise that stock be raised that way unless one is raising them for meat only. This is perhaps well in dry climates, but it is impractical and well nigh impossible to make a success of this system of rabbit raising where the country is damp, as your stock is bound to have colds—snuffles—pneumonia, and hosts of other trouble. Of course, it can be done and carried out successfully in dry climates—and those who are so located and wish to raise rabbits in quantity for meat purposes can do so, and stand a chance for success. However, even if you do adopt this system, we would suggest that you use slatted floors, so as to keep the rabbits off the ground—these kind of floors also allow waste to fall through on to the ground, thus keeping the rabbits free from becoming dirty and infested with filth and dirt which would germinate disease. To sum it up, we don’t advocate the Yard System unless you are truly converted to it, and are so established and located and really know how to take care of the stock under such difficult raising conditions.
Yard System
When building hutches, consider the point of having built in feed racks. A good one can be made by using two 10-inch boards between hutches cut a round hole in it near the top of each hutch, and on the inside provide a pocket made out of one-inch mesh poultry wire. In this way, you can feed your stock hay or alfalfa from the outside—feeding two hutches at the same time, and it’s a feed saver, too.
Never raise rabbits unless you have them protected against dogs, who seem to be the natural enemies of rabbits. Many breeders have had the sad experience of dogs visiting their rabbitries and losing valuable stock thereby. It is well to construct your hutches so that they are protected against dogs—and, as an extra precaution build a guard fence around the building that houses your stock. This is an added expense, of course, but it may mean the salvation of your rabbits—because dogs will ferret out rabbits, and unless you have your stock proof against dogs’ invasion, you may regret it some day. “Prevention is better than cure” even if it means a little added expense.
Furthermore, a fence is quite useful and practical in the case of a
rabbit getting out of the hutches, which will happen once in a while, by one forgetting to put over the fastener on the door, or some other cause. Thus, if your rabbit should get out while you are away, there is no fear of it being lost, as it is within the confines of the fense, and naturally,
Courtesy Edwin H. Stahl
Outside Hutches
you will be able to catch it, whereas, if you don’t have a fence, you stand the chance of losing rabbits that accidently get out while you are absent from the rabbitry. Get the point? And again, a fence—while it may not
Courtesy Edwin H. Stahl Outside Hutches and Developing Pens
be burglar proof, is at least a little less attractive for thieves to enter your rabbitry, what say you? Did you ever consider these things that MIGHT happen in your rabbitry? They have with others, and maybe with you, unless you guard against such preventive losses.
Remember—good stock deserves good hutches. One is just as important as the other. If you have both, there is no reason in the world why you should not MAKE A SUCCESS OF THE RABBIT BUSINESS.
American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc. DEMONSTRATION PLANT Located at 7408 Normal Avenue, Chicago, Illinois.
When building rabbitries, whether inside or outside hutch plans are used, the first thought to give consideration is the comfort and protection in cold weather as well as hot weather for the rabbits are helpless when placed in the hutches and if properly housed will thrive and produce results but if not properly housed, sickness and failure are sure to follow.
SUNSHINE AND FRESH AIR: Sunshine is one of the many requisites for good healthy rabbits and by this system all hutches are given a
supply daily and also fresh air in abundance. All hutches face the east, thereby getting sunlight in the morning, as the rows of hutches run north and south, the sun penetrates between each row, also keeping the air dry and pure.
THE LATTICE ENCLOSURE: This enclosure not only protects the rabbits from dogs or individuals who might frighten or harm them, but also protects the hutches from driving winds and rain, as it will serve to break their force before reaching the hutches.
ALLEYS BETWEEN HUTCHES: The rows of hutches are only 3 ft. apart as this also serves to protect the front from winds and rain and with the protection from the roof, both front and back, it is impossible for rain to drive into these hutches and is a protection also from severe
winds in winter. If, however, you have plenty of room, 5 or 6 ft. of
space can be between rows.
HAND HOLES FOR HAY RACK: These holes are also kept open during warm or mild weather but closed by the galvanized iron disks during cold weather.
VENTILATION HOLES IN BACK: At the back of each hutch you will notice an opening 4 in. by 3 ft. in length. These openings are to allow air to circulate through the hutch during warm weather and are kept closed during cold weather.
Hutch Fronts—Showing Feed Drawer Pulled Out and Holes for Placing Hay in Backs
FEEDING: All feeding can be done without opening doors as hay can be placed in the racks through the round openings for this purpose and feed and water given by pulling out a drawer holding the feed and water crocks. In the larger hutches where the hay racks extend the whole width of the hutch, enough hay can be placed to supply one or two animals at least three days.
SELF-CLEANING: You will notice the floor has a drop of two inches from front to back and all droppings naturally drop back to the wire netting and out on the ground below. Occasionally the netting will get clogged with litter, then all that is necessary, is to take a small lath and open up. This netting must have a 3/4 in. mesh as 1/2 in. is too small. Droppings can be raked or swept up about once or twice a week from the ground and the ground back of the hutches sprinkled with disinfectant. Opening in floor in back is 8 inches wide and openings in back of hutches where sheet iron is placed to catch droppings is 5 inches in width.
DOOR FOR HUTCHES: These doors are not built with a large opening. This is to protect stock during cold weather and yet large enough to give sufficient air during warm weather and give the attendant ample room
to take stock out, as he has access to all parts of the hutch from these doors. Doors on the 4 ft. hutches, 14 in. wide, and on the 5 ft. hutches, 20 in wide.
No. 1 Shows 6 Inch Board No. 2, Board Raised No. 3, Board Removed in Place
By referring to the above cut you will readily see a nest box that has given satisfaction for several years past by the writer and Figures 1, 2, and 3 explain themselves. Experience has taught me that a Nest Box is one of the most important fixtures of any rabbitry for if you are successful in producing youngsters they must be well protected the first few days after birth and especially if the weather is cold or chilly. One of the important features regarding nest box is to have it removable so that when the youngsters are old enough to run around in the hutch freely and weather permitting they can be removed and give entire floor space to doe and litter.
They should also be large enough to give doe ample room in making nest and nursing youngsters but no larger than necessary as it only takes up space in hutch that is needed by the doe and litter.
If a doe is given the whole hutch to make her nest she will only use a very small space in one corner which goes to prove that only a medium size nest box is necessary and as I said before I have used this size for the past several years and very seldom lose a youngster regardless of weather conditions. December 31, 1927, a doe littered in an outside hutch in one of these nest boxes and saved every youngster. Thermometer 10 below zero and a driving wind and snow storm raging, and all grew up to maturity in a good healthy condition.
These boxes are 12 inches high, 12 inches wide, and 14 inches long for Chinchillas and medium size breeds and 18 inches long for Flemish and larger breeds. They are not built in the hutch but are made independent of the hutch and removable. There is a loose removable board 6 inches high at the front of each box fitted in between two small strips of wood and can readily be removed by lifting up or raised any height desired and held at any point by one small nail or pin at each side.
Place box in hutch two weeks before doe is due to litter, leaving the board in place as shown in No. 1. This board prevents doe from scattering youngsters over hutch and also keeps them in nest box until they are about three or four weeks of age. About this age raise board about 3
inches as shown in No. 2 and place a crock of rolled oats in box out of reach of doe. This allows youngsters to come and go at will and they can also nibble at the rolled oats and doe is then shut out of box but young-sters have free access. After five or six weeks if weather is cold (and you have outside hutches) remove front board entirely and place your feed troughs or large crocks for the litter in hutch but if weather is not severe remove nest box entirely. Place them in a good dry place ready for the next litter.
NEST BOXES: All nest boxes are removable so that when not needed they can be taken out and give more hutch space, but each hutch will contain a nest box during cold weather to further protect the animals.
Boxes are 12 in. high, 12 in. wide and 14 in. long for Chinchillas and medium sized breeds and 18 in. in length for Flemish and other larger breeds.
A six-inch removable board is located at the front of the nest box to keep youngsters from emerging and getting food before their tender stomachs can digest it. When old enough, the board can be removed, allowing them to come and go at their pleasure.
EXHIBITION TABLES: About the center of each of the hutches is a disappearing exhibition table to place stock on to show visitors, etc. These tables are drawn out when wanted for use and shoved back under the hutch when not in use. Always convenient when you want them and out of the way when not in use.
SPRINKLING SYSTEM: For extremely hot days the shower system of sprinkling is used and the water is thrown over the hutches by a high, rotating sprinkler, acting as a shower of rain and cooling the hutches and atmosphere several degrees within a short time.
LOCATION OF PLANT: You will notice that this plant is set on a plot of ground that is high and no water is ever seen on these grounds, even after the heavy rains, as there is a natural drain which carries it away immediately.
DIMENSIONS OF HUTCHES: Hutches all 30 in. deep (from front to back). One row is 20 in. high and the others 22 in. high. One row of hutches contains hutches 4 ft. in length, for Chinchillas and medium or small breeds. The remainder are 5 ft. long for Flemish and the larger breeds. If only two tiers high, 22 inches in height for each hutch is very much preferred.
FLOORS OF HUTCHES: Floors slope 2 in. from front to back and all given coat of black asbestos waterproof paint, and are made of tongue and grooved flooring. See that wire netting is fastened underneath edge of floor and not on top, and galvanized sheet under this.
SUMMARY: Have all hutches face east if possible. Two tiers of hutches preferred, but if crowded for room, can be made in three tiers, but only 18 in. in height. Bottom of hutches should be at least 1 ft. from ground. These hutches are 20 in. from ground.
SELF CLEANING HUTCHES AND DRAUGHTS: Many are under the impression that these self-cleaning features create drafts. Experience is the best teacher; read what Mr. Stahl says after trying them for several years. These hutches are self-cleaning as the name implies, but occasionally you have individual rabbits who prefer to live in filth rather than clean quarters, and their hutches will require attention. However, the majority of rabbits prefer cleanliness.
Dear Mr. Weygandt:
Regarding your inquiry as to the Improved Outdoor Self-Cleaning Rabbit Hutches, and as to how they are adapted in cold climates, I wish to state that these hutches are being used in all sections of the country, in hot and cold climates, and give entire satisfaction. The matter of universal utility was taken under advisement in the general ideas pertaining to and in the construction of these hutches. That’s why they are a success.
We built our first section of these hutches two years ago, after experimenting with different hutches for more than twelve years. The first improved hutch was constructed in July, 1925. This was a single tier of 40 pens. In this new hutch we housed rabbits during the whole winter of 1925, without the back ever being closed. We never raised a finer and healthier bunch of rabbits than we did during that particular season. Finding them so satisfactory, we extended our building operations during the following summer and fall, spending not less than $6,000 in these improvements and are adding more all the time.
We have had no trouble with colds among our stock to speak of. In fact, we have taken rabbits out of the solid floor disease breeding hutches where they have contracted colds, put them into the improved self-cleaning hutch, where they were sure of lots of fresh air and plenty of ventilation, as well as light, and under such ideal conditions, such rabbits got well and remained so.
There are not less than thirty rabbit breeders in and around Kansas City who have built hutches after this improved self-cleaner order. They, too, have found it the best rabbit hutch they have ever used in their rabbitries, and most of those breeders are building more equipment after the same order. They report their stock to be in good, healthy condition, practically immune from colds.
I believe that the old idea of rabbits catching cold because air would reach them, is more or less—well, bunk. Raise them where they can get lots of air, and the breeder will raise better and healthier stock.
Up until now, we have not heard of a single breeder who has constructed and used these hutches being bothered with stock suffering with colds. Furthermore, from experiments made recently and which will be carried out during the coming winter months, I believe I will be able to show that wrong feeding and not wrong hutching, is responsible for at least 50% of all rabbit ailments, and that the other 50% of the sickness among rabbits is caused by the old style solid-floor hutch, that cannot be kept clean and free from disease breeding.
I am convinced that the improved outdoor self-cleaning hutch is the best yet, and I am converted to the idea of more air and better rabbits. In this way, I am on the road to establish a breeding plant where colds, snuffles and kindred diseases, due to lack of air and the use of solid floor hutches, will be unknown. My very intensive research work and practice for years, and my plans and operations in general and improved housing quarters from time to time, gives me the assurance and certainty that there is none better than the improved outdoor self-cleaning hutch for success in rabbit raising.
Yours very truly,
Edw. H. Stahl, President.
Plant is equipped with electric lights and electric burglar alarm system, protecting each hutch door and also gate. Alarm and lights work entirely automatically.
Should one have plenty of space and wish more protection in front of hutches for feeding, etc., during rainy weather the roof can be extended
Showing Corner of One Hutch (Inside) Hay Hack and Top Ventilation. The Upright 10 Inch Board Shown Just Inside Door is to Protect Stock from Wind
three feet in front and raised two feet higher and three tiers can be made if preferred, but two tier hutches are much more convenient.
Courtesy Gold Seal Rabbitry Showing Front Extended for Protection of Attendant
Note: Each hutch can be 20 inches high and drop of floor from front to back should be 2 inches and opening in back to release droppings should be 5 inches and wire screen for droppings to pass through should be 3/4 inch as litter will clog 1/2 or5/8 inch mesh. Drop doors can be attached to open-ing in back to close during severe cold weather.
Courtesy Hollywood Rabbitry A Neat Rabbitry Well Advertised General View of Plant
Well Arranged Hutches
Courtesy Clifton Rabbitry
LiNe BreedINg ChArt
The above chart represents the system of line breeding and all should study same carefully if interested in producing stock of value as exhibition or breeding specimens or certain points of value pertaining to their respective breeds.
Attention first is directed to the chart, showing a method of line breeding. Observe that by this plan two blood lines are sought to be established, so to call them, a male line and a female line, the blood of male No. 1 to predominate as to its proportions in the male line, shown by black within the circles, generation after generation, and a female line in which the blood of hen No. 2 is to predominate, as shown by the large percentages of white space to be found at the right on chart, representing the several generations which carry her blood.
The main point to be noted here, in an examination of this method, is that the author was not content simply to secure 50 per cent of the blood of male No. 1 and 50 per cent of the blood of female No. 2, as indicated in progeny shown on this chart as No. 3, but he advised the mating of daughters No. 3 back to their sire No. 1 and a son from No. 3 back to his dam No. 2, thus to produce No. 4 with three-fourths the blood of No. 1; also (if
desired a year later) a daughter or several daughters shown as No. 4, back to the original sire No. 1, thereby to secure No. 6, having seven-eighths the blood of male No. 1. Thence onward the blood of male No. 1 is shown as held or carried in line through one of his sons, represented by No. 6, mated to female No. 4, resulting in progeny No. 8 which is thirteen-sixteenths of the original male blood, etc., etc. This same general plan, if found desirable and possible (depending on the sire and dam living and continung in breeding condition) was to be practiced in building up or establishing the female line, provided of course, one or both of these lines proved to be prepotent or reasonably so for the desired character or characteristics.
Means Blood of the Individuals
In considering or studying this Chart, it should be realized that here it is the bloods of individual animals which are represented; that is, the proportions of black within the circles that contain black are used to show the blood of male No. 1, as carried down through the successive matings and generations, while exactly the same is true of the proportions of white within the circles, as showing the proportions or percentages of the blood of female No. 2.
For practical mating in the form of line breeding, male No. 1 may be unrelated to female (or females) No. 2, each representing a different strain of a breed or variety; or they may be unrelated as members of the same strain; or they may be members of the same family of a strain and therefore more or less of the same blood, but still not related as individuals. In getting an elementary knowledge of line breeding, as illustrated in a general way by this chart it will simplify matters to regard male No. 1 and female No. 2 as being entirely unrelated, which plan can leave no doubt as to the proportions or percentages of blood to be found in the progeny of each succeeding generation, such as half-and-half, or 50-50 in No. 3, both bucks and does; of 75 per cent of male No. 1 in progeny No. 4, both bucks and does; of 75 per cent of female No. 2 in progeny No. 5, both sexes, and so on down the chart.
It further is to be borne in mind that seldom does a buck live long enough or remain in suitable breeding condition to carry his blood beyond the third or fourth generation by the process of line breeding, although for practical purposes that is considered long enough.
In examining further the chart, it will be noted that progeny No. 3 is made up of one-half the blood of male No. 1 and one-half the blood of any female from No. 2. Then, it is advisable that this blood be increased in No. 4 or No. 5 by the “breeding-back” plan (daughter to sire, or Bon with dam) to get three-fourths of the blood of male No. 1 in progeny No. 4 and three-fourths of female No. 2 in progeny No. 5. Meanwhile the progeny must merit approval in every practical way, such as health and vigor, normal or rapid maturity, size and weight, etc., with the object of learning whether or not these “lines” or either of them, are worth going on with, that is; whether the progeny proves to be of sufficient value, as compared with other specimens, to justify a pedigree line from this source, to wit: from male No. 1 and female No. 2, as represented by progeny in which their individual blood is known to predominate.
Seven-eighths of the blood of an original animal is regarded by Live 8tock Breeders as being “pure” while three-fourths blood as a rule is found highly valuable in case the original buck was of that kind.
Study the chart carefully and you will find it interesting and Line Breeding practical to produce certain results.
For the benefit of the beginner, I wish to advise you these standards are made and revised every two years at our annual convention, and these
standards are made to cover exhibition and high class breeding stock, and are Ideals of Perfection set up to breed to. Occasionally you will hear the remark, “What difference does it make if a Chinchilla has white toe nails, blue eyes, etc.” The animal is just as good for eating as a dark toe nail or brown-eyed rabbit. We admit this and also that they should be eaten, but also wish to advise these standards are not made for meat rabbits but for Standard Bred Rabbits, and one might just as well make the statement that “lop ears,” “crooked feet and legs,” “crooked tails,” etc., should not disqualify as it has no effect on the carcass when dressed for eating purposes, but show me the breeder who would advocate placing these “culls” on exhibition to draw the public eye to the fine qualities of Standard Bred Domestic Rabbits. One must admit it would make a ridiculous showing of Standard Bred Rabbits and very few prospective beginners would be attracted by such an exhibit. One might go further and say, white ears on Chinchillas are all right as it does not affect the skin used by the furrier, as he does not use the ears. But would you be satisfied with such culls if you were breeding high class Chinchillas? No, indeed. So do not get confused by reading these other standards, but follow the standards included herein covering your respective breeds, in your breeding and selecting of show specimens, as they have been created and revised only after careful consideration by leading breeders and judges, and are protected by copyright by The American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc.
While we do not believe in disregarding new breeds and not admitting them to our standard, we do require that they first be proven worthy of admission and possess qualifications of individual merit peculiar to themselves, and also that they are a separate and distinct breed as claimed by the breeders seeking their admission. When the breeder has found that he has produced a new and distinct breed he should write up a standard to cover same and mail it to the Chairman of the Standard Committee, advising him that he has a breed worthy of recognition, stating he will make a display of this new breed at the next Annual Convention Show of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., requesting the Standard Committee to examine the breed, and if found worthy, adopt a working standard to cover same. If the committee find the new breed worthy of recognition, a working standard will be adopted and later on the breed admitted as a Standard Breed.
Champion Certificates issued by this association are given to each local association holding charter with the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc. for their annual show, to be placed by the association as they see fit and are usually placed on best buck or doe of different breeds, so as to give all a fair chance to win one. These certificates are of nice size for framing; blank spaces, to be filled in by show secretary, allow for name of animal, breed, owner, etc. Ten of these certificates are given each year for the annual show, and secretaries should make request for same before show, and they will be mailed promptly. No animal can be awarded these certificates, however, unless registered in The American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc.
Grand Champion Certificates are to be awarded individual specimens. We have special printed applications to be filled out by breeder for this purpose, which will be mailed free to all requesting same. Any member
having an animal winning three first prizes under two different A. R. & C.
B. A. Judges with five or more entries in a class shown by three or more exhibitors and registered in the A. R. & C. B. A., is entitled to make application for one of these Grand Champion Certificates. When application is received it should be properly filled out, showing animal entitled to certificate which is to be granted.
We also issue Special Ribbons to local associations chartered with the American for their Annual Farm or Table Shows. Six of these Ribbons are given for this purpose only, and only once each year. Secretaries should make application for same two weeks before show.
Courtesy of St. Paul Rabbitry
By M. L. Thayer.
It would seem to most business men aware of the facts that rabbitmen are averse to clerical work, have but little idea of the value of records and statistics. Perhaps this aversion accounts for why rabbitcraft is reckoned more of a hobby, or fancy, than a real business enterprise. It would seem to a business man that anything so easily formulated as the cost of rabbit meat production would be better established with relation to its business aspects, that compensation would become so well fixed that price fluctuation would be less extreme from season to season.
As a matter of fact producers were not all on the same basis. A considerable number had good demands for breeding stock, fair retail trade or something else of that sort to help out.
The daily feed cost for a mature rabbit is too widely variable to be cited as a unit without some qualification. The unit serving in the following figures is the daily feed cost of a mature rabbit in breeding service requiring a daily ration balanced for growth as well as for maintenance. The figures have been stated several times, heretofore as applying to the time being, but the method of estimating is the same. The factors are based upon the following assumptions which my experience has proved well grounded.
A young rabbit of a litter of six will consume at six weeks age one-third of the feed quantity consumed by a mature rabbit of the same breed in addition to the nourishment provided by the doe. At twelve weeks age we may assume two-thirds of a normal mature ration, and at seventeen weeks age full mature ration. On this basis a 10 weeks age youngster will have required thirty-five daily mature rations, a fair reflection of its feed equivalent.
The daily feed cost for the time being may be estimated by first weighing a day’s rations and figuring up its cost at the prices at which it was purchased; second, by going over the herd and estimating its equivalent in mature rabbits, and third, by dividing the first factor by the second. With a little practice one can readily determine the quantity of feed applying to a doe with litter of whatever age, or a well developed litter after the doe is removed. For example, on October 20 my herd of old and young rabbits figured up equal to 120 mature rabbits. The feed quantities, cost and unit expense were as follows:
15 lbs. barley @ $2.40 per cwt.............................................$ .36
7 lbs. bran @ $2.37 1/2 per cwt............................................17
40 lbs. alfalfa @ $2.00 per cwt............................................80
Total for 120 rabbits.....................................................$1.33
Total for one rabbit.......................................................011
The above daily unit fed cost of 1.1 cents per day is under the average rather than above it as my herd included over sixty mature rabbits held for sale, most of them being on rather light grain ration. The breeding herd would average just about 1.2 cents per day unit feed cost.
The next item of expense is what the youngster owes for parentage as this is quite an important addition to production cost and is a matter very important to industrial success. It can be taken without prejudice that the breeding herd should be selected from the best one-half of all the product of a well maintained rabbitry, the other half going to the meat trade at very moderate average profit. It is a ruinous policy to buy cull rabbits for breeding stock for any purpose. A competent producing rab-
bit, doe or buck, is entitled to a valuation corresponding to what a capable rabbitman can sell it for, or would pay for it, for that purpose. For such rabbits $5 each is a low valuation rather than a high one. If we use the common ratio of one buck to ten does a youngsters parents are equal to a valuation of $5.50. Esitmating a three-year breeding period of twenty-four young per year we have a charge of 7.64 cents for parentage.
A youngster owes something for the equipment in which it is sheltered. As this item covers quite permanent features, interest charge is more applicable than to short lived animals. About ten years ago when most of my equipment was built it was consistent to estimate $6 per hutch or litter pen. Today good hutches are on the market for $3 each in four-hutch units. Adding transportation and setting up charges one can assume $4 each as a fair valuation, and seven per cent annum to cover interest and light repairs for a 20-year service. We then have $4 plus ($4x.07x20) equals $9.60 for a 20-year period, being 47 cents per year, or 0.134 of one cent per day for the use of hutches or pens.
Time units are open to considerable question, being dependent upon quite a number of details, such as completeness of hutches for rapid feeding and the frequency of feeding, the amount of cleaning up required, the time given to inspecting and selecting stock, showing stock to customers, attending to the essentials of dressing rabbits for retail trade or marketing live ones. It has always seemed to me practical to feed breeding stock in active service twice daily. Other classes of stock may do about as well if a once daily feeding practice is carefully managed. Furthermore, breeding does with litters require some attention. It is impractical to overlook details when undue haste means loss of young rabbits.
It has been my practice in calculating time units to assume two minutes per day per hutch or pen. Sometimes a lot of sixty or so pens and hutches are fed and watered in thirty-five minutes. At other times over an hour is required to get out the feed and make the rounds. A nest box is needed, an ailing rabbit needs treatment, or dead baby rabbits appear in the nests. Some details of attention are forever showing up. I recently talked with a man who was caring for a 240-hutch outfit. He allowed that feeding, watering, mating does, cleaning up and watching details kept him busy for at least eight hours daily. When much selling was done or letters answered it meant overtime. He fed once daily, now and then twice a day to does with big litters. Now, eight hours is 480 minutes, or two minutes per day per butch.
As a basis of hutch occupation we may assume one butch for doe, or doe and litter, from mating until weaning time when young are eight or nine weeks old. One compartment for litter from weaning until thirteen weeks (three months) old. Two compartments per litter, sexes separated, from thirteen weeks to seventeen weeks (four months) old. Thereafter it is a matter of suitable equipment for development. Accordingly for a youngster of a litter of six we can estimate six hutch days at birth (remember the buck) a total of fifteen hutch days at eight weeks, twenty-one at thirteen weeks and thirty hutch days at seventeen weeks age. Therefore, our ten weeks old youngster has about seventeen and one-half hutch days at two minutes per day, or thirty-five minutes’ time charged to his account. The seventeen and one-half days of hutch occupancy at .134 of one cent per day amounts to 2.35 cents.
Assembling our factors we have the following production cost of a ten weeks youngster from a litter of six:
35 mature feeds @ 1.1c............................................38.50
Charge for parentage ............................................. 7.64
Hutch 17.5 days @ 0.134 .......................................... 2.35
Production cost ...................................................... 48.49
Accordingly we may safely assume that a ten weeks rabbit has cost ten cents for hutches and parents. At the prevailing feed store prices the feed cost of a ten weeks rabbit is thirty-eight to forty cents.
Respecting the average weight of a ten weeks rabbit from the meat stock breeds of about ten pounds mature weight there is considerable difference of opinion. Rabbitmen in general have a fixed notion that four pounds at eight weeks is typical growth. I am certainly open to conviction on this weight matter, in fact no one would be better pleased if such a figure could be set forth and backed up. It is often set forth indeed, but I have never found it properly backed up by recorded facts. It is impossible for me to accept statements of this sort from biased minds in capable of orderly recording of consistent data.
Several years ago I made a study of the growth power of rabbits. My data was compiled from actual weights of many rabbits of various ages and various breeds of stock. The purpose back of this was to obtain facts, not ideas of various persons. With a mass of these weight data the whole were platted on a graphic chart and a line of consistent average weights established. This line showed for ten pounds mature weight practically as fol-lows:
1 month age—1.80 lbs.; 2 month age—3.35 lbs.; 3 month age—4.70 lbs.; 4 month age—5.80 lbs.; 5 month age—6.85 lbs.; 6 month age—7.80 lbs.
These results do not reflect solely the weights of most active growth but of average progress for many rabbits from ten-pound parents, and the weight at ten weeks is four pounds. As a matter of fact a four-pound weight at eight weeks is in correspondence with thirteen pounds mature weight as average rabbits grow. My rabbitry has turned out a great many litters averaging four pounds at eight weeks from ten-pound parents. It is very natural to fix such litters in mind and be influenced by them. Also it is very natural to ignore many other litters of less interesting progress and not weigh them at all. Such practice, however, does not provide one with actual facts. It is doubtless true that by selective breeding and scientific culture strains of ten-pound stock are possible that will show higher weights, but how many producers follow such methods?
Another matter of importance to industrial production is the cost of feeds. It is noted that the above estimate is based upon feed store prices lately prevailing, barley $48 per ton, bran $47.50 and alfalfa $40 per ton. Now if one could purchase barley and bran at $35 and good alfalfa at $25 per ton the feed cost for a ten weeks rabbit would be 26 ents and total cost 36 cents including hutch and parentage charges. If sold at four pounds weight for 12 cents per pound there would be 12 cents profit for the thirty-five minutes’ labor required, or just about 20 cents per hour wages. It is certainly impossible to produce meat without feed and, except in rare cases, it is unusual to find many rabbitmen buying feed at the low prices above quoted.
It is interesting to observe how few rabbit producers of any consequence depend upon market buyers. There are quite a number who sell dressed meat direct to the retail market men and thereby save for themselves the value of the pelts, thus adding an average of 25 cents per hour to their wages. The same producers and some others are doing a breeding stock business in which there is some profit.
Wholesale marketmen hold one of the controlling factors, the producers hold the other. Market buyers can and should work sufficiently in harmony to fix such retail prices that each agency will be compensated.
The other factor, held by producers, is the supply of rabbits, the most potent factor of all if used with effect. The great drawback to effective activity, it seems to me, is the fact that the producing agency is separated in a great number of small units each of whom has comparatively little capital invested. With such a diversified class of independent units it is human nature that the individual, having not much at stake, would get more fun out of disagreeing. Really, while some prejudice exists, there

is nothing like virulent antagonism among rabbit producers. Yet what absolute control of the whole situation is possible to the producing agency.
It is evident that growth in market matters must take place, also that a clearer understanding of the facts underlying the profit and loss of rabbit production prevail among rabbitmen. These benefits will not appear overnight, substantial growth is slow. One cannot doubt, however, that, as the importance of industrial rabbitcraft increases, so also will its marketing agency establish for its better protection a sound, uniform marketing policy. Likewise also for its better protection will its producing agency direct its best efforts toward some permanent method of compensating production.
Vision and Purpose
The Need for Systematized Development and Cooperation Among Breeders
By James Bunt.
Business Manager of Stahl’s Outdoor Enterprise Company, and Managing Editor of “Fur Animals”
“When You Start out to do anything, never let anything disturb you from doing that ONE thing. This power of putting thought on ONE PARTICULAR THING—and KEEPING IT THERE for hours at a time, takes practice.”—Thomas A. Edison.
Time and time again, when speaking or reading concerning the rabbit, we hear or read so much about “industry”—as if the rabbit industry (!) is an established thing in a national utility way. But—is there consistency in the use of such a term (as industry) when we consider the present status upon which the rabbit stands? Surely not! The rabbit business is not yet strong enough in the number of breeders— and stock produced, to warrant the use of such a broad term as "industry ".
Seemingly, the situation has been viewed by many breeders for years as a kind of business or “industry” that would automatically unfold itself, without any special or great exertion on the part of the average breeder. They have expected the thing to grow of itself and become a national giant by way of serving the people with food and for the supply of fur requirements, as well. However, that cannot be—it is not only true with the rabbit business but with all businesses or enterprises. In order for the thing to forge ahead—to gain ground—to be worth while—to be of national utility and service, there must be the application of the BREEDERS IN GENERAL in a systematic and co-operative way—where BACKBONE will be a big factor in operation, and less of the wishbone, the canker of many potential and worth while enterprises, which otherwise would be useful and serve a great purpose.
In the promotion and building of enterprises, we hear a great deal about the “BUSINESS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT.” It has been applied to rabbit raising and to encourage people to start in the business. That is perfectly allright, for hundreds of people have found the rabbit business affording lots of pleasure as well as offering lots of profit. That being true, it is in conformity with the law which responds to RIGHT ACTION for in the following words we read:
“The high prize of life, the CROWNING FORTUNE OF A MAN is to be born with a bias for some pursuit which finds him EMPLOYMENT and HAPPINESS.”—Emerson.
The same may be applied to a business or industry. In other words, it is the formation of an idea—A SET PURPOSE so that you may first “PLAN YOUR WORK—then WORK YOUR PLAN”—whether in the formation and promotion of an individual business, or concerted efforts on the part of many people to work to a given purpose—THE BUILDING OF AN INDUSTRY. That’s what I have in mind so far as the RABBIT INDUSTRY is concerned. We must do that if we wish to succeed in our purpose. Aggressive motive—forward and persistent power are the factors for us to MAKE OPPORTUNITIES and in the development and material ization thereof become experientially SUCCESSFUL.
Perhaps it is fitting at this time to give interpretation to certain words or terms used in the field of business and industrialism in order to get clear understanding and no misunderstanding. In this respect, it makes it much better for all to come to a unity of purpose and action, because of mutual agreement from a common understanding. Excerpts from Webster
Promotion: The act of promoting—advancing or encouraging; to con-tribute to the growth of.
Establish: To set up in business.
Business: Any particular occupation or employment for livelihood or gain—as agriculture—art, or profession.
Industry: Employment of much labor and capital in a distinct branch of trade—as the sugar industry, the iron industry, the agricultural industry.
Remember, in the promotion of the rabbit business we are connected with a DISTINCT BRANCH of the AGRICULTURAL INDUSTRY. Now then, measure the present status of rabbits with other phases of the agricultural industry contributing meats and other products to that particular industry, and where does the rabbit stand? That’s the point for you to decide. Being fair to yourself and fair to the rabbit, you cannot but help come to the conclusion that we’ve “got a long ways to go’’ before we can properly appropriate the term “industry” so far as the commercial rabbit is concerned.
“Commerce is King,” remarked Thomas Carlyle. It has dominion and the power to take its part in the supply of the great demands in meeting the necessities of the world; the rabbit occupying its place as a food commodity primarily, also for the supply of fur for warmth and wear. But where are we in that regard? What distance have we traveled to reach that station? How are we making our way! Surely, we ought to have made by this time greater progress. What has been the hindrance? In our reaching to date have we not come up against things which have appeared almost insurmountable? And for what reason? It is believed, that if we were to carefully ask ourselves these questions with a thorough purpose of getting an understanding, the result would largely indicate too much individualism and selfish effort to get gain, instead of working along cooperative measures and seeking to establish an industry where there would be ample scope even for the individual business as well as company organizations to make a success with fitting qualifications and management by the application of business principles; the individual as well as the company working to the same purpose, namely, intensive production.
If those already engaged in the rabbit and small stock farming interest will consider that their doings at the present time must determine future success or failure, there may arise a desire for more associated effort necessarily following in the path of progress. The individual’s bearing should be toward the establishment of a real and live industry, if he is to remain, otherwise his “business” today may be a thing of the past tomorrow. Today is the foundation of tomorrow, and so on. “Business is business” only when rightly understood and compatibly organized with efficient handling means the forward march to prosperity. We do not appreciate “booms”; they are too short lived. What we want to seek is the establishment of something permanent, and that can only obtain when there is utility in what is sought to be marketed. That is the destiny of the rabbit.
There is not the slightest question as to the usefulness of the rabbit, but we should bear in mind that at the present time there are comparatively few people in this country, outside the rabbit sphere, who see as we see. Isn’t there something to be done then! Surely there is, and a great deal too, if we are going to seek nation-wide commercial recognition. The individual can do his part progressively if he so wills and provided he acts in that capacity, it will be only a short while ere he will find himself working in conjunction with others, resulting in the affiliation of various societies and evolve into a unified national association of real worth, not only to societies connected therewith, but it will become national and broaden out to be international.
The opportunities to supply the world with food and fur are unlimited. To live, we must eat, and there is every reason to believe that the rabbit can come in and take part in our national economics as one of the leading
domestic meat supply. How about the establishment of a general utility?| Where are we when it comes to that? If we have not made a start, when are we going to? Are not golden opportunities passed up every day? If we have the excuse that there is a general apathy toward rabbit meat, why do we not get together and squash the barrier of prejudice so often canker-ous to various causes, which otherwise would be of great benefit to human kind? The person who knows the value of an article and determines to win out, is the one to outwit prejudice and glory in his cause. Experiences of successful business men tell us that they had their “bitter pill” to swallow, but the more doses taken, greater was the energy put forward. Theirs was no “Royal Path to Success”; often it was more of thorns and hard bumps that brought reward; the up-and-a-doing spirit seasoned with perse-verance and untiring zeal. Take heed, ye rabbit breeders who mean busi-ness.
If we are going to do anything toward a successful issue to the buildings up of a permanent rabbit industry, it means decided effort with fixed determination. Problems and perplexities will have to be overcome; vicis-situdes will not be absent. Personal initiative is necessary to do con-structive work, but how much better and far easier it can be done by application in a united way. The effectiveness of an enterprise is largely to be judged from what one knows concerning his object in view and if he can apply his services because of commercial knowledge, then better and quicker results will obtain and we shall learn of more successes and less of failures. When a young man or woman wishes to enter the business world, the primary concern is to augment their school education. They realize they have to go after it, but how would they fare to enter a business establishment without, first of all, having made preparation therefor? We know positively well, they would not hold their jobs five minutes, as long as there were others who could be secured and adapted for the position. There is no getting away from the fact that more education and system are needed in rabbitdom, and to think that any business can be formed and maintained when there is lack of “knowing how” is a farce right on the face of it; a foregone conclusion of failure. Of course it must be admitted that we have many men and women of business ability and experience engaged in rabbit raising who are making a success, but how many are otherwise? There is a far greater percentage without the experience than with. We want something beyond individualism; our urgent need is cooperation along commercial lines especially.
If there were more practical business efforts put forth in rabbitdom, we would see the enterprise develop surprisingly great. There are always people ready to take hold when they see what is considered something worth developing for utility purpose and profit.
We have a case for demonstration. There is a tremendous task before us if we wish to see the rabbit placed where it rightfully belongs as a national commodity. It is not an impossible attainment, but the longer we delay, the more difficult it is going to be for us to accomplish. We should get busy right now and line ourselves up for the promotion of an industry by creating a new realization of the rabbit commercially. The various interests engaged in live stock businesses throughout the world are making headway all the time and yet are unable to fill the demands. They seri-ously sense the necessity of solving the problems in connection with the shortage and are trying in many ways to meet the situation by encour-aging the raising of more stock in order to get meat for human consumption. Very few of such interested parties consider the rabbit as a meat producer but if we are going to let them continue thinking that way and let it go at that by lying down and taking it easy when there is the opportunity for the promotion of a healthy and continuous supply market, we deserve to lose out, that is all there is to it. How much longer do we intend to sleep on our rights? Quite a number of breeders sold out their rabbit stock while the war was on, thinking it better to do that than run a risk of losing what they had. There would have been no reason for such a
fear had the rabbit been firmly established as a marketable product. Again, there were others who gave up interest on account of being called to national service and were unable to find anyone to carry on the enterprise in their absence. It is really a shame that in so strenuous and demanding times that such things happened. That is where the rabbit should have received its greatest promotion, especially since it can be handled by the average person who has liking for animals and raised so economically for domestic use. The war is over, but the demand for foodstuffs is greater than before, and many who were formerly engaged in the rabbit and small stock enterprise are coming back.
There is every reason to believe that it would be well to foster and encourage a commercial inducement which is the only assurance of the safety and continuity of the rabbit in being raised at all to any extent. Modernization of methods, procedure and systematized activities must obtain. A business consistency should be developed. The time for action is here; it is our day, our hour, our minute, our moment right now. Are we preparing ourselves to take advantage of these great present-day opportunities? If so, we must make others see as we see; feel as we feel; understand as we understand; then to action with might and main with full determination to win out. The writer has in mind a statement by that eminent British politician, David Lloyd George, which reads, “Think out new ways; think out new methods; think out new ways to deal with problems. Don’t always be thinking of going back where you were before the war. Get a new world.’’ What a wonderful philosophy! It has a real bed-rock bottom; soundness of thought, which, put into operation, must surely bring beneficial results. There is no better way of application for such advice than by the individual in person and associated effort, in business and in the great field of industrialism. Getting the meaning of this will develop intensity and come to the individual more forcibly inasmuch as he is able to comprehend the terms used in regard to his interests and social activities in the world of enterprises.
We naturally seem to look for personal success and advancement; we want to improve our profits and income; the desire alone will not give us possession. A person can own a business, but public support is the soul thereof; take that away, and what would happen: If that support can only be worked more closely toward the real meaning of cooperation, then there is the life more abundant in all our doings. It means greater energy, extended activities, executive power and business building; the establishment of something worth while where commercial rabbits can be raised for food, fur and profit as a national utility.
M. L. Thayer
Among domesticated animals we observe the orderly progress of certain functions according to certain natural or enforced regulations, among these functions being the reproductive power. We are often advised that it is wise to go according to nature. In some ways it is the thing to do, in other ways it is expensive practice. With our small sized stock, like poultry and rabbits, the natural order of things would mean bankruptcy.
For several years I kept a record on a flock of hens and found their average to be less than one hundred eggs per year. Some of these hens were probably good layers while others laid according to nature, say thirty eggs in a season. Without trapnesting or honganizing the hens laying according to nature are not discovered, nor are those laying an unnatural number of eggs appreciated. The daily average was good during the natural breeding season but was little above zero during those months when birds are naturally dormant in production.
The same seasonal variation is natural to rabbits, yet we define our production rates and costs on the basis of continuous production. Economical production is entirely apart from seasonal periods of idleness in the breeding herd. Not only are such periods expensive because of reduced production but also because of their unfavorable effect on breeding stock. Doubtless more skill in feeding is required to carry a doe over a period of idleness than when the doe is nursing a litter, for the results of overfeeding in the first case are about as disastrous as the results of underfeeding in the second, except in the matter of numerical loss.
While one can keep the breeding herd employed continuously by using care and good judgment it is evident that rabbits are subject to certain effects of seasonal variations. During the late fall and early winter season it is common to receive “S. O. S. ” calls from breeders of short experience who want to know why their does won’t mate, or fail to kindle when they do. The causes of normally productive does becoming slackers at this period are likely to be combinations of conditions each of which is unfavorable to breeding activity.
In boyhood I learned considerable about the wild rabbits of southern New England, my home being in the country and as much time as possible spent in fields and woods. Wild rabbits captured in winter season were always fat although their food supply was rather meagre. It was the rule not to hunt rabbits after the first of March as the females were generally found to be pregnant. Early frosts occurred in September and the breeding season being over it was allowable to hunt them, for in those days rabbits were not protected in those parts by game laws. During the summer months it was common to find little rabbits separated from their mothers and thus easily caught, but it was very seldom one of them could be successfully raised under the care we could give to it.
When fairly well grown, at about the age when practical rabbitmen separate does from litters, it was rarely a young rabbit was captured, except occasionally by the dogs. When established in a stone wall or a thick briar patch the rabbit was safe from mankind and dogs. In fact it was rare to see one where high grass and leaves afforded protection, yet one knew that rabbits were all about him.
Another fact about them which we were often impressed with was their activity and sprightly habits. After a light snowfall the ground around patches of undergrowth where rabbits dwelt would be so covered with tracks that it would seem that a great many were busy there most of the time, when in fact but a few had done the tracking, evidently these were pretty stirring. Such manner of life is out of all correspondence with a typical hutch of nine square feet area, yet it is the same species of animal confined there, often with a wire mesh floor which it fears to move actively upon.
Large colonies of rabbits together in large enclosures are not very practical according to the methods we have adopted for selective breeding. Much of the selective work and study of individuals required is practically impossible under such conditions. The nearest approach to favoring the habitual requirements of rabbits seemed to be some sort of adaptation of hutch or pen to correspond with their habits of life under domestication and yet afford to some extent the environment in which they naturally thrive.
For a number of years my equipment has consisted of three sorts, hutches, litter-pens and developing pens. Each of these serves a particular period of the breeding cycle. The hutches are 3x3-ft. floor space, with solid floor of lx3-in. stout slats laid 1/2-in. open. These are two story structures the solid floors above and the slats below and are built in four hutch or six hutch units. Litter pens have 3x5-ft. area of cement plastered floor on which a light bed of straw litter is used. Developing pens have 4x7-ft. cement plastered floor area, also littered with straw. The hutches and
litter pens are equipped with hay racks, all are equipped with earthenware grain crocks and water crocks.
After mating does occupy hutches, remaining there until the litter is out of the next box and eating with the doe, say about three or four weeks age. Doe and litter are then moved to a litter pen where they dwell while together, the litter remaining as much longer as practical purposes require. Developing pens are occupied by does intended for breeding, about six to a pen, being two or more from separate litters, or when possible, all from one litter. There they exercise and develop into full maturity.
The purposes of these three sorts of compartments are apparent to anyone who has studied the physical needs of rabbits during their productive and developing periods. In line with the most important principles recognized by authorities in animal husbandry a substantial hutch affords the security and protection so essential during pregnancy of the doe and infancy of her young. Nothing is more certain than the truth of one writer’s words “for the stimulation of growth and well being exercise is essential.’’
With valuable animals one may be well justified in the use of that equipment which ensures the welfare of the animal, even if it does not cover all of the latest labor saving fads. Again, is it likely that most valuable animals will be developed under any system of equipment that reflects ignorance of their physical requirements? Certainly if we force a continuous breeding activity upon animals accustomed by nature to a five or six months period of rest therefrom we can afford to allow the wisdom of such equipment as tends to favor their welfare therein.
Returning to the matter of a rabbit’s well being during periods of dormancy of the reproductive function. We have observed that wild rabbits become fat in midwinter under scant feed and while generally active. Also it is evident that their metabolic functions provide heat for their comfort and energy for their movements from this same diet. Now in view of these facts what must occur when mature rabbits are confined in small hutches, fed heavy, unnatural rations of grain and alfalfa during long idle periods? Certainly a more destructive situation would be hard to imagine.
After selective breeding has been followed for several generations, during which the best youngsters from the thriftiest litters have been carefully selected for breeding stock, it is possible to evolve a herd of does that will undergo continuous breeding periods over a natural life cycle of three or more years. Such does will generally be good mothers and reach the end of a nursing period in good flesh and vigor, ready for mating again.
With such a herd of does in continuous service one can follow the practice of taking does from their litters at weaning age, mate them and move them to the breeding hutches, each in one procedure. Very rarely will a doe refuse to mate or fail to kindle in due season. There are exceptions now and then, most of these being in the season when rabbits are naturally dormant in breeding. The causes, as above stated, are likely to be the reflection of several conditions.
Evidently there occurs, during the unnatural breeding season, in both bucks and does, a reduction in the vigor of the organs of reproduction. From what we have gone over in the above paragraphs this reduction is to be expected. The mere act of mating is not the whole of the matter. Probably more important is the action of those organs by which germ cells are matured and made ready for union and the embryonic growth of the young. This action is doubtless greatly affected by seasonal influences. There are plenty of reasons for these mating failures to be found in the field of literature treating on the physiology of reproduction. They are evident to a breeder who has gone into these subjects studiously.
When a mated doe fails to kindle one is aware of a mating failure, but careful observers of does during gestation are likely to note evidences of what has happened, or not happened. During gestation does are habitually
quiet, moderate feeders and generally restful. Much action, nervousness or unusual shoving of feed crocks around the hutch, etc., are due to something going wrong. A remating is advisable in such cases and it may or may not be successful.
Some does are differently organized from some others and anything unusual about does is likely to be more evident in the natural offbreeding season. On one occasion I mated a doe for an experienced rabbitman who brought the doe back a couple of weeks later declaring she did not act like a mated doe. It is not always wise to “test” does after mating by offering them repeated service, so this man was advised to put the doe on light ration and wait until her time was up. The advice proved good, the doe kindled a good litter in due season. The matter with the doe was some influence due to offseasonal variation.
Especially during offseason rabbitmen should use care in grain feeding to does in gestation or does approaching their breeding careers. Over stimulation certainly tends to create that physical condition in which the breeding powers are dormant, both in does and bucks, but particularly in does. Some day our experiment stations will give us some feeding sched-ules to demonstrate how little feed is required for a rabbit on a mainten-ance ration with the welfare of the rabbit in view. At this time our demand for sale stock, in the matter of weight, is a mistaken one. For ex-ample, a doe when first mated at seven months age may have a normal weight of say eight pounds. Her show room weight would be ten pounds and her full mature weight at eighteen months age eleven pounds. Contrast these weights with the weights of humans at twenty-one years, thirty years and forty-five years, and note the similarity. Yet mature sales stock sells better if at least ten per cent above normal weight.
The above paragraphs are intended to show that in some way it is wise to go according to nature, or at least as nearly so as possible while follow-ing a general order of things wherein artificial conditions prevail and arc, indeed, essential to the purpose in view.
M. L. Thayer.
Rabbits are being recognized as Farm Animals. To keep informed of their breeding progress requires some sort of systematic recording. Masters of the art of salesmanship in rabbitcraft need lineage records, pedigrees, registration records, etc. Sometimes the select rabbit sells the record, more times the record sells the select rabbit. The beginning of my interest in statistics closely followed that in rabbits because no one can understand his stock without facts defining their lineage. Growth power, coat char-acters and hereditary action governing them are essential parts of any successful rabbit breeder’s information.
From the scarcity of consistent records it is evident that few breeders really know their rabbits, yet one of the fundamental properties of this association is its registration system of rabbit lineage. The records of this system cover a mass of lineage data supposed to reflect the merits of our rabbits. It is just as reliable as the recording methods of rabbitmen. There is one outstanding fact about this record. It is being well kept. The association managers are doing their work well. The recording methods herein explained may assist those few rabbitmen having the incentive to do their work well. Consistent recording and use of lineage data is essential if correct pedigrees are had, and it is worth the effort.
Not long since a man looking over my record book remarked “What a lot of work this means. How do you have time for it, does it pay?” It requires two hours time daily to do my work in the rabbitry. I could do the essential recording in five minutes daily. Stock sold is pedigreed cor-
rectly, my book is evidence. No buyer ever yet declined one of my pedi-grees for a breeding rabbit, but many have insisted on the pedigree with more emphasis than upon the rabbit, would not buy the rabbit without it, the pedigree made the sale. Do records pay?
Breeding Record.
Several years ago I began a system of Breeding Record under columns headed DOE, MATED, BUCK, KINDLED, CLEARED, LOCATION, on one page, and REMARKS on the opposite page, a double page for each doe, practically covering her breeding period. Later on the entries were made in their order of occurrence, one doe after another regardless of their identity. In order to simplify the data certain letters were applied for certain breeds. American Blues were given the letters A, B, C, etc. Thereafter the individual does are numbered A1, A2, etc. French Silver does are identified by SI, S2, etc. White New Zealands by W, Blue Silvers or Glavcots by G, Chinchillas by Ch. Stud bucks are identified by name, usually abbreviated in the records, for example, “Col.” and “Jr.” for “Colonel” and “Junior.”
The Breeding Record covers the doe mated and date, the buck serving, when the litter is kindled, cleared (weaned), the hutch or pen occupied, and disposal of the litter. It is an aid to one’s memory of facts if the rabbits are associated with the location where raised. A doe is mated and remains in a numbered hutch until the litter are out of the next box, about three weeks old. Doe and litter are then placed in a numbered litter pen, L1, L2, etc. When the litter are cleared (weaned) the doe is returned to a hutch. If in good flesh and vigor she is mated when transferred. When youngsters not sold for meat and fur are separated, does from bucks, the does are placed in large developing pens identified as D-l, D-2, etc., about six to a pen, earmarked if from two or more litters. Bucks are generally matured singly in hutches set apart for a “buck colony,” although two or three bucks, litter-mates, will live peaceably in a litter pen, with no does about, until nearly mature.
All processes are marked with chalk over the hutch door or on the under side of the litter pen cover or above the developing pen door. This record is quickly placed or removed. For example, “A 6 9-15 Col.” means doe A6 was mated Sept 15 to buck Colonel. The same record is chalked on the litter pen when the doe and litter are placed there. The characters “W5 K 7-15” marked on a developing pen means that the does therein were kindled by doe W5 July 15th. All of these data are also in the record book.
My experimental work requires the keeping of several breeds, thus the need of letters and their attached numbers for identification. If raising but one breed, and that for business purposes, the use of letters and numbers would be made and similar records kept. The best of anyone’s herd of rabbits should be reserved for breeding stock and a stud book record cover all procedures. I will allow frankly that record work of value is quite distinct from smart salesmanship, as it is evident that statistical accuracy and salesmanship have not often harmonized. We hope they may do so when sound business methods and advanced production methods are more evident in the same persons.
Lineage Record
For ready reference and an aid in writing pedigrees a Lineage Record is useful. Most of us are familiar with the established form of pedigree, bracketing the sire and dam of a rabbit. As a rule, the grandparents is as far as most pedigrees require. Back of this the data is readily compiled from the breeding record if same goes back several generations. Taking the following form of pedigree chart and numbering the lines as shown it is apparent that the odd numbers 1, 3 and 5 are sires and the even numbers 2, 4 and 6 are dams.
If these records are kept in a handy sized durable book a double page is better than a crowded record. One line gives the lineage of a rabbit according to the data shown and quite a practical sized herd of breeding stock are fully identified on one double page. The amount of valuable data and its practical significance will appeal to anyone producing breeding stock and selling same on its substantial merits.
Sales Record
At the end of each year, or whenever the data is required, a Sales Record is of much advantage to anyone intending to follow rabbitcraft for any length of time. All breeding stock sales should be kept track of for future reference. With accurate records one is able to follow the cash balance and check up each month, also keep in touch with demand for breeding stock, sales of meat rabbits, etc. Any enterprise conducted along business lines requires such information for reference and guidance.
In the following form of Sales Record the double page entry has proved satisfactory. The data on the left hand page are explained by the headings. The meat sales might be handled better in a separate record giving more detail, but my own purposes are amply covered by notes giv-ing the number of young and mature rabbits sold and amounts received. The letter “M” signifies mature size and “Y” youngsters, the dividing line being at about four months age for rabbits in general, although some distinction is made for size also, as four months Chins will often go for heavy fryers while four months old from heavy breeds is nearer the “M” class.
Expense Record
A record of expenses is worth keeping for its value in comparing feed prices from season to season. Also it keeps one posted on the matter of economy of the feeding schedule. At the end of each month I have found it best to sum up an expense statement from my feed bills which are held for that purpose. For example, if one is holding a lot of mature sales stock and orders are few, it is well to know the effect of same as indicated by the expense involved. The record will show if the hay and grain bills are in proper relation.
The forms of records given are perhaps better adapted to my own use than to others, as printing comes natural and is part of my professional work, while writing is not easy. The order of the various data is not as important as the covering of the whole matter set forth. The importance of some of it may seem rather trivial to many rabbitmen, although it has all been essential to me in my journalistic and statistical work. With such records to draw upon there is no lack of material for timely articles in which a writer may confine his discussion to actual facts of which the record is at hand.
Records extending over several years should be kept in a durable book. It is natural that I prefer an engineer’s book for recording field notes as these books are made for durability under hard service. Again, it has been needful to have my book with me for reference in writing articles, giving talks, etc. Most bookkeepers of experience will prefer different methods and different forms while some rabbitmen will use different abbreviations from those given. The particular thing is to follow some competent method of accurate records of essential facts, the form of the records is less important.
In preparing an index for the record book the space to be allotted to the several subjects is important. The Breeding Record is most voluminous, although the Sales Record also covers many pages. A book recently filled up covered my records for about ten years. On the basis of this book a new one of eighty double pages was started with the work laid out as follows: Pages 1 to 30 Breeding Record, pages 31 to 42 Lineages, 43 to 60 Sales, 61 to 63 Expenses, and the balance statistics and general items.
Some question as to growth progress comes up and one may wish a record of weights of many youngsters. The daily feed cost should be checked up now and then and the record kept. There is certain to be occasional extreme weather conditions, disease epidemics or experimental undertakings the facts of which should be recorded.
Persons have remarked that keeping a record book is no assurance that its contents are reliable. It is true that the type of mind given to loose ideas is as likely to discredit a book record as any other sort of evidence. But that type of mind does not require records nor will it follow an orderly system. We do hear a great deal about certain kinds of folks, not exactly scientific in thought or action, but capable of being interesting friends or good neighbors. There are, however, others who want to learn for their own good and to be helpful in the larger ways. Such will regard our Registration System as a valuable property, will want its record to be authentic and thus perform its highest function. For such minds this chapter is presented.
Breeding Record
(Courtesy M. S. Thayer)
Lineage Record
(Courtesy M. S. Thayer)
Expense Record
(Courtesy M S. Thayer)
Sales Record
(Courtesy M. S Thayer)
While none of us hope to have anything of the kind infest our rab-bitry, at times these unwelcome visitors will appear and while by proper care and feeding we can keep them to a minimum, nevertheless, we should be prepared to handle them should they make their appearance.
First—Your hutches should be dry and comfortable, allowing plenty of room for each specimen and keeping same clean and sanitary at all times. By comfortable, I do not infer that they should be supplied with heat, but free from draughts, cold, damp winds, etc.
Good roomy hutches are very essential to the health of your stock and much better results and more profit will be derived from less stock in roomy comfortable quarters, than by trying to keep more than your space should permit by over-crowding.
Feed also plays an important part in keeping your stock healthy, and often over-feeding will bring as disastrous results as over-crowding.
Feed pure wholesome food and about what will be consumed in a reasonable length of time, and if food is found in the feed crocks at feeding time skip this individual until the next time. Following are the diseases most common among rabbits.
Ear canker is caused by one of the mange mites. It is infectious and fatal when neglected. Rabbits having ear mange, or “canker,” shake their heads, flap their ears, and try to scratch inside their ears with their hind feet. Inspection shows the ear to be more or less covered by a scab. This trouble can be corrected by softening the scab with soap and water and then applying a mixture of 20 parts olive oil and 1 part carbolic acid or cresol. Several treatments are necessary to effect a cure.
Disorders of the digestive organs come from feeding young rabbits too freely on wet and juicy greens, or from too radically changing their diet. Intestinal troubles may usually be corrected by a change of feed. For constipation, rabbits should have more greens and bran mash, and, if possible, more exercise. Castor oil may be administered if necessary. In a case of diarrhoea, green feed should be entirely replaced by dry hay and rolled oats or barley meal. Dandelion leaves arc recommended as a remedy for a disease of the kidneys evidenced by reddish-colored urine.
Mange is due to minute parasites which burrow into the skin, causing loss of hair and the formation of a scab. Treatment consists of cutting the hair around the scab, softening the scab with warm water and soap, and applying an ointment made by mixing 1 part sulphur with 3 part pure lard. This ointment should be applied two or three times daily until a cure is effected. After handling a mangy animal, it is advisable to rub the hands with the ointment to prevent their becoming infected.
When rabbits eat too much green stuff they often have indigestion, accompanied by an excessive flow of saliva running down over the chin and throat. A cure can be effected by rubbing fine salt or alum over the wet parts or by bathing them with a solution of boracic acid after they have been washed and wiped, and withholding all food for 12 hours. Milk, grain mash, and rolled oats arc suitable for animals recovering from an attack of slobbers. Rabbits fed judiciously arc not likely to have this disease.
The cause is too well known to need any explanation. The remedy: Change method of feeding, give a little natural greens, and cut down on the amount of oats and dry feeds usually given, feed a good mash in which there is plenty of bran and a little salt. Give at evening one teaspoonful of castor oil, and if one does is not sufficient repeat the next evening, although as a rule the first dose is sufficient. This I personally consider a better remedy than the use of Buckthorn.
Snuffles is a very contagious germ disease resembling catarrh, which in the acute form is quickly fatal, and in the chronic form, though less malignant, seems to be well-nigh incurable. The noticeable symptons are weakness, sneezing, and running at the nose. The nasal secretions are at first watery, then thick. At the first indications of this disease, steps should be taken to segregate the sick from the healthy animals. If it is necessary that one keeper care for both the sick and the healthy, he should change his clothes and disinfect his hands before attending the latter.
It is better to kill rabbits having snuffles and to burn or deeply bury the carcasses than to risk their spreading the disease through a rabbitry. It should be remembered, however, that the early symptons of the disease are much like those of a common cold, and while rabbits having these symptoms should be isolated immediately, extreme measures should not be taken while there is any doubt as to the identity of the disease.
Affected animals should always be placed in dry, well-lighted, and well-ventilated hutches, yet where they will be protected from sudden changes of temperature. They should be fed with care; dusty hay should especially be avoided. Every possible precaution should be taken to keep the hutch clean and the feed and water dishes sterilized. If the malady turns out to be only a cold the animals that have been affected may be returned to their regular quarters when fully recovered. Hutches and buildings occupied by rabbits having snuffles must be throughly cleaned and disinfected.
Young rabbits are sometimes affected with sore eyes, a disease due entirely to unsanitary conditions, and not found in clean, well-ventilated hutches. When adverse conditions are removed, it can be cured by using a solution made by dissolving 1 teaspoon of boracic acid in one gill of boiling water, applied cold. Young rabbits should be inspected daily, and the boracic acid solution applied with a small swab of sterilized cotton at the first appearance of pus in their eyes.
Sore hocks may be cured by treatment with a 1 per cent solution of cresol, comphorated oil, or iodoform, and by keeping the affected animals in clean dry earth, sawdust or straw, until the sores are healed. This treatment is suitable for other sores and also for wounds. The hind feet of rabbits kept on hard floors should be examined once a week. If they become bare, the soles should be greased daily with carbolated oil, petrolatum, or mutton tallow to prevent sores.
An infectious disease of the external genital organs, known as vent disease, may be recognized by a swelling of the affected parts and a discharge of mucus. Rabbits having the disease should be isolated in clean, dry hutches and treated until cured by bathing with a 2 per cent solution of copper sulphate or by applying zinc ointment or mercurial ointment.
Incurable, better kill the animal and relieve it of its suffering.
Found mostly in youngsters and caused by numerous things mainly feeding too much greens, change in weather and also poor milk supply from the mothering doe. Remedy: Cut out all greens; do not give bran in mash, and place animal in good, dry, clean coop. I usually give animals one half teaspoon castor oil to clean out their systems before giving further treatment. Feed animals entirely on dry food, giving plenty of stale bread and if mash is used add to same a little flowers of sulphur and cream of tartar.
By Al. W. Vance, R. V. S.
In writing on diseases of rabbits or other animals there are two ways of looking at the matter. One way, and the only sensible and logical way is to understand and make known to others, the true nature of the disease, that we may all cooperate to combat and eradicate the disease, if possible, and to prevent its further spread among animal life. The other, and wrong way, is to hide and keep secreted the fact that there is such a thing as disease. During recent years our domestic rabbit is finding a place among the nation’s food products, and that fact has made many breeders very zealous in the production of more rabbits. We find many breeders trying to rear litters of ten to fifteen rabbits, and seven to nine litters annually. This method of supplying the demand for rabbit meat can meet with but one certain result, failure. Not only does it bring failure to that individual producer but it leaves dissatisfaction and disgust in the minds of many otherwise desirable consumers of rabbit meat. We will follow such breeders and soon find that they have lowered the vitality of their stock until it can no longer resist the onslaught of the casual vermin, microbe, germs and parasites, which are always lurking in every favorable crack and crevice, waiting for a favorable opportunity to strike, with the result that his stock and surroundings are reeking with disease. Yet such breeders will tell you that they are helping to supply the demand for rabbit meat. Yes, they are helping to supply that demand, and at the same time they are helping to destroy the appetite for the most delicious meat ever produced for human consumption, by placing on the market and offering for sale a diseased product, which should have been destroyed, in fact should not have been produced at all. Yet when we censor such practices we are confronted with the argument that to advertise disease will kill the demand for the healthy product. To such arguments I wish to show a few facts pertaining to the milk supply in the United States as compared with that of England. We all realize, that in the United States, we are forever fighting against tuberculosis in cattle, and the results of such methods is that we are practically free from tuberculosis in the United States, while in England it has been looked upon in the same light as some would have us to do with the rabbit situation, KEEP STILL, and the result of such practice in England has brought to light the fact that during the week ending March 5th, 1927, out of forty-six samples taken from milk arriving in London from Leicestershire, Northampshire, Cheshire, and other milk producing counties, TWENTY-EIGHT, or about SIXTY ONE PERCENT, contained tubercule bacilli. It is said that THIRTY to FORTY per cent of the dairy stock of England is tuberculous. Many forms of tuberculosis in young people living in England are unknown in the island of Guernsey or in Australia where bovine tuberculosis does not exist. The same may be said of Canada and the United States freed from it in cattle. The same authority says, “If there were no tuberculosis in cattle there would be no tuberculosis in pigs, cats, dogs, horses, RABBITS, cavies and poultry and a very little in human beings, and in time none at all.” He further says, “The only preventative is REMOVAL OF THE
SOURCE OF INFECTION,” and he is right. But we cannot remove the source of infection if we “KEEP STILL” and we cannot win the battle against infection unless we fight for its removal. In ancient times entire races or tribes of people have been swept from the face of the earth by epidemics of disease. Certain species and families of animals have perished because they were unable to combat and build up a racial immunity to certain diseases. If man and animals are to survive, then MAN, who controls the physical welfare of ANIMALS, must successfully combat diseases of all forms. The ablest minds of every generation since history began have been concerned with an exhaustive study of the nature of disease, and with devising methods of cure and control. At this time people are living unnatural lives, burning the candle at both ends. Young people especially are using up their reserve energy that nature intended should be used later in life after body mechanism has ceased to function with its youthful speed and efficiency. Likewise, many species of animals are being forced beyond their natural standards of production. Dairy cows are. scientifically forced into extremes of milk production through careful selection of feed. Swine are forced to attain growth in six months where before they were given eight to ten months to acquire the same weight. Brood sows are handled in such a manner as to produce two litters a year, when nature intended them to raise but one. Thoroughbred horsese are fed to attain maturity at three years of age, so that they may be raced, while the horse under natural conditions does not mature until four or five years old. Chicks are more quickly developed by artificial brooding and forced feeding, while hens are supplied artificial daylight in order that they may produce more eggs. I do not say that all this is not of great economic value. Perhaps it is. But the fact remains that both MAN and ANIMALS are more subject to disease when they live outside the boundaries set up by nature. When an animal is forced beyond the natural limitations of the breed, it certainly is more prone to disease, for the reason that the body substance is injured. Years ago disease was thought to arise spontaneously, without any visible cause. Scientists have discovered the cause of most of the present day diseases, and have proven beyond a doubt that their conclusions are correct in most instances. As the resistance to disease is lowered by lowering vitality and by animals existing under conditions of congestion, disease will appear and take its toll unless every precaution is taken. The fight to gain the upper hand of disease has been a mighty one, fraught with great danger in many instances. But if we are to survive, we must continually wage bitter war against disease. The price of existence is Eternal Vigilance. There are so many common ailments of the rabbit that are of minor importance that we will deal here with that only which is considered of most importance, and that which is costing the rabbit breeders of America, as well as foreign countries, a high percentage of mortality, especially in young stock, and lowered vitality resulting in undersized and undeveloped matured animals, PARASITES.
We find today too many beginners making a start in the wrong way; starting with a herd of undersized, undeveloped, culls. They will tell you that they are going to “breed them up.” In other words they are going to start where our forefathers started many years ago. They are going to, for the sake of a few extra dollars, spend all their time and money learning that it doesn’t pay. They will sooner or later do one of two things: Give up and quit, or discard their first start and start over, but this time with reliable foundation stock. There are many reasons why their original start did not pay. The one most common is that the stock they had selected was purchased from unreliable breeders and was infected with one or many of the parasitic diseases common among rabbits. Among the different parasitic diseases we find one to be most dreadful, and that one is responsible for more deaths than all other causes known to science. That known as COCCIDIOSIS.
COCCIDIOSIS is a disease caused by a microscopic parasite of which there are several different and distinct varieties, among which we find
Coccidiosis of the liver, Coccidiosia oviform, Eimeria Falciformia or Eim-eria Staedea, Eimeria Perforans, or Intestinal Coccidiosis.
The liver is preeminently predisposed to parasitic invasion on account of its position as the field of distribution of the blood brought from the stomach and intestines by the portal vein. The embryos of parasites taken with the food, and which afterwards make their way into the blood vessels, tend to make the hepatic capillaries their first resting place, and to penetrate into the liver parenchyma. Another common channel of approach is through the common bile-duct.
This is especially common in the liver of rabbit, but has also been observed in MAN (Gubler, Dressier, Virchow, Leuckart), and it has been supposed, in swine, though the ovid organism found by Johne in the pigs liver were three times the size of the specimens found in the rabbit or in man.
The parasite belongs to the order PROTOZOA and class of SPORO-ZOA, and is known as the Coccidium Oviform, and Eimeria Stiedoe. It is an ovid body flattened at the ends, and consisting of protoplasmic contents, surrounded in the mature condition by a membraneous sac constructed in two layers and entirely devoid of celia, falgella or suckers. As found in the rabbit’s liver it is 30 to 40 micrometers long by 16 to 23 broad. Johne’s specimen found in the pig’s liver was 120 by 70 micrometers. The parasite is propagated by spores, formed in the interior of the parent organism and set free by the rupture of the cyst. Before the liberation of the spore it is transformed into a falciform body with amoeboid movements in the interior of the epithelium of the biliary duct, by which it is enabled to ascend the bile ducts from the intestines, and to enter the biliary epithelium. Balbiani has cultivated the sporocyst in water and moist sand, and found that the protoplasmic contents which often contract to a globular form within the cyst, will undergo segmentation in two or three days, and that in ten or fifteen days, in summer, the complete evolution will be effected. Segmentation takes place first in two, then four rounded sporo-blasts, then each becomes elongated, bends over or swells into a rounded ball at each end, between which the remnant of the protoplasmic spore can be seen. This elongated body next divides longitudinally into two, so as to leave one rounded knob at one end of each, and the resulting falciform body shows amoeboid movements and becomes the embryo sporozoon. When evolution takes place in water or damp mud outside the animal’s body, the spore-bearing cysts appear to be dried up and carried in the flying dust to be deposited in the food of the rabbit. When introduced into the alimentary canal the cyst is ruptured, and the freed spores in turn liberate the falciform bodies which penetrate the biliary ducts and epithelial cells by virtue of their amoeboid movements. The invaded epithelial cell swells out into an ovid form, which remains for a time adherent by a pedicle, but finally drops, and they accumulate in grumous or cheesy masses in the dilated biliary ducts. Microscopic examinations reveal the real nature of these deposits. The free sporcysts pass out with the bile into the duodenum and are expelled in the faeces, and undergo development in the damp earth or in water. Thus the parasite comes to abound in the soil of the rabbit warren and the resulting malady becomes a deadly enzootic. The enormous development of the sporozoa in the rabbit, is further explained by Morot, on the ground that this animal is in the habit of swallowing the fresh balls of faeces and subjecting them to a SECOND DIGESTION.
This is another coccidium which has been found in the intestinal epithelium of the mouse, and was found by Eimer and Rivolti in the liver of the rabbit. It is distinguished from the Coccidium Oviform, by the fact that the contents of the cyst are, in the process of development, converted into a single sporoblast instead of two. Its effects are comparable to those of Coccidium Oviform.
Lesions: These appear as small yellowish white tumors varying in size from a wheat grain to a pea, or even a hazel nut, in the surface of the liver. Incision shows that these tumors have a dense outer covering of the thickened walls of the biliary ducts, containing adherent masses of the hypertrophied and infested epithelium with free epithelium in process of fatty degeneration or distended by the sporocysts. Free sporocysts are also abundant not only in the thick pultaceous or cheesy contents of the tumor but in the bile. Most of these are ovid, but others are rounded, with in many cases a dark colored center, and bear a resemblance to blood globules.
SYMPTOMS: In mild attacks no very marked symptoms are shown, the rabbit surviving and even maintaining fair condition in spite of the coccidia. In the more severe attacks there is a gradual loss of appetite, of liveliness, a progressive emaciation, increasing pallor of the mucous membranes, with a pronounced icteric tinge, harshness and dryness of the fur, diarrhoea, and ascites. A microscopic examination of the faeces or of the sediment from the water in which they have been washed will detect the sporocysts. In England, where the disease was discovered about eighty-four years ago, by Sir Robert Carswell, it is still very prevalent and it is becoming alarming in the United States.
PREVENTION: This consists mainly in perfect cleanliness of the warrens or hutches. They must be kept dry and all faeces must be thoroughly and frequently removed. It has been found that dry food like grain, meal and hay is much safer than green food on which the coccidia often exist.
When a rabbit warren has become infested a separation of the apparently healthy should be made, and the diseased should be destroyed and their internal organs burned or boiled. The infested hutches and floors may be sterilized by boiling water, or live steam from a hose. They should also be sprinkled freely or washed with a saturated solution of copperas, or blue stone, or a solution of 1/200 sulphuric acid. Administering medicines in the food or water has this far been of little avail, so our only logical method of combating the disease is along the lines of strict prophylactic measures and hygienic husbandry. There is, however, a method of administering reliable remedies by means of a stomach tube, which requires some experience.
We have given here the life cycle of the parasite, generally, but it may be well to go into details of the different varieties of coccidium, their cause and effect, mode of transmission, etc., more for the benefit of those who are beginners, or who do not have access to microscopic examinations. We find, every summer, a loss of hundreds and thousands of young rabbits, usually between the ages of five to twelve weeks, and more so during the warm weather than during the winter months. We find our rabbits looking fine and apparently healthy at the morning feed, and by night time, some have died with no apparent cause, just died, and so it is the next day, and every day until finally the entire litter has died, and we are at a loss to understand the cause. I have heard them say “Somebody poisoned my rabbits/’ others will say the heat did it, or you should not feed raw grain, or a thousand different versions may be given, but if you will take a small portion of the intestinal contents to your laboratory and have them make a microscopic examination you will find the presence of coccidia, and you may rest assured that you have located the cause of your losses. Overcrowding on a certain space, and contamination of the ground, food and water with faeces containing coccidia, are the main factors in its spread. Wet and sunless weather plays its part. Hutches in which diseased rabbits have been are a fruitful source of the malady, but not infrequently the doe, although looking in the best of health, is a “carrier” of the parasite, which she passes with her faeces and thus soils the food and water. Although you are able to destroy the infection in the pens or surroundings for a given time, you will not destroy the infection in the animal. As long as a living animal is passing infection, so long will your
pens be infected. Recovered animals may remain immune, but fresh animals brought onto the premises will be liable to contract the disease as long as there is a “carrier”. Many of the scientific works conclude that several of the bacterial diseases of rabbits are of spontaneous origin, whereas in reality they have been introduced by stock purchased from an infected place, or brought home from shows of long duration, where the germ was contracted and passed on to other stock. Not a few of the conclusions of deficiency feeding are erroneously attributed to defective food, when they should have been attributed to contagion. Sometimes the incubating period runs a long silent course, until the climax is reached when the disease may appear acute and mortal. It is claimed that fully ninety per cent of the mortality in young rabbits is due to either the liver or intestinal form of coccidiosis, or both may coexist. This is not however a true infectious malady, but a parasitic one. It is not conveyed by the air, but through the medium of food and water. The disease may run a peracute or rapid form, the acute lasting two or three days, or the chronic, which persists for a week or even longer. In the peracute form there is rarely diarrhoea, but in the chronic form it is profuse and the animal wastes away and becomes POT BELLIED, and if it survives may remain a “Carrier.”
It is erroneous to conclude that if the liver is free from white spots, that there is no coccidia, because the intestinal form, which claims the majority of our mortality, does not manifest itself in the liver. There is but one method of ascertaining for certain whether the animal is infected with coccidia or not, and that method is examination under a high power microscope. Any other method is simply guess work. It is folly to attempt treatment for any ailment until you know what the ailment is. It is even worse to attempt treatment with medicines unless you know something of the medicines and their purpose.
There is a very great difference between understanding disease from study and experience and an imaginary analogy. Medicine is a science and its practice an art. Vivisectionists legally called are not the only experimenters, for there are many who create suffering by giving something about which they know nothing for a disease about which they know less.
By Prof. Heman L. Ibsen.
“SNUFFLES” has long been one of the deadliest diseases in rabbits. The affected animals seem to have a very bad cold and as a result their nasal cavities are clogged with a heavy yellow discharge. In most cases death follows within a few days after the first symptoms appear. Many practical rabbit breeders house their animals in outdoor hutches where they can be exposed to direct sunlight. This keeps the animals in good health as far as Snuffles is concerned. The breeders seem to be of the opinion that the fresh air is responsible for the health of their animals. It now seems that the ultra-violet rays in the sunlight bring about this effect.
Most experimenters with rabbits keep their animals indoors and for this reason are not able to expose them to sunlight. Experience here shows that when two per cent of cod-liver oil is fed with the grain ration the same effect is produced as by direct sunlight. The grain ration fed is made up mostly of rolled oats, a good absorbent of the oil. In severe cases in which the animal is too weak or unwilling to eat the grain, it has been found serviceable to administer several cc. of the pure oil by means of a medicine dropper. When this is inserted into one corner of the mouth there is no difficulty experienced in causing the animal to swallow.
* Contribution No. 72 from the Department of Animal Husbandry.
The oil replaces sunlight because of its high vitamin D content, this vitamin having approximately the same effect as ultra-violet rays. The vitamin A content is high also, but is not of very great importance since the alfalfa hay fed the animals furnishes it in sufficient quantity. When green alfalfa is fed the animals during the summer months they do not die of snuffles, but a considerable number cough, indicating that the vitamin D in the green alfalfa is not quite high enough to act as a complete preventive. Upon occasionally adding to the ration the usual amount of oil the cough ceases, and complete protection is afforded.
Rabbits have a certain form of snuffles known as nasal coccidiosis. This type has not been known to occur in the colony here and therefore it can not be stated to what extent the oil would act as a preventive.
For the past three winters the addition of the oil to the grain ration of guinea-pigs has been found very beneficial. The losses from pneumonia have been cut down very appreciably and there has been a general improvement in vitality. In previous years the animals were fed sprouted oats in addition to their grain and hay, but this was not sufficient. The sprouted oats is high enough in vitamin C to prevent scurvy but is either lacking or very low in vitamin D. When the latter was supplied by means of cod-liver oil the ration became comparatively perfect.
The feeding of liberal quantities of green alfalfa to guinea-pigs makes them practically immune to pneumonia. It would seem from this that for guinea-pigs the above green feed has sufficient vitamin D for protection. Either green alfalfa is higher in vitamin D than sprouted oats or, if it is not, protection is afforded because it is fed in much larger quantities.
There is still another possibility and that is that green alfalfa may be entirely or almost entirely lacking in vitamin D but contains some other substance which acts as a good substitute in building up resistance to either pneumonia or snuffles.
The present report is not intended to represent experimental work in nutrition but merely the observations of one interested in raising healthy animals for experimental work in other lines; in this particular case, genetics.
Kansas Agricultural
Experiment Station
By J. Hathaway Scharff.
Meats which form one of the principal parts of our meals and furnish our body with proper nourishment to build us up and keep our strength along with other foods. Man is an animal and animals must eat; and although it is written of him, “Thou shalt not live by bread alone.” There are several meats to use and the meats are being used up very fast too, and they are becoming less in supply on the markets as the population and advancement of civilization is becoming more in numbers than the supply can be raised or bred to stock up a substantial reserve supply. Poultry has become a large part of the meat supply. Why? Because the poultry breeders and dealers have organized and co-operated among themselves and have educated the public as to the usefulness and pleasure and profit that there is in chickens and have also kept up the supply strong enough to easily supply the demands as are made on them for their products.
Therefore, rabbits can and will become more used in the American homes and markets eventually as fast as the American breeders will organize and give out publicity and back it up with good clean rabbit meat at a fair profit to the breeder and consumer. Publicity and fair play will play a large part in this work, each and every one of the rabbit breeders can do their share and thereby gain in the success that is bound to come to this wonderful little animal for food.
Seventy-five per cent of the average men and women of today have a misconception of the value of rabbits as to meat.
There are several successful breeders and Associations that are real valuable to the rabbit industry and are affiliated with the parent Association, The American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, which is doing such wonderful work in bringing out the Government and Public realization that the rabbit is coming into its own. Let us all keep up the good work and success will be ours.
Many tasty and useful dishes can be made up from the rabbit.
Recipes made up for the preparation and cooking of rabbit meat are made up for the average family and are usually subject to change or corrections to suit your own taste as individual taste differs all over. But the recipes will give a foundation from which to work by. So being usually made up for the average small family and can be easily multiplied to suit the number of persons to be served, etc. All rabbits are about the same as far as the grain of the meat or the taste is concerned at a given age. Young rabbits from two to four months of age of course are better and more tender for frying, etc., than older ones. But older ones that are cooked properly and not too fast are very tasty. The older ones are very well suitable for salads and sandwiches, etc. An old rabbit roasted is fine, too.
Boost the rabbit for meat as much as possible, the Fur and Fancy ones will take care of themselves. Take a couple of good rabbit magazines and join your local Association as well as the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association and you will do your share in giving the rabbit Publicity for this and further generations.
Selection, Killing and Preparation of Rabbit for Food
Selection: If to be used for food, a rabbit should be selected that is healthy and plump. For fry or broil a young one from six weeks to three months is the best age (any breed).

Domestic Rabbit Meat
Cut up and wash a two-months old rabbit. Place
in pan with a small amount of boiling slightly salted
water. Let boil for about three-fourths of an hour. Drain well, if there be any water left in pan, save it to put in gravy. Now dip the pieces of rabbit in crushed cracker crumbs, salt and pepper and fry quickly and carefully to avoid burning. in hot fat until a golden brown color. Drain off fat and make the gravy with the water left from boiling the rab-bit and some cream or rich milk.
Rabbit Cooking Recipes FREE.
Colored Rabbit Meat Posters published by The A. R. and C. B. A., Inc., to be hung in Meat Markets, etc., where Domestic Rabbit Meat is sold. These Posters are 10 x 14 inches in size and should be framed so as to protect them and they will last indefinitely.
For Stew, Fricassee or Roast from four months up. The older it is the more it will need to be cooked.
If to be sold for meat, it is neat and more business like to take a piece of cheese cloth to wrap around the carcass, most large rabbitries do this, it costs about a cent or so per rabbit, but is well worth the investment, as it will make a good impression on the customer.
Whom to Sell To: There are several means and ways that rabbits can be marketed and sold. First usually the home trade is considered as that is the most profitable per pound. Then the Butcher’s by contract, Hotels, Restaurants, Industrial Cafeterias, Steamships, College and Camp Kitchens, etc.
If you only have a few rabbits you can build up a very profitable business with the home or family trade, if you have a large amount of meat stock on hand most of the year you can sell by contract to the larger consumers as spoken of above. You will have to do the work of getting up trade and holding it as it is like every other business, it will not grow by itself, but if you do try and build up a nice meat trade in any of the above ways you will be well repaid for the time you put into this business.
Meat Posters: The Meat Posters found on another page are very good for giving publicity and should be placed in meat markets and other markets that are handling your rabbit meat and also a supply of the A. R. & C. B. A. Cooking Receipt Circulars furnished.
Herewith are a few ways and uses that can be made up with the meat of the useful animal called “Rabbit”. These recipes are for the average family, taste and customs vary all over, but they can be used as a foundation from which to work on.
Rabbit Sandwich: One of the best ways to prepare the meat for sandwiches, is to blanch a good sized rabbit. That is put in cold water until it comes to a boil. Pour off water. Cover over again with cold water with the following.
One six to ten or more pound rabbit (dressed) in six or eight pieces, salt and pepper to taste.
1/2 cup carrots
1/2 cup onion
1/2 cup celery
1 tomato or 1/2 cup tomato puree.
Let simmer on stove slowly until meat is ready to fall from the bone (if young rabbit is used be careful not to cook too long). Skim off the impurities as fast as they raise, when cooked as the above drain off stock, let meat stand until cool enough to handle, remove all meat from the bones in large pieces as possible, except hind legs which can be sliced with a knife, other parts can be diced with a knife.
Have the lettuce cleaned and in cold or iced water to make it crisp then butter bread and place a piece of lettuce on bread with some rabbit meat then another layer of lettuce then top piece of bread, mayonnaise dressing can be added if desired. Season all sandwiches with salt and pepper also.
Same as above can be made adding mayonnaise with chopped celery, onion and pimento or tomato sliced, wrap them up in waxed paper if they are made up ahead of time to be eaten as that keeps them fresh and tasty.
Babbit Club Sandwich: Toast three pieces of bread nice and brown. On first piece of toast place lettuce leaves, sliced tomato, onion, sliced thin, little spoon of mayonaise dressing, place second piece of toast on another lettuce leaf sliced and chopped rabbit meat seasoned, two small slices of fried cooked bacon put a little more mayonaise dressing if desired, then the third piece of toast. Put a couple of tooth picks in the toast to help hold them together and put an olive on top of each toothpick if desired, cut from one corner to other making the sandwich in two triangle pieces.
Plain Babbit Salad: Three cups of cold diced rabbit meat.
One cup chopped celery.
One half cup chopped onion.
One half cup chopped green peppers.
Two tablespoons chopped parsley.
Two cups vinegar.
One cup salad or olive oil.
One tablespoon mustard.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Mix the above in a large bowl, serve on a plate or platter with plenty of lettuce leaves, mayonaise dressing can be served with it.
Potted Babbit: Cut up in small pieces a large rabbit of six or eight pounds (dressed weight) put into a small bake pan with a little fat and the following:
One cup sliced carrots.
One cup sliced onions.
Two tomatoes sliced or a small can of tomatoes.
One teaspoon pickling spice, salt and pepper to taste.
Let this brown well in oven then add water enough to barely cover, stir around well, let bake until tender. Just before removing from oven, mix one cupful of flour with three cups of cold water strain this into pan and let cook about ten minutes stirring often. Remove from oven and serve with mashed potatoes if desired.
Babbit Omelette. Plain: This is for a family of four to six. If smaller omelette is desired use less of each in proportion.
Heat a couple of ounces of butter in a frying pan, a French omelette pan is best that has round edges.
Mix the following:
Twelve eggs.
Two ounces bread crumbs (White bread).
Two cups diced rabbit meat.
One-fourth cup chopped onion.
Tablespoon chopped parsley.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Mix all the above, rapidly cook on stove, turning at intervals, place in oven for two minutes and remove to serve on plate.
French fried potatoes are nice with above.
Babbit Soup: 1 cup concentrated rabbit broth
3 cups milk
4 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon salt
Few grains pepper
1 tablespoon onion juice
Add the milk to a broth made from rabbit bones (see rabbit pie recipe) and season with onion juice, salt, pepper, and parsley or celery leaves if desired. When it is almost boiling, stir in carefully the flour which has been moistened with part of the cold milk or with water. Stir until the soup is of a creamy consistency and serve at once.
Fried Rabbit: Dress rabbit, cut in pieces, dredge with flour, salt and pepper. Heat 4 tablespoons of fat in a frying pan, drop in the rabbit, and fry slowly for 30 to 45 minutes, depending upon age of animal. Serve with a cream gravy, using the fat in which the rabbit was fried.
Photo by J. Hathaway Scharff
Fried Babbit
Fricassee of Rabbit: Skin, draw and wash rabbit and cut into pieces. Dredge with flour, salt and pepper. Brown in 4 tablespoons of fat. Change from frying pan to stewpan, cover with boiling water and cook slowly until tender. Remove meat from broth. Thicken broth with 1 tablespoon of flour to 1 cup of broth. Boil vigorously for a minute or two, then add dumplings; cover closely and allow to steam 15 to 20 minutes. Pour dumplings and gravy on hot serving platter.
Dumplings: 2 cups flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons fat
Sift together flour, baking powder, and salt. Cut in fat. Beat egg well and add milk. Combine the two mixtures. Drop by spoonfuls into slowly boiling gravy. Cover closely and allow to steam 15 to 20 minutes.
Spiced Rabbit: 1 rabbit
6 slices bacon
1 medium-sized onion
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon cloves
Brown Sauce—
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon flour
Skin, draw, and wash rabbit and cut it into pieces. Put it into stew-pan with bacon cut into small pieces, onion cut fine, salt, pepper, and whole cloves in a bag. Cover with boiling water and cook slowly until tender.
Carmelize the sugar and add water thickened with flour well blended with 2 tablespoons of water. Pour this brown sauce over the spiced rabbit and allow the whole to simmer 2 hours.
Casserole Rabbit: 8 slices bacon
1 large rabbit cut into pieces
2 medium-sized potatoes
2 small onions
2 cups hot water
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Fry the bacon until light brown and remove it from the fat. Use this bacon fat to brown the rabbit, which has been dipped in flour. Arrange in a casserole the pieces of rabbit, the strips of bacon, and slice onions and potatoes, and dredge lightly with flour. Four water over all. Cover and cook slowly 2 hours.
Photo by J. Hathaway Scharff Rabbit en Casserole
Baked Rabbit: 1 rabbit
3 cups cream or thin white sauce
6 slices bacon
Flour for dredging
Skin, clean and wash the rabbit, and split it into two pieces, cutting along backbone. Rub with salt and a little pepper, place in a roasting pan, and dredge with flour. Lay strips of bacon across the rabbit. Pour over and around it 3 cups of the white sauce or 3 cups of cream. Bake 1 1/2 hours, basting frequently. Serve hot with the cream gravy. The liver may be boiled until tender, chopped, and added to the gravy before serving.
Rabbit in Tomato Sauce: 2 tablespoons lard or butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 1/2 cups tomato pulp and juice
1 large onion (chopped fine)
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
3 cups water
1 large rabbit
Skin, clean, and wash the rabbit and cut it into pieces at the joints. Dip in flour and brown in a little fat.
Put the lard or butter in a deep skillet or a roasting pan, and stir in the flour. Add the chopped onion and the tomato juice with the seasonings and the boiling water and cook for 5 minutes. When this is boiling put in the browned rabbit. Cover and let simmer on top of the stove or in the oven for one hour. The tomato sauce cooks down and gives a very good flavor to the rabbit.
Babbit Croquettes. Run meat from a previously parboiled rabbit or left over rabbit meat through a food chopper, place this chopped meat into a sauce pan over a slow fire, add a little flour at a time and a little of the parboiling water, also a little at a time until this becomes a pasty mess easily handled, add to this chopped onion and celery that has previously been cooked in sauce pan with a little fat or butter. Mold size desired in palm of hands to form a shape like a cone. After all meat has been shaped up dip each croquette first in flour, then in egg and milk batter, then in cracker crumbs, fry in deep fat until golden brown, serve with creamed or French friend potatoes. Creamed sauce and chopped parsley can be used to garnish.
Photo by J. Hathaway Scharff Rabbit Croquettes
Babbit Pot Pie. Take a rabbit, an old one will do very well. Parboil until done or tender; drain off water which should be saved for use later; cut up in suitable pieces; two or three onions a stalk or so of celery and a few potatoes, cut this up; one small can of tomatoes or tomato puree juice of half a lemon, one half tea spoon of pickling spice; then cover this over with water from parboiling; add salt and pepper to taste. Cook for half hour or so until tender, thicken this with a little whitewash made of flour
Photo by J. Hathaway Scharff
Creamed Rabbit

and water strained, when thick enough to suit, make a biscuit dough and roll out for size of baking dish used. This can be served with mashed potatoes or just as baked.—Courtesy H. J. Scharff.
Creamed Rabbit: Take one old rabbit boil until tender, or a couple of young ones, which will not need very much boiling to make tender. Drain off water which should be saved for the cream sauce. Make a cream sauce with one egg beaten in rapidly with the juice of one lemon, season with chopped parsley and salt and pepper to taste.
Rabbit Pattie: Make a few patties of pie crust or they can be purchased at a bakery or caterer.
Take any amount of cold rabbit meat, chop up into small squares, make a rich cream sauce of well beaten eggs that is rapidly beaten into milk that has been heated to scalding point in a double boiler. Use nutmeg, juice of lemon and parsley with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot. Use French fried potatoes or potato chips with these.
By J. L. Hirstine
When you really want a treat;
Something that is good to eat;
Nothing will surpass a rabbit.
Start today and get the habit.
Finest dish you ever tasted.
Never any is ever wasted;
Sandwiches or a real nice roast;
They are good for any toast.
They are valuable in many ways,
Not only for meat, the rabbit pays.
Take care of the furs and have then tanned.
The market is good—always a demand.
Nothing prettier this wide world over
Than a pretty rabit eating clover.
If you want to be prosperous and money—have it,
Buy a good stock of New Zealand Red rabbit.


In canning of rabbit meat it is advisable not to try it unless you are more or less familiar with the canning of fruits and vegetables, as this process requires more or less experience.
Recipe No. 1.
Take a nice plump rabbit of any age. Kill in usual manner, let it hang up to cool off for a while then wash in clean cool water. Cut into quarter sections or more depending on size of rabbit. The meat should be placed in cheese cloth and boil until the meat can be removed from the bones easily; remove from boiling liquid and remove meat from bones.
Pack closely into glass jars; fill jars with pot liquid, after it has been concentrated one half; add a level teaspoon of salt per quart of meat, for seasoning; put rubbers and caps on jars into position, not tight. Sterilize for the length of time given below for the particular type of outfit used:
Water bath, homemade or commercial.................3 hours
Water seal, 214 degrees............................3 hours
Steam canner, 5 pounds pressure....................1 hour
Steam canner, 10 to 15 pounds pressure.............1 hour
Remove jars; tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints, wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching.
Recipe No. 2.
Kill, clean and cut up, as above recipe; scald in boiling water and dip at once into cold water. Pack immediately into glass jars; fill with boiling water; add level teaspoon of salt per quart; put rubbers and caps of jars into position, not tight. Sterilize for the length of time given below for the particular type of outfit used:
Water bath, homemade or commercial ...............3 hours
Water seal, 214 degrees...........................3 hours
Steam canner, 5 pounds pressure...................2 hours
Steam canner, 10 to 15 pounds pressure............1 hour
Remove jar; tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching.
Young Rabbit Meat—Fried.
After cleaning and preparing the rabbit for frying, season and fry as though preparing for serving directly on the table.
Cook until the meat is about three-fourths done. If a wholesome fat rabbit is used it will be a fine dish. When done about three-fourths, drop this hot, fried rabbit into a hot glass jar large enough to hold same without crowding. Pour liquid from pan or griddle into the jar over the rabbit. Place rubbers and cap of jars into position, not tight. Sterilize for length of time given below for the particular type of outfit used:
Water bath, homemade or commercial.............90 minutes
Water seal, 214 degrees........................60 minutes
Steam canner, 5 pounds pressure................40 minutes
Steam canner, 10 to 15 pounds pressure.........30 minutes
Tighten jars to test joints.
Should you be unsuccessful at first time, try again as it seems more complicated than it is, after you once do it you will want to can all your surplus rabbit meat as you need it.
In various Government Bulletins published by The Department of Agriculture Domestic Rabbit Meat is recommended very highly as follows:
Domestic rabbit meat is delicious, tender, and fine flavored.
It is firm and white, like the breast of chicken.
Far superior to wild rabbit and always in season.
Rich in protein and economical.
Also All Those Who Have Given It a Trial
If you have never had the pleasure of enjoying this wonderful dish, ask your butcher today for Domestic Rabbit Meat and keep after him until he secures it for you.
We are fortunate in having the United States Government aiding us in developing our industry and while this work comes under the read of the Department of Agriculture, the work is in charge of the Bureau of Biological Survey and as the Bureau’s work is divided in different Departments, specializing in the different branches of work handled by their Department. The rabbit and other small fur bearing animals are in charge to a great extent of the Fur Reserve Department.
Mr. Prank Ashbrook is in charge of this Department and is a very able young man and it is a pleasure for one to meet him and discuss the work of his Department alone and the many questions pertaining to same is very interesting.
Mr. Ashbrook is interested in his work “Heart and Soul” and also in the development of our industry and we all appreciate his good work in our behalf. I have had much correspondence with the Department through him and he assures me his Department is always ready and willing to assist us in any manner possible.
I also receive letters from beginners referred to our Association by this Department and the fact the Government is assisting us is a great help, as it is to any industry in its infancy.
Various Bulletins have been printed and distributed throughout the country by the Government pertaining to our industry and much other work beneficial to its development is carried on daily and much more is to be done by the Government in the future, as it takes time to learn what the requirements are and what the best methods are for aking care of the work pertaining to a new industry, such as ours might be called to-day.
By Harry G. Herrlein
It has been my desire for some time to state a few words to my fellow breeders on the matter of taking pelts and dressing the carcass for market. As the pioneer in establishing the largest Rabbit farm in the world I find it interesting to quote from my personal experience in handling over three thousand head of pedigreed stock at one time, housed in individual hutches.
In summing up an animal’s qualifications, the condition of the fur is an important factor. Let us assume that we are selecting an animal for market. Prime fur, sound health, perfect color and standard in size and weight constitutes the features to be given first consideration.
PRIMENESS—By running the finger lightly and slowly over the hair toward the head, the density of the fur at the base is seen. The hair at the base should be thick, running uniform over the entire pelt. A rubbed or empty spot on the pelt immediately lowers its value unless the rubbed spot appears near the edge. In that case it can easily be cut away.
MOULTING—This can easily be determined by the slight difference in color at various stages. As a rule the moult begins at the head and nape, gradually following over the back to the tail. The moult is easily followed as the new hair will have a tendency to show up brighter and at the junction of the new and old hair there is usually a break in the ticking resembling a line over the body.
COLOR—In the Chinchilla the body or base fur is slate blue, graduating into pale gray, pearl gray, white and finally tipped with silver black. The color effect in general should resemble as near as possible the real Chinchilla Lanigeria. A light, rusty or off-colored pelt is usually graded as a cull or throw-out. In the Havana a dark chocolate brown will be given preference in grading over the rusty-yellow-brown. The base fur of the Havana should show silver gray with a tint of brown, graduating into blue brown. In all solid colors, such as Blue Beveren, Blue Flemish, American Blue, Lilac, Gouda, Sitka, and all varieties of White, the color condition should be uniform without a break to indicate a moult spot.
PHYSICAL CONDITION—In safeguarding the future possibilities of the individual breeder and the industry itself, it is only fair that an animal with the slightest indication of unsound health should be passed up in selecting stock for market. A beginner will be more likely to pay no attention to a slight cold or a mild case of ear canker. This is dangerous business for all concerned.
Let us now assume that Mr. Bunny has come up to the foregoing qualifications and some portion of the building is screened off against flies, and equipped with such minor facilities as a pair of heavy, headless nails sharpened to a point and driven into the wall about eight inches apart and about five and a half feet from the floor, fresh running water at hand, a small chopping block, pelt stretchers, a solution of one part alum, one part borax, one part sal-ammoniac, two parts table salt thoroughly dissolved in water, and last a good sharp pelting knife.
KILLING—The most effective method for killing, is to take a firm hold of the hind legs with your left hand so that the head hangs down and the animal’s back is toward your right. Either with a blunt stick or the edge of your right hand, strike a hard blow behind the ears, breaking the neck if possible.
SKINNING—Hang the animal, back to the wall, on the two nails, by piercing the skin between the tendons and leg bone above the juncture of the hock and hind legs. Your knife can be none too sharp and pointed,
Courtesy Mrs. Etta Powers Fur Coat
ove cut shows a beautiful fur coat made from New Zealand Rabbit their natural state. Nothing in the fur line could be neater or more
The first incision should be made beginning as near to the foot as possible and cut downward and along the center of each leg. Both incisions of the legs should meet about one inch under the tail. It is assumed that the incisions are not deeper than the skin. Both hind legs of the skin are now free from the body except at the feet. Cut the leg bone as near to the foot as possible, leaving the claws on the pelt. Both legs are now free. At the tail cut the pelt free from the body, leaving the tail on the pelt. Holding the skin of both legs and back in the left hand and cutting away the body tissues with your right, the pelt is drawn from the body in glove form, until the ears and front paws are reached. Cut the front legs as near to the foot as possible, leaving the claws on the pelt. The head is not removed until the pelt is completely drawn. Ears should be left on the pelt. You now have a pelt with all characteristics, only eyes, nose and mouth holes showing. It is put to one side until the dressing of the carcass is completed.
DRESSING—One incision, from tail to breast should suffice, exercising care against opening the intestines. Beginning at the tail, remove all loose particles except heart and liver. These should remain intact, removing the gall with care. The carcass is now placed on the block and with a small cleaver or sharp knife remove the head. Place the carcass back on a hook suspended from one hind leg and allow to bleed for about one-half hour. In the meantime prepare your plain cold water for washing carcass. After the carcass has bled, wash it thoroughly and rinse several times. It should then be dried with a clean cloth. In preparing for market, the carcass wrapped in waxed paper gives an attractive and appetizing appearance. In wrapping, place carcass on a table, back down, hind legs toward you on a piece of butcher twine about twelve inches long. The hind legs are forced into the body and toward the neck, with precaution against tearing the flesh at the rump. Front legs straightened alongside the breast. The twine is brought around the shoulders to the breast where all four legs are securely tied. For packing in quantity this method will be found most suitable.
STRETCHING AND DRYING—A wood pelt stretcher made of most any scrap material should measure about two feet long, or a stretcher made from No. 9 wire graduating from one end for a distance of eighteen inches and the balance of the six inches to a point. The wide end to measuree nine inches. Furriers prefer the pelts stretched the long way, glove fashion.
Wire Stretcher
After the pelt is drawn taut over the board, hide side out, fasten the legs and tail with small nails or tacks to the board. It is now ready for the salt bath. With a stiff brush apply the foregoing solution thoroughly, covering only the surface of the hide. Care should be taken against allowing the solution to run beneath the hide through the end. It is not injurious to the fur but will take longer to dry properly. When hanging the pelt to dry, the head end of the pelt should be at the top, and select a cool dry place free from flies. After about the third day, it is well to lay the pelt while still on the stretcher, in the sun for several hours guarding against “blow-flies.” When satisfied that the pelt is thoroughly dry, remove from stretcher and beat it thoroughly with a thin stick or bamboo rod. This is done to remove all possible traces of “blow-fly” eggs. Using a stiff straw brush the pelt should be brushed thoroughly. It is now ready for storage or shipping to market. If stored on the breeder’s premises, precaution should be taken to select an air-tight box, lined with tar-paper. Each pelt is wrapped in newspaper and camphor flakes sprinkled in box between pelts.
Advice to Pelt Shippers
The greatest problem the buyer of domestic rabbit skins has to contend with is the condition in which pelts arrive on the market. Many breeders having had little experience in the preparing and handling of rabbit skins for shipment do not realize that a skin, to be of value on the market, must be in good condition in regard to primeness before taken from the animal, as well as good condition relative to preparation after taken from the animal and packed for shipment. I would therefore suggest you read the following instructions carefully, before sending in a shipment, as it may save you disappointment in your returns, also unnecessary correspondence.
MOULT DETECTION—Moult conditions are usually visible on the animal through a break in ticking. When no such break is visible, run hand over fur fast but gentle, and at the rump, pull the fur slightly. If no hair leaves the body and no break in ticking appears, pick up the animal and examine it carefully by blowing into the fur, watching for new hair at the body or close to skin. If no new hair is visible, a closer examination of the skin in various parts of the body may reveal dark discoloring. Such discoloring indicates moult or unprimeness.
TAKING AND DRYING—All pelts should be taken in glove fashion or cased, leaving tail, feet, head fur and ears on pelt wherever possible. Care should be exercised in preventing blood to get on fur. Blood and hutch stains usually leave slight discolor after dressing pelt. Discolor or stain on pelt lowers value. Place pelt over wooden or galvanized wire stretcher and allow to dry under normal conditions about four days, protected from flies and sprayed or sprinkled with a reliable raw fur preservative. Abnormal drying conditions are damp or rainy.
STORING—Select an airtight box and line it with either news or tar paper. Grade your pelts according to color and place newspaper between each pelt when storing. When sufficient have been accumulated to warrant marketing, pack in burlap and ship via express or freight.
A PRIME CONDITION—Unprime pelts will show black or dark discoloring in patches on hide side of pelt and in most speciments a break in ticking is also visible. The best price is paid for large pelts with soft, dense fur about one inch to one and one-half inches in length, even in color and prime in condition. If fur is coarse and has a fly back action, we suggest cutting down on barley feeding by adding either a small portion of sunflower or linseed.
FELT GRADING—In grading pelts the following table will be found most convenient to the beginner, and judgment should only be passed after the closest examination, using the color standards as a guide:
Finished Product
Coat from Blue Flemish Rabbit Skins
POOR CONDITION—Pelts are shipped that are poorly stretched, green (wet), torn and wormy. There is no excuse for wormy pelts to enter market. There is a reliable raw pelt preservative on the market to prevent such condition, but wet pelts should be dried in a screened-off portion of the building as a protection against blow-flies. A torn pelt is at times overlooked if the rip is at the edge, but many pelts come in torn in the center or body. Such a tear immediately reduces the value of the pelt. Green or wet pelts are simply not bought. Many breeders, whether through ignorance, ship in wet pelts and allow them to dry in the package while en route. This is a very poor practice and should not be done at all. If you are unable to stretch them over a stretcher, open the pelts up the belly and nail them down flat until dry. Above all, do no ship wet pelts to market and expect to get anything for them. A poorly stretched pelt, usually shows up with many wrinkles and the hide is crooked in form, etc. It should not take any man a minute longer to place a pelt over a stretcher properly and straight. Take out the wrinkles at the neck, tail and hind edges and you take out a breeding nest for vermin. It is also advisable when skinning to remove all fat and flesh with the carcass, thereby leaving the pelt free from fat and food for vermin.
The foregoing suggestions contained in this articles are based strictly upon practical experiences and are being applied with the most satisfaction by the larger breeders of rabbits in America.
Rabbit skins should always be saved, as they have a value, depending on their condition, and are regularly in demand. A skin may be prepared for market with less trouble than is required to bury it. It has only to be drawn, flesh side out, over a piece of thin board or No. 9 gauge gal-venized wire, shaped to give it a uniform tension, and hung in a shady, well ventilated place, as under an open shed, until it becomes bone dry. Artificial heat should not be used to dry skins if it is possible to dry them otherwise before there is danger of their becoming sour or mouldy.
Usually after hanging a week or ten days skins may be removed from the stretchers.
Unless one is killing a great many rabbits, it is usually preferable to sell the dry skins to a local fur buyer, who will bale and ship for several producers. When there are a large number of skins they may be piled between upright scantlings as stove wood is piled and kept thus until enough have accumulated to make a bale. They should then be baled under lever or screw pressure, securely bound, and covered with burlap before being shipped.
If rabbit skins are intended for home use and not for sale, they may be tanned by anyone. However, amateur tanners are seldom able to secure as good results as can professional fur dressers, for the pliability of a pelt depends largely upon the amount of labor put upon it, and the furrier does his labor by the aid of modern machinery.
For home tanning, skins should be taken off “open” instead of “cased”; or, if cased skins are to be tanned they may be split down the median line of the belly. The skin should be scraped on the flesh side to remove all adhering bits of flesh. Many amateur tanners are accustomed to use alum to fix the hair, but this is not recommended, as alum hardens the skin and adds to the labor required to make it pliable.
A good tanning liquor is composed of one quart of salt and one-half ounce of sulphuric acid to each gallon of water. As the acid corrodes metal, this liquid should be kept in a glass or a wooden container. Babbit

skins will be tanned in this mixture in from 3 to 4 days, but they may be kept in it for any length of time without injury.
When removed from the tanning liquor skins should be washed sev-eral times in soapy water, wrung as dry as possible, thoroughly rubbed on the flesh side with a cake of hard soap, folded in the middle lengthwise over a line, hair side out, and left to dry. When both outer surfaces are barely dry and the interior is still moist, the skins should be laid over a smooth, rounded board or plank and scraped on the flesh side with the edge of a worn flat file or other blunt-edged tool. In this way an inner layer of tissue is removed and the skins become nearly white in color. They should then be stretched, rubbed and twisted until quite dry. If parts of the skin are still hard or stiff it should be returned to the tanning solution and the process repeated until the entire skin is soft. Fresh butter or other animal fat worked into skins while they are warm and then worked out again in dry hardwood sawdust, or extracted by a hasty bath in gasolene, increases their softness. Home-dressed skins should be matched for color before being made up into garments.
shine. Clean hutches once a week. Disinfect hutches after cleaning once a week; use plenty of shavings or straw for bedding. Cavies are clean and there is no odor connected with them. Cavies do best where temperature is even and does not fall below 40 degrees above zero, but will do best if above.
If Cavies are properly fed, you will have no trouble raising them successfully. Proper attention should be paid to the feeding. Be regular, not any old time you happen to think of them. They are just like us humans when meal time comes—they are waiting. Give your Cavies a variety of feed as they like a change as well as we do. During the summer feed them dandelions, lawn-clippings, clover, celery, alfalfa, Swiss-chard, and most any kind of grass or weeds, but avoid poisonous weeds. In addition to green food, they should have clean oats fed either whole or rolled. In winter feed hay, such as alfalfa, timothy, clover or Prairie hay and oats. Car-
Red English Cavy
rots, mangolds, beets, cabbage or sprouted oats is good green feed. They should have salt. They can do without water if plenty of roots are fed but should have water if fed on dry ration but do best with green food. A bran mash of two parts bran and one part rolled oats, a little oil meal and salt to taste, just wet enough to mix so it will crumble. Alfalfa is the best hay as it builds bone and supplies lime which is necessary for health.
Careful attention should be paid to breeding. Do not breed cavies in poor condition. If in poor condition, inferior stock is the result. So make your start with a few or as many tested breeders of the best quality as you can afford, old enough to produce strength, size, and vigor whether the long, silky-haired Peruvian, the Rosetted curled Abyssinian, or sleek, smooth-coated English. Do not breed females under six months old and don’t use males under five months old. Cavies carry their young from sixty to seventy days; they produce from one to six young at a time; three is a good average.
When more females are in one hutch, one will help nurse the other’s young, but it is better to have each female separated if anyone has room; better cavies is the result. One male and five females make a good pen. When females show signs of being with young, separate from male. Leave female with young four or five weeks, then separate, placing females and males by themselves as they become sexually mature when six or seven
weeks old. After weaning the young, give the female a week’s rest and then place them again with males. By so doing you can get four litters a year from each female without injuring her and your females will be good for four or five years or longer.
Cavies are useful for medical and research work as well as for food, fur and fancy. Most laboratories use them from eight to twelve ounces in weight; others want them of larger size. The Cavy is known as the Human Life Saver because it gives its own life to let others live. Cavies are used in the testing and standardizing of serums and anti-toxins; in the Wasserman test, in the preparations of Black leg, Tetatus, diphtheria, yellow fever, and other serums, guinea pigs are needed. The Cavy, like all the other animals has its place in the show world. Every Live Stock Show has an exhibit of Cavies. They are on display from coast to coast at the shows. A visit to one of these shows will convince one of the popularity of the Cavy and the demand that exists for fancy, well-bred Cavies.
Cavies are really not subject to many diseases. Their susceptibility to ailment is closely related to quality, quantity and kind of food eaten. Feeding cavies at irregular times and in improper amounts are generally the sources of the common causes of inflammation affecting the stomach digestive tract, from which losses among the animals may occur. Too sud‘ den changes in temperature in localities where the freezing point varies considerably and also having insufficiant and improper ventilation are common causes of pneumonia. Direct drafts will also cause this disease. If you will take due precautions as to feeding, cleanliness of surroundings, pure water, abundant room and reasonable even temperature and proper ventilation, you will prevent almost any of the diseases cavies are subject to. Some authorities state that cavies are practically immune from disease; however, this is not correct. In caring for your cavies they should not be subject to wet hutches or dampness, which is generally the common cause of fatalities among them.
The following diseases as listed with their symptons and treatments, will be of great service in caring for the ailments of the cavies if followed carefully.
Cold and Pneumonia.—Symptons: Cavy breathes fast, sides work in and out, hair stands up, animal is in dumpish condition and sits in the corner of the hutch, eats but little. You can generally detect a cavy well developed with this disease by mucus rails obstructing the breathing of the animal, which causes a slight roaring.
Causes: Caused from drafts, sudden change in temperature, overfeeding of green food and keeping them in wet hutches. Sometimes contracted by cavies being placed in a crowded express car and express piled on top of the boxes they are shipped in, causing the cavies to sweat and become overheated. In this condition they are placed in cold express office where there is considerable draft. Cavies will contract an acute cold in six hours, which generally kills them inside of twelve hours. However, if they pass over the acute condition, which is up to twelve hours, then they pass into the chronic stage, and they will prolong a considerable time either showing improvement or death.
Treatment: Separate sick cavies from the healthy stock. Give one teaspoonful of castor oil at night after feeding. Begin next morning with Cavy Cold Cure, placing in cavies mouth with dropper morning and night until cured. Cut down on green food one-half.
Tortocolis—Symptons: The animal holds head to one side and goes around in a circle.
Causes: Caused by drafts and catching cold, which affects the muscles of the neck, causing the muscles affected most to give the neck a curved appearance. Some animals recover from this although their neck is turned, they make very good breeders.
Treatment: Massage the neck of the animal with any good liniment and give Cavy Cold Cure as directions state morning and night. This generally relieves them and often cures.
Watery Eyes—Symptoms: Watery discharge from the eyes and some times from the nostrils, caused by a cold and some times the ammonia given off from unclean hutches. If caused from colds follow the same treatment as for colds and pneumonia.
Paralysis—Symptoms: Hind quarters drag, weak back, lower extremities of the cavy immovable. Caused from feeding too much alfalfa or over feeding them with green food; also damp hutches.
Treatment: Give cavy 18 drops of Cavy Cold Cure twice a day. Rub the limbs and loin with some good liniment. Feed carefully for a few days and they will generally recover.
Lice—Symptoms: Animal becomes thin, does not seem to eat, scratch themselves considerably, hair sometimes stands up and the cavy has sort of dull appearance. Always look your cavy over about once or twice a month for nits and lice, for these pests hinder the growth and breeding of the stock and keep them in a poor condition.
Treatment: If the weather is warm, it is well that you dip them, and you can generally get an animal dip that is prepared especially for this, as per directions from the manufacturer. You can dip the entire animal in the fluid and place him in the sun where it is warm so that he will dry rapidly, or near a stove if you wish. Dipping cavies really is the sure method of destroying lice. However, if the weather is too cold for dipping, then, use a good lice powder and dust same into the hair of the cavy and about the hutch. Do not be afraid of using too much.
By E. D. Corron, Colorado Springs, Colo.
Before commencing to get together your breeding stock, the beginner should carefully study the show reports in our fancier papers to see who are the successful breeders on the show bench and have stock for sale.
Having done this, the next thing to do is to decide which variety he wants to take up. In deciding on the variety, space, time and cash at dis-
posal must be considered. The room required for 20 English will only accom-modate 8 Peruvians. The time required to look after Peruvians is much greater than that needed to care for a stud of English.
In selecting stock a great point is the perfect healthfulness of each one selected. The future success of a caviary depends in a great measure on the condition of the original stock. It is impossible to breed exhibition stock from unhealthy parents. All that you do is to propagate disease and eventually death. A good test as to health and vigor is the condition of the eye and coat. A cavy in good health is sleek and glossy in coat, while the eyes are bold, bright and glistening. A healthy cavy is active and fast in its movements. An unhealthy cavy is dull in eye, open in coat and is slow and dull in its movements.
Having selected your cavies, they should be placed in nice, comfortable hutches, free from draughts and dampness, with about two inches of sawdust to absorb the moisture; thus the risks of colds, paralysis, rheumatism, etc., are considerably reduced. One boar and three or four sows may be run together.
In selecting sows for breeding you should always give the preference to young sows as it is an acknowledged fact among many of our leading scientific naturalists, that the best results in breeding are obtained from young dams. In using young sows, care must be taken to have a boar at least 15 months old or over. This is most important. I am strictly opposed to the use of stock before the age of 7 months at the youngest.
If used earlier, the young are not so strong or so finely developed as when bred from matured specimens. Sulky disposed sows should not be chosen. The best mothers are found among those bright, happy individuals who know their master's step, listen for the sound of his voice, love the stroke of his hand and always greet his coming with joy and gladness being expressed by their coming to the front of the cage and trying to converse with you in their own language, doing their best to thank you for your attention and care bestowed upon them. Young cavies intended for breeding should be allowed plenty of room for exercise, so that when required for breeding their bodies are well developed and their constitution strong and healthy in every respect. Sows go with young 65 to 70 days. Some a little before and some a little later. Sows that are coming with young should be well fed. Personally, I like to feed soft food during this period; warm mashes composed of one part crushed oats, one part shorts, two parts good bran, should be fed every evening. In the morning good, sound, clean oats with a dish of water or milk should be given them.
Toward the close of the pregnancy period, a feed of warm bread and milk should be given every morning. Plenty of green food or roots should be given during the whole period. Carrots are much better than beets at this time; they are sweeter and more conducive to a good milk flow. Breeding sows should never be without liquid or green food in their pens. About a week before you expect young the pens should be cleaned out thoroughly and well bedded with sawdust and hay. The young should run with their mother until five weeks old, and during the whole time they should have bread and milk, night and morning. At this time hay and green food should not be forgotten. A sufficient supply of both should be given twice a day. When the young are taken from their mother the sexes should be separated; it is not safe to leave them together after that age. If they are well developed (and they should be) they are very likely to get with young, and if that takes place all your labor to ever raise a good, strong show specimen has been in vain. The individuals that look like developing into winners should be kept separate from ordinary stock and fed on a more luxurious diet, size being a big factor on the show bench.
The young should be pushed as fast as possible from the day of their birth until the date at which they make their “debut" on the show bench. They should be fed liberally upon bread and milk mashes, good sound oats, hay, carrots and green food. What you put into them at this age will be returned to you when you put them into the breeding pen.
It sometimes happens that a sow does not nurse her young well. This condition may arise from several causes. Should this occur the young should be transferred to another sow that has recently had young. In moving the young to the foster mother, you should see that she is a quiet lovable mother, and not liable to harm the little ones committed to her care.
Cavies, as a rule, are very good in this way; they have no objection to a stranger or two among their own babies. If a foster mother is not available, the young must be kept well supplied with new milk thickened with fine oatmeal.
Although some fanciers run one boar with four or five sows all the time, I think it is not advisable to do so. When the sows are seen to be with young; the boar should be removed. As to whether it is best to let the sows remain together is a much debated point. If the sows are littered together, it might be advantageous to do so, if they are a peaceable bunch. But it sometimes happens that they are not; even some of the best are at this time inclined to be snappy and irritable. When this is the case, trouble naturally follows and. in the scramble some of the young are apt to be injured. To avoid this, it is advisable to remove the sows to separate pens a week or So before the young are expected. It is a great advantage, however, to have several sows littered, about the same time, for this reason: if one mother goes wrong in any way, her young may be divided among the others; or if one has a large litter and another a small litter, the mothering duties may be divided, to the benefit of all concerned. There has been much argument as to when is the best time to mate sows. One thing is certain. They will move rapidly, respond to the advantage of the boar a day or two after they have had their young better than at any other time. This, however, seems cruel and unnatural, to say nothing of the exhausting effect it must have on the sow’s condition and loss in size and stamina in her pregnancy. Personally I do not believe in such a practice of breeding. It is not right that while she is suckling one litter she should be called upon to carry another. Both the born and unborn must naturally suffer, to say nothing of the strain upon the mother.
If, however, she is well fed for four or five weeks after the young are taken from her, she will generally respond to the advances of the boar in a few days from the time of being introduced to him and breed strong, healthy young.
Three litters a year is the most I take from one sow, and ofttimes only two. What you don’t get in numbers you get in quality.
One good one is much better than a dozen poor ones. In all your breeding operations, remember that the great essentials to success are cleanliness, purity of food; regularity in feeding, roomy and well-ventilated pens and- the selection of strong, healthy stock. It is useless expecting to become a successful breeder unless these points are well observed. Neglect them and failure is sure to overtake you. Observe them and if you do not succeed you will at least have the satisfaction of knowing that failure has not come from any fault of your own.
This knowledge will spur you on to greater efforts, and success is bound to sooner or later put you on the list with the best breeders.
Care, Feeding and Breeding of Guinea-pigs as practiced by the Animal Husbandry Department of the Kansas State Agricultural College, Manhattan, Kansas By Prof. Heman L. Ibsen
(Article published in February, 1928, Small Stock Magazine.)
The following statement concerning the housing, feeding, and breeding of guinea-pigs (cavies) is not intended to be a comprehensive one discussing different methods used by various people but merely to give in some detail the one that has been used here and found to be successful.
Our animals are kept in a large room of a frame building that formerly was used as a military barracks. It has steam heat and is kept at a temperature of about 70 degrees throughout the winter. The many windows and doors in this room make it possible to keep it comparatively cool during the summer heat. We have not tried keeping animals in unheated rooms during the winter but we have found from experience that if litters are born when the heat is temporarily shut off they are apt to die from exposure.
The feed consists of three main parts: (1) the grain mixture, (2) hay, and (3) succulent feed. The grain mixture contains approximately 85 per cent rolled oats. The latter can be bought from wholesale grocers in either 90 or 100-pound sacks and usually averages about four cents a pound. To the rolled oats is added a mixture made up of five ingredients. This makes up about 10 per cent of the total grain mixture and contains the following materials, by weight: Finely ground corn 70 per cent, tankage 10 per cent, linseed oil meal 10 per cent, bone meal 5 per cent, table salt 5 per cent. In our feeding operations we generally make up about 100 pounds of the mixture containing ground corn, etc., and have determined by careful measuring just what amount by volume should be added to the rolled oats to make up approximately 10 per cent of the total. This is added each day when the grain mixture is prepared. In the same manner we have been adding about 5 per cent wheat germ. The latter contains some valuable vitamins and is helpful in promoting reproduction and milk production. We have been feeding it for several months and can state with certainty that it is very helpful. Here again we have found how large an amount need be added each time to make 5 per cent of the total. The wheat germ we use is not 100 per cent pure but consists of about 50 per cent true wheat germ and 50 per cent bran. We have bought it from the Larabee Mills of St. Joseph, Mo., for $50.00 a ton. The mill will furnish it in 100-pound sacks for approximately the same price, or about 2 1/2 cents a pound.
The contents of the grain mixture will probably be better visualized by means of the following table:
Grain Mixture 85% rolled oats
(70% finely ground corn (10% tankage
10% of (10% linseed oil meal ( 5% bone meal ( 5% table salt 5% wheat germ
The above ration is fed both summer and winter although it would probably not be necessary to feed the wheat germ during the summer when the animals receive a plentiful supply of green feed.
For a number of years we noticed that during the winter many of our animals died of pneumonia in spite of the fact that our ration seemed to be very good. About two years ago we found that if codliver oil to the extent of 2 per cent of the grain mixture is fed the animals that this builds up their resistance against colds and as a result very few animals die. The oil can generally be bought from some poultry supply house for about $2.00 a gallon. The large number of animals that are saved by this means pays back many times the money spent for the oil. Our procedure in mixing the oil is to determine first the quantity necessary to make up about 2 per cent of the daily ration. This is then mixed up with a small amount of rolled oats to which is later added the full amount of wheat germ and the "ground corn” mixture. These are thoroughly mixed with the oil and then this is added to the remainder of the rolled oats and mixed in thoroughly. By this means all the fine particles are saturated with oil and are more apt to stick to the rolled oats and to that extent their chance of being eaten by the animals is increased. The codliver oil, as stated, is fed only during the winter months when the animals no longer are fed the greens which they obtain in the summer.
We feed alfalfa hay throughout the year but in larger quantities during the winter than in the summer. The animals are also allowed to nibble on

wheat straw and we find that they eat large quantities. Wheat straw is used as bedding and if we are not careful to replenish it we often find that most of the “bedding” is eaten.
Guinea-pigs need some sort of succulent feed throughout the year. In summer they can be well supplied in this respect by means of green alfalfa, clover, or any kind of grass. Our animals generally get the green alfalfa whenever it is available. We have found that sudan grass is quite acceptable and the same is true of cane. If green feed of one sort or another is not fed, the young animals especially die of scurvy inside of three weeks. The first indication of scurvy is lameness in the hind legs. The older animals do not show any marked symptoms like the young ones. We have found from experience that when the females are fed a ration deficient in green feed they abort and are more apt to die from disease.
During the winter we feed sprouted oats as the green feed. Our method is to soak the whole oats in water for 24 hours and place it in pans thereafter keeping the oats soaked at all times and allowing the tops to grow by the end of eleven or twelve days to a height of three or four inches. By keeping them under artificial light on the tops of the cages they become fairly green. This oats not only is a good feed but it prevents the animals from getting scurvy. From previous experience we have found that carrots and cabbages are good substitutes for sprouted oats but are much more expensive.
If the animals are given a plentiful supply of the grain mixture above mentioned and also sufficient hay and succulent feed and in addition have all the water they can drink they should be in good health and should very seldom have any kind of disease. At any rate this has been our experience.
Our experimental work is chiefly the study of heredity and for that reason it is necessary for us to know the exact parentage of all litters born. This necessitates keeping only a few animals in each compartment and we find it advisable to restrict the numbers to one male and two females. Our cages have eight compartments each and are four tiers high. Each compartment is about 18 inches square and 14 inches high. The sides are made of 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth, thus enabling the animals to obtain plenty of fresh air.
We leave the male with the females continuously. In a large majority of cases a female is bred again on the day her litter is born. We find that this has no ill effect provided the animals arc well fed. We have numbers of cases in which as many as five or six litters in succession have been produced in this manner and the female has nevertheless continued to increase in weight. We also make it a practice to breed our animals when quite young. As soon as they are separated from the parents, which is usually when they are about six weeks old, they are either discarded or mated. In many instances the first litter is produced when the female is less than four months of age, and still she eventually will weigh about two pounds when a year old or thereabouts.
If one is not particular concerning the exact parentage of the animals born and at the same time has plenty of room it may be more satisfactory to keep a fairly large number of females, ten or more, in a pen and allow them to be bred by any one of two or three males that are kept with them. We have followed this method to some extent when merely trying to increase our stock and find it works fairly satisfactorily. As soon as the females are in an advanced stage of pregnancy they are placed in separate pens and allowed to give birth to their young. In about two weeks’ time they are returned to the pen from which they came and the young are disposed of.
In the above account I have tried to make an accurate statement of the methods used here in the raising of guinea-pigs. Probably no one will use exactly the same methods but on the other hand some may receive pointers which will be helpful to them in improving the methods they have been using.
By M. Stoner
Courtesy M. Stoner
Interior view of Cavy house showing well arranged hutches
Being a breeder of cavies for the past twenty-one years I think I have used most every kind and type of hutches, ranging from a store box with wire netting nailed on the front, to large pen in the yard enclosed with wire netting. I have also used pens in the basement, but the picture above shows an interior view of one room of my cavy house which I believe to be the most convenient of any that I have ever seen.
This building, which I designed and built a few years ago, is of the following dimensions: length, 64 ft.; width, 10 ft.; height in front, 12 ft., and height at back, 10 ft. The roof slants to the north and has a 2-ft. slope. On the front and both ends I used drop siding, while on the back I used shiplap and covered it with rubberoid roofing with all the seams sealed tight. The roof, which extends 1 ft. over on each side, is also made of shiplap covered with rubberoid roofing. The entire floor is of concrete; however, in a cold climate I would suggest that the floor be made of good flooring lumber with the exception of the feed room, which should be of concrete.
The interior of this building consists of two 27-ft. rooms, one at each end of the building, leaving a 10-ft. room in the center for a feed room. A large door in the end of each room and one in the front of the feed room allows good ventilation from any direction.
Seven and one-half feet above the floor is a loft floor of good flooring lumber. This makes a loft 4 1/2 ft. high for hay and several tons can be stored there. This loft breaks the force of the hot sun in the summer and helps to keep it warmer in the winter. The loft floor opens down into the feed room, making it very handy to get hay down, while the hay may be stored in at a door at either end of the loft.
Now the picture above shows the interior of one of the two 27-ft. breeding rooms. The hutches are at the back and are 3 ft. deep, giving 7-ft. aisle in front where I use a two-wheel cart that carries a bale of hay and a small feed box. The front of each of these rooms has four large windows 2 1/2 by 3 1/2 ft. These windows provide plenty of sunlight and fresh air.
The hutches are 3 ft. square and 18 inches high. There are four rows of hutches, nine in each row, making thirty-six hutches in the room. The floor of the bottom row of hutches is 14 inches above the floor of the room, making it easy to reach any part of the hutch without getting down on the floor. To reach the top row of hutches I use a small set of steps which may be moved along on the floor to any hutch you wish. The hutch floors are all made of good flooring lumber fit tight. The doors are full size 3 ft. long and 18 inches high, made of a 1 by 4 on the bottom and 1 by 2 on the top and ends. The doors are covered with 1-inch mesh wire netting and swing by hinges on the end and fastened with a small hook at the other end.
The partitions between the hutches are another feature of this building. They are made just the same as the doors, a 1 by 4 at the bottom and a 1 by 2 at the top and ends, and are covered with 1-inch mesh wire netting for summer, while in winter I insert a heavy piece of cardboard in the frame against the wire netting, making it a solid partition. These partitions are fastened in place by a cleat at the back and a button at the front edge, and may be removed at any time by turning the button at the front edge and slipping the partition out.
By these removable partitions any sized hutch may be made in a few minutes, or they may all be removed and have one long hutch 3 ft. wide by 27 ft. long with nine doors in the front.
For the top row I made nine extra partitions and by putting two strips of quarter round 1 inch apart on the floor from the front edge to the back of the hutch I can slip in these extra partitions making eighteen hutches 1 1/2 by 3 ft. deep in the row. In these I place my extra males while not in the breeding pens.
This room will easily accommodate 250 matured cavies.
By Harry J. LaDue
Editor American Fox and Fur Farmer
Valuable fur-bearing animals are decreasing rapidly in the wild, due to excessive trapping, destruction of forests, drainage of marshes and lowlands and increasing cultivation of the soil. Fur garments have always been in demand by mankind, and so long as Dame Fashion so decrees, and as long as people living in cold or temperate climates need protection from the cold, that demand will probably exist.
The rapid increase in population, the growing use of the automobile and the habit of living outdoors have not only made furs a necessity but have contributed to their scarcity. At the present time, the demand exceeds the supply, and the world is being combed in a vain endeavor to maintain the supply. There seems to be but one solution of the problem. That is the domestication and rearing of fur-bearing animals in captivity.
Fur ranching has attracted men from a wide field. Trappers, furriers, farmers, professional and business men, women and, in fact, persons from every walk of life have ventured into this new and fascinating outdoor pursuit. Since the world war, the industry has progressed with leaps and bounds in Canada and the United States. A deep interest has also developed in foreign countries and fur ranches stocked with North American fur animals are now in operation in England, Scotland, Norway, Sweden, Russia, Germany, Switzerland, France, Japan, Austria and Czecho-Slovakia.
The most popular fur animal amongst the breeders is the silver fox. Other animals have not been neglected, however, and many ranches devoted to the rearing of mink, muskrat, beaver, marten, fisher, raccoon and skunk are in operation. Beaver are being ranched in a semi-wild state in ponds and streams surrounded with retaining fences. Marten and fisher have presented a problem but there are a few breeders who have been highly successful propagating them in captivity.
This interesting North American fur bearer has won world wide fame in the last decade. It possesses a fairly tough hide and a soft, silky underfur that lends itself admirably to the new art of fur dressing and dyeing. It is probably the most widely used fur in the world and millions of dollars are invested in dyeing, dressing and tailoring plants devoted exclusively to the pelt product of the muskrat. With this increased popularity and demand has come a very noticeable reduction of the muskrat in the wild. This fact to gether with the utility of the muskrat pelt offers a splendid opportunity to the fur rancher.
Muskrat farming is really a misnomer. It would be impracticable to raise this fur bearer in close confinement as they require considerable range, a large quantity and variety of water plants, marshy and lake environment and must be raised in large numbers to insure profitable returns. Successful muskrat farming, therefore, consists of guarding and caring for the animals in their natural environment, the preservation of a breeding nucleus and the pelting of the surplus.
Profitable returns from muskrat farming depend principally upon the area of marshy, shallow lakes available for the use of the prospective fur farmer.
Absolute control of your stock can be obtained by erecting a three or four foot small mesh wire around the marsh. This fence should be set in a plow furrow and several rods back from the shore, so as to give the animals the ready access to the roots and plant life surrounding the marsh. Muskrats dig innumerable burrows into lake and marsh banks and in the nests at the end of these burrows the young are usually born.
If a large number of muskrats are reared in a small marsh the natural food supply will have to be augmented by coarse vegetables. The important natural root plants should be studied and replaced whenever possible. Cattails, sweet flag, lilies, rushes and other aquatic plants can be easily transplanted into your marsh, provided a little study is given to their seeding and germinating habits.
It should be the aim of the muskrat farmer to gradually reduce the low grade animals in a marsh and to replace them with healthy, large, dark specimens. The most valuable pelts in North America come from Atlantic coast salt water marshes along the shores of New Jersey, Maryland, Virginia and North Carolina. The muskrats from this region are small but possess a pelage, almost black in color, that commands top prices in the fur marts. Next in value may be listed the muskrats from Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan. This muskrat is larger and possesses a rich dark brown pelage.
The material for the popular coon skin coats can be reared in a small patch of woodland through which a brook runs or on the border of a marsh or lake. Motoring and outdoor enthusiasts have found the pelt of this animal peculiarly adapted to their requirements.
The northern raccoon is by far the most valuable, possessing, as a rule, a rich, mahogany-colored pelt that usually brings top prices in the fur market. There is a black color phase of the ordinary raccoon that has been highly developed by a few breeders and sold as black raccoon.
Raccoons breed once a year and the young average from three to six. They are omnivorous by nature and can be fed a variety of food. Fresh meat, frogs, fish, fruits, cornmeal and eggs are eaten with avidity. As a rule they are economical feeders and may be especially considered so when the fact is taken into consideration that they hibernate for long periods during the winter months. Their diet just prior to the advent of cold weather should provide the necessary elements to carry them through the winter.
One fur-bearer whose pelt has gained favor in late years is the skunk. High prices together with ignorance on the part of the public will undoubtedly operate to seriously reduce the wild supply in the future. The average farmer looks on the skunk as a pestiferous species of vermin, responsible for bad odors and raided chicken coops. As a matter of fact the skunk is an important economic asset to the farm. His principal food consists of injurious insects, such as crickets, grasshoppers, beetles, grubs, worms, bugs of all varieties, frogs and wild vegetation. A goodly percentage of poultry depredations if run to earth can be traced to the weasel, mink and fox.
The skunk easily adapts itself to domestication, given proper quarters and food, and it develops into a most interesting animal in captivity, losing much of its objectionable characteristics. Some breeders remove the scent sac from young skunks while others claim that if the animals are handled gently this is entirely unnecessary.
There is no reason why domesticated skunks cannot be raised in such a manner as to produce the finest grade pelts. In order to accomplish this the breeder must lay out his pens with care and forethought. They must include well drained lands with both sunny and open places as well as underbrush and timber and the water supply must be pure and fresh. In fact, if a pond is included in the runs so much the better. The insect life and the frogs, snails, etc., found around marsh borders form an important and highly necessary part of the skunk’s diet.
Insects are featured so strongly on the animal’s bill of fare in the wild that there is no doubt that the lack of them is largely responsible for the lusterless pelts produced on some fur farms. An eastern breeder has adopted the ingenious scheme of stringing several strong electric lights a few inches above the ground throughout his pens. The lights are turned on for a period every night during the summer and attract a myriad of insects, a great number of which perish underneath the light, thus supplying an ample quantity of natural skunk food.
Skunks breed usually in March and April, and the young, numbering from six to twelve in a litter, are born in May or June. They mature rapidly and have prime fur in December.
The mink has been successfully reared in captivity. The pelage of the mink is dense and when prepared by the furrier soft and beautiful in color. This fur is somewhat subject to the whims of fashion, still as evidenced by average prices quoted, it manages to hold its own. Mink pelts are especially adapted for use in making up small neckpieces so popular amongst the motoring public. They are also made up into beautiful capes and wraps.
Water is a prime necessity on a mink ranch; therefore land through which a small brook flows or a site along a lake or pond will prove the most suitable. The pens should be well shaded by trees and shrubs, as protection from a blistering sun is necessary in order to produce dark, lustrous fur.
Mink thrive on a diet of bread and milk, fresh meat, fish and frogs. Milk should be a prominent feature of the diet of females with young. In addition to cheap fresh meats and fish some breeders have fed English sparrows and tame or wild rabbits. The fur farmer raising natural meat eaters can economize on meat rations by raising rabbits for that purpose.
Mink raise one litter of young a year, consisting of five young on the average. The parents require careful handling during the breeding and rearing season. The male shows cannibalistic tendencies toward his offspring and must be separated from his family. Likewise the females must be separated from each other lest they kill their respective young.
Silver, Blue and Cross Fox
The fox is being reared in all its color phases. The most valuable is the silver fox, that rare aristocrat of the fox family that has been so highly developed through the selective breeding of the descendants of wild foxes captured by the early pioneers in the fox ranching industry.
The pioneers were faced with seemingly insurmountable obstacles. In the first place they were dealing with a wild, furtive and somewhat savage animal. In the second place they were faced with the genetic problems surrounding the retention of the rare silver phase. It took long, tedious years but the concentrating of many brilliant minds soon solved the major problems.
That the industry survived this period together with a wild-cat era, during which live foxes sold for fabulous sums, furnishes good proof of its stability. Since the world war progress has been made at an astonishing rate. The care and housing of foxes have been practically standardized. The breeders have been stimulated through keen competition in the pelt markets and at live fox shows to constantly improve the silver fox pelt and are now on the road to perfection in this art.
There are but two accredited and recognized fox herds in the world today. The Canadian Government has provided a Canadian National Record for foxes, under the Canadian National Live Stock Records. Every silver fox offered for sale by members of the Canadian National Silver Fox Breeders’ Association is inspected and passed by officials of the Canadian Department of Agriculture and must pass this inspection to be eligible for registration.
During the formative period in the United States two breeders’ associations sprung up. Each maintained a separate herd book. In 1924 these two associations amalgamated and formed the American National Fox Breeders’ Association. This association is recognized by the Canadian Government and as far as possible by the U. S. Department of Agriculture. It is a mutual, non-profit sharing association, owned, controlled and operated by its members and was organized to establish and maintain a herd book of registration for the protection of fox breeders in recording and determining the breeding, blood lines and pedigrees of the fox. This association has enjoyed a phenomenal growth and most of the fox breeders in the United States today are members and breed and sell only pedigreed, registered breeding stock.
The blue fox is a color phase of the Arctic or white fox and in this particular occupies the same relative position as the silver fox does to the red. Isolation on Alaskan coastal islands together with artificial selection by natives and white fur ranchers is largely responsible for the development of a distinct blue fox type.
So rapid has been the development of interest in this valuable little fur-bearer that practically every island off the Alaskan coast can now boast of a fox ranch. On most of these islands the animals are permitted to roam at large and their breeding and the rearing of young take place under natural conditions.
Silver Foxes
Within the last few years, however, many ranchers have experimented with and succeeded in propagating blue foxes in individual pens. As a result the blue is now reared in most of the Pacific Northwest states and numerous ranches devoted to this phase are scattered throughout the northern tier of states.
The blue fox is noted for its prolificness, litters from five to eleven. This fox is quite docile, hardy and once acclimated an extremely profitable fur animal to rear in close confinement.
The cross fox is a beautiful animal and is easily produced by crossing the silver phase with the ordinary red. Many ranchers are raising cross foxes for their pelts and the product finds a ready and profitable market. There is also considerable demand for breeding stock. Only silver and blue foxes are registered in the herd books of the American National Fox Breeders' Association.
Chinchilla Langeri
The above cut shows this wonderful little animal of South America, famous for its valuable fur produced, but the little animal is nearly extinct. The chinchilla rabbit is doing much to furnish a fur to closely resemble chinchilla fur and the breeders are to be congratulated on their science and successful breeding of the chinchilla rabbit.
Courtesy Ed. H. Stahl
Chinchilla Giant Rabbit
The Chinchilla Giant was given a working standard at our Tampa convention Feb. 1-5, 1928, and no doubt will be admitted as a Standard Breed us soon as they promise to be one of the leading meat and fur rabbits.
Philadelphia’s Wister Institute, part of the University of Pennsylvania, specializes in breeding white rats, cousin of the gray rat, not ordinary sewer rats, that carried plague.
The rats live and breed in a special rat establishment costing $60,000 and are shipped to scientific bodies all over the world, including Japan, that scientists may work on “standardized rats,” and compare results satisfactorily.
The rats live, die and submit to disease infection, knowing as little as human beings about the why or wherefore. Little do they dream that their tissues, structure, growth and digestive processes happen to resemble those of men, and that they breed, live, die only to save a higher race from death. Even so, they know as much as we do about primal causes and final purposes.
Many do not realize the good these animals do for the human race and I am pleased to give my method of care and feeding.
I find sugar cases make ideal breeding cages for rats, and I make them on the same design as the rabbit hutch. I make the front to take out in one piece, the bottom board being 4 in. to 5 in. deep, and to this is hinged a framework 2x1/2 in., which is covered with perforated tin or zinc, which I consider is warmer than wire netting. When complete, the whole can be taken out for cleaning, also at feeding time the bottom board keeps the youngsters from falling out of the box. I fix a shelf 4 inches wide across the box at the back, about 4 inches from the top. This I find gives the stock exercise, also they like to lie on it when resting. I also put in a few ventilation holes, 1 1/2 inches in diameter, covered with zinc, they being at the back, near the top. These give the air a free circulation. I do not favor nest boxes, for the reason that if there is a scarcity of ventilation the rats’ breath condenses, with the result the bedding becomes wet, and this causes rough ears and tails; for this reason also, I do not give any bedding unless the doe is ready to kindle. I give plenty of clean dry sawdust and clean out twice a week. Where there is bedding given I find the rats carry all their soft food into this and it becomes wet, the result being rough ears and tail. Another cause of rough ears is the want of cooling food for the blood, the blood being overheated. Give plenty of green food, dandelions, carrots, turnips, broccoli leaves, new grass, any of which are readily eaten up and the rats seem to enjoy them. When such are not available, a little flowers of sulphur mixed in the soft food is very beneficial.
I feed my rats exactly the same as my mice, viz., best whole white oats and wheat equal parts for corn, stale bread soaked in cold water, then squeeze
out most of the water and dry off with a little poultry meal, making it crumbly moist and not too sticky, or it soon becomes sour, and injurious if eaten. There is nothing like handling the stock. I handle the babies as soon as they run about, and they soon get to know that I do not intend to do them any harm. This gains their confidence, with the result that they look for it each feeding time and never get wild or shy. Where many make the mistake, is that they put them in a box and then throw in the food and bang the door to lest they should escape. The result is that in a few days the rats, instead of looking for you and hearing your cheery voice at feeding time, dash about and try to get as far away as possible; thus the budding novice gets fed up and clears out, the fault being all his own, through mismanagement.
Visitors who see my stock invariably say: “Oh! how beautifully clean and tame they are; I thought they were like the wild rats.” The chief point to watch is cleanliness, free from damp and draught, and not kept in too exposed a position. If the rats should develop a slight cold, which is noticed by the peculiar whistling and wheezing, especially in damp, foggy weather, a few drops of eucalyptus oil and spirits of camphor, mixed and put in the corners of the box, will soon effect a cure. Should the rough ears and tails turn up, make an ointment from a bit of leaf fat (pork) without salt, rendered down and dried off with a little flowers of sulphur. A few dressings will effect a cure, and if they eat any of it, it will do them no harm. I find rats very immune from disease, and the death rate is not one per cent.
One very good feature is you can keep any number of adult bucks together as they will agree, and you can add to or reduce the number any time, and they do not fight. This also applies to the does, whereas with adult buck mice it is murder to put strange adults together. A rat can be trained by a child to become a most interesting and intelligent pet, to my personal knowledge.
Raising mice for the fancy as well as commercial purposes can be made a paying proposition and there is a great demand for them for experimental work in laboratories at present, and considering space required they are profitable.
Another advantage over other animals is that mice can be kept almost anywhere, so long as they are free from draught, which is their worst enemy. If you have an outhouse of any description, so much the better; if not, they
Fancy Mice
can be kept in the cellar, the attic, a spare bedroom, or even in the coal-place. When the prospective breeder has settled where he or she is going to keep the stock, he must decide as to the kind of breeding cage he is going to use. I favor a box 18 in. long, 9 in. deep, and 9 in. wide, with a partition 6 in. from one end to provide a nest box, and two holes cut in the lid, as per sketch, for ventilation, and covered with gauze.
It is not even essential to go to such an expense as this, for a common dry soap box with lid, a hole cut in each end and covered with gauze, and partitioned for nest box, will do just as well, although it does not look so workmanlike.
The care of your stock is very simple, but they must receive regular attention. Clean the cages and give fresh hay at least once every week, twice if possible. Feed regularly, as the mice get to know when they should be fed, and regular feeding goes a long way towards keeping them in condition. It does not really matter whether you feed twice or once daily, but if you feed twice give them good sound oats and a little canary or millet seed at morning, and at night a little soaked bread, squeezed almost dry. If you are out at business all day, you may feed them at night only, giving them all their food at one time, but which ever way you start, continue in the same way.
Don't keep too many mice in one cage, as this not only causes a disagreeable smell, but soon puts the mice out of condition. An adult buck and two does are quite sufficient for a cage of the size mentioned above. When the does show signs of pregnancy take the buck away, and see that the does have an extra bit of soft food when you feed them. About five or six days after the youngsters arrive, they may be examined, and their number reduced to four or five in order that they may obtain proper nourishment from the mother, otherwise they will be weaklings when they mature and of very little use for breeding. Don't in-breed too much, as this tends to reduce the size and quality of the stock.
Becker, C. W., 153 St. Louis St., Mobile, Ala., New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas.
Buzard, Billie, 203 Rapsley St., Selma., Ala.
Fox, Wm., Box No. 22, R. F. D. A, Mobile, Ala.
George, H. G., 704 7th Ave., W., Decatur, Ala.
Glenn, M. V., 332 38th St., Fairfield, Ala., Chinchillas.
Hornsby, C. D., 700 N. Cherry, Dothan, Ala.
McCoy, Walter Clayton, R. F. D. No. 8, Box No. 147, Birmingham, Ala.
Owen, Mrs. Helen, 515 S. 26th St., Birmingham, Ala., Chinchillas.
Schwarz, Miss Christine, R. R. No. 1, Citronelle, Ala., New Zealands.
Baber, John, R. R. 1, Box 70, Gilbert, Arizona, New Zealands.
Byerly, Mrs. Chas. W., Box 534, Prescott, Arizona, New Zealand Reds.
Campton, Frank, R. F. D. No. 1, Box 119, Glendale, Arizona.
Cooper, Ethel M., Box 724. Prescott, Arizona, New Zealand Reds.
Fountain, Wayne, R. R. No. 8, Box 205, Phoenix, Arizona, Flemish, New Zealands. Fraedrich, Ed. J., Route 2, Box 277, Tucson, Arizona, Chinchillas and New Zealands. Groom, Mrs. W., Box 21, Paulden, Arizona, New Zealand Reds.
Hancock, Melvin C., Payson, Arizona.
Haswick, Mrs. W. E., 19 N. Montezuma St., Prescott, Arizona, American Blues. Howard, L. A., R. F. D. No. 1, Tempe, Arizona, New Zealand Reds.
Huber, Lee J., R. R. No. 2, Mesa, Arizona.
Jacobs, H., 3825 N. 6th St., Phoenix. Arizona, N. A. and Flemish Giants.
King, E. H., R. F. D. No. 2, Box 903, Phoenix, Arizona, American Blues, New Zealand Whites.
Long, C. A., General Delivery, Prescott, Arizona.
Lusk, R. A., Box 1265, Phoenix, Arizona, New Zealand Reds.
McNeill, M. A., Paulden, Arizona, Chinchillas.
Miller, Arthur H., Canelo, Arizona.
Moore, H. D., Clemenceau, Arizona, Chinchillas.
Palmer, Thorton E„ Box 52, Skull Valley, Arizona, New Zealands, Checker Giants. Price, Ray L., 806 E. Oak St., Phoenix, Arizona.
Rice, H. C., 611 E. Gurley, Prescott, Arizona, New Zealand Reds.
Schmitz, M. S., Box 513, Warren, Arizona.
Snell, Mrs. Grace, Fort Defiance, Arizona, New Zealands.
Spencer, Theo. S., 422 N. Beaver St., Flagstaff, Arizona, Chinchillas.
Stapleton, A. J., R. F. D. No. 8, Phoenix, Arizona.
Wells, John W., R. R. 6, Box 152A, Phoenix, Arizona, New Zealand Reds and Gray Flemish Giants.
Yopp, Mr. and Mrs. W. F., 146 S. McCormick St., Prescott, Arizona, Chinchillas.
Altman, Mrs. Mary E., Alicia, Ark., Chinchillas.
Barth, O. D., Bald Anob, Ark., Flemish Giants.
Bovay, Claude C., Stuttgart, Ark., Chinchillas.
Brown, M. O., 1107 Boyle Bldg., Little Rock, Ark.
Brown, T. D., Mgr., 310 Cherry St., Arkadalphia, Ark., Chinchillas.
Butler, Miss Elizabeth, 1102 Caddo St., Arkadelphia, Ark., Chinchillas.
Butler, Mrs. Turner, Hamburg, Ark., Chinchillas.
Carpenter, C. R., R. R. No. 2, Box 2 7, Sulphur Springs, Ark., Flemish Giants.
Click, Carl, El Dorado, Ark.
Collier, T. J., 1019 8. Olive St., Pine Bluff, Ark.
Creek, Arthur, Box 173, Magazine Ark., New Zealand Reds.
Dodson, Dr. C. A., Little Rock, Ark., Flemish Giants, New Zealand Belgians.
Flenory, Lucy, Dermott, Ark., Silver Cert. Stock.
Garrett, F. G., Clarksville, Ark.
Gruenberg, W. P., 121 Palm St., Little Rock, Ark., Chinchillas.
Heatley, G. E., Beebe, Ark.
Kilpatrick, A. H., 721 House Bldg., Little Rock, Ark.
McCafferty, Dr. C. E„ Peel, Ark.
McKnight, Mrs. O. E., Arkadelphia, Ark.
Midland Hills Rabbits, P. O. Box 274, Little Rock, Ark., Chinchillas.
Nash, Mrs. M. J., 948 County Ave., Texarkana, Ark.
Smith, Almyra, 1522 Louisiana St., Little Rock, Ark.
Stewart, Mrs. W. A., 1122 Caddo St., Arkadelphia, Ark., Chinchillas.
Williams. J. M., 2017 Spring St., Little Rock, Ark., Chinchillas.
Withee, Mrs. J. B., 1224 N. Polk St., Little Rock, Ark., Chinchillas.
York, Sarah Jane, Mena, Ark.
A & F. Rabbitry, 5327 Myers Pl., Inglewood, Calif., White and Gray Flemish.
Abbott, W. O., 310 E. Carolina Ave., Hawthorne, Calif.
Adams, Dr. A. L., 2141 Irving Ave., San Diego. Calif., Chinchillas.
Adams, Edwin P., Route 2, P. O. Box 569, El Monte, Calif., Rabbits.
Adkins, R. A., 11916 Saticoy St., Lankershim, Calif.
Allen, A. J., Box 174, Westwood, Calif.
Allen, F. F., 11136 South Vermont, Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish.
Allen, Walter C., R. 2, Box 250, Hawthorne, Calif., all breeds.
Allis, L. G., Foothill Blvd., at 77th St., Oakland, Calif.
Anderson, Chas., 941 Fairfax Ave., Hollywood, Calif.
Arbuckle, A. W., Hill Drive, Petaluma, Calif., New Zealand Reds and Whites.
Arden Dairy Fur Farm, Arden Drive, Corner Lower Azuza Rd.. El Monte, Calif. Armitage, G. R., 4585 36th St., San Diego, Calif., Flemish Whites, New Zealands. Armstrong, S. G. F., P. O. Box 662, Petaluma, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Arnold, J. F., 1427 E. 71st St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Ashley, H .F., 5100 S. Huntington Drive, Los Angeles, Calif.
Atkinson, Wm. C., 32 Alta St., Arcadia, Calif., Havanas, Chinchillas, Lilacs.
Bailey, A. L., 119 Pico St., Taft, Calif.
Baker, Arthur F., 1744 E. Don Carlos Ave., Glendale. Calif.
Baker, B. E., 2422 Naomi Drive, Arcadia, Calif., White Flemish.
Baker, F. W., 129 Melrose, Anaheim. Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Baldwin, O. E., P. O. Box 592, La Mesa, Calif., Chinchillas, Sables Champ., New Zealand Whites.
Banks, L. J., Route 2, Box 201, Bakersfield, Calif., Chinchillas.
Barkell, M. E., and L. I. Wagner, 7560 Arizona, Culver City, Calif., Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites, Blues, Grey Flemish, Silver Fox, Belgian Hares.
Bar Rabbitry, Box 8, R. R. 1, National City, Calif.
Barrett, S. E., 1718 Vine St., Hollywood, Calif., Flemish.
Barton, Joseph, Box 51, San Pablo, Calif.
Bathurst, Edward, 4736 Wiota St., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish and White New Zealands.
Battles, F. B., 5132 Baltimore St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Baxter, A. R., Box No. 8, Route No. 1, National City, Calif., New Zealand Whites and Chinchillas.
Bectold, A., c/o J. W. Ward, Route No. 1, Box No. 47-L, Florin, Calif.
Bedell, Mrs. Pearl, Rt. 2, Box 128B, North Hollywood, Calif.
Bee-Law Fur Farm, Box 181, Baldwin Park, Calif., Chinchillas.
Bielefeldt, Mrs. A., 765 E. Grand, Pomona, Calif., New Zealand Whites, American Blues, Chinchillas, White Flemish.
Beikner, Harold, 1360 Baker Ave., Ontario, Calif.
Bell, Chester D., R. R. 1, Riverside, Calif., all breeds.
Bell, H. H., 374 Riverside Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish.
Benton, R. R., 196 N. Chester St., Pasadena, Calif., White Flemish.
Berg, Mr. E. C., 885 N. Lake Ave., Pasadena, Calif.
Berry, Addison W., 1611 S. Glendale St., Glendale, Calif.
Bibler, Arthur, 79 Indiana Ave., Riverside, Calif., New Zealands.
Birdsall, Charles, 5th St. and Mountain Ave., Ontario, Calif.
Black, Carl W., 432 S. School St., Lodi, Calif., Chinchillas.
Block, Roy, 16825 S. Vermont, Gardena, Calif., Chinchillas, Whites, Havanas, and Lilacs. Bowers, Chas. A., Sisquoc, Calif., New Zealands.
Brabaker, W. E., P. O. Box 191, La Crescenta, Calif.
Brandtcoorp, E. S., 1106-7-8 Pac. Nat. Bank Bldg., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish. Braundale Acres, Box 413, Ontario, Calif., Chinchillas and New Zealand Whites.
Bridge, P. B., R. R. Box 261, 15822 Ventura Blvd., Van Nuys, Calif., New Zealands. Brossia, M. H., 510 Atlantic Blvd., R. No. 1, Box No. 53, Bell, Calif., Flemish Giant and New Zealand Reds.
Brown, Gordon D., 1348 Howard St., Santa Monica, Calif., all breeds.
Brown, M. V., 4455 Montalvo St., Ocean Beach, Calif., New Zealands, American Blues, Havanas, Black Siberian Hares, and White Flemish.
Bryant, C. M., 330 Palmyita, Riverside, Calif., American Blues, Flemish Giants.
Buck, Sherman, R. No. 1, Box No. 191, Huntington Beach, Calif., Chinchillas and Lilacs. Buckles, Jess, Placentia, Calif., Chinchillas.
Burrows. Williams, 2940 39th St., Sacramento, Calif., American Blues and New Zealands. Burton, W. J., R. F. D. No. 1, Garden Grove. Calif., Flemish Giants.
Button, Walter H., 3477 3rd Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish.
Cady, Wm., Jr., 280 Arlington Drive, Pasadena, Calif., White Flemish.
Calder, E. S., P. O. Box 543, Arcadia, Calif., Chinchillas and White New Zealands. Campbell, L. M., Box 321, Modesto, Cal., New Zealands.
Chamness, W. H., Pixley, Calif.
Chaney, L. D., 133 N. Garfield, Montebello, Calif., Chinchillas, Whites.
Chapman, L. E., 768 Worcester Ave., Pasadena, Calif., Chinchillas.
Chapman, L. G., 623 West St., Upland, Calif., Flemish and New Zealands.
Chappell, L., U. S. S. Cahokia, Eureka, Calif., Chinchillas.
Christie, Lewis F.. R. No. 1, Box No. 596, Huntington Beach, Calif., New Zealand Reds. Cochran, G. W., 1111 11th St., Sacramento, Calif.
Colwick, R. E., Box 124, Baldwin Park, Calif.
Conaway, C. R., 653 Pennsylvania Ave., Riverside, Calif., Flemish and New Zealands. Crawford, Mrs. S. D.. 4355 Huntington Drive, Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish.
Crescent Bay Rabbitries, Asstd., 2360 16th St., Santa Monica, Calif., Chinchillas, White New Zealands, Himalayans, Havanas.
Culley, T. S., Box 81E, Route No. 1, San Fernando, Calif., New Zealand Whites and Reds. Cunningham, H. G., 5225 W. Adams, Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish and Chinchillas. Cupp, N. M., 1070 Tujunga Ave., Burbank, Calif.
Currier, Harold J., Walnut Creek, Calif., New Zealands.
Cushman, R. L., R. 2, Box 49A, Lankershim, Calif., New Zealands.
Czeikowitz, R. R., 1334 23rd Ave., San Francisco, Calif., Flemish Giants, Belgian Giants. Danielson, O. J., 437 Lemon Ave., Arcadia, Calif., White Flemish.
Dauncey, Wm., 831½ S. Gage St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Davis, Mrs. Anna N., R. 3, Box 71, Santa Ana, Calif.
Davis, George, 608 N. Ocean Ave., Clearwater, Calif., Rabbits.
Deal, Roe A., 760 N. Wilton Pl., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish.
Dean, Jas. N., 115 E. 7th St., Ontario, Calif., Red and White New Zealands and American Blues.
Dean, Wilbur, 115 E. 7th St., Ontario, Calif.
Decker, John, 308 Orange St., La Mesa, Calif., Lilacs and Chinchillas.
Deffenbaugh, B. E., P. O. Box 265, Newman, Calif., Chinchillas.
De Haven, E. B„ 10621 Central Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish.
De Lacey, Ernest F.. 4738 Wilson Ave., San Diego, Calif., New Zealand Whites and Reds. Denier, A. J., 974 Oliver St., San Pedro, Calif., Chinchillas, American Whites.
De Walt, C. L., Costa, Mesa, Calif.
De Witt, T. L., 4058 Cheroke St., San Diego, Calif., New Zealand Reds, American Blues, New Zealand Whites, Angoras, Steel and Gray Giants.
Diamond E Rabbitry, Leslie Eade, Mgr., Van Nuys, Calif.
Dillon, Oscar, 915 Grattan St., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish.
Dodge, G. E., 706 W. Lugonia Ave., Redlands, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Donaldson, Mrs. Lucy, 320 S. Vine St., Ontario, Calif., Rabbits.
Donnolly, Thomas C., 2405 Edwards St., Berkeley, Calif.
Douglass, Mrs. F. E., Box 338, National City, Calif., Chinchillas.
Dufrain, Mrs. A. F„ R. F. D. No. 1, Riverside, Calif., White New Zealands, Chinchillas. Dunn, Jas. A., 1045 Archer St., Pacific Beach, San Diego, Calif., American Blues, American Whites, Havanas, Chinchillas, and Lilacs.
Duple, J. W., 730 W. Pedregosa St., Santa Barbara, Calif.
Eden, F. Marion, R. D. No. 3. Anaheim, Calif., Silver Fox and Chinchillas.
Edmiston, Mrs. G. T., 1231 W. 78th St., Los Angeles, Calif., Chinchillas.
Eickerman, Fred, 374 S. Ferris St., Los Angeles, Calif., New Zealand Whites.
Eldridge, H. E., Box 23, R. R., Menlo Park, Calif.
Elite Fur Farm, P. O. Box 902, Arcadia, Calif., Chinchillas.
Elliott, R. E., 1119 S. Shelton St., Santa Ana, Calif., New Zealands, Chinchillas, American Blues.
Ellsworth, Dr. A. D., 511 Rowell Bldg., Fresno, Calif., Chinchillas.
Ensign, H. U.. Tuolumne, Calif.
Epton, C. B., R. F. D. No. 2, Box 14, Watsonville, Calif.
Esterbrooks, Elmer S., 5929 Melvin Ave., Reseda, Calif.
Evans, E. R., R. R. 5, Box 133, Santa Rosa, Calif.
Evans, J. F., R. D. No. 1, Baldwin Park, Calif., American Blues.
Fagan, H. E„ Red Bluff, Calif., Chinchillas.
Falltrick. A. P., R. F. D., New Castle, Calif., Chinchillas, Polish, American Whites, New Zealand Reds, Flemish Whites.
Farr, R. W„ P. O. Box 245, Burbank, Calif , Rabbits.
Farries, Geo., R. No. 1, Box 1496, Montrose, Calif., Chinchillas.
Fawcett, F. A., Room No. 9, Auzerais Bldg., San Jose, Calif., New Zealand Reds, Whites, and Himilayans.
Ferguson, U. W., Box 255, Westminster, Calif., Flemish.
Fittin, Frank G., 140 W. 85th Pl., Los Angeles, Calif., White New Zealands.
Flanigan, Walter L., 1907 Ralph St., Rosemead, Calif.
Foss, May, 230 Valnett St., Arcadia. Calif., New Zealand Whites and French Silvers. Fox, W. B., 720 Ottowa St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Frankfurt. Mrs. Ona L., 1801 Muscatel. Rosemead, Calif., Chinchillas.
Frantz, Markey C., R. No. 2, Box 332, Whittier, Calif., Silvers, White Flemish, Chinchillas. Frear, John A., 631 Avon Ave., San Gabriel, Calif., White New Zealands, White Flemish, Red New Zealands, Himalayans.
Ganon, Mrs. N., 2735 Stocton Blvd., Sacramento, Calif., New Zealands, American Blues. Garrison, Mrs. A. B., Humboldt Co., P. O. Box 204, Fortuna, Calif.
Geertsen, C„ 1996 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, Calif.
Gerner, Alfred, 2629 79th Ave., Oakland. Calif., Chinchillas.
Gibbs, F. B., 12935 Magnolia Ave., Van Nuys, Calif., New Zealands.
Gibson, D. W., 1348 W. 106th St., Los Angeles, Calif., Chinchilla Giants.
Glass, John C., 3027 33rd St., San Diego, Calif., New Zealands.
Glazier, Bertha L., 424 E. Huntington Drive, Arcadia, Calif., New Zealands.
Godard, H. M., and S. Waterman, R. No. 4, P. O. Box No. 259, Anaheim, Calif., Chinchillas.
Goettle, Rev. O. F.. 605 Keokuk St., Petaluma, Calif., H. W. and Std., Chinchillas and New Zealand Whites.
Goodro, C. H., 726 W. California Ave., Ontario, Calif., New Zealands and Flemish.
Gordon, E. C., Duarte, Calif., White Flemish.
Goree & Goree, 25 Park Ave., Petaluma, Calif., White New Zealands and Chinchillas. Gray, Firemna C., 1511 15th Ave., Santa Monica, Calif., White Flemish, White Angoras French Silvers. Havanas.
Green, Geo., 1862 E. 66th St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Griffin, D. C., 1009 E. 66th St., Inglewood, Calif.
Gross, E. L., 3920 Loguna Ave., Oakland, Calif.
Grover, O. W., 443 Lemon Ave., Arcadia, Calif., White Flemish.
Gruwell, Thos., 45 S. 23rd St., San Jose, Calif., Ch. de Argents and Blue Flemish. Guidoux, U., Box 270, Palo Alto, Calif., all breeds.
Hale, W. C., 127 E. Amerige St., Fullerton, Calif., Chinchillas, Whites.
Haley, J. S., Box 183, Petaluma, Calif., Chinchillas.
Hall, Franklin A., 1108 E. A St., Ontario, Calif., New Zealand Reds and Whites. Hamilton, M. M., 80 N. 33rd St., San Jose, Calif., Flemish and Checkered Giants. Hannogdn, W. C., Box 280, Westminster, Calif., New Zealands.
Hardaway, Albert L., 819 Seventh St., Fowler, Calif.
Harris, Oliver C., General Delivery, Buena Park, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Harry, J. C., 546 Willow St., Long Beach, Calif., Flemish.
Harter, Katherine, 1708 Bank St., South Pasadena, Calif.
Harvey, C. B., R. No. 1, Box No. 40 B, Garden Grove, Calif., Red and White New Zealands.
Hatfield, Eugene, Box 85R, West Gladstone Ave., San Dimas, Calif.
Hatfield, Harry, W. Gladstone Ave., San Dimas, Calif.
Hause, Ray L., Hillcrest Rabbitry, 312 W. Brooks St., San Diego, Calif.
Henderson, C. D., 618 Wellington Ave., Santa Ana, Calif.
Hickson, William T„ East Holt Ave., Box No. 32, Pomona, Calif., all breeds.
Hicock, W. L., 2064 Gilmore St., Willowbrook, Calif.
Hill, E. E., P. O. Box 946, La Mesa, Calif., Chinchillas and New Zealand Whites.
Hill, Thos. D., P. O. Loma Porta, Calif.
Hindman, Mrs. T. P., 2120 Spaulding Pl., Pasadena, Calif., White Flemish.
Hively Fur Rabbitry, 5720 Fair Ave., Lankershim, Calif., New Zealand Reds and Whites, Chinchillas.
Hoagland, L. M., P. O. Box 233, San Juan Bautista, Calif.
Hoffman, Williams, R. F. D. No. 1, Box 144, Monrovia, Calif.
Holcombe, C. W., 710 W. Washington, Santa Ana, Calif., Chinchillas.
Hollarbush, L. L., R. R. 3, Box 2, West Bakersfield, Calif.
Hollinger, J. A., 355 E. Foothill Blvd., Altadena, Calif.
Holmes, W, N., 959 E. Col. St., Pasadena, Calif.
Hoover, J. R., 1907 S. Main St., Santa Ana, Calif.
Houck, Reve E., 501 Irving Place, Culver City, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Howard, J., c/o Fred Cline, Placentia, Calif.
Hunter, J. B., 626 Stevens Place, Los Angeles, Calif., Belgian Hares.
Ipsen, Carl L., 477 Mastick Ave., San Bruno, Calif., New Zealand Whites, Chinchillas. Jacobs, I. E., Perris, Calif., California Reds and Flemish Giants.
Jerman, C. H., R. F. D. No. 1, Artesia, Calif.
Johns, Thos. H., 208 W. Arlington Ave., Riverside, Calif., Chinchillas and New Zealands. Johnson, A. E., 1011½ Burtonway, Beverly Hills, Calif., White Flemish.
Johnson, Caroline Linden Fur Farm, 5338 Linden St., N. Long Beach, Calif., New Zealands, Chinchillas, Havanas, Lilacs, American Blues, French Silvers.
Johnson, Ned, 271 San Jose Ave., Los Gatos, Calif.
Jones, E. F., 2707 McKenzie Ave., Fresno, Calif., Chinchillas.
Jordan, M. J., 932 62nd, Oakland, Calif., Belgian Hares.
Junod, John L., R. R. 1, Box 513, San Fernando, Calif.
Kammerdeiner, C. S., Sierra Bonita, Pasadena, Calif., White Flemish.
Karper, H. A., R. F. D. No. 5, Box No. 33, Bakersfield, Calif., Chinchillas and Whites. Kaskel, August F., 1346 S. First Ave., Arcadia, Calif.
Kelsey, Vada C., Rt. 1, El Wee Wee Rancho, Owensmouth, Calif., New Zealands. Kendall, Guy W., 1040 Vineland, Baldwin Park, Calif.
Kiefhaber, F. D., 6850 Diaz Ave., Lankershim. Calif., Gray and White Fleming Giants. Killien, P., 4121 Kansas, San Diego, Calif., White Flemings, American Blues.
Kinsey, Clyde H., 671 E. 87th St., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemings, American Blues. Kinpe, Emory E., R. No. 1, Box 237, Garden Grove, Calif., Chinchillas, Blues, Americans. Kirkeby, Mrs. B. F., 938 W. 63rd Pl.. Los Angeles, Calif., Rabbits.
Korstad, E. W., 1608 D St., Hayward, Calif., Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds. Krick, P. H„ 313 N. Los Angeles, Anaheim, Calif., Chinchillas.
Kroeneke, Peter, Clements, Calif.
L. P. Fur Farm, 2000 Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, Calif., Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites. Lamley, W. L., 1307 Tucker St., Compton, Calif., Chinchilla Giants.
La Petite Rabbitry, R. E. and B. T. Wolfe, 3209 Liberty Blvd., South Gate, Calif. Latham, C. L., Albion, Calif.
Latham, R. I., Albion, Calif., Flemish.
Leeds, Frank, R. 1, Box 517, Oakland, Calif. (Calaveras and Seminary Sts.), Chinchillas. Lemon Heights Fur Farm, R. R. No. 1, Box 94B, Santa Ana, Calif.
Likins, Mrs. Walter, Tracy, Calif., Chinchillas.
Lindau, S. Paul, 1016 W. 9th St., Los Angeles, Cal., French Silvers.
Livingston, Glen, Chino, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Lossius, R. A., Rt. 1, Box 39½, 1223 E. 26th St., National City, Calif., New Zealand Whites.
Love, C. A., 3649 Sabina St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Lucas, Levi, 217 W. Cook St., Santa Maria, Calif.
Macabrey, Fernand C., 276 Arleta Ave., San Francisco, Calif., White Flemish Giants, Chinchilla Giants, Red New Zealands, and Belgian Hares.
Madson, H. P., 413 S. Burris Ave., Compton, Calif.
Malcuit, Victor, Hotel Atwater, Avalon, Calif.
Mallory, B. F., Rt. No. 1, Box 93, San Fernando, Calif., American Whites and New Zealand Reds.
Mansfield, Ada B., 3131 Bagley Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., New Zealand Reds, White Fr., and Silver Chinchillas.
Mansfield, Nathan F., R. 1, Box 143, Arroyo Grande, Calif.
Maple Leaf Fur Farm, 605 S. 3rd St., Arcadia, Calif., Chinchillas and White New Zealands.
Marcy, K„ Anaheim Cal.
Marsh, Harold C., 1205 16th St., Bakersfield, Calif.
Mathews, Frank E., 3768 Oakdale Ave., Lamanda Park, Calif., Chinchillas, White Flemish, Havanas, Lilacs, Sables, Glancots.
Maynard, Mrs. J. B., 2287 Washington, San Leandro, Calif., New Zealand Reds, Whites, and Blue Flemish.
McCawley, R. B., 627 Judson St., Redlands. Calif.
McClellan, F. R., Box 447, Alhambra, Calif.
McClure, E. L., 2051 Imperial St., Los Angeles, Calif.
McDonald, Floyd A., P. O. Box 251, Vista, Calif.
McDonald, J. P., Box 227, Alta Loma, Calif.
McElroy, Elmer, 1820 Fair View St., R. No. 1, Box 855, San Gabriel, Calif., White Flemings.
McGee, Horace, Hume, Calif., Chinchillas.
McMum, H. S., 3427 Folsom, Los Angeles, Calif.
McNabb, L. A., 2657 79th St., Oakland, Calif., Chinchillas.
Melvin, Merl E., 2740 Laurel Pl, Southgate, Calif., White New Zealands, Chinchillas. Merrill, J. G., 644 Jackson St., Pasadena, Calif., New Zealands.
Midwick Fur Farm, 226 N. Chandler St., Monterey Park, Calif., American Blues, White Flemish, New Zealand Whites.
Migeot, Peter, 333 W. 52nd St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Millar, Ira B., Coffman Ave., Anaheim, Calif., Whites and Reds.
Miller, Ernest C., 2320 Virginia Ave., Santa Monica, Calif., Chinchillas.
Mission Rabbitry, E. M. Schlessinger, Prop., R. R. No. 1, Box 132, Mountain View, Calif., American Whites, New Zealand Reds, Silvers, and Himilayans.
Moats. L. C., Jr., R. R. No. 1, Box 849, Hawthorne, Calif.
Mohr, Wm. and H., Rt. Box 338, Beaumont, Calif.
Monneyham, W. L., 331 Kansas Ave., Riverside, Calif., Reds and Whites.
Moore, Mrs. A. B., 9304 San Vicente, Home Gardens, Calif., American Blues, Chinchillas. Moore, Frank, 722 E. Vernon, Los Angeles, Calif.
Moore, Fred W.. Dinuba, Calif., Chinchillas, Red and White New Zealands.
Morrison, W. R., 2914 Glen View Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish.
Mullins, A. F., 1004 3rd Ave., Oakdale, Calif.
Murphy, Thos. P., R. F. D. Box 640, Redondo Beach, Calif.
Murray, Arthur, 328 Virginia Ave., Richmond, Calif.
Murry, Katherine C., 4304 Ingraham St., Pacific Beach, Calif., New Zealands.
Myers, Ben, Box 47, Wendel, Calif.
Neidhardt, Chas., 1219 Cherry Ave., San Jose, Calif.
Nightingale, Manton, 312 S. Hollister, Pasadena. Calif.
Norman, L. J., Box 232 Scotia, Rio Del Near Scotia, Calif., New Zealand Reds, Flemish Giants, and Chinchillas.
Oakes, C. D., 640 N. First St., Fresno, Calif.. New Zealand Whites O'Brien, J. L„ Box 114, Altadena, Calif., White Flemish.
O. M. H. 11, 1221 S. Santa Anita Ave., Arcadia, Calif., Chinchillas, Whites.
Orchard, L. F., P. O. Box 752, Redondo Beach, Calif., Flemish.
Orr, W. A., 99 S. 23rd St., San Jose, Calif., Checkered Giants.
Pacific Fur Farm, R. No. 1, Box 119A, Artesia, Calif.
Pammesberger, Wm., 2874 Clay Ave., San Diego, Calif.
Parish, Mrs. V. E., Box No. 33, Cupertino, Calif.
Patterson, E. L.. Box 557, San Jose, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Patterson, Edward L., 470 S. 10th St., P. O. Box 557, San Jose, Calif., Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds.
Payse, Alex, c/o Cal. Pet. Oil Co , Yorba Linda, Calif., Flemish, American Blues,
Pearl, A. M., R. F. D. No. 1, Calistoga, Calif.
Pelphrey, H. F., 1414 Lawrence, Los Angeles, Calif., Utility Stock.
Peterson, A., R. R. No. 2, Box 53, Fuller Ave., Hayward, Calif.
Peterson & Mallet, P. O. Box 452, Petaluma, Calif., New Zealand Whites, Chinchillas. Petty, Judge Charles F., 1416 Columbia St., San Diego, Calif.
Pierce, Mrs. Charlotte, 523 T St., Eureka, Calif., Chinchillas.
Pierce, H. A., 1229 E. Holt Ave., Pomona, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Pierce, Le Roy P., P. O. Box 594, Arcade Sta., Los Angeles, Calif.
Pike, Mrs. Floyd R., 747 N. Claudina St., Anaheim, Calif.
Pinnegar, G. W., 28 W. 5th St., Watsonville, Calif.
Pioneer Fur Farms (D. W. Allen), 128 Doty St., R. R. 1, Box 1140, Hawthorne, Calif. Pitman Bros., Box 73, Culver City, Calif., Chinchillas.
Pitts, I. E., 241 S. Chandler Ave., Monterey Park, Calif.
Powers, Etta E., Ontario, Calif., Reds and Blues.
Powers, Simon P., 125 S. Bon View Ave., Ontario, Calif., Reds and Blues.
Presville, Louis R., Rt. No. 1, Box 155, Buena Park, Calif.
Prince, P. M., R. No. 6, Box 261, Huntington Beach, Calif.
Pringle, R. J., R. R. 10, Box 864, Los Angeles. Calif.
Proffitt, John H., General Delivery, Hayward, Calif.
Puckett, S. A., 1409 Maple Ave., Santa Ana, Calif., Chinchillas.
Pullen, S. C., 1289 N. Catalina St., Pasadena, Calif., Chinchillas.
Pysden, G. F., R. D. No. 3, Santa Ana, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Qualey, Mrs. Ida, Ethanac, Calif., White Flemish.
Rae, A. E., 19th and Wilson Ave., Upland, Calif., Sand Flemish, New Zealands.
Rankin, J. F„ 661 Ellisworth St., San Francisco, Calif.
Redding, R. L., 1003 2nd Ave., Oakdale, Calif.
Redmond, J. M., 1560 7th Ave., San Francisco, Calif., American Blues, Chinchillas, Chinchilla Giants.
Reichard, Randolph, 173 Wapello Lane. Altadena, Calif., White Flemish.
Reid, Frances M., 113 Senter Road, San Jose, Calif., New Zealand Reds, White Angoras, Chinchillas.
Rettig, Fred E., Rt. 1, Box 34-B, Palo Alto, Calif., Whites and New Zealand Reds. Rhinehart, Harry G., San Diego Co., Encinitas, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Rice, C. E., Box 882, Hollywood, Calif.
Richardson, E. A., 1801 American Ave., Long Beach, Calif.
Roberts, John K., Rt. No. 1, Box 814, San Gabriel, Cal., White Flemish.
Robert's Rabbit Ranch, 1047 Clara St., Bell, Calif.
Robinson, Mrs. C. L., 3710 Adams Ave., San Diego, Calif., Chinchillas.
Robinson, Freda A., 596½ N. Lake Ave., Pasadena, Calif.
Robinson, C. H., Box 664, Auburn, Calif.
Rockhill, C. C., R. R. No. 1, Box 527, Gardena, Calif.
Ronke, S. H., 1176 S. 7th St., San Jose, Calif., Flemish Whites and Blues, French Silvers, Chinchillas, American Whites.
Roripaugh, Chas. C., Fallbrook, Calif.
Ross, Frank, R. 1, Box 373, Torrance, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Roseberry, Mrs. B. N., Box 42182, San Quentine, Calif.
Row, J. M„ Box 218, Lorna Linda, Calif.
Russ, Herman, R. R. 1, Box 324, Venice, Calif., New Zealand Whites.
Russell, Floyd, 809 N. Spadra Rd., Fullerton, Calif.
Russell, J. L., R. F. D. No. 2, Gardena, Calif.
Sael, John A., 740 Marco Pl., Venice, Calif., White Flemish.
Salisbury, Lewis H„ 979 N. Maringo Ave., Pasadena, Calif., American Blues.
Saxton, Jos,, 338 W. Plymouth St., Inglewood, Calif., Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites and Reds.
Saltonstall, W. M., Mills Ave., R. 1, Pomona. Calif., American Blues.
Schneider, Jas. E., 2506 Juliet Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., Chinchillas.
Schoenberg, Bunny, 313½ S. Berendo St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Schravcsande, H. P., 114 W. 91st St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Schuyler, Ernest, 330 Ivy St., Glendale, Calif., White Flemish and Chinchillas.
Scott, Hugh, Coronado, Calif.
Seemaun, C. E., 418 N. Hill Ave., Pasadena, Calif., White Flemish.
Shannon, J. E„ P. O. Box 882, Martinez, Calif.
Sheehy, Wm., Fontana, Calif., Red and White New Zealands.
Shellenberger, H. L., Reseda, Calif., New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas.
Sherman, Mrs. Ruth, Box 976, San Diego. Calif., American Blues.
Shoreand, Geo., Long Beach, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Shortland, George, Box 13, Hynes, Calif.
Simon, Ray, Rt. 2, Box 199, Van Nuys, Calif.
Smith, A. H., 1800 San Gabriel Blvd., San Gabriel, Calif.
Smith, Chauncey E., Box 293, Lorna Linda, Calif.. Gray Flemish Giants.
Smith, E. A., R. R. 1, Box 568 A, Hayward, Calif.
Smith, Mr. and Mrs. E. A., Sta. A, Bakersfield, Calif.
Smith, Geo. J., 4807 Third Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., Chinchillas.
Spears, N. A., 10520 Fir St., Inglewood, Calif., American and New Zealand Whites. Stakes, C. K., 124 N. Arnerge, Fullerton, Calif., Chinchillas and Whites.
Stebbins, C. F„ 512 Texas, Redlands, Calif.
Steiner, J. L., Box 331, Westminster, Calif., General Stock.
Stellon Fur Farm, 534 52nd St., Maywood, Calif.
Stevens, Geo. B., 513 Lemon St., Arcadia, Calif., Chinchillas and New Zealand Whites. Stock, Mabel K., 314 W. 94th St., Los Angeles, Calif., Chinchillas.
Stodel, Andrew, 100 N. Hobart Blvd., Hollywood, Calif., Dutch.
Stoute, Harold F., General Delivery, Saratoga, Calif.
Studer, Mrs. Rubye, 780 N. Ninth St., Fresno, Calif., Cavies.
Stowe, Clark, East Gridley, Calif.
Stroud F. W., Tranquility, Calif.
Strubel, Phil., Atty., 995 Market St., San Francisco, Calif.
Sutton, E. W., 882 E. 57th St., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Takagi, Isami, 442 Crocker St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Takagi, Isami, 307½ N. Figoeroa St., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish.
Taylor, L. R., 47 New York Ave., Los Gatos, Calif.
Tetley, Gordon O., 274 La Cadena Drive, Riverside, Calif., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds, French Silvers, Himalayans, American Whites.
Thayer, M. L., 3431 Garnet St., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish Giants, American Blues, French Silvers.
Thom, F. F., R. R. 2, Box 430, Hayward, Calif., New Zealands.
Thoman, Vincent J., 622 N. Chandler Ave., Monterey Park, Calif.
Tiessen, A. K., 988 Bell St., Pasadena, Calif., Chinchillas.
Tilconer Fur Farms, Box S, San Fernando, Calif.
Treadwell, F. A., W. Commonwealth, R. No. 1, Fullerton, Calif., Chinchillas and White Flemish.
Tucker, Dr. Ivan W., Norco, Calif., Flemish Whites, New Zealand Whites, Havanas. Tucker, Laura, E. North, R. R. 3, Anaheim, Calif., White Beverans, New Zealand Whites. Tuley, G. B., 2115 12th Ave., Oakland, Calif., Meat Rabbits, New Zealand Reds.
Turner, Mrs. L. M. and Miss Dorothy, P. O. Box 504, Hayward, Calif., Himalayans, Havanas, Chinchillas, and Checkers.
Turon, Albert Constant, 746 E. 53rd St., Maywood, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Upham, H. G., R. R. 1, Box 84, Covina, Calif., New Zealands.
Valek, Mrs. Gertrude, 11 E. Rosemead Ave., R. No. 3, Box 590, Pasadena, Calif., White Flemish.
Van Dorn, Truman C., R. F. D. No. 1, Box 63, Riverside, Calif., Checkers and Checkers with Flemish.
Van Fossen, Mrs. H. A., R. No. 1, Box 287A, Chula Vista, Calif., Chinchilla, N. Z. R. White and American Blue.
Villar, Jack, 456 Hull Ave., San Jose, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Vilmure, Ed. C., 163 W. Santa Clara St., San Jose, Calif.
Walder, Frank, 1026 E. Colorado St., Pasadena, Calif.
Walsh, J. M., R. No. 2, Box 373, San Leandro, Calif., White Flemish.
Ware, Arabelle, 4094 Voltaire, Ocean Beach P. O., Calif., American Blues, French Havanas, Mt. Taloo, Red and White New Zealands.
Warren, H. A., 5156 El Rio Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., White New Zealands, White Flemish.
Washburn, C. W., 602 Leesdale, Van Nuys, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Weld, Lidia G., No. 2, Lancaster, Calif., Himalayans, New Zealand Whites, Silver Martens.
West, Geo. S., 3131 Burton Ave., Lynwood, Calif., White New Zealands.
West, Mark, R. R. No. 2, Box 25, Lankershim, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Westcott, Francis David, 1220 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, Calif.
Westwood Rabbitry, 2630 Valley Blvd., El Monte, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Wheaton, Hugh C., 376 Newport Ave., Long Beach, Calif., New Zealand Reds and Whites, American Blues, and Chinchillas.
Whipple, James R., 3421 36th St., San Diego, Calif., Reds and Whites and Blues, Whitcomb, R. B., 735 Lemon Lane, La Mesa, Calif., White New Zealands.
White, Stewart N., S. Pacific St., P. O. Box 216, Tustin, Calif., New Zealand Reds. Wight, C. Z., Box 11, Lemon Grove, Calif., New Zealand Reds and Whites.
Willett, Oscar L., Atacasadero, Calif., Chinchillas, American Whites.
Williams, Frank, R. R. No. 2, Box 137, Yuba City, Calif., New Zealand Reds and American Blues.
Williams, H., 3828 Alabama St., San Diego, Calif., New Zealand Whites.
Williams, Wm. H., Bodega, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Wilson, S. M., Orange Ave., Costa Mesa, Calif., all breeds.
Wilsons Ranch, 2711 Marengo St., Los Angeles, Calif., American Blues, New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas.
Wisel, R. F., R. R. 3, Box 1591, 9926 Helen Ave., Roscoe, Calif., New Zealand Reds, American Blues.
Wolfe, C. J., 411 Bay St., Santa Cruz, Calif.
Wood, John Henry, 18057 Ventura Blvd., Los Angeles, Calif., Chinchillas, Silver Glav-cots, American Whites, American Blues, White Angoras, Lilacs, Sables, Havanas. Wood, Mrs. L. N., 1314 Olive Ave., Burbank, Calif., New Zealand, Reds.
Woodcock, S., Loma Linda, Calif., Rabbits and New Zealands.
Wriedt, W. H„ 334 N. Orange, Brea, Calif.
Wright, Seth M., Rt. 1, Highland, Calif., Havanas and Lilacs.
Wrights, Clare P., 120 Winston Ave., Pasadena, Calif., White Flemish.
Yarbrough, Mrs. Ada, Rt. 2, Box 132, Chico, Calif., New Zealand Reds, Checker Giants. Yancey, Arch. B., P. O. Box 68, Lamanda Park, Calif., White Flemish.
Young, J. S., 2118 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, Calif., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds. Zuver, I. E., Box 52, Modesto, Calif.
Zwissig, A. A., Sundale Caviary, 9031 Hillside St., Oakland, Calif.
Allan, Roy, Carnduff, Sask., Canada.
Axtell, A. W., Dicksbury, Alberta, Canada, Chinchillas.
Babington, H. B., Sluggetts P. O., Victoria, B. C., Canada.
Barlow, P„ Marshfield, P. E. I„ Canada.
Bates, Frederick H., Chesterfield School, North Lonsdale, B. C., Canada, Flemish Giants. Berry, Mrs. R. H., 1115 7th Ave., West, Calgary, Alta., Canada, Chinchillas.
Bird, Wm. Geo., The Bluebird Rabbitry, 566 Gorge Rd. West, Victoria, B. C., Canada, Blue Flemish Giants, Angoras.
Botwright, Mrs. Barbara L., 631 Cth Ave. W„ Alberta, Calgary, Canada, Chinchillas.
Boutell, F. J., 122 5th St., West, North Vancouver, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Bradford, E. W., Cascade, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Broadhurst, E. M., Brentwood Bay, Victoria, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas, Blue Beverens, White Beverens.
Brown, Miss Ada G., 2997 49th Ave., E., Vancouver, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas, Blue Beverens, New Zealand Reds.
Bulman, Thos., 543 Seymour St., Kamloops, B. C., Canada.
Cairnes, J. A., R. R. 1, Ladner, B. C., Canada, Lilacs, Chinchillas.
Cameron’s Point Fur & Feather Farm, Ewing & Malleson, Props., O'Kanagan Landing, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas and White Flemish.
Carr Bros., Thornbury, Ont., Canada.
Chappell, M. Thos., 58 Goodwood Park, Crescent, Toronto 13 Ont., Canada, English Smooth and Abyssinian Cavies, American Blues.
Chevealier, Albert, 771 E. Boulevard Gouin, Montreal, P. Q., Canada, Chinchillas, Checkers.
Cluff, Mrs. H., Royal Oak P. O., British Columbia, Canada, Chinchillas and Sitkas. Cook, A. B., Fort Qu. Appelle, Saskatchewan, Canada.
Cook, II. A., R. R. No. 2, Chilliwack, B. C., Canada, Flemish Giants.
Cooke, Arthur G. W., Crofton Fur Rabbitry, Westholme, Vancouver Island, B. C., Canada, Blue Beverens.
Desaulniers, P. L., Pont Rouge, Que., Canada, Chinchillas.
Doyle, A. M., 845 Somerset Bldg., Winnipeg, Man., Canada, Silver Black Foxes and Chinchilla Rabbits.
Dyne, Mrs. Bradley, P. O. Box 126, Duncan, B. C., Canada, Rabbits.
Edland, Walter, Barnet P. O., B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Ferguson, R. C., Keefers, B. C., Canada, Rabbits.
Finel, A. A., 4551 Parthenais St., Montreal, Que., P. Q., Canada, Chinchillas, Pervians, Cavies, Flemish, English Lops.
Fogson, Mr. C. D., Kaslo, British Columbia, Canada, Chinchillas.
Fowler, A. C. & Co., Terrace, Canada, Chinchillas.
Fox, Edward W., New Hamburg, Ont., Canada, Chinchillas.
French, Mrs. J. G., 3628 Saanich Rd., British Columbia, Victoria, Canada, Flemish Siberians, Angoras, New Zealands, Dutch.
French, W. A., 3628 Saanich Rd., Victoria, B. C., Canada, Flemish, Chinchillas, and all breeds.
Fuxa, Rev. S. J., Springside, Sask., Canada, New Zealand Reds.
Ganong, Willard, Kings Co., R. R. No. 1, Springfield, N. B., Canada, Chinchillas.
Gibbs. Mrs. J. L. A., Roch Hur St., R. M. D. 1, Duncan, Vancouver Island, B. C., Canada, Champ De Arg and Black Siberians.
Goddard, G. E., Sidney, V. I., B. C., Canada, Chinchillas and Havanas.
Gordon, Robert, 522 Walnut Rd., Saskatoon, Sask., Canada.
Greenwood, E., 1068 Bank St., Victoria, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Grieve, W., 545 Hillside Ave., Victoria, B. C., Canada, Lilacs.
Haarhoff, Fred N., c/o Canada Bank of Commerce, Vancouver, B. C., Canada. Henderson, Alex, South Cooking Lake, Alberta, Canada.
Hickford, J. S., Seven Oaks P. O., Victoria, Canada, Argentine Creams.
Hickling, Percy H., Box 211, Nanaimo, B. C., Canada.
Holness, Harry T., R. R. No. 1, c/o James Welch, New Westminster, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas, Himalayans, Blue Beverens, and Silver Glavcots.
Houghton Fur Farm, Box 966, Victoria, B. C., Canada.
Ingram, A., 654 Jubilee St., Winnipeg, Man., Canada, Chinchillas.
Jacobson, E. S., 95 Uxbridge Ave., Toronto 9 Ontario, Canada, English Fur Rabbits and Cavies.
Johannsen, Andrew, St. Genevieve, Sask., Ross P. O., Canada.
Johnston, Geo. S., 22 Charles St., Toronto, Canada, Blue Beverens.
Keir, E. F., Greenwood, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Kerr, O. J., 549 Albert St., Stratford, Ontario, Canada.
Kydd, A. E., Box 140, Delia, Alberta, Canada.
Large, Raymond J., Deer Lodge Hospital. Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada, Chinchillas. Laws, Ernest F., R. R. No. 1, Grand Forks, B. C., Canada, Angoras, Chinchillas.
Leckie, J. Stuart, Middle Bench Road, Penticton, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas and Black Siberians.
Long, John, Hattonford, Alberta, Canada, Chinchillas.
Lumbers & Anthony, 28 Morthvew, Toronto, Canada.
Mackay, Wm., P. O. Box 285, 269 4th Ave., Swift Current, Sas., Canada.
MacDonald, L., Box 101, Asquith, Sask., Canada, Chinchillas.
McCoubrey, J. A., Box 512, Kaslo, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Meddins, Harold T., Aberdeen, Sask., Canada, Chinchillas.
Meggitt, C. V., P. O. Box 221, Grand Forks, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas, Flemish Whites, New Zealands, Blue Beverens.
Mitchell, F. R., R. R. No. 1, Busby, Alberta, Canada, Chinchillas.
Mitchell, J. J., Okanagon Centre, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Mouland, Jack, Sidney, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
O'Connell, P. J., 2520 Kingsway, Lynmour P. O. N. Vancouver, B. C., Canada, Standard and Heavy Weight Chinchillas, Flemish Giants.
Pallister, Mrs. Wm., 1446 5th Ave., West, Vancouver, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas. Parsons, Eva 8., 3264 St. George Ave., North Lonsdale, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas. Plews, Walter, Box 119, Carnduff, Sask., Canada, Chinchillas.
Poulin, P. E., P. O. Box 752, Nelson, B. C., Canada, all breeds.
Pringle, Stanley, Schombcrg, Ontario, Canada, Fur Breeds.
Rennie, R., Fort Langley, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Richmond, J. E. L., Box 692, Kamloops, Canada, Chinchillas.
Robinhood Fur Farms, T. H. Rhodes, Mgr., 469 Inkster Blvd., Winnipeg, Man., Canada, Chinchillas.
Roome, I. H., Box 189, Duncan, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas and French Silvers.
Rose, Prank, 1313 11th St., Saskatoon, Sask., Canada, Chinchillas.
Schwartz, Mrs. L., Sluggetts P. O., Vancouver Island, B. C., Canada.
Simmonds, B. and E., 366 Charles St., Victoria, B. C., Canada, Beverens, Champ De Argents, New Zealand Whites, Chinchillas, and Angoras.
Simpson, A. R., 126 Regent St., Kingston, Ontario, Canada.
Sinclair, D. R., Salmon Arm, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Sladen, Mrs. H. V., Woodroofe P. O., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.
Smythe, Mrs. W. R., York Rd., P. O. Box 482, Duncan, V. I., B. C., Canada, French Silvers.
Sparkes, Wm., Terrace, Canada, Chinchillas, White Flemish.
Stapleford, W. R., Box No. 1, Watford, Ont., Canada, Flemish, New Zealand Reds, Lilacs, Chinchillas, Argents, Silver Grays, Silver Pawns, Silver Browns, White Beverens.
Stavert, Chas. R., Summerside, P. E. Island, Canada, Chinchillas.
Taylor, A. Pering, Dept. Treas., Govt. Dept, of Sask., Saskatchewan, Canada.
Thiel, Victor, Ladner, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Thorpe, James, Box No. 44, Asquith, Sask., Canada, Chinchillas.
Williamson, Dr. P. M., Box 2374, North Vancouver, B. C., Canada, Chinchillas.
Wilson, Clifford, 23 Poucker St., Toronto, Canada, Chinchillas.
Wolley, C., 2895 Inlet Drive, Victoria, B. C., Canada, Belgians.
Wyatt, William, 503 7th St., Medicine Hat, Alta., Canada.
Young, Thomas, 217 Ash Street, New Westminster, B. C., Canada.
Annis, Fred V., 617 Santa Pe Drive, Denver, Colo.
Aukerman, C. S., Austin, Colo., Chinchillas.
Bakke, Edward, 808 Pine St., Boulder, Colo.
Beaty, R. G., Rt. 2, Box 66, Denver, Colo.
Becker, Edgar N., 1618 Boston St., Aurora, Colo., American Blues, Chinchillas, New Zealands.
Beckley, Mrs. J. E., Box 13, Delta, Colo., Chinchillas.
Beckwith, Everett M., 3350 Alcott St., Denver, Colo.
Belbaire, Daniel J., Bergen Park, Evergreen, Colo., Flemish Giants.
Berkely Heights Rabbitry, 4949 Raleigh St., Denver, Colo., Havanas and English Cavies. Bernard, Chas., Box 323-A, Wheatridge, Colo.
Blore, John H., Delta, Colo.
Bradshaw, J. J., Haxtun, Colo.
Brewer, Stanley, 1626 S. Clayton St., Denver, Colo., Flemish Giants.
Butler, Geo. O., 109 E. Main St., Florence, Colo.
Carlson, Vernon E., Box 216, Boulder, Colo., New Zealands.
Carlton, R. W., Motor Route A, Box 52, Pueblo, Colo., Flemish and Belgians.
Chandler, C. W., Box 138, Trinidad, Colo., New Zealand Reds and Whites, Belgians, Checkered Giants.
Chase Boni Fur Farm, Henderson, Colo., Flemish Giants.
Clemens, Dave, R. P. D. No. 1, Penrose, Colo., Chinchillas (Purebred).
Cline, Harry A., 1402 10th Ave., Greeley, Colo.
Clinton, J. F., 118 Lowell St., Denver, Colo., American Blues and Whites.
Conrad, Ernest, and Associates, Calif. Bldg., Denver, Colo., Small Fur Bearing Animals Converse, Mrs. Mary P., Windermere Gardens, Littleton, Colo., Flemish and Chinchillas. Cooper, W. F., Box 73, Fountain, Colo.
Corrin, E. D., 2112 W. Kiowa St., Colorado Springs, Colo., Cavies and Lilac Rabbits. Crosby, S. D., 4601 S. Downing, Denver via Englewood, Colo., Chinchillas.
Crowder, Roy, Sedalia, Colo.
Danley, Mrs. S. T., R. No. 2, Box No. 83, Capitol Hill Sta., Denver, Colo., Flemish Giants. Davies, D. E., Box 53, Durango, Colo., Cavies.
De Valon, Geo. C., Golden, Colo.
Dickson, Paul M., 2468 Gray St., Edgewater, Colo.
Dillon, Dr. L. R., 407 W. Third St., Pueblo, Colo., Flemish.
Dougherty, W. E., R. 2, Box 193, Canon City, Colo.
Elder, E. A., R. R. 1, Box 845, Edgewater, Colo.
Erickson, L. L., 43 Meade St., Denver, Colo.
Fair, Mrs. Edward, Blue Bird Chinchilla Rabbitry, Romeo, Colo.
Finley, R. G., 1317 Benton St., R. D. No. 2, Box 2820, Edgewater, Colo., Flemish Giants. Fitterling, Wm., Clifton, Colo.
Frew, S. M., 2895 Ames St., Denver, Colo., Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites, Havanas. Fuller, Downe A., 675 Delaware St., Denver, Colo., American Blues, Havanas, White Flemish.
Garroute, L. W., 1244 Clayton St., Denver, Colo., Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites, Flemish and B. and W.
Goetzfried, Jos. M., c/o Windemere Gardens, Littleton, Colo., Flemish.
Goodspeed, Horace F., 4929 Perry St., Denver, Colo., Chinchillas.
Green, Garfield, 2025 N. Weber St., Colorado Springs, Colo.
Griffith, S. D., 1945 9th Ave., Greeley, Colo., Chinchillas.
Griffin, Lewis J., 812 E. Costello St., Colorado Springs, Colo.. Flemish.
Griffith's Rabbitry, L. W. Griffith, Box 235, Evans, Colo., Chinchillas.
Hagood, D. F., 1918 Dallas St., Aurora, Colo., Chinchillas.
Hall, Warren D., Rainbow Blvd., Salida, Colo.
Hallett, Mrs. Christina, Aurora, Colo., Chinchillas.
Hallowes, V. C., Box 19A, R. R. 3.
Hampton, C. W., Fort Morgan, Colo., Chinchillas.
Hand, W. M., 245 Palmer St,, Delta, Colo.. Chinchillas.
Harris, F. C., 821 S. Cascade Ave., Colorado Springs, Colo., Chinchillas.
Herard, Gilbert, 1537 Alton St., Aurora, Colo., Chinchillas.
Himes, W. D., Delta, Colo., Chinchillas.
Hollon, Geo. A., 2427 N. Nevada Ave., Colorado Springs, Colo., Flemish, Chinchillas, and Belgians.
Honeyman, L. C., 416 N. Main St., Pueblo, Colo.
Hunter, Mrs. C. W., R. R. 2, Box 124B, Grand Junction, Colo., Rufus Red Belgian Hares.
Imherr, Geo., Julesburg, Colo., Belgian Hares.
Ingram, R. E., Henderson, Colo.
Jagger, Theo., Box 1061, Pueblo, Colo., Chinchillas.
Jarvis, Guy O., 440 S. 2nd St., Box 311, Sterling, Colo.
Johnson, Andrew E., R. No. 2, Box 573-A, Edgewater, Colo., New Zealand Whites. Johnson, Geo. S., 432 Grand St., Delta, Colo., Chinchillas.
Jones, Jno. C.. 1401 Cedar St., Pueblo, Colo., Chinchillas.
Jones, N. P., Rt. 2, Box 442, Edgewater, Colo., Chinchillas.
Kaser, W. J., Lazear, Colo., Chinchillas.
Kinnaman. Floyd J., 750 Gunnison St., Grand Junction, Colo., Chinchillas.
Krull, Leslie O., Rt. No. 1, Box 314, Wheatridge, Colo.
Kyffin, Mrs. J. W., R. R. 2, Box 140, Pueblo, Colo.
Larkin, S. A., Box 38, Fowler, Colo.
Lee, Thos., 2113 E. Evans St., Pueblo. Colo., Chinchillas.
Lowe, F. E. Emil, 1733 S. Clarkson, Denver, Colo.
Marshall, Mrs. M., Rifle, Colo., Chinchillas.
Mason, J. L., Cumbres, Colo.
Maxwell, Mrs. Margaret S., R. F. D. No. 2, Box 330A, Arvada, Colo.
McCall, Mrs. Clyde, R. R. 1, Fort Morgan, Colo., Chinchillas.
McClure, Ray J., Calhan, Colo., Belgian Hares.
McKeen, Wilson, Julesburg, Colo., Flemish Giants.
McLallin, C. O., 620 Goodnight Ave., Pueblo, Colo., White New Zealands.
Meens, A. W., Y. M. C. A., Grand Junction, Colo., Chinchillas.
Meinzer, T. W., Monte Vista, Colo., Chinchillas.
Meinzer, V. H., Mancos, Colo., Chinchillas.
Miner, Homer, 2323 S. Cherokee St., Denver, Colo., Flemish Giants.
Morris, Arthur J., 22 W. Archer Pl., Denver, Colo., Chinchillas.
Mountain Forest Fur Farms, Inc., P. O. Box 178, Telluride, Colo., Chinchillas.
Myers, D. C., 416 12th Ave., Greeley, Colo., Chinchillas.
Nance, Jas. M., 2766 S. Logan Ave., Englewood, Colo., American Blues, Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds.
Nash, Robt. G., Box 754, Monte Vista, Colo.
Neukrich, George F., P. O. Box 61, Fairplay, Colo., New Zealand Reds.
Orndorff, O. G., Penrose, Colo., New Zealand Reds.
Osborn, L. E., Sunny Valley Silver Fox Ranch, Estes Park, Colo., Chinchilla Rabbits and Silver Foxes.
Patterson, W. R., Box 12, Delta, Colo., Chinchillas.
Pioneer Fur Farms, Rifle, Colo., Chinchillas, New Zealands, Blue Beverens, and Siberian Giants.
Platt, H. M„ 1102 Euclid Ave., Pueblo, Colo.
Poncelow, Walter Ray, Penrose, Colo., Flemish and New Zealand Reds.
Ranke, Chas., R. R. No. 2, La Junta, Colo., Chinchillas.
Reuter, Chas., 4938 Meade, Denver, Colo., Chinchillas.
Richard. B. Franklin, 305 Masonic Temple, Denver, Colo., Chinchillas.
Riley, Fred, R. F. D. No. 2, Trinidad, Colo., White Flemish, Dutch, New Zealand Reds, and Steel Flemish.
Ritter, Eitenne A., 408-9 Empire Bldg., Denver, Colo.
Schafer, Martin J., 6th Ave. and Syracuse St., Denver, Colo.
Scott, W. G., 1215 N. Franklin St., Colorado Springs, Colo., Chinchillas.
Shane, Geo. H., 3100 S. Williams, Denver, Colo.
Shaw, R. T., Delta, Colo., Chinchillas.
Shields, Lloyd L., Box 134, Florence, Colo., Chinchillas.
Simpson, Jno. E., 3525 W. 39th Ave., Denver, Colo.
Smith, A. L., 821 E. 1st St., Pueblo, Colo., Flemish, White New Zealands.
Smith, Gerald C., 2369 S. Gaylord, Denver, Colo.
Smith, John M.,. Box 104, Tabernash, Colo.
Staples, S. L., Gunnison, Colo.
Star Rabbitry, 1151 Bannock St., Denver, Colo.
Studt, Mrs. Chas., Grand Valley, Colo., Chinchillas.
Sutherland, Geo. W., Delta, Colo., Chinchillas.

Tezock, Wm., 2710 Routt Ave., Pueblo, Colo., Chinchillas.
Turnock Rabbitry, 1706 N. Chestnut St., Colorado Springs, Colo.
Waldron, Mrs. Maud W., P. O. Box 144, Monument, Colo., New Zealands.
Warner, W. H., Suite 3, Opera House Block, Trinidad, Colo.
Watchdog Co., John H. Post, Pres., Pinecliff, Colo., Flemish Giants.
Watson, Lawrence W., Box 241, Silverton, Colo.
Weaver, Bert, 1434 N. Walnut St., Colorado Springs, Colo., Dutch and Himalayans. Wells, Mrs. L. N., 521 Meade St., Denver, Colo., Chinchillas.
Wendel, C. L., Morley, Colo., Chinchillas, Flemish Dutch Blues.
Western Fur Farms, 333 Temple Court Bldg., Denver, Colo.
Whitson, Stewart, 4712 Gilpin St., Denver, Colo., Chinchillas.
White, A. D., 243 Waverly Ave., Trinidad, Colo., New Zealands.
White, O. E., 1263 S. Sherman, Denver, Colo.
Willis, D. H., 2732 Dunkeld Place, Denver, Colo.
Willow Grove Rabbit Farm, Rt. 2, Box 623A, Edgewater, Colo., White Flemish, Black Flemish, and Himalayans.
Wilson, Mrs. Mary P., Rt. 2, Box 193, Canon City, Colo.
Winslow, J. C., 75 S. Julian St., Denver, Colo.
Wise, Le Roy J., 1014 Grand Ave., Grand Junction, Colo., Chinchillas, Standard and Heavyweight.
Wonderly, J. W., 15 W. 10th Ave., Denver, Colo.
Wright, Alex, 627 Willamette Ave., Colorado Springs, Colo., Chinchillas, Flemish Reds, Red Belgians.
Young, Chas E., 4105 Perry St., Denver, Colo., Flemish Giants, Havanas, Chinchillas.
Amidon, Stanley C., Abington, Conn., Practical New Zealand Reds.
Andretta, A. S., Lovely St., Unionville, Conn.
Bradley, A. C., Wilton, Conn.
Puchinsky, Benedict, Scitico, Conn., New Zealand Reds.
Cronan, Louis I., R. D. No. 2, Box 104, Torrington, Conn., Maccodine Flemish Giants. Dean, M. S., R. F. D. No. 1, Groton, Conn.
Doubleday, Emma, P. O. Box 72A, R. F. D., South Glastonbury, Conn., New Zealands. Doudera, Marion, West Cornwall, Conn., Black Checkered Giants, New Zealand Reds. Fabrariello, Peter, 42 Lewis St., Torrington, Conn.
Gremmo, A., 71 Charter Oak, S. Manchester, Conn.
Harrington, Davis O., Patterson Ave., Greenwich, Conn.
Jones, Eleanor M., 109 Hartford Turnpike, New Haven, Conn., Chinchillas.
Krodel, Wm., P. O. Box 763, Waterbury, Conn.
Larsen, A. E., 63 Raymond St., New London, Conn.
Pine View Rabbitry, Abington, Conn., New Zealand Reds.
Sears, Dr. Blake A., 115 Pleasant St., Windsor, Conn., Flemish.
Schultze, Oscar F., 39 Main St., Norwalk, Conn., Flemish, Belgians, and New Zealand Reds.
Shaw, Alfred W., Maplehurst St., No. Haven, Conn., Belgian Hares.
Smalley, L. E., Box 863, Danbury, Conn.
Smith, Ernest, Box 99. West Hartford, Conn.
Smith, J. P., Red Cottage, Hadley Mountain, Conn.
Waterbury, Robert G., R. F. D. No. 1, North Haven, Conn.
Wetherbee, John, Abington, Conn., Flemish Giants.
Quesada, Dr. Ernest Pujals y de, P. O. Box 273, Santiago, Cuba.
Lewis, Chas. J., Selbyville, Del., Chinchillas.
Satterfield, Joseph, 47 The Green, Dover, Del.
Weldin, Herbert F., 916 Orange St., Wilmington, Del., Flemish Giants.
Wilgus, J. E., Selbyville, Del., New Zealands.
McCally, Homer W., Box No. 8, Washington, D. C., Chinchillas.
Misjent, B., 602 N. Carolina Ave., S. E., Washington, D. C.
Almond, J. F., Box 3226, Tampa, Fla.
Barrie, Millie, 265 N. E. 7th St., Hialeah, Fla.
Brown, B. F„ R. R. 1, Box 64G, Tampa, Fla., Flemish Giants, Chinchillas.
Buchli, Daniel, Box 773, Vero Beach, Fla.
Cathcart, N. W., 906 Tampa St., Tampa, Fla.
Chapman, Archie F., 267 N. W. 31st St., Miami, Fla., Rabbits.
Eaxton, E. G., R. R. 1, Box 34, Limona, Fla.
Finzel, F. F., P. O. Box 1775, Riverside Sta., Miami, Fla.
Fox, T. J., 2120 N. W. 42nd St., Miami, Fla.
Glover, Miss Laura E., Box 223, Port Orange, Fla.
Goss, G. W., 1205 E. Blount St., Pensacola, Fla., Chinchillas, Flemish Giants, Rufus, Red Belgians.
Henderson, G. M., Am. R. R. Express, Perrine, Fla., Chinchillas.
Hinshaw, Carl F., Lake Wales, Fla., Chinchillas, Flemish.
Holloman, Dr. E. P., 534 N. W. 2nd Ave., Miami, Fla.
Larrabee, C. W., M. D., Box 745, Bradenton, Fla., New Zealand Reds.
Lauton, W. M., 1011 N. W. 7th Ave., Miami, Fla., Reds, Giants.
Meares, G. L., 22nd St. and Tangerine Ave., St. Petersburg, Fla., Giants, etc.
Nalls, Dr. Z. T., Jasper, Fla., Rabbits.
Noble, Maynard, Box 771, Fort Myers. Fla.
Okell, George S., 713 W. Flagler St., Miami, Fla., Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds. Orders, R. D., Lakeview Addition, Pensacola, Fla., all breeds.
Ostermoeller, F. W., 5613 Bayshore Blvd., Tampa, Fla., Chinchillas.
Outman, W. D., Box 1014, Ft. Pierce, Fla., Chinchillas.
Parks, S. A., P. O. Box 1146, Manatee, Fla., Flemish and Havanas.
Payne, H. F., 866 N. W. 14 Court, Miami, Fla.
Preer, Jno. R., Ocala, Fla.
Robertson, H. S., 324 Palmira, Tampa, Fla., New Zealands.
Robnett, R. W„ Bartow, Fla.
Russell, Hamilton, 212 S. Palafox St., Pensacola, Fla., Chinchillas.
Scritsmier, A. N., P. O. Box 971, Bradenton, Fla.
Smith, Robert F., Cor. Trade St. and Inaugua Ave., Cocoanut Grove, Fla., Chinchillas. Spear, F. D., Box 34, Brooksville, Fla.
Waterhouse, R. C., 2524 N. W. 46th St., Miami, Fla.
Wells, Claude S., 139 16th Ave., North, St. Petersburg, Fla., Flemish Giants, English Chinchillas, and Blue Beverens.
Wheatley, W. N., P. O. Box 776, 41st and Baugamville Ave., Hialeah, Fla., Various Breeds.
Wilson, Frank S., 1669 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, Fla.
Winter, John F., Box 665, Manatee, Fla., New Zealand Reds.
Wright, Ernest, 245 N. State St., Morriston, Fla., Flemish Giants.
Young, Norman C., 1539 Eighth Ave., Bradenton, Fla., New Zealand Reds.
Broadhurst, R. S., Americus, Ga.
Christian, T. O., Oglesby Place, R. No. 2, Macon, Ga., Chinchillas and White Flemish. Cotton States Rabbit Farm, J. Junion, Hapeville, Ga., Chinchillas and White Beverens. Daugherty, H., 201 Pierce Ave., Macon, Ga., New Zealand Reds and Whites.
David, O. K., Winchester, Ga., Chinchillas.
Davis, W. D., Gen. Del., Mountain View, Ga., Chinchillas.
Durham, Dr. Howard H., 319 Grant Bldg., Atlanta, Ga., Flemish Giants, Chinchillas. Ellis, O. F., Forest Park, Ga., Chinchillas.
Griffin, T. C., 508 Charlton St., Valdosta, Ga., Chinchillas.
Hall, A. E., R. R. 3, Cordele, Ga., Chinchillas.
Harris, J. A., 320 Second St., Macon, Ga,
Hicks, R. B., 205 Buford Pl., Macon, Ga., New Zealands.
Junion, J., Hapeville, Ga., Chinchillas.
Keystone Rabbitry, 286 Haas Ave., S. E., Atlanta, Ga., Chinchillas.
Magee, Mrs. Charles, R. F. D. No. 1, Macon, Ga.
McElroy, Lester G., R. R. No. 3, Fairburn, Ga., Chinchillas.
Palmisano, Leonard, 198 Barber St., Athens, Ga., New Zealand Reds, Belgian Hares. Shanhan, J. T., Jr., Augusta, Ga., Niagara Rabbitry, 2529 Walton Way, New Zealands. Smith, Jesse Guy, 1243 Oak St., Atlanta, Ga.
Southern Rabbit Farm (Howard H. Durham, D. D. S.), 1596 Woodbine Ave., Atlanta, Ga., Chinchillas and Flemish.
Taylor, I. W., 22 Lang Ave., Hopeville, Ga., N. R. Chinchillas, All Varieties.
Thompson, J. R., 913 Church St., Decatur, Ga., Rufus Red Belgians.
Tolleson, T. E., 441 Langhorn St., S. W., Atlanta, Ga., Chinchillas.
Uncle Remus Rabbitry, Macon, Ga., Chinchillas.
Watkins, W. C., 1208 E. Henry St., Savannah, Ga., Chinchillas.
West, Mell H., Covington, Ga.
Greene, Miss Mabel. U. S. Experiment Sta., Honolulu, Hawaii.
Harris, M. L., 2045 Lanihuli Drive, Honolulu, T. H.
Horner, Carroll W., 2345 E. Manoa Rd., Honolulu, T. H.
Antisdel, Earl. Sagle, Idaho, Chinchillas and Black Silver Giants.
Bailey, Mrs. W. D., Box 56, Mountain Home, Idaho.
Blood, H. L. and E. D., Dover, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Bonwell, A. N., Filer, Idaho.
Bridgewater, Arthur, Box No. 42, Kootenai, Idaho.
Bushee, T. E., Priest River, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Collins, Clark, Hayden Lake, Idaho.
Hansen, W. M., Box 1007, St. Anthony, Idaho, Flemish Giants.
Jenkins, O. E., Preston. Idaho.
Jones, Carrol S., 156 N. Ridge Ave., Idaho Falls, Idaho.
King, Arvil H., Box 61, Georgetown, Idaho, Flemish Giants.
Land, Mrs. W. M., Box 425, McCall, Idaho, Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds.
MacCaw, John, R. R. No. 2, Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Martyn, E., Rt. 4, Boise, Idaho, New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas.
McDole, Mrs. R. A., Sagle, Idaho, New Zealand Whites, Chinchillas.
Merrill, Jay M., Island Park, Idaho.
Moats, A. L., Box 1219, Boise, Idaho.
Moss, Wilbur B., Clarksfork, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Peterson, Lyle R., R. No. 2, Parma, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Proch, Wesley, Gibonsville, Idaho.
Remlinger, Ervin, Springston, Idaho, Flemish in Steel, Gray, and Blue.
Reynolds, O. H., 3621 Broadway, R. R. No. 5, Boise, Idaho, Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites.
Rice, E. T., Parma, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Selmov, Frank, 229 13th St., Buhl, Idaho.
Sherman, E. R., Twin Falls, Idaho.
Sneed, Edgar J., P. O. Box 1126, Boise, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Stephenson, E. C., 322 S. Miller Ave., Burley, Idaho.
Talbot, Mrs. J. C., Box 600, Idaho Falls, Idaho, Flemish Giants.
Wadsworth, F. C., St. Anthony, Idaho. Grey Flemish Giants.
Warner, W. M., Meridian, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Baird, Nora, Kendall Co., Plano, Ill., Chinchillas.
Baldwin, A. E., 5723 N. Clark St., Chicago, Ill., Flemish and New Zealands.
Bales. J. S., R. F. D. No. 2, Springfield, Ill.
Bankoshi, Joseph, R. No. 3, Hinsdale, Ill., Flemish Giants.
Bartels, Henry E., Madison Co., Hartford, Ill., New Zealand Reds.
Bauer, Chas. E., 511 S. Second, Watseka, Ill., Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds. Belknap & Sherard, R. R. No. 10, Rockford, Ill., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants. Boettcher, Herbert, Ingraham, Ill., New Zealand Reds.
Breik, Joseph, Rt. 3, Box 45, Hinsdale, Ill.
Brewster, Mrs. Robt., 119th St. and 86th Ave., Palos Park, Ill., Chinchillas, Silver Black Foxes.
Brush, W. A., Crystal Lake, Ill.
Calkins, Chas. E., 1904 Wing Ave., St. Charles, Ill., Belgian Hares.
Chapman, G. P.f 502 S. Glenwood Ave., Springfield, Ill.
Chapman, J. A., 1780 Maple St., Kankakee, Ill., Chinchillas and New Zealands. Chapman, Victor, 263 Prairie, Bradley, Ill., all breeds.
Chapman, Mrs. Victor, 263 N. Prairie Ave., Bradley, Ill., Chinchillas.
Cox, Geo. N., R. R. No. 2, Roseville, Ill.
Cruse, Otis, 641 Whitelaw Ave., Wood River, Ill., Chinchillas.
Culdice, Francis T., Gen. Del., Argo, Ill., New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas.
Davis, Earl E., Cissna Park, Ill.
DeLong, Winston A., 2217 Shelby Ave., Mattoon, Ill.
Dopheide, Bernhard J., 1127 N. 11th St., Quincy, Ill., Chinchillas.
Eastman, F. W„ P. O. Box 364, Freeport, Ill., Golden Agouti, Silver Agouti, Himalayans, and Mixed Colored Cavies.
Everhart, Chas. C., P. O. Box 95, Lombard, Ill., Chinchillas.
Fanchier, V. M., 7342 S. May St., Chicago. Ill., American Blues.
Fara, Henry, 6420 W. 22nd St., Berwyn, Ill., Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds. Fiedler, Louis, R. F. D. No. 3, Aurora, Ill.
Flaherty, Miss N. M., 3024 Calumet Ave., Chicago, Ill., Flemish and All Breeds.
Flondor, Adolph, 143rd St., Orland, Ill.
Foley, Jas. P.t Chicago, Ill.
Ford, F. W., 25 E. Washington St., Chicago, Ill.
Fox, Farrell R., 268 N. Myrtle Ave., Kankakee, Ill., New Zealand Reds.
Frank, C., 4712 Magnolia Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Frendenburg, Max, 725½ First St., La Salle, Ill.
Fuller, Lew, 516 N. Clark St., Chicago, Ill., Rabbits.
Gilroy, F. J., Manchester, Ill., New Zealand Reds, Belgians, and Flemish.
Goddard, Roy R., Arrowsmith, Ill.
Graesch, Ed., 904 Rutledge St., Springfield, Ill., Flemish.
Hamilton, E. C., P. O. Box 565, Lockport, Ill., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants.
Hauter, W. B., Morton, Ill., Flemish.
Heck, Dr. Wm. L., 6141 S. Kilbourne Ave., Chicago, Ill., Chinchillas, White New Zealands.
Henderson, J. B., 6046 Harper Ave., Chicago, Ill., Chinchillas.
Hess, Duval C., 1415 Birch Place, Ottawa, Ill., Chinchillas and Mixed Cavies.
Holch, S. R., Gilman, Ill.
Hoover, F. H., 5128 S. Oak Park Ave., Chicago, Ill., Chinchillas, Black Siberians. Hudson, J. B., Jr., 324 E. 13th St., Gibson City, Ill., American Blues.
Inghels, Oscar, 3114 New England Ave., Chicago, Ill., Flemish Giants, Chinchillas. Isom, Dr. W. C., 327A Missouri Ave., E. St. Louis, Ill, New Zealand Reds.
Jelus, John, 6960 Barry Ave., Chicago, Ill., Belgian Hares, Checkers, Giant Chinchillas, and Cavies.
Jordan. Wayne, 232 Lincoln Ave., Watseka, Ill, Flemish Giants.
Kanores, Jas., 4319 Prairie Ave., Chicago, Ill., Flemish.
Kaufholdt, L., Jr., R. No. 1, Box 46, Crystal Lake, Ill., New Zealand Whites.
Keest, Johnnie, Middletown, Ill., Checkered Giants, Flemish, Chinchillas, American Blues. Kuenzi, Mrs. John, 311 N. 4th St., Fairbury, Ill.
Lange, Albert, 904 Vine Ave., Park Ridge, Ill.
Lawner, Roy, Box 64, Lena, Ill.
Maasen, Sam, Lisle, Ill., Chinchillas.
Marhold, Mrs. B. F., Greenview, Ill., Flemish Giants and Angoras.
Mayo, Witey, 1122 Illinois Ave., E. St. Louis, Ill., Flemish.
McCasland, J. O., 3005 Belleview Ave., E. St. Louis, Ill.
McCoy, Will, 1585 N. Morgan St., Decatur, Ill., Cavies and New Zealands.
Mellinger, Dr. H. A., 402 Tarbox Bldg., Freeport, Ill.
Mendenhall, F. C., 1602 N. Gilbert St., Box 168, Danville, Ill., Flemish.
Mitchell, A. N., Groveland, Ill.
Morgan, J. W., Orient, Ill., Mixed Stock.
Morrell, Fenton, Watseka, Ill., Flemish Giants.
Nelson, A. H., Braidwood, Ill., Chinchillas.
Oleson, Ervin, 1204 Wheeler St., Woodstock, Ill.
Otto, E. L., Box 2, Freeport, Ill.
Peters, A. W., Crystal Lake, Ill., Chinchillas.
Price, Jos. H., 208 N. King, Robinson, Ill.
Priebe, Rudolph, 4107 N. Marmora Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Ravens, Geo. P., 531 W. Mertans Ave., Kankakee, Ill., Checkers and Flemish Giants. Rishter, Eugene, 2023 Cleveland Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Roberts, Lcander, 476 E. Exchange St., Sycamore, Ill.
Rollean, A. S., 2009 N. Eleventh St., Springfield, Ill., Flemish.
Salyards, Loyal, Gibson City, Ill., Flemish Giants.
Sandberg, Nille, 536 Grant Pl., Chicago, Ill.
Sapp, A. W., 208 E. Marietta, Peoria, Ill., Chinchillas.
Schaeffer, Edward, East Dickson St., Milan, Ill., Chinchillas.
Schunmeyer, Wm., 3434 W. 62nd Pl., Chicago, Ill.
Schurecht, Fred, Jr., 5015 N. Western Ave., Chicago, Ill., Himalayans and Albinos. Schurecht, Chas., Morton Grove, Ill.
Shad, C. J., 237 E. Delaware PL, Chicago, Ill.
Shaeffner, Paul R., Chicago, Ill.
Shaw, H. S., Metamora, Ill., Flemish Giants.
Shinkle, Harry, 1106 N. 13th St., Springfield, Ill., Flemish.
Slocum, C., 5818 W. Ohio St., Chicago, Ill.
Smith, Geo. C., 5942 Ada St., Chicago, Ill., Belgian Hares.
Steib, E. G., 7600 Bosworth Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Steinkuehlcr, Ed., 1228 N. 14th St., Springfield, Ill., Flemish Giants.
Stewart, Wm. R., 1204 Highland Ave., Pekin, Ill., Chinchillas.
Stream, John J., R. 2, Antioch, Ill.
Sullivan, R. R., 1015 N. 14th St., Springfield, Ill., Flemish and Himalayans.
Swanson, Oscar, Box 1605, Rockford, Ill.
Sweatt, Frank D., R. R. 1, Coal Valley, Ill.
Tholl, Mrs. H., 11519 Princeton Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Timmons, P. A., 2508 Richmond Ave., Mattoon, Ill.
Tuma, Chas., R. R. No. 5, Peoria, Ill., Chinchillas.
-Tuttley, L., 297 Col. Rd., Clarendon Hills, Ill.
Van Risseghem, Cyril J. Greenvalley Farms, Wheaton, Ill., Chinchilla Giants, White Polish Rabbits, Gold and Silver Aongtis, Cavies.
Voyzey, Geo., R. R. 5, Box 45, Springfield, Ill., Angoras.
Walter, E. J., 109 N. Elmwood Ave., Peoria, Ill.
Walter, Harold B., Lock Box 117, Easton, Ill.
Webster, Mrs. Chas., Fisher, Ill., G. C. Chinchillas and G. C. White New Zealands. Weckler, Edw. M., R. F. D. No. 1, Crystal Lake, Ill.
Weeks, G. W., Fremont, Ill.
Weisser, George, 124 Broadway St., Peoria, Ill., Flemish Giants.
Weygandt, Arthur, 7408 Normal Ave., Chicago, Ill., Blue Flemish.
Weygandt, Mrs. Ethel, 7408 Normal Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Wick, Herman F., 2223 N. Lawndale Ave., Chicago, Ill., New Zealand Reds.
Williams, H. G., c/o Palace Cash Market, 125 W. 1st St., Elmhurst, Ill.
Wiseman, Fred, Box 69, Macomb, Ill.
Wolf, Joseph, Chicago, Ill.
Wood, Otis L., Carthage, Ill., Chinchillas.
Young, Louis, 104 W. South St., Du Quoin, Ill., Chinchillas.
Zahnow, John, 2232 Oakdale Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Zapushek, John, 905 Humbolt St., Peoria, Ill., Flemish Giants.
Abram, Abey, 100 N. Randolph St., Garrett, Ind., Chinchillas, Giants, Himalayans, Flemish, Cavies.
Becker, Louis, University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame, Ind.
Belavic, Michael, Box 53, Kleinman Rd., Highland, Ind., Chinchillas and American Checkered Giants.
Bell, W. W., R. R. "A,” Terre Haute, Ind., Chinchillas.
Bissey, Michael O., 422 Jackson St., Huntingburg, Ind., Chinchillas.
Bryson, F. O., R. No. 4, Connersville, Ind.
Byrum, Jesse, R. R. 2, Spencer, Ind., Chinchillas.
Canine, M. M., Marshall, Ind.
Casady, Elmer, 1126 N. Dearborn St., Indianapolis, Ind., New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas. Compton, G. Edwin, 900 W. Hexington, Elkhart, Ind.
De Wolf, E. A., Upland, Grant Co., Ind., English Cavies and New Zealand Red Rabbits. Edwards, Mrs. Frank E., P. 0. Box 75, Knightstown, Ind., New Zealand Reds. Eikenberry, Rev. J. K., 612 N. Union St., Delphi, Ind., Flemish Giants, Steel Grays and Blues.
Fehr, John C., 1302 Woodlawn Ave., Indianapolis, Ind., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Fisher, M. E., Box 185, Oaktown, Ind., Belgian Hares, New Zealands.
Flank, Carl, St. Mary's Convent, Notre Dame, Ind.
Fullois, Ed., 1209 Evision St., Indianapolis, Ind., Dutch, English Silver Gray, R., Red, Black and Tan, Blue and Tan.
Good, Chas. S., 3410 S. Felton St., Marion, Ind., New Zealands.
Goodman, Ed., Rt. B, Gary, Ind., American Checkered Giants.
Green, C. E., Parker, Ind., American Blue Belgian Hare Meat.
Harrison, L, B., Jeffersonville, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Hoffman, Karl E., 2134 Eby Ave., Fort Wayne, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Long, Geo. A., R. F. D. No. 4, Crawfordsville, Ind., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds, Flemish Giants.
Long, J. G., Summitville, Ind.
McClarry, V. C., Hobart, Ind.
McCrackin, Chas. W., Knox, Ind., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds.
McCray, Roy E„ 305 W. Bender, Knox, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
McDaniel, A. W., 821 Park Ave., Franklin, Ind., Chinchilla Rabbits, Mixed and Solid Colored Cavies.
McFadden, H. N., 1537 Eichle Ave., Evansville, Ind., Rabbits.
McKee, Horace N., 319 Monger Bldg., Elkhart, Ind.
Marshall, V., Box 3, Kendallville, Ind.
Mattix, Raymond, R. R. 1, Mitchell, Ind., Chinchillas.
Merryman, J. I., Box 247, Milford, Ind., Chinchillas.
Metcalf, F. R., R. No. 10, Ft. Wayne, Ind., New Zealand Reds, Blue and Black Flemish. Moran, Clyde, R. R. 2, Mo. 17 A, Chinchillas.
Morrison, Lindsey, 711 Sohl St., Hammond, Ind.
Overman, Roy & Sons, R. R. No. 2, Windfall, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Peigh, Floyd B., Gen. Del., Ft. Wayne, Ind.
Pickett, John H,. Fountain City, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Robinette's Rabbitry, Veedersburg, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Samm, Les A., 211 W. Maryland St., Evansville, Ind.
Scull, S. D., Emison, Ind.
Shannon, L. E., 213 Queen St., Goshen, Ind., New Zealand Reds, Flemish and Chinchillas. Smith, Irvin, R. R. 1, Hebron, Ind.
Smith, Joseph A., 427 S. 15th St., Newcastle, Ind.
Swarthout, W. P., 425 Broadway, Aurora, Ind., Flemish.
Throop, Harold L., R. F. D. No. 6, Elkhart, Ind.
Very Red New Zealand Red Rabbitries, Richland, Ind., New Zealands.
Washburn, Harry, 1314 Ringgold Ave., Indianapolis, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Wehmer, George, R. R. No. 5, Princeton, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Wilson, R, L., Webster, Ind., Flemish, New Zealands, and Dutch.
Wines, Willie, Greentown, Ind., Chinchillas.
Woodlawn Caviary, 119 North Perry St., Attica, Ind.
Ackerman, H. L., Bedford, Ia.
Barrett, R. J., 1st and Nebraska Sts., Sioux City, Ia., Natural Gray Flemish Giants. Berhow, Seward, R. R. 4, Ames, Ia., Flemish Giants.
Blair, W. H., Lamoni, Ia., New Zealands.
Biemann, J. H., Denver, Ia., Chinchillas.
Boots, J. M., Hampton, Ia.
Brandt, Oran, Castalia, Ia., Chinchillas.
Braun, Roy E., 628 8th St., Ames, Ia., Belgian Hares.
Carpenter, Geo. M., 1309 W. Baltimore St., Waterloo, Ia., Chinchillas.
Carpenter, W. I., 214 E. Logan St., Clarinda, Ia., New Zealand Reds.
Cedar Rapids Rabbit & Fur Farm Co., Box 441, Cedar Rapids, Ia.
Crawford, R. H., 408 W. 3rd St., Vinton, Ia., Cavies.
Crooks, Kenneth E., 1308 North Ave., Cedar Rapids, Ia.
DeLap, Geo. H., 1706 W. 3rd St., Sioux City. Ia.
Deverell, W. E., 2716 Rebecca St., Sioux City, Ia., Chinchillas.
Dickey, G. M., 1017 N. Jersey, Mason City, Ia.
Dolphin, J. J., Ryan, Ia., Chinchillas.
Eastman, F. H., Bode, Ia.
Edelen, Walter, Box 415, Brooklyn, Ia.
Ermels, Carl, 109 W. 3rd St., Vinton, Ia.
Eyres, C. J., R. No. 2, Lemars, Ia., Flemish Giants.
Finley, A. M., R. No. 3, Clarinda, Ia., White New Zealands.
Florian, H. C., Story St., Rock Rapids, Ia., Chinchillas.
Flummer, J. W., Bedford, Ia., New Zealands.
Fowler, Geo., 404 N. State St., Lamoni, Ia., Chinchillas.
Fuller, Harry, Monticello, Ia., Stahl's Golden Standard and Giants, Chinchillas, Exclusively.
Garrison, Paul, 1121 W. 11th St., Cedar Rapids, Ia., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds and Whites.
Gerve, Elsie, West Burlington, Ia.
Glassner, Geo. A., P. O. Box 705, Dubuque, Ia., Chinchillas.
Grace, W. J., Clearfield, Ia., New Zealand Reds.
Groff, K. K., Blairstown, Ia.
Hass, Geo., Camanche, Ia., Chinchillas.
Heid, Lawrence, 409 E. Arch St., Dyersville, Ia., New Zealands.
Huffman, Mrs. C. B., Bloomfield, Ia.
Iowa Rabbitry, Blue Grass, Ia.
Jacobs, H. E., 706 5th Ave., Charles City, Ia., New Zealand Whites and Chinchillas. Jacobs, Mrs. O. L., Charles City, Ia., Chinchillas.
Johnson, Lafayette U., Shellsburg, Ia., Flemish Giants.
Krayer, W. J., R. F. D. No. 3, Box 57, Dubuque, Ia., Chinchillas.
Lister, E. E., Bedford, Ia., Flemish Giants.
Malmanger, Elmer, 417 12th St., Ames, Ia.
Malone, Byrl, No. 7th St., Chariton, Ia.
Mann, Mamie, 1504 Mt. Pleasant, Burlington, Ia., Chinchillas.
McCartney, P. V., 414 Tama St., Boone, Ia.
McCullough, H. D., 1412 Alpha Ave., Des Moines, Ia.
Meredith, A. F., R. No. 4, Estherville, Ia.
Monilan, Ed., 2240 1st Ave., Cedar Rapids, Ia.
Nelsen, Nels F., Rt. 5, Box 35, Council Bluffs, Ia., Chinchillas.
O'Neal, C. W., 2440 Avenue G, Council Bluff's, Ia.
Paterson, W. I., P. O. Box No. 324, Nora Springs, Ia.
Patrick, Howard C., R. R. 2, Lamoni, Ia.
Patton, W. H., 828 Rider St., Iowa City, Ia., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds.
Phelps, Waldo E., 310 E. Monroe St., Mt. Pleasant, Ia.
Phillips, Geo. S., Box 471, Des Moines, Ia.
Rathbon, R. E., 208 W. 15th St., Sioux City, Ia.
Rhule, Whitfield, Box 417, Vinton, Ia., Chinchillas.
Richardson, Glen F., 2002 4th Ave., Council Bluffs, Ia.
Richey, E. F., Rinard, Ia.
Rife, O. A., Shellsburg, Ia.
Robbins, Omar, 1239 Lincoln Ave., Davenport, Ia.
Rosenau, Harry, Lakota, Ia., Chinchillas.
Roth & Lamson, 501 S. Main St., Fairfield, Ia., Chinchillas.
Russell, C. W., Keota, Ia., New Zealand Reds.
Smith, Gilbert L., 139 Williston Ave., Waterloo, Ia., Chinchillas.
Sulzer, Harry B., 1830 E. 11th St., Davenport, Ia., New Zealands.
Sydebotham, L. R., 1403 Sheridan Ave., Iowa City, Ia., Flemish and New Zealand Reds. Thorson, Clarence, Kanaeha, Ia.
Toppenberg, Ole, 1236 7th Ave., Nevada, Ia., Flemish Giants.
Treasure Kennels, Flora Sumner, W. M., Kayser, Hawarden, Ia.
Trent, C. W., Ellsworth, Ia., New Zealand Reds and Cavies.
Van Horn, H. A., 1325 A Ave. E., Cedar Rapids, Ia.
Van Trump, A. H., Salem, Ia., Chinchillas.
Watkins, Fred, 413 E. 2nd St., Muscatine, Ia., New Zealand Reds.
Weld, F. M., 704 W. 4th St., Lamoni, Ia., Chinchillas.
Abelson, Burgess, 613 N. 3rd St., Arkansas City, Kans., New Zealands.
Ableson, Geo. C., 110 S. 1st, Arkansas City, Kans.
Beach, Irl S., 840 S. Hillside, Wichita, Kans., White New Zealands, Chinchillas. Bienfang, Jno., 325 S. C, Arkansas City, Kans.
Blevens, Frank, 1420 Federal St., Kansas City, Kans.
Borst, Fred P., 657 S. 4th St., Salina, Kans., Chinchillas, Flemish.
Brown, Walter L., 1508 N. 8th, Arkansas City, Kans.
Burg, C. Angelyn, Motor Route A, Lakin, Kans., Kearney Co.
Chapman, J. O., 417 E. 20th St., Pittsburg, Kans., Flemish Giants.
Chase, Mrs. A. C., Nickerson, Kans., Chinchillas, New Zealands, and Cavies. Conser, Mrs. E. H., 914 S. 3rd, Arkansas City, Kans.
Cookus, J. W., 318 Sycamore St., Ottawa, Kans.
Cordry, F. R., R. F. D. 2, Preston, Kans., Flemish Giants.
Curfman, Guy L., 900 N. A, Arkansas City, Kans.
Deplue, John, Jr., Frontenac, Kans.
Dunmire, Joe A., R. D. No. 1, Box 171C, Wichita, Kans.
Eis, Charlie L., 917 Klomey, Manhattan, Kans., New Zealand Reds.
Fairchild, E. C., 1105 W. Douglas Ave., Wichita, Kans.
Fearing, Ted, Almena, Kans., Chinchillas.
Foreman, Jack, Medora, Kans., Chinchillas.
Fouts, Mrs. I. M., R. R. 1, Chinchillas, New Zealands.
Gentry, Mrs. Myrtle, 1006 Santa Fe, Chanute, Kans., Cavies, Chinchillas.
Gotti, Dan., R. R. No. 1, Pittsburg, Kans., Giants and New Zealand Reds. Haney, H. H., 800 E. Eighth St., Topeka, Kans., Chinchillas.
Harmon, Mrs. Geo., R. R. 5, Box 3G, Wichita, Kans., Cavies.
Hartter, Geo., 1523 Roosevelt St., Sabetha, Kans.
Hill, H. W„ Box 153, Parker, Kans.
Hillcrest Rabbit Farm, Inc., Baldwin City, Kans.
Homan, Thos. W., General Delivery, Derby, Kans.
Houston, John R., 823 N. 3rd, Arkansas City, Kans., New Zealands.
Ibsen, Prof. Heman L., Kansas State Agricultural College, Manhattan, Kans.
Jones, A. D. & Son, 128 S. Camel St., Emporia, Kans., Chinchillas.
Keen, Herbert L., 915 S. 1st, Arkansas City, Kans.
Keller, Clint J., 922 S. B St., Arkansas City, Kans., Chinchillas.
Laird, Mrs. I. W., 715 Broadway, Newton, Kans., Chinchillas.
Lawrence, R. E., 636 S. Hillside, Wichita, Kans.
Leighton, V. V., Yates Center, Kans.
Lewis, E. W., 1501 North Michigan, Pittsburg, Kans., Flemish Giants.
Lother, P. H., Rt. 1, Scammon, Kans.
Matthews, Harry, 20 S. State St., Emporia, Kans.
Meeker, A. R., Cheney, Kans., White Rats and Mice.
Meeker, H. W., 608 N. 4th, Arkansas City, Kans.
McMurtry, H. G., 1305 Kansas Ave., Topeka, Kans.
Oliver, D., 1514 S. H, Arkansas City, Kans., New Zealand Reds, Flemish Giants, Chinchillas.
Pfundt, Rev. E., Holyrood, Kans.
Reeves, G. A., 205 E. 14th St., Pittsburg, Kans., American Blues.
Richardson, L. J., Security Natl. Bank Bldg., Arkansas City, Kans.
Ripple, Ray G., 609 W. Elm St., Salina, Kans., Flemish Giants.
Rogers, Oleta, Box 294, Wellington, Kans.
Salter, A. W., 1532 Ellis Ave., Wichita, Kans., Steel Flemish, Black, White Dutch. Shipe, R. E., 5 College St., Salina, Kans.
Smith, Charley C., 915 S. 2nd, Arkansas City, Kans.
Smith & Hansen, Box 133, Preston, Kans., Chinchillas.
Stewart, Mrs. Mary C., 800 W. 17th, Hutchinson, Kans.
Stoner, M., 1134 S. Seneca St,, Wichita, Kans., Cavies.
Storms, Reed, Welborn Rt. No. 4, Kansas City, Kans., Belgian Hares.
Strickler, Allen R., 1510 S. H St., Arkansas City, Kans.
Sturgill, Mrs. M. E., 1302 E. 12th St., Winfield, Kans.
Stuteville, W. T., Spring Hill, Kans.
Sundahl, Ed., McPherson, Kans.
Swisher, Guy, Lyons, Kans., Chinchillas.
United Rabbit & Cavie Co., P. O. Box 300, Frontenac, Kans., Flemish Giants.
Walker, O. R., Durham, Kans., New Zealands.
Wheeler, Carson A., 933 S. 4th St., Salina, Kans., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Wiley, A, L., Colby Rabbitry, Colby, Kans.
Wolf, Amos, Rt. 5, Box 113, Wichita, Kans.
Yenser, Elmo L., Delphos, Kans.
Bow, S. H., Box 449, Louisville, Ky.
Bray, Richard E., Rt. No. 1, Alexandria, Ky., Chinchillas.
Caldwell, Mrs. W. B., Bowling Green, Ky.
Clark, J. B., 1904 Monroe St., Paducah, Ky., Reds and Chinchillas.
Combs, Woodson, P. O. Box 96, Bonnyman, Ky., New Zealands.
Cornelison, Russell W., 2208 Wilson Ave., Louisville, Ky., New Zealand Reds.
Duncan, Jas. V., P. O. Box 82, Hopkinsville, Ky., Nat. Gray Flemish.
Funk, Joseph A., Box 62, Henderson, Ky., Chinchillas.
Gilchrist, Winnie, 815 S. 19th St., Louisville, Ky., R. R. Belgians and Flemish.
Grant, J. E., 219 S. 21st St., Louisville, Ky., New Zealands.
McIntosh, Miss Nora, Faith Orphanage of Kentucky, Hollansville, Wolfe Co., Ky., New Zealand Reds.
Peters, Ralph G., Hazard, Ky., New Zealands.
Reed, H. H., 73 McCracken Ave., Newport, Ky.. Chinchillas.
Taylor, Boyd, 12 Beech Ave., Southgate, Ky. (Cincinnati, Ohio, P. O.).
Wells, Stanley H., Lexington, Ky., Flemish Giants.
Allgood, D. S., Antioch, La., Black Siberians.
Beauchamp, S., 2728 Frederick St., Shreveport, La., Belgian Hares.
Caddo Rabbitry & Cavery, Gen. Del., (R. M. Bowen & Son) Shreveport, La., White Angoras, New Zealands, and Red Cavies.
Castay, M. L., 1835 Main St., Baton Rouge, La.
Delatte, Paul, Vacherie, La., Chinchillas.
Fulton, R., 3263 Exposition, Shreveport, La.
Futch, J. N., 686 1/2 Jordan St., Shreveport, La., Giants and Chinchillas.
Reynolds, E. F., Oil City, La.
Reynolds, Frank O., Apt. R, 910 S. Carrollton Ave., New Orleans, La.
Rucker, F. M., 2724 Darien St., Shreveport, La., New Zealands.
Sevier, Mrs. G. W., Sr., c/o James Sevier, Jr., Tallulah, La., Chinchillas.
Black, A. W., Winthrop, Me., Flemish, New Zealands.
Bridges, J. F„ Newfield, Me.
Cuozzo, R. Franklin, 719 Main St., Bangor, Me., American Checkers Giants, New Zealands.
Daggett, Chester W., North Monmouth, Me., New Zealands, Flemish, Chinchillas.
Dudley, Lester L., Presque Isle, Me.
Fellows, Samuel Walter, 499 Main St., Dexter, Me., Flemish Giants.
Freitas, John, 65 Monroe St., Augusta, Me., Flemish.
Graves, Robert, Smyrna Mills, Me.
Grover, Dana A., R. D. No. 3, West Paris, Me., Flemish Giants and English Cavies. Hammond, R. W., West Kennebunk, Me., Flemish Giants.
Hartwell, Wm. J., Summer St., North Anson, Me., Flemish Giants.
Hight, W. F., 228 State St., Bangor, Me.
Hodsdon, Harry B., North Monmouth, Me., Flemish, New Zealands, Chinchillas. Houghton, Vance L., Lee, Maine.
Krusen, Monts, Cape Monday Farm, Harrison, Me.
Leonard, Rev. W. B., Box 12, Donforth, Me., Flemish Giants.
Little, W. M., Rockland, Me.
Marsland, Albert E., R. No. 8, Hallowell, Me.
Monk, A. P., R. F. D. No. 44, Clinton, Me., Flemish Giants.
Park, Henry W., Mexico, Me.
Pennington, J. E. D., Winthrop, Me., New Zealands.
Reed, Chas. L., 14 Fernald St., Portland, Me.
Sanborn, Kenneth E., P. O. Winthrop R. F. D., Monmouth, Me., Flemish Giants.
Stetson, G. H., Monmouth, Me.
Stevens, F. C., 34 Main St., Lee, Me.
Tilton, Susie, Wilton, Me., Flemish Giants.
Vieno, Mrs. Edna, Kenduskeag, Me.
Violet, Mrs. Doris, Wilton, Me., Flemish Giants.
Angel, S. R., Pasadena, Md.
Belmont Caviary, Fredk, C. Kruelle, 4515 Belmont Ave., Lauraville, Baltimore, Md. Bisker, Anthony, Freeland, Md., American Blues, Flemish Giants, and Cavies.
Bowers, J. Denton, 19 Park Ave., Westminster, Md., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants. Brookside Rabbitry, Keymar, Md., Flemish Giants, Steel, Gray, and Blue.
Buck, Walter E., Pt. Deposit, Md., Flemish.
Bull, Dr. C. J., The Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Md.
Cearfoss, Preston, R. F. D. No. 2, Clearspring, Md., Flemish Giants.
Cross, Jno. H., 716 Gladstone Ave., Roland Pk., Baltimore, Md.
Deatrich, C. R., Maugansville, Md., Flemish Giants.
Denny, Jacob S., Queenstown, Md.
Fogel, Clyde H., Box 36, Walkersville, Md., New Zealands.
Frank, Wm. J., 1328 Hollins St., Baltimore, Md.
Gontz, M. L., 69 E. Antietam St., Hagerstown, Md., Flemish Giants.
Hagerman, R. N., Maugansville, Md., New Zealand Reds.
Johnston, E. A., 1209 Garrett Bldg., Baltimore, Md., New Zealands.
Kelly, Jas. A., R. R. 2, Darlington, Harford Co., Md.
Lovell, Mrs. J. J., 122 Church Ave., Violetville, Baltimore, Md., English and Dutch. Mahoney, Lieut. John, U. S. N,, Box 165, Raymond Ave., Indian Head, Md., Flemish, New Zealands, and Chinchillas.
Peters, A. W,, Commerce St., P. O. Box 85, Berlin, Md., Chinchillas.
Roberts, Robert L., Box 428, Easton, Md., Flemish Giants.
Rogers & Tate, 2621 Dulaney St., Baltimore, Md., English Spots, Havanas, French and R. R. Belgians.
Royer, Howell B., 50 Carroll St., Westminster, Md.
Saylor, Louis W., 2605 Kate Ave., Baltimore, Md.
Stull, Wade H., Thurmont, Md.
Stultz, Chas., 911 Chestnut St., Hagerstown, Md., Flemish Giants, Cavies.
Taylor, Dr. Frank W., Caroline Co., Box 117, Ridgely, Md.
Wilson, C. J., Harney, Md.. Flemish Giants, Dutch and New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas. Zeigler, Harvey F., 64 E. Washington St., Hagerstown, Md., Flemish Giants.
Zile, P. H., Rt. No. 2, New Windsor, Md., Flemish Giants.
Allen, W. Howard, No. 4 Ferdinand St., Worcester, Mass., New Zealand Reds.
Alley, Norman, West Tisbury, Mass., New Zealands, Whites and Reds.
Andrews, Melvin, Box 47, Ware, Mass.
Babbitt, Earl S., 36 Barnum St., Taunton, Mass., New Zealand Reds and Flemish Giants. Batellio & Travers, 68 Blackmere St., New Bedford, Mass., Flemish Giants.
Betteucmit, M. J., 1077 Plainville Rd., New Bedford, Mass., Flemish Giants.
Bingley, James L., Florence St., Whalom, Fitchburg, Mass., Gray Flemish.
Bourne, Ezra J., 34 Nash Ave., Brockton, Mass., Flemish.
Briggs, Charles, Dartmouth, Mass., Flemish.
Byron, Henry G., 193 Towne St., Attleboro Falls, Mass.
Carr, Miss Mary U., 23 Centiniel St., Plymouth, Mass.
Casper, Teser, 1227 Plainville Rd., New Bedford, Mass., Checkered and Flemish. Chandler, C. F., 66 Hedge St., Fairhaven, Mass.
Cramdell, C. W., 63 Lake Ave., Worcester, Mass., New Zealand Reds.
Cunha, Theodore August, 302 Russell Mills Rd., So. Dartmouth, Mass., Flemish Giants. De Classant, John Henry, 465 High St., Box 534, P. O. Randolph, Mass., New Zealand Reds and Blue Beverens.
Dias, Luiz L., 369 Main St., Fairhaven, Mass.
Donoghy, W. H., Box 253, R. 3, Middleboro, Mass.
Dumont, Louis, Tewksbury St., Ballard Vale, Mass., New Zealand Reds, Flemish Giants. Erikson, Iver J., 480 Burncoat St., Worcester, Mass.
Gandrean, Jos., Box 53, North Dartmouth, Mass., Flemish, Black, Steel, Sandy Gray Flemish.
Garrison, A. C., N. Hoosac Rd., Box 872, Williamstown, Mass., New Zealands.
Green, Louis M., R. R. 1, Vineyard Haven, Mass., New Zealand Whites.
Greene, M. H., Box 36, City Mills, Mass.
Gustin, Chas. B., Lindsey St., Attleboro, Mass., Flemish.
Gustin, Lester C., 30 Cliff St., Arlington Heights, Mass.
Hammond, Wm. H., Lunds Corner Sta., New Bedford, Mass.
Hansen, Alfred, 196 Chestnut Ave., Jamaica Plains, Mass.
Hardison, Williams, 160 N. Main St., Raynham, Mass.
Harriman, Chas. H., 25 Morey St., Lowell, Mass.. Flemish.
Herbert, Albert, 55 Prosperity St., Swampscott, Mass., Chinchillas.
Herbert, Robert, 207 Durfee St., New Bedford, Mass., Flemish.
Heinze, Albert J., Hayden Rowe St., Hopkinton, Mass., New Zealand Reds.
Herman, Clarence W., 33 Nye Ave., Brockton, Mass., Flemish.
Herman, F. A., 33 Nye Ave., Brockton, Mass., Flemish, New Zealand Reds.
Hindle, R. Houghton, 124 Nyes Lane, Acuslinet, Mass., New Zealand Reds.
Hubbard, Dr. E., Jr., 29 Highland St., Cambridge, Mass., English and Peruvian Cavies. Hunt, William L., 89 1/2 Holman St., Attleboro, Muss.
Johnson, Mrs. H. D., Canton, Mass., Flemish Giants.
Lassell, W. H., 20 Friend St., Taunton, Mass., New Zealands.
Lawton, Edward T., 220 Front St., Marion, Mass., Flemish Giants.
Leach, Isaic W., 36 Barnum St., Taunton, Mass., New Zealand Reds, Flemish.
Leach, Mrs. F. N., 88 Spring St., Stoneham, Mass., Flemish.
Leonard, H. H., 430 Lacey St., Box 92, North Andover, Mass., Flemish Giants, New Zealands.
Leroy, J. T., 61 Alvarado Ave., Worcester, Mass.
Liston, Fred A., Worthington, Mass., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants.
Loker, Earl M., 77 Speer St., Natick, Mass., Chinchillas.
Lowell, Ralph S., 391 Lexington St., Auburndale, Mass., Rabbits, Guinea Pigs, White Mice.
Lurvey, F. J., 258 Broadway, Somerville, Mass., English Cavies.
Lymon, Chas. Peirson, Elm St., Ponkapoog, Mass.. Flemish Giants.
Macy, Herbert F., 222 Union St., New Bedford, Mass., New Zealand Reds.
Marble, E. W., R. F. D. No. 1, Sutton, Mass.
Martin, Richard H., 51 Nelson Pl., Worcester, Mass., Chinchillas.
Martin, W. F., 786 Broadway, Cliftondale, Mass., Flemish Giants, Cavies.
Materich, Joseph, 1619 Shawmut Ave., New Bedford, Mass.
Matthews, Chas., 123 County St., New Bedford, Mass.
McCarthy Bros., 138 Thompson St., Middleboro, Mass., New Zealand Reds.
Medeiros, Charles, 164 Durfee St., New Bedford, Mass., Flemish.
Mendel, Henry G., 94 Bay State Rd., Pittsfield, Mass., Cavies.
Miller, Geo. W., P. O. Box 51, Bellingham, Mass., Flemish Giants and Standard Chinchillas.
Morse, Susie W., Mattapoisette, Mass.
Mundell, Graydon, R. R. 1, Box 122, Holyoke, Mass., Flemish Giants.
Mutlew, L. J., 54 Martin St., Attleboro, Mass., New Zealand Reds.
Nason, Daniel A., Jr., Overbrook Drive, Wellesley, Mass.
Packard, Fred Geo., 57 Beacon St., No. Adams, Mass., Smooth Haired English Cavies. Peck, Warren H., 139 Standish Ave., Plymouth, Mass., Steel Black and Gray Flemish. Perry, Mrs. C. H., Otis, Mass., New Zealand Reds.
Peterson, Elmer O., R. R. 1, Greenwood Rd., Andover, Mass., Chinchillas.
Pitman, Donald P., 127 N. Main St., Mansfield, Mass.
Rezendes, M. F., 45 Middle Rd., Acushnet, Mass., Flemish.
Richardson, Allen, 29 Lord St., Attleboro, Mass., Flemish Giants.
Richter, John, No. 3 Brewster Ave., No. Plymouth, Mass., Flemish.
Rickards, Elias E., 6 Ellen St., Worcester, Mass., Various Breeds.
Saarm, Henry, Main St., Medfield, Mass., Belgians.
Schneider, T. L., 84 Pearson Rd., W. Somerville, Mass., New Zealand Reds.
Simpson, Raymond E., Millis, Mass., Chinchillas.
Stevens, Seth O., 413 Alden Rd., Fairhaven, Mass., Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds. Streeter, Clarence, 34 Richard St., Worcester, Mass.
Sullivan, Wm. J., 7 Caswell St., East Taunton, Mass., New Zealand Reds, Rufus Reds, Belgians, and Flemish Giants.
Taylor, Robt. N., Columbus Ave., No. Easton, Mass.
Turcott, Lloyd A., 10 Garfield St., Franklin, Mass., New Zealands, Chinchillas, English Cavies.
Turner, A. J., Jr., 3 1/2 Summer St., Beverly, Mass., New Zealands.
Turner Rabbitry, Inc., 12 Boylston St., Brookline, Mass.
Valliere, Joseph C., 71 Federal St., Lynn, Mass.
Vincent, Charles, P. O. Box 14, Fair Haven Harbor View, Mass.
Wainwright, Geo, W., Wheeler Ave., R. D. 2, Box 88, Orange, Mass., Flemish Giants. Warnock, Archie, R. F. D. No. 3, Box 116A, Amherst, Mass., Chinchillas.
Webb, Wm. R., Baker Lane, Amherst, Mass., Cavies.
Wellman, Chas. N., 983 Franklin St., Melrose Highlands, Mass.
Webster, Dayton A.,. 80 Boylton St., Boston, Mass.
White, Geo. E., Brook St., East Holliston, Mass., Chinchillas.
White, Geo. F., Main St., Westford, Mass.
Wilson, Geo. H., Rt. 1, Peakham Rd., So. Sudbury, Mass., Flemish Giants and White Pink Eye.
Witkos, Walter, 111 James St., Acushnet, Mass.
Betancourt, I. Bravo, 3a Calle De Loudres No. 34, Mexico City, Mexico.
Allen, Clinton J., 808 E. Second Ave., Royal Oaks, Mich.
Altman, Clarence, Boon, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Anderson, Earl A., 30 1/2 N. Jefferson Ave., Battle Creek, Mich., Belgian Hares, Flemish, and Checkers.
Anderson, Ole J., R. R. 4, Imlay, Mich.
Archie, D. W., 215 E. Hughitt St., Iron Mountain, Mich.
Armstrong, A. A., Edmore, Mich.
Arnold, John T., Parkdale and Rochester Rd., Royal Oak, Mich., New Zealand Reds. Barbour, H. F., 708 N. Hamilton, Saginaw, Mich., Chinchillas.
Barton, Basil, 183 E. 10th St., Holland, Mich.
Becker, Rudolph, 413 George St., Sturgis, Mich.
Bell, Wm. C., R. No. 9, Box 683, Detroit, Mich., New Zealands.
Bender, Alfred W., 715 Washington Rd., Grosse Pointe, Mich.
Bleech, C. W., North Adams, Mich., Champagne De Argents, Cavies.
Bittner, Ed. G.. R. R. 1, Holland, Mich.
Briggs, Leon W., 2650 Jefferson Ave., Police Dept., Detroit, Mich.
Britz, Martin L., 62 Albion St., Houghton, Mich., English Smooth Cavies.
Brown, J. W., 406 W. Maple St., Lansing, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Calpbell, Walter D., Homer, Mich., Chinchillas.
Canfield, Omer J., R. R. No. 2, Warren, Mich.
Carson, Philip, Chesaning, Mich.
Cejka, E. M., 125 Birch St., Iron Mountain, Mich.
Chambers, Theodore L., 1124 Lane Blvd., Kalamazoo, Mich., Flemish Giants and New Zealand Red Bucks.
Chubb, Ralph L., 1617 Madison St., Saginaw, Mich.
Clark, A. B., 1658 Madison Ave., S. E., Grand Rapids, Mich.. New Zealands.
Cole, Oren S., 2361 Westridge Court, Ferndale, Mich., Heavy Weight Flemish, Chinchillas, New Zealands.
Colvin, C. R., R. F. D. No. 5, Lansing, Mich., American Blues, Chinchillas, Flemish. Colyer, W., 1324 Hayes Park Ave., Kalamazoo, Mich.
Copper, J. W., Temperance, Mich.
Corcoran, Ed. B., 426 S. 15th St., Escanaba, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Cross, G. B., Whitmore Lake, Mich.
Dackwood, Wm., 9007 Petoskey Ave., Detroit. Mich.
Dennie, H. E., 619 Lafayette St., Lowell, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Durling, N. V., R. F. D. No. 1, Jasper, Mich.
Dyer, I. C., 17325 Barlow Ave., Detroit, Mich.
Emerich, G. A., Bronson, Mich.
Fairview Fur Farms, Inc.. 304 Rogers Bldg., Jackson, Mich.
Fifield, John B., 19391 Charleston Ave., Detroit, Mich., H. W. Flemish Giants.
Finger, Walter J., R. No. 3, Saginaw, Mich.
Fischer, Fred W., 234 S. Reid Ave., Detroit, Mich., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds, A. O. C. Dutch, Flemish Nat.
Fischer, H. F., 1514 Frazho Rd. W., Halfway, Mich.. Heavyweight Flemish.
Foley, R. J., Rt. 4, Grand Rapids, Mich., Flemish Giants and Champ. De Argents. Franklin, Frank J., R. R. 1, Box 16, Irons, Mich.
Fournia, H. G., River Rasin Fur Farms, Monroe St., Dundee, Mich., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds, and White Beverens.
Frank, C., Rt. No. 3, Box 45A, Dowagiac. Mich., Flemish Giants.
Gausino, Geo., Dixie Highway, Newport, Mich., Flemish Giants, Black and Gray. Gauweiler, S. B., R. F. D. No. 3, Newaygo, Mich.
Greeman, Asax J., R. F. D. No. 1, Williamstown, Mich., Chinchillas.
Gorzinski, Leo, Rt. 1, Box 46, Powers, Mich.
Hagedorn, Fred A., Fenton, Mich., Chinchillas. Silver and Blue.
Hammond, H. J., 2328 Casper Ave., Detroit, Mich.
Harrington, E. F., 17860 Russell St., Detroit. Mich., Chinchillas, White New Zealands. Henning, Chas., R. No. 5, Lansing, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Henry, G. M., c/o Hotel Palmetto, Hancock and John R St., Detroit, Mich.
Hildebrand, Fred A., 37 N. Monroe St., Coldwater, Mich.
Howe, L. H., 2060 Corunner Ave., Owosso, Mich.
Keller, John, Harvard, Mich.. Chinchillas.
Kerner, Harry G., 140 Davison Ave., Highland Park, Mich.
Kleinhenn, Earl P., 424 Allen St., Landing, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Knapp, Orrin, R. R. No. 1, Sheridan, Mich.
Koester, Arthur F., Wyandotte, Mich.
Landgren, J. F., R. R. 4, Box 157, Birmingham, Mich.
Lauer, Harry, Jr., 121 N. Carolina St., Saginaw, Mich.
LeLand, Roy F., 1036 College Ave., Adrian, Mich.
Links, J., 306 Wall St., Kalamazoo, Mich., Flemish and Belgians.
Longcor, E. J., R. F. D. No. 4, Fenton, Mich.
Mackinder & Marlin, R. R. 3, Box 4A, Alma, Mich.
Mar, S., 4450 Dubois, Detroit, Mich., New Zealand Reds, American Blues, Chinchillas. Mark's, Lester A., On The St. Clair River, Box 343, Algonac, Mich.
Marsicek, Jerry, Wilson, Mich., Chinchillas.
Mattson, Walfred I., Metropolitan, Mich.
Mawby, Fred J., R. F. D. No. 1, Bay Shore, Mich., Chinchillas.
Mieras, D. L., 119 Grove St., N. E., Grand Rapids, Mich., Flemish.
Meiers, J. L., Howard City, Mich., Flemish.
Meitzner, C. A., 51 Welts St., Mt. Clemens, Mich.
Mettetal, Henry, 651 Otis Ave., Detroit Hazel Park, Mich.
Milan Fur Farm, Milan, Mich., Flemish Giants, Chinchillas, Havanas, New Zealand Reds. Miotka, Frank, R. R. 5, Box 14, Milford, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Modderman, H. A., Marne, Mich., Dutch Himalayans, Chinchillas, Flemish Giants.
Mohler, C. M., Ypsilanti, Mich.
Mohler, L. E., Wayne, Mich., Chinchillas.
Montague, Arms Co., 221 Gibbs St., Caro, Mich., Chinchillas.
Moore, S. C., M. D., Cadillac, Mich.
Musa, H. F., 69 Manchester Ave., Box 2136, Halfway, Mich., New Zealands.
Nantell, W. B., Box 41, Newberry, Mich., Chinchillas.
Nash, R. G., 161 Park St., Adrian, Mich.
Neal, Thos. A., Charing Cross Road, East, Birmingham, Mich., Chinchillas, Flemish Giants. Needham, M. A., 1424 N. Clark St., Kalamazoo, Mich.
Norton, Leonard, R. F. D. No. 3, Three Rivers, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Orme, R. P., Van Dyke, Mich., Chinchillas.
Paine, Geo., Charlotte, Mich.
Parsells, E., 1228 Loeser Ave., Jackson, Mich.
Peter, H. S., R. R. 1, Burt, Mich.
Philippart, Pearl, R. 4, Monroe, Mich.
Pickerin, Lawrence A., 20004 Willard Ave., Detroit, Mich., New Zealand Reds.
Pilcher, Stanton, 703 2nd St., Jackson, Mich., Chinchillas.
Proctor, Geo. C., 127 N. Thompson St., Jackson, Mich.
Pugh, Renaldo, P. O. Box 96, Armada, Mich.
Raycroft Fur Farm, 421 Penobscot Bldg., Detroit, Mich.
Reckwald. Herman C., 6330 South St., Detroit, Mich., A. O. C. Dutch, Rufus Reds, Chinchillas.
Richardson, Fred E., 5530 Vancouver Ave., Detroit, Mich., Chinchillas.
Riemerson, Bert C., R. R. 10, Holland, Mich.
Satison, H., 105 W. 7th, Clare, Mich., American Blues and Chinchillas.
Scenic Ridge Chinchilla Farm (A. E. Herren), Thompsonville, Mich., Chinchillas. Schmuck, G., R. R. No. 2, Box 51, St. Joseph, Mich.
Shad, C. J., Brooks Lake, Newaygo, Mich.
Shank, J. E., 1008 S. Main St., Adrian, Mich.
Slates, V. J., 1123 Marquette St., Alma, Mich., Grey Flemish Giants.
Slusser, Wm., Wildwood Farm, Pinconning. Mich.
Smielewski, Thomas, R. No. 2, Bay City, Mich., Chinchillas.
Smith, Frank I., 516 E. Hewitt Ave., Marquette, Mich.
Snook, Rowland, Olivet, Mich.
Solomon, P. B., Galesburg, Mich.
Sortor, Robert G., Manchester, Mich.
Spires. C. G., 10449 Sterritt St., Detroit, Mich.
Stockdale, Harry, 301 E. Cross St., Ypsilanti, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Strohpagel, L. C., Gen. Del., Jack, Mich., Flemish Giants, Checkered Giants, and Cavies. Thoman Bros.. 107 N. Front St., Manistique, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Thompson, Lyle, R. R. 2, Greenville, Mich., Chinchillas.
Tyler, E. E., Box 96, Novi, Mich.
Vogt, Jos., New Boston, Mich., Chinchillas, Flemish Black and Tans, Checkers.
Wagner, Theo., 1408 Dodge River Drive, Lansing. Mich., New Zealand Whites.
Warren, Theo. R., 321 Fisher Ave., Pontiac, Mich., Chinchillas.
Waterstradt, F. H., 212 Tecumish, Dundee, Mich., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds. Weaver, Roy, R. F. D. No. 4, Muskegon, Mich., Rufus Reds, Belgians, and Cavies. Webster, J. D., R. No. 50, Lansing. Mich.
Welcher, Karl W., 315 Jewell St., Howell, Mich.
Wideman, Harold B., 604 N. Twelfth St., Niles, Mich.
Williams, F. M., North Adams, Mich., Chinchillas, French Silvers.
Wilson. James, R. F. D. No. 5. Box 182, Royal Oak, Mich., Flemish.
Wiss, John H., New Buffalo, Mich., Chinchillas.
Wolcott, Fern J., 364 Geneva Ave., Highland Park, Mich., New Zealands.
Wolf, Geo., Comstock, Mich.
Young, Clifford B., R. F. D. No. 4, Alma, Mich., Chinchillas.
Zorn, Otto J., R. R. 1, Box 135, Warren, Mich., New Zealands.
Associated Rabbit & Fur Producers, 3328 48th Ave., So., Minneapolis, Minn., Chinchillas and Havanas.
Avery, E. E., 4533 York Ave., So., Minneapolis, Minn., Chinchillas.
Bakko, Clarence K., P. O. Box 363, Kenyon, Minn., Chinchillas.
Barfknecht, Alfred, 927 4th Ave., N., Faribault, Minn., Chinchillas.
Blake, L., Rest Island Silver Fox Farms, White Bear Lake, Minn.
Blakeslee, C. R., Kenyon, Minn., Chinchillas.
Becker, A. K., Rogers, Minn., Chinchillas.
Bourbeau, Joseph, 2727 Johnson St., N. E., Minneapolis, Minn., New Zealands.
Bourbeau, Wm., 653 Van Buren St., N. E., Minneapolis, Minn., New Zealand Reds. Bourbeau, W. B., 652 N. E. Polk St., Minneapolis, Minn., Chinchillas.
Burch, Doc., Hills, Minn., Chinchillas, Giants, American Blues.
Calkins, F. O., Wadena, Minn., Chinchillas, American Blues,
Calouri, Wm. J., R. No. 8, Box 154, Minneapolis, Minn.
Carswell, R. E., 2025 E. Franklin Ave., Minneapolis, Minn., Rabbits.
Chermoller, G. A., Pipestone, Minn.
Conn, Maud, 102 Ermina St., Albert Lea, Minn., Chinchillas.
Couse, Eugene, R. R. 1, Box 93, Moose Lake, Minn., American Blues, Chinchillas. Ctibor, W. J., Box 196, Winona, Minn., Flemish Giants, Chinchillas.
Chinchilla Farm, 232 Endicott Bldg., St. Paul, Minn., Chinchillas.
Danforth & Taylor, Box 93, Inver Grove, Minn.
Dixson, Mrs. Geo. A., Glen Lake, Minn.
Ellis, L. E., Moose Lake, Minn., Chinchillas.
Fanando, John, 889 St. Anthony St., St. Paul, Minn., Chinchillas and White Flemish. Fay, Chas. M., Box 576, Proctor, Minn.
Fisher, Chas. W., 2610 Utica Ave., St. Louis Park, Minn., Chinchillas, Dark Northern Rac.
Gopher State Caviary, 862 Atlantic St.. St. Paul, Minn., High Grade Stock.
Green, A. C. J., Buffalo, Minn., Chinchillas.
Gudim, A. J., St. Louis Park, Minn., Chinchillas.
Habeka Rabbitry & Fur Farm, 3336 Grand Ave., Minneapolis, Minn., Chinchillas.
Hansen, Carl D. V. M., Faribault, Minn.
Hansen, H. N., R. F. D. No. 1, Minneapolis, Minn.
Hradecky, L., Box 557, Albert Lea, Minn., Chinchillas.
Johnson, M. L., 4041 Arcadia Ave., Linden Hill, Minneapolis, Minn.
Johnson, Miss Susan, Box 476, Park Rapids, Minn.
Jondahl, N. E., Cass Lake, Minn.
Jocks, Chas. B., 30 Dunwoody, Chisholm, Minn.
Jungnickel, Chas., Elk River, Minn.. Chinchillas.
Kearns, Frank C., Austin, Minn., Small Stock Specialty, Rabbits, Cavies, Mice, Black Skunks.
Kelner, Gene R., 2529 Pleasant Ave., Minneapolis, Minn., Chinchillas.
Kesteren, Edward, 3757 2nd Ave., South, Minneapolis, Minn.
Kocurek, J. F., 1954 University Ave. at Prior, St. Paul, Minn., Chinchillas.
Kriebs, August N., Hackensack, Minn.
Land O’ Lakes Chinchilla Rabbitry, R. E. Reineke, 306 W. Lyon St., Marshall, Minn., Chinchillas.
La Flash, Denver, Kettle River, Minn., Chinchillas.
Lansing, Robert, Moose Lake, Minn., New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas.
Larrabee, Dr. S. G., 219 Hamm Bldg., St. Paul, Minn.
Lindgren, Alfred, Box 8, Blackduck, Minn., Belgian Hares.
Lokensgard, W. O., Kenyon, Minn., Chinchillas.
Lowe, F. R., Box 162, Meadowlands, Minn., Chinchillas.
Lundeen, Arvid, Shelly, Minn.
Mahowald, Leo, 1023 14th Ave., S. E., Minneapolis, Minn.
Mattson, Walker M., Windom Ave. and 6th St., Montevideo, Minn., Chinchillas.
McNeal, Glen, Bruno, Minn., Belgian Hares.
Myers, Orley V., Winona, Minn.
Miller, Creighton, 1120 West Sixth St., Winona, Minn., Flemish Giants.
Minnesota Chinchilla Breeders Association, 698 Sexton Bldg., J. B. Mattoon, Minneapolis, Minn., Chinchillas.
Moreau, Angeline R., Rt. No. 2, Osseo. Minn., Chinchillas.
Nelson, Mrs. Clara, Box 271, Blackduck, Minn.
Nelson, Richard A., R. D. No. 1, Box 16A, Deerwood, Minn., Flemish and New Zealands. Noren, Wm. T., 1465 W. 31st, Minneapolis, Minn., Chinchillas.
Northrup, Dr. H. A., Bemidji, Minn.
Olson, Clarence, Box 118, Hanley Falls, Minn.
Osterlund, Chas. G., Deerwood, Minn., Chinchillas.
Oxtra, A. T., Ponsford, Minn.
Page, G. A., R. No. 1, Station F, Minneapolis, Minn., New Zealand Reds.
Perkins, Willard L., 1124 S. Jefferson St., Wadena, Minn., New Zealands.
Ranger Fur Farm, R. R. No. 2, Excelsior, Minn., Chinchillas.
Scherer, Carl, Mendota, Minn., Chinchillas.
Schultz, Lloyd, 1111 N. Broadway, Rochester, Minn., Chinchillas.
Schumaker, Fred A., 121 3rd St., N. W., Wadena, Minn., Chinchillas.
Schumacher, Peter N., 329 Carl St., St. Paul, Minn., Havanas.
Shippee, Geo. H., Marshall, Minn.
Skluzacek, Mat. W., Lonsdale, Minn.
Skytte, Albert, Box 431, Virginia, Minn., Chinchillas.
Smith, Mrs. John F., Liberty Pk., Box 143, Marshall, Minn., Chinchillas.
Sowa & Wiberg, 4833 14th Ave. S., Minneapolis, Minn.
Stalcup, H. B., R. No. 1, Station F, Minneapolis, Minn., New Zealand Reds.
Staples, Leroy, Rosy, Minn.
Stevenson, John, 3539 26th Ave. S., Minneapolis, Minn.
Taylor, Fred W., 210 1/2 Howard St., Hibbing, Minn., Chinchillas.
Thayer, Mrs. Geo. C., R. R. 3. Maple Plain, Minn., Chinchillas, White Beverens. Thompson, R. A., c/o H. J. Luscher, Wayzetta, Minn., Havanas, Chinchillas.
Thompson, R. G., 4109 Cooke St., Duluth, Minn., Chinchillas.
Thorfinnson, Olga I., Hallock, Minn., Flemish Giants.
Thorne, F. W„ 972 Ashland Ave., St. Paul, Minn., Chinchillas and Guinea Pigs. Thousand Lakes Fur Farms, Corp., Minneapolis. Minn.
Wasilesky, A., 435 Rice St., St. Paul, Minn., Chinchillas, Belgians, Flemish Giants. Wasche, J. A., P. O. Box 10, Bluffton, Minn., New Zealands, Chinchillas, Himalayans, and Cavies.
Weyhe, Dr. H. T., 2100 Du Pont Ave., No., Minneapolis, Minn.
Wheeler, Geo. I., Moose Lake, Minn., Chinchillas.
White, Fred H., 34 East Henneper Ave., Minneapolis, Minn., Chinchillas.
Wohlauf, E., 1499 E. Minnehaha St., St. Paul, Minn., Chinchillas.
Zeglin, Ralph W„ Coney Isle, P. O. Waconia, Minn.
Ziemer, Fred C., Waconia, Minn., Chinchillas.
Donald, Earl Pierce, Philadelphia, Miss.
Mahaffey, C. B., Port Gibson, Miss.
Augspurger, G. L., Neosho, Mo., New Zealands.
Barrow, C. R., 417 N. Colorado St., Kansas City, Mo., Chinchillas, New Zealands, Cavies. Bartles, Art. F., 4262 Meramec Ave., St. Louis, Mo., Flemish.
Beers, Wm. A. F., 907 Walton Ave., St. Louis, Mo., Reg. Fancy and Commercial Flemish and Utility.
Bernhardt, R. J., Box 606, Route 29, St. Louis, Mo., Flemish and Havanas.
Bert, A. L., Edina, Mo., Chinchillas.
Boaz, Wm. E., 5836 N. Market St., St. Louis, Mo., Flemish.
Brubaker, R. R., R. R. 1, Box 185, Fairmount, Mo.
Bunt, Jas., 1403 W. Kensington Ave., Holmes Park, Mo., Chinchillas.
Buss, Ruth, 1636 McLaren Ave., St. Louis, Mo.
Burgess, W. G., Rt. 7, Box 719, Springfield, Mo., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds. Cage, A. J., 1827 Washington St„ Springfield, Mo., New Zealands.
Chamberlain, Chas., 727 E. Elm St., Springfield, Mo., Chinchillas.
Dewille, Geo. F., 4453 A Nebraska Ave., St. Louis. Mo.. Flemish.
Geitz, Al, 4706 Easton Ave., St. Louis, Mo., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Goforth, A., Dixon, Mo., New Zealand Reds.
Hahn, C. A., Greenfield, Mo.
Harper, Chas., 6306 Suburban Ave., St. Louis, Mo., Flemish and New Zealand Reds. Haynes, F. A., 620 McKinley Ave., Kirkwood, Mo., Flemish Giants.
Holmes, J. C., Holmes Park, Mo.
Jeffrey, V. R., Box 264, Galena, Mo., Flemish Giants.
Jewett, F. F., Box 81, Smithville, Mo., Chinchillas.
Jones, Dr. H. V., 529 E. Santa Fe St., Marceline, Mo., Chinchillas.
Jones, Roy B., 4904 E. 24th St., Kansas City, Mo.
Kerr, Dr. Ernest E., 1403 Sterling Ave., Independence, Mo.
Larkin, C. F., Wellington, Mo., Flemish Giants.
Lodge, J. R., 623 S. Dallison St., Springfield, Mo., Chinchillas.
May, Lawrence, 2622 Cleveland, Kansas City, Mo., Chinchillas.
McClinton, R., 542 W. Poplar St., Springfield, Mo., Chinchillas.
Miller Rabbitry, 1469 E. 66th St., Terrace, Kansas City, Mo.
Missouri Fur Animal Enterprises, W. E. Benson, Secretary and Superintendent, R. R.
No. 8, Anglum, Mo., Chinchillas, Cavies, and White Mice.
Morris, Harold D., 232 E. 30th St., Kansas City, Mo.
Morris, Ella, Holmes Park, Mo.
Norwood, Mrs. W. R., 916 W. Third, Cameron, Mo., Chinchillas.
Paraday, Chas. F., 3036 Sheridan Ave., St. Louis, Mo., Flemish Giants.
Pearson, Edgar, Richland, Mo.
Porter, J. N., R.. D. No. 2, Platte City, Mo., New Zealand Reds.
Quigley, Carl, 2614 Indiana, Kansas City, Mo., New Zealands, Guinea Pigs, and Chinchillas.
Rannenberg, Theo, R. R. 12, Box 76, Kirkwood, Mo.
Reeder, V. C., Box 5149 Gateway St.. Kansas City, Mo., New Zealands.
Reichers, W. O., 2014 N. Market St., St. Louis, Mo., Flemish and Himalayans.
Ross Rabbitry, Dr. H. M. Ross Sc Sons, Prop., Versailles, Mo.
Schaff, Ed., Box 90, Independence, Mo., New Zealand Reds and Blue Dutch.
Spencer Produce Co., 14 W. 4th St., Kansas City, Mo., Flemish Giants, New Zealands Belgian Blacks.
Stahl, Mrs. Edw. H., Holmes Park, Mo., Persian Cats.
Stahl, Edw. H., Holmes Park, Mo., all breeds of rabbits.
Stokes, F. L., Rt. No. 6, Independence, Mo.
Triangle Rabbitry, R. R. 1, Fairmount, Mo.
Trimble, H. G., 221 E. 33rd St., Kansas City, Mo.
Vennari, Joseph, 4840 Cote Brilliante Ave., St. Louis, Mo.
Wetzel, L. K., 1120 Walnut St., 5th Floor, Kansas City, Mo.
Winsell, H. E., 5601 Swopark Way, Kansas City, Mo., All Kinds.
Wyman, L. O., 309 Lee Ave., Excelsior Springs, Mo.
Best, J. P., 619 S. Washington St., Dillon, Mont.
Boyer, Noel H., Box 1002, Deer Lodge, Mont., Chinchillas.
Braithwaite, 342 4th St., East, Roundup, Mont., Chinchillas.
Bruce, R. C., Box No. 16, Lewiston, Mont., Chinchillas.
Cameron, G. R., Whitetail, Mont.
Carey, Cliff, 123 1st St., East, Roundup, Mont., Chinchillas.
Christefferson, N., Paxton, Mont., Chinchillas.
Coltrin, O. A., 716 N. Lake Ave., Miles City, Mont., Chinchillas.
Crothers, Max H., 1319 3rd St., West. Roundup, Mont.
Cusick, F. A., R. R. No. 1, Kalispell, Mont.
Demmons, Herbert L., Canyon Ferry Rt., Helena, Mont.
Dowling, John W., Hamilton, Mont.
Eames, Mrs. Minnie, Canyon Ferry Rt., Helena, Mont., Chinchillas.
Evans, Robt. E., Ft. Benton, Mont., Chinchillas.
Garrison, J. H., Box 1338, Missoula, Mont.
Greer, Setella M., Kalispell, Mont., Chinchillas.
Henry, E. C., Box 729, Missoula, Mont.
Herrin, Merton, c/o Mrs. J. A. Kroll, Leslie and Lynden St., Helena, Mont., Chinchillas. Larsen, Nels S., 517 Erie St., Lewistown, Mont.
Lewis, Chauncey, Essex, Mont.
Martin, Geo., Essex, Mont.
McDonall, Frank, Rt. 4, Kalispell, Mont.
O’Neal, L., Hauser Lake, R. A. Helena, Mont., Chinchillas.
Peck, Chas. C., R. R. 2, Creston, Mont., Flemish, New Zealands.
Sherwood, R. A., 216 S. 25th St., Billings, Mont., Chinchillas.
Smith, Fred L., Lima, Mont.
Smith, Laurence, Rt. 1, Kalispell, Mont., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds.
Smith, Philip, Kalispell, Mont., Chinchillas.
Surface, Basil R., 921 5th Ave., S., Great Falls, Mont.
Tommerup, Henry, R. 1, Box 52, Westby, Mont., New Zealand Reds.
Tuthill, R. C., Winston, Mont., Chinchillas.
Tuttle, Dr. F. E., P. O. Box 554, Bozman, Mont., Flemish Giants and English Cavies. VanHee, Robert J., Box 622, Plentywood, Mont., Chinchillas.
Wilden, J. E., Tyler, Mont., Chinchillas.
Williams, Frank M., Box 3, Wyola, Mont., Chinchillas.
Wilmer, C. J., 1002 Madison Ave., Helena, Mont., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds. Wogoman, Art, Essex, Mont.
Beccard, Carl, Eagle, Nebr.
Behrens, Melvin E., R. No. 2, Shelby, Nebr., Rufus Reds.
Benjamin, Clarence L., Arapahoe, Nebr.
Beste, Dr. A. L., Rt. 5, Bellevue Rd., Omaha, Nebr.
Bryant, A. H., & Son, Overton, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Bugenhagen, Eliza, Magnet, Nebr., New Zealand Reds.
Carlson, A. C., Box 283, Elgin, Nebr.
Carlson, C. W., 1102 South 1st, Norfolk, Nebr.
Cleveland, Henry, 1438 N. 15th St., Lincoln, Nebr., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds. Cottle, C. G., Edgar, Nebr., Belgian Hares.
Dean, W. H., 502 Norfolk Ave., Norfolk, Nebr.
Douglas, R. V., Maywood, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Eberhart, E. E., High Line Rabbitry, Moorefield, Nebr., Flemish Giants.
Eberhart, E. E., High Line Rabbitry, Moorefield, Nebr.
Fieselman, P. G., and B. J. Garner, Hickman, Nebr., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds. Funk, Perry, 608 W. 12th, North Platte, Nebr.
Henning, Carl O., 408 Grove Ave., Norfolk, Nebr.
Hopkins, Walter J., 3225 Doane, Lincoln, Nebr., Chinchillas, Flemish Gray and Steel. Jones, Dr. F. F., Box 205, Leigh, Nebr.
Jones, H. R., Elm Creek, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Jones, W. D., 703 W. 11th St., No. Platte, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Koehler, W. E., 239 S. Plum St., Grand Island, Nebr.
Kohler & Swogger, 401 Madison St., Norfolk, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Krajicek, Dr. B. E., Scribner, Nebr.
Larson, Arthur, 2121 S. 35th, Lincoln, Nebr., Chinchillas, Flemish Giants, and Cavies. Lenox Rabbitry, 4214 Lenox Ave., R. D. No. 4, Lincoln, Nebr.
Limbeck, Art E., 4025 Sumner St., Lincoln, Nebr.
Lobel Bros., Creighton, Nebr.
Morris, Mrs. Albert, Box 185, Cozad, Nebr.
Morris, Walter L., 1012 W. 7th St., Grand Island, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Nelson, N. H., Omaha, Nebr.
Olson, Cy., 2325 Q St., Havelock, Nebr.
Pinneo, C. R., 416 Hospe Bldg., Omaha, Nebr.
Poland, Earl, Du Bois, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Pool, Ray, R. F. D. No. 2 No. 14, Comstock, Nebr.
Powell, F. O., Wymore, Nebr.
Quick, S. R., Morrill, Nebr.
Romberg, Henry A., Scribner, Nebr., Flemish Giants.
Saeger, Dr. W. H., Norfolk, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Schilling, Herman L., Box 305, Norfolk, Nebr.
Stotts, Frank E„ 2742 N. 49th St., Omaha, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Sunflower Rabbitry of Nebraska, 1812 Ryans St., Lincoln, Nebr.
Swalley, H. B., Nebraska City, Nebr., White and Grey Flemish.
Swallow, J. E., 935 N. 25th St., Lincoln, Nebr., New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Travis, G. L., 535 E. 11th St., College View, Nebr.
Vargason, Erwin D., Box 114, Bassett, Nebr.
Wood, Everett M., 1029 W. 13th St., Crete, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Woods, Jas. R., 824 S. 5th Ave., Omaha, Nebr., Chinchillas.
Zeman, Frank A, Box 337, Alliance, Nebr., Chinchillas, Flemish, New Zealand Reds.
Hooten, J. F., Box 1032, Reno, Nev., American Blues.
Papenfuss, C. H., No. 19 1st St., McGill, Nev., Chinchillas.
Bradbury, Arthur L., 122 Elm St., Claremont, N. H., New Zealand Reds.
Came, Melvin E., 677 Central Ave., Dover, N. H., Chinchillas and Giants.
Demers, Adelard, Depot St., No. 7, Somersworth, N. H.
Fairbanks, Edw. H., 130 Elm St., Keene, N. H.
Gilman, Geo. W. H., R. F. D. No. 1, Laconia, N. H., Flemish
Gove, John F., R. D. No. 1, Brentwood, N. H., Flemish Giants, Chinchillas.
Hebert, Ernest, W. Manchester, N. H.
Kimball, N. T„ R. F. D. No. 1, Union, N. H.
Sargent, Adeline, R. 2, Reeds Ferry, N. H.
Senter, Irvin R., Maple Ave., Plaistow, N. H., Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds. Smith, Mrs. Edna B., E. Barrington, N. H., Flemish Giant Rabbits.
Welch, Miss Jeanette, R. F. D. No. 1, via Nashua, Thornton's Ferry, N. H., Flemish Giants.
Aardema, Sam, 335 E. 18th St., Patterson, N. J.
Adams, John T., 305 Highwood Ave., Glen Rock, N. J., Flemish.
Anderson, Thos. C., 31 Ferndale Rd., N. Caldwell, N. J., Flemish Giants.
Ainscough, James, 919 E. 24th St., Patterson, N. J., Flemish and Checker Giants.
Baebi, Joe E., Jr., 1497 Springfield Ave., Hilton, N. J.
Baker, S. Houston, Jr., Denman Rd., Canford, N. J., Havanas, Golden and Silver Agouti, Cream and Jet Black Cavies.
Berner, J. W., Rt. 3, Millville, N. J.
Bohren, John, Belmont Ave., No. Haledon, N. J.
Caverly, Gladys, Roadsending Ave., R, R. 2, Plainfield, N. J.
Chambers, Milton R., Ayerstown Rd., Mt. Holly, N. J.
Church, Hugh, 462 Division St., Perth Amboy, N. J., American Blues.
Clendenon, B. H., R. D. No. 3, Box 158, Vineland, N. J.
Colardeau, Alfred B., 122 Wildwood Ave., Upper Montclair, N. J., Flemish Giants. Daddea, Benedict, 500 2nd St., Hoboken, N. J., New Zealand Reds.
Dietrich, Fred R., 469 Avon Ave., Newark, N. J., Rabbits, White Mice, White Rats. Eggers, William, Scotch Plains, N. J.
Galinski, Roman, Hampton, N. J.
Harrison, Albert, 500 Passaic Ave., Arlington, N. J., Flemish and Checkers.
Hendershot, Robert S., 233 Belvidere Ave., Washington, N. J., Flemish Checkered Giants and Cavies.
Hermann, Carl A., R. R. 3, Plainfield, N. J., Chinchillas.
Hood, Jas. Milton, Hotel Pennhurst, Atlantic City, N. J.
Hopman, Richard, Jr., 410 Georgetown Rd., Carney's Pt., N. J., White Mice, Rabbits,
and Guinea Pigs.
Janin, Noil, Butler Ave., Rt. 2, Millville, N. J., Flemish Giants.
Jeschke, Max, 148 Woodland Ave., Pleasantville, N. J., Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds. Kocinski, Eugene, 120 Franklin Ave., Nutley, N. J., Checkers, Havanas, Flemish.
Kosche, Fred H., 757 Midland Ave., Garfield, N. J., Havanas, Checkered Giants, English Lops.
Lanterman, Gilbert, P. O. Box 395, Morristown, N. J., Flemish White.
Lovett, Frank, R. D. No. 1, Allendale, N. J., Flemish and New Zealands.
Mac Briar, W. C., Roseland Ave., Essex Falls, N. J., Checkers, Dutch and Silver Giants. Moore, A. Gerry, Jr., Wheaton Ave., Millville, N. J.
Moore, Isaac D., Hartford, N. J.
Murfitt, George, Shrewsbury, N. J.
Naabe, Walter, R. F. D. No. 1, Williamstown, N. J.
Nicholas, Robt. C., Bishop Place, New Brunswick, N. J., Chinchillas.
Oldershaw, W. D., 400 E. Main, Moorestown, N. J., Chinchillas.
Ray, D. B., P. O. Box No. 2, Palisade Pk„ N. J.
Robinson, U. G., 300 Atlantic Ave., Atlantic City, N. J.
Rodman, Robt. W., Allendale, N. J.
Sayles, M. Ruth, 48 Everett St., E. Orange, N. J.
Scharff, J. H., 74 Stager St., Nutley, N. J., Flemish and Checkers.
Schlenker, Geo., 683 Hack Pk. Rd., North Bergen, N. J., Flemish Giants.
Seyfried, W. J., 397 Center St., Phillipsburg, N. J., English Spots.
Shultz, Geo. A., 1417 S. 9th, Camden, N. J.
Strimpler, H., 355 Washington Terrace, Audubon, N. J.
Tappan, Frank R., 625 Beech St., Orange, N. J.
Warner, Ellis R., 107 S. Chester Ave., Pleasantville, N. J., New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas.
Whitestone Silver Fox Farm, 289 Morris Ave., Elizabeth, N. J., Chinchillas.
Windston, Alfred G., 315 N. Merchant St., Audubon, N. J., White Rabbits and Cavies. Wright, G. W., 220 Stockton, Hightstown, N. J.
Adams, John Q., 720 E. Manhattan St., Santa Fe, N. M., New Zealands and Chinchillas. Ball, E. R„ Jr., P. O. Box 767, Roswell, N. M.
Barnhill, Kenneth S., North Alameda Rd., Las Cruces, N. M., Gray Flemish Giants. Blackwell, L. D., La Mesa, N. M., Guinea Pigs for Laboratory Tests.
Gibbins, James D., P. O. Box 191, East Las Vegas, N. M.
Higgins, J. O., R. R. No. 2, Box 203, Albuquerque, N. M., Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds.
Rector, Oscar, P. O. Box 833, Albuquerque, N. M.
Sappington, Geo., Tucumcari, N. M., New Zealands.
Wesco, Wm., Box 382, Albuquerque, N. M.
Williamson, Paul, 123 Vassar, Albuquerque, N. M., Gray Flemish Giants.
Aeschback, L. S., 233 Abbott Rd., Buffalo, N. Y.
Anopol, George, M. D., Highland Ave., Pearl River, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Baggerly, G. C., Avoca, N. Y., Flemish Giants.
Baker, Claude E., Box 198, Jefferson Co., Mannsville, N. Y.
Ballard, H. L., Oswego, N. Y.
Batcheller, H. C., 132 E. State St., Gloversville, N. Y., Flemish, Chinchillas, Havanas, and Blue Beverens.
Belgian-Florida Rabbit Association, Inc., Suite 1506, N. 303 Fifth Ave., New York City, Flemish Giants.
Buhrig, Frederick W., Dirona Farms, Canastota, N. Y., Flemish.
Burdsall, J. C., Box 4, Breesport, N. Y.
Brown, John B., 111 Richardson St., Syracuse, N. Y., Flemish.
Clare, Wm. C., 165 W. Utica St., Oswego, N. Y., Belgian Hares, New Zealands, Steel Gray Flemish, Black Siberians.
Clarry, Russell L., Marietta, N. Y.
Colombo, O., 57 John St., New Rochelle, N. Y.
Cook, H. C., Shadow Lawn, Brewerton Rd., Syracuse, N. Y.
Decker, C. H., Westernville, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Denio, L. O., 191 Cedarwood Terrace, Rochester, N. Y., White New Zealands.
Dibble, Merton L., Ward Rd., No. Tonawanda, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Domy, Albert, 36 Southard, Long Island, Baldwin, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Doscher, Henry, 1727 Townsend Ave., New York City.
Drushler, H. P., Willow St., East Aurora, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Duplaney, Francis P., 310 E. Broadway, Manhattan, New York City, Rabbits, Cavies, and Mice.
Ellsbury, William R., Willsboro, N. Y.
Eltman, Wm., 299 Ainslee St., Brooklyn, N. Y., Flemish Giants and New Zealands. Erbse, Chas., R. R. 1, Long Eddy, N. Y.
Facey, Jr., Albert E., Benedict Ave., P. O. Box 115, Valley Stream, Long Island, N. Y., Flemish, Havanas, English Spots, Dutch, Chinchillas, Checkers, and Himalayans. Fisher, Richard, 204 Hall Ave., Syracuse, N. Y.
Fobare, Elmer, R. F. D. No. 2, Canastota, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Foster, H. A., 122 Park St., Beacon, N. Y.
Gaydou, Adolph, 1847 Barnes Ave., Bronx, New York City, White Flemish Giants. Gilbert, H. C., 187 Shotwell Park, Syracuse, N. Y., Rabbits.
Goll, H. W., 60 West 95th St., New York City.
Greene, Robt. F., Bronxville, or Crow’s Nest, N. Y.
Hamm, G. H., State Police Barracks, Batavia, N. Y.
Hepp, Leroy, 151 Emma St., Syracuse, N. Y.
Herrlein, H., Rockland Co., New York City, Chinchillas, Havanas, Blue Beverens. Howard, Eugene, 2694 Briggs Ave., Fordham, N. Y.
Hughes, Joseph, Sanger Ave., Waterville, N. Y., Flemish Giants.
Hulbert, Wilson, Cooksburg, N. Y., Belgian Hares.
Jayne, Geo. H., Lawn Ave., Elmsford, N. Y., Rufus Read Belgians and American Blues. Kingsly, Milton A., Lock Box 213, Thousand Island Park, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Kniffin, J. F., Box 62, Waterloo, N. Y., Giants in All Colors.
Kruetzfeldt, Wm., Selkirk, N. Y., Flemish Giants.
Layton, Leon D., Hammondsport, N. Y.
Maisenhalder, W., Jr., 69-17 38th Ave., Winfield, L. I., N. Y.
Marsh, Dexter H., Moravia, N. Y., Flemish, New Zealand Reds.
Mason, Elinor E., 132 College Ave., Ithaca, N. Y., Cavies.
McHenry, C. C., 115 Mill St., Little Valley, N. Y.
Moffit, Mrs. A. R., Rowcliffe, South Rd., Poughkeepsie, N. Y.
Moorehead, Wm. A., 558 Ocean Ave., Brooklyn, N. Y., English and Dutch.
Mosher, Lester E., Stanley, N. Y., Flemish.
Mosman, C. B., 136 Main St., Allegany, N. Y., Chinchillas, New Zealands, Black Dutch, Checkered Giants, Flemish Giants.
Munsie, Mrs. Ida, South Byron, N. Y., Flemish Giants.
Murphy, Daniel F., 565 W. 188th St., New York City, New Zealand Whites.
Myers, John C., 118 Arsenal Drive, Syracuse, N. Y., Flemish Giants.
Neely, F. Orville, 35 Warwick Ave., Rochester, N. Y.
Ott, George E., 17 Holland Ave., Batavia, N. Y., Flemish Giants.
Page, Walter C., Canisteo Rd., Hornell, N. Y.
Pettingelt, Harold W., 3 Sockwood St., Binghamton, N. Y.
Preston, Alfred L„ P. O. Box 339, Pearl River, N. Y.
Reuter, Geo., R. R. 3, Box 22, Walkill, N. Y.
Rhodes, R. L., Phelps, N. Y., New Zealand Reds.
Rice, L. C., Central Tsli’p., Long Island, N. Y.
Richards, Mrs. M. L., New Paltz, N. Y.
Rosenfelder, S., & Son, Inc., 253 W. 28th St., New York City.
Sadler, Julius D., 414 2nd North St., Syracuse, N. Y., White and Gray Flemish.
Schimpf, Max R., 716 Roosevelt Ave., Dunkirk, N. Y., Flemish, Nat. Grays, Chinchillas. Schlenker, Geo., Glenham, N. Y.
Scoggan, W. G., Box 127, Peekskill, N. Y.
Smith, Joseph H., Rt. 2, Box 14, Castorland, N. Y.
Smith, Lawrence, R. R. 1, Portageville, N. Y., New Zealands.
Smith, H. P., Box 41, Ramseur, N. C.
Schlenher, Geo., Box 115, Glenham, N. Y.
Schmidt, Sylvester, West Falls, N. Y.
Schutt, John, Jr., R. F. D. No. 2, Erie Co., Akron, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Searles Rabbitry, 125 Stafford Ave., “Eastwood," Syracuse, N. Y., New Zealands.
Snyder, Sadie, R. R. 1, Stone Ridge, N. Y., Chinchillas, Flemish, Angoras.
Spell, Mrs. S. S., R. 9, Forestville, N. Y.
Sullivan, Wm. R., First Natl. Bank Bldg., Baldwinsville, N. Y., Femish Giants.
Sullivan, Wm. R., 26 Genesee St., Baldwinville, N. Y., New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Tefft, F. A., Clayton, N. Y., Silver Black Foxes.
Troupe, C., Lawrence, 701 Alexandria St., Carthage, N. Y.
Vincent, E. R., R. R. 68, Bemus Point, N. Y., Flemish Giants, Checkered Giants.
Warner, Lee H., Odessa, N. Y.
Warner, Paul L., R. D. 5, Warsaw, N. Y.
Watkins, Howard S., 1526 Dudey Ave., Utica, N. Y., Chinchillas, New Zealands.
Wilcox, Ira, R. D. No. 1, Arcade, N. Y.
Woodbury, Arthur F., 138 Rosewood Terrace, LaSalle, N. Y.
Younger, Jno., R. F. D. No. 3, Delanson, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Cole, G. W., P. O. Box 100, Albemarle, N. C.
Graham, Dr. C. A., Ramseur, N. C., New Zealand Reds.
Holland, C. C., Box 114, Clinton, N. C.
Moose, Dennis W., Box 518, Statesville, N. C.
Morrison, W. E., Wilkesboro, N. C., New Zealands.
Smith, H. P., Box 41, Ramseur, N. C.
Wanner, Raymond A., No. 2 Marcelles St., Asheville, N. C., Flemish Giants.
Werber, C. A., R. R. 18, Box 1-A, Mathews, N. C., New Zealands.
Alf, Rev. Albert, Cathay, N. D., Chinchillas, Havanas.
Anderson, Mrs. Marie, Ellendale, N. D., Chinchillas.
Collinson, Mrs. J., Box 63, Tokio, N. D.
Farnand, M. J., Bottineau, N. D., Chinchillas.
Houghton, A. A., Hurdsfield, N. D., Chinchillas and Himalayans.
Lohr, H., Cathay, N. D., Chinchillas.
Rother, Henry and Floyd, Wolford, N. D., Belgian Hares.
Scott, A. D., Heaton, N. D., Chinchillas.
Wick, Carl I., Box 194, Haynes, N. D.
Williams, E. A., Box 81, Cathay, N. D., Chinchillas.
Wirtzfeld, J. H., Martin, N. D., Chinchillas.
Zuberdt, Adam, Fessenden, N. D., Chinchillas.
Ake, L. E., 716 N. Nickel Plate, Louisville, Ohio, Checker Giants.
Akers, Wiley F., R. R. 2, Franklin, Ohio.
Alexander, L. A., 9 Farley St., Dayton, Ohio.
Ashton, V. N., 798 Oak St., Lima, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Bar X Rabbit Ranch, Hartville, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Barber, C. P., 509 Perry St., Sandusky, Ohio.
Basber, C. E., 242 7 9th St., S. W., Canton, Ohio.
Battles, W. J., 575 Crosby St., Akron, Ohio, Black and Blue English Spot Rabbits, Exhibition and Laboratory Cavies.
Beach, .Thos., 3401 E. 132nd St., Cleveland, Ohio, Flemish.
Beeson, W. J., 720 13th N. W., Canton, Ohio, Chinchillas and Flemish.
Belknap, Mary L., 2100 3rd St., S. E., Canton, Ohio.
Bender, Doc., 195 N. Oakley Ave., Columbus, Ohio, Checkered Giants.
Bender, R. B., R. R. 1, Massillon, Ohio, American Blues, Belgians.
Benjamin, C. W., West Walnut St., Jefferson, Ohio, Flemish.
Bentz & Son, A. H., 851 Springdale St., Akron, Ohio, White New Zealands, Blue Beverens, Dutch and English Cavies.
Boerner, Harold A., 1437 Irvington St., Massillon, Ohio, Chinchillas and Flemish. Boldrim, Marius, Box 125, Yorkville, Ohio.
Bischoff, Frederick, 906 W. 21st St., Lorain, Ohio, Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds. Bockrath, L. A., 506 W. Main St., Ottawa, Ohio, Cavies.
Bope, Mina, Baltimore, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Brattain, W. L., 327 S. Jefferson St., Dayton, Ohio.
Brayer, Albert L., 3425 E. 65th St., Cleveland, Ohio, Chinchillas, New Zealand. Reds, and Solid Red English Cavies.
Brenneman, H. C., R. R. 1, Box 49, Ft. Jennings, Ohio.
Brown, C. H., 1362 Getz St., South Akron, Ohio, New Zealand Reds.
Brown, Howard, 49 Crumlin Ave., Girard, Ohio, New Zealands.
Brownsville Rabbit & Pet Farm, P. O. Box 31, Brownsville, Ohio, Rabbits and Pets. Brush, C. N., P. O. Box 164, Piqua, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Bryenton,. Kingsley J., Litchfield, Ohio.
Burnham, H. L., Strongsville, Ohio.
Butts, B. A., and wife, 496 Kroft St., Galion, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Campbell, Thomas, 359 N. Main St., Kenton, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Carpenter, L. E., Sta. C, Toledo, Ohio, American Blues.
Chubb, S. B., 445 Sherman St., Galion, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Clark, Miss C. B., First National Bank, Utica, Ohio.
Clegg, Hugh B., 128 Charles St., Warren, Ohio.
Cleveland, H. L., 561 E. Perry St., Tiffin, Ohio.
Cline, Glen L., 274 W. 8th St., Marysville, Ohio, Havanas and Flemish Giants.
Close’s Rabbit Farm, Tiffin, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Coggins, R. W.. Fredericktown, Ohio, New Zealands.
Conley, Dr. F. W., Main and Washington Sts., Van Wert, Ohio, Flemish Giants, New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Copas, J. S., R. R. 2, Oberlin Rd., Elyria, Ohio, F. and E. Lops, Himalayans, White Flemish.
Counts, Clarence, 601 Frayer Findlay, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Coy, Mrs. Vernon, R. F. D. No. 2, Greenwich, Ohio, Havanas.
D. & B. Rabbit Farm, R. D. No. 1, Seville, Ohio, New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas. Dauber, John, Inst. Feeble Minded, Columbus, Ohio.
Days, E S., 202 Grandview Ave., Wadsworth, Ohio.
Deardorff, Paul A., Hartville, Ohio.
Detrick, W., 444 Olney Ave., Morion, Ohio.
Dietiker, Thos., 629 S. 14th St., Hamilton, Ohio.
Dingman, H. V., 1195 Cleveland Heights Blvd., Cleveland, Ohio.
Doud, John W., Ney, Ohio, Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds.
Douglas, Kay, Ashley, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Drake, H. B., 343 E. Main St., Lancaster, Ohio.
East End Caviary & Kennels, R. D. No. 1, Box 22, Norwalk, Ohio.
Ehlan & Cedoz, 3844 Haverhill Drive, West Toledo, Ohio, Rabbits.
Eikenberry, J. K., 329 W. Summit, Fostoria, Ohio.
Ellis, Mrs. R. I., R. R. 1, Geneva, Ohio, Flemish, New Zealands.
Enslew, E. A., 405 S. Jamerson Ave., Lima, Ohio, Dutch.
Ferris, R. C. and D. M. Worley, 314 N. Detroit St., Xenia, Ohio, New Zealands.
Erf, Herbert A., 2021 Atkins Ave., Lakewood, Cleveland, Ohio.
Fidler, Paul J., Trotwood, Ohio, New Zealands.
Firth, Leo E., Hill Sta., R. F. D. No. 8. Akron, Ohio. Chinchillas.
Flickinger, Donald, 358 S. Second St., Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio, New Zealand Reds.
Foor, Erwin, 603 N. Perry St., Napoleon, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Forcht, Louis M., 743 McAllister Ave., Columbus, Ohio, American Checkers and New Zealand Reds
Foster, Frank, 577 Eastland, Akron, Ohio, Black and Blue Dutch.
Franks, Paul A., R. D. No. 5, Mt. Vernon, Ohio, Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds. Freeman Rabbitry, W 23rd St., Bellaire, Ohio.
Fresidder, W. D., R. F. D. No. 2, Ashley, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Frye, Walter, 209 Grand Ave., Akron, Ohio.
Gaines, Geo. W., Mayfield Ap., Akron, Ohio, Belgian Hares, Checkered Giants.
Garland, W. B., R. R. No. 1, No. Canton, Ohio, Checkered Giants.
Gates, David A., 518 Summer St., Akron, Ohio, Blue and Black Dutch, New Zealand Reds, Flemish.
Geiger, Peter D., R. R. 4, Bluffton, Ohio.
Gilbert, W. F.. R. R. No. 1, Maumee, Ohio, New Zealand Reds, Flemish Giants, Rufus Reds, Red Cavies.
Gild Edge Rabbitry, P. O. Box 717, East Liverpool, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Goodacre, Chas. H., P. O. Box 323, Greenwich, Ohio.
Gordon, W. H., P. O. Box 323, Marion, Ohio.
Grant, Willis H., 316 Tuscarawas St., Canton, Ohio.
Green, Chas. H., 145 E. Front St., New Philadelphia, Ohio.
Green, Roy A., R. D. N. 6, Warren. Ohio.
Greuter, E. B., R. No. 9, Silver Star Rabbitry, Defiance, Ohio.
Hadley. R. G. & Bro., Pioneer, Ohio. Flemish Giants.
Halloway, F. L„ 513 School St., Martins Ferry, Ohio.
Hall, Joe L., 1480 S. Arch St., Alliance, Ohio.
Hanna, Eddie, R. F. D. No. 1, Rudolph. Ohio. Flemish Giants, Rabbits and Guinea Pigs, Harding. C. C., R. R. No. 1, Sylvania. Ohio, Chinchillas and Black and Blue Dutch. Harmon, Delmer, Box 24, Napoleon, Ohio, Gray and Steel Flemish.
Hardy, L. D., Wellington, Ohio.
Hazelton, J. C., R. D. No. 2, Elyria, Ohio.
Heibner, G. L., 221 2nd St., S., Canton, Ohio. Silver Black Fox.
Heinemann, F. H., c/o Weil Shoe Co., Canton, Ohio.
Herrmann, Noel A., R. F. D. No. 2,. Cheshire. Ohio. Belgian Hares.
Herron, Homer L., R. R. 2, Carrollton, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Hertel, John, Paulding, Ohio.
Hetz, Harry A., 821 Woodview Rd., Cleveland Heights, Ohio, New Zealand Reds. Hoffman & Parker, Antwerp, Ohio.
Houser, Dr. Robert, 1226 Manor Park, Lakewood, Ohio.
Hommel, W., 1415 Clinton St., Sandusky. Ohio, Champagne De Argents, Chinchillas, Black Siberians, Havanas, California Sables, New Zealand Reds.
Houseworth, Winona, Wadsworth, Ohio, Rabbits.
Hookway, Geo. H., 4159 E. 108th St., Cleveland, Ohio, Silver Grays, New Zealand Reds, American Blues.
Huffman, Wm. L., Box 153, Sawyerwood, Ohio.
Hutchison, Fred. 1148 Cedar Ave., College Hill, Cincinnati, Ohio, Flemish and Chinchillas. Ingle, H. L., 250 College St., Covington, Ohio, Rabbits and Flemish Giants.
Irey, A. L., Box 585, Lima, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
James, Carl S., 4176 W. 50th St., Cleveland, Ohio.
Jones, Dan, 306 S. Main St., Delaware, Ohio.
Jones, R. A., 1330 W. 11th St., Lorain, Ohio, Flemish and Cavies.
Jones, Sara C., 136 W. Summit, Galion, Ohio, New Zealand Reds.
Julien. Wm. A., 2119 Feldman, Norwood, Ohio, New Zealands and Flemish.
Kahl, Fred, R. R. 1. Dola, Ohio.
Kelbby, E. F., 169 W. Locust St., Neark, Ohio, Cavies.
King, C. F., 638 Cherry St., Galion, Ohio, New Zealand Reds and Flemish.
Klien, John, R. R. No. 3, Box 117, Barberton, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Knapp, Mrs. W. A., 240 E. College Ave., Westerville, Ohio.
Knieriemen, A. L.f R. F. D. No. 2, Bloomville, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Knoff, W. L., Fayette, Ohio, New Zealand Reds.
Lamb, Chas. A., Church St., Thornville, Ohio, Felmish, New Zealand.
Latter, Clifford, R. F. D. No. 8, Ashland, Ohio.
Laurel Rabbitry, 4439 Ashland Ave.. Norwood. Cincinnati, Ohio, Chinchillas. Lautzenheiser, Levi, 1307 Belden Ave., N. E., Canton, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Laymond. C. C., Sta. B. R. R. No. 2. Toledo, Ohio, American Blues.
Lenert, John, 316 Main Ave., Elmwood Place, Cincinnatti, Ohio, New Zealands. Livingstone, W. H., Painesville, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Loftus, V. B., 11 Fuller Ave., Ashtabula, Ohio.
Loose, G. H., 35 Bond St., Ashtabula, Ohio. Flemish. Havanas. Silver Grays.
Loomis, W. W., 344 Stoner Ave., Akron, Ohio, Chinchillas, New Zealands, Blue Beverens, Himalayans, Silver and Pol.
Lux, Joseph, 101 N. Elizabeth St., Mt. Healthy. Ohio.
Maddux, John W., 79 Willis Ave., London, Ohio.
Martin, Geo. L., 58 White Ave., New London, Ohio, New Zealand Reds. Flemish Giants. Marsh, Walter E., 214 E. Smith Rd.. Medina, Ohio, Flemish, New Zealand Reds.
Marks, Frank, 530 E. Chestnut St., Wauseon. Ohio, Flemish Giants and Cavies.
Mathews, Wm. A., 430 Center St., Huron, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Martin, J. Roy, R. R. 4, Box 119, Light Gray Flemish, Havanas.
Mays, D. W., Box 46, Canal Fulton, Ohio, New Zealands.
Mays, D. W., Canal Fulton, Ohio, New Zealands.
Metcalf, F. R., R. R. 10, Fort Wayne, Ohio, New Zealand Blues, Dutch, Havanas.
Miller, Ira M., 217 Summit Ave., Galion, Ohio, Light Gray and Steel Gray Flemish Giants.
Miller, John, R. R. 3. Greenville, Ohio, Flemish and New Zealands.
Miller, Orville E., 3350 Gallia St., New Boston. Ohio.
Miller, Ralph, 208 1/2 Wilbur Ave., Columbus, Ohio.
Miller, Wm., 325 W. Espy St., Kenton, Ohio.
Moran, Wm. P„ R. F. D. No. 4. Box 250-E, Toledo, Ohio.
Munson, H. S. W., 15 Elm St., Willoughby, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Muntzinger, C. A., Box 341, Convoy, Ohio.
Nicodemus. Guy, 223 Buttonwood Ave., Bowling Green, Ohio, New Zealands.
Ober, Paul M., 465 13th St., S. E., Canton, Ohio.
Oldrin, Carl M., 1369 W. 111th St., Cleveland, Ohio, Flemish and New Zealand Reds. Ousler, Clyde, Cambridge and Sutton, Cincinnati, Ohio, New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Pease, E. W., Box 85, Minerva, Ohio, Chinchillas
Peefer, John T., 58 Miller Ave., Xenia, Ohio, New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas.
Petersen, B., 391 S. Main, Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio.
Pierpoint, L. L., 718 Bond St., Marietta, Ohio, New Zealands.
Platt, Roy L., Sciotoville Sta., Portsmouth, Ohio.
Plott, Mrs. C. H., R. F. D. No. 3, Warren, Ohio.
Plotner, O. W., R. 9, Box 534, Toledo, Ohio, Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds. Randall, Miles W., 160 W. Main St., Geneva, Ohio, Flemish and Reds.
Replogle, J. E., R. F. D. No. 8, Box 731, Toledo, Ohio, New Zealand Whites.
Riter, R. S., 538 Grand St., Galion, Ohio, Rabbits and Cavies Ritz, John S., R. R. No. 4, Canton, Ohio, Chinchillas, Reds.
Roberts, O., 284 Follette St., Oberlin, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Rogers, Guy, St. Johns, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Rosenberg, Jos. T., 1780 Taft Rd., Cincinnati, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Ross, H. C., 51 S. Horton St., Dayton, Ohio.
Russ, John A., 1624 Grace Ave., N. E., Canton, Ohio.
Russell, R. H., Fayette, Ohio, New Zealands.
Sautters, Karl, 1020 Roslyn Ave., S. W., Canton, Ohio, Cham. De Argents, Lilacs, Havanas.
Scheiderer, August E., Plain City, Ohio, English Cavies.
Schlaback, Eli C., Berlin Sta., Millersburg, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Schlernitzauer, Louis, 3347 Union St., Bellaire, Ohio, New Zealand Reds.
Schneider, W. H., R. F. D. No. 2, Canton, Ohio, American Silver Gray Rabbits. Schrantz, W. D., 3131 12th St., Canton, Ohio.
Shorb, Dr. Chas. F., 427 Market Ave. South, Canton, Ohio, Rabbits.
Sidle, D. E., P. O. Box 139, Beach City, Ohio.
Silvius, Chas. F., 620 S. Walnut St., Bryan, Ohio, New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Simeth, Clyde, 1085 Warne St., Akron, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Smith, Frank L., 806 Portage St., North Canton, Ohio, American Blues and Silver Giants. Smith, Dr. Howard J., 7-8 Pille Bldg., Massillon, Ohio.
Smith, J. Ruth, Cherry Court, Massillon, Ohio.
Smith, R. E., 646 East Ave., Hamilton, Ohio.
Smith, Ralph W., R. D. No. 1, Box 47, Monroeville, Ohio, Blue Flemish.
Stanton, Noah A., Scott, Ohio, Checkered Giants.
Stratton & Son, G. A., 263 W. Leggett, Wauseon, Ohio, Chinchillas, Flemish Giants. Sutcliffe, A. C., 12712 Woodside Ave., Cleveland, Ohio, Rufus Red Belgians.
Sutter, Clark, Box 210, Pandora, Ohio.
Talbott, Chas. R., 851 Donaldson St., Columbus, Ohio, American Checkered Giants. Tausch, Fred, 795 Wilier Ave., Akron, Ohio.
Thompson, E. W., 2397 Sullivant Ave., Columbus, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Traber, Edward M., 16 North B Street, Hamilton, Ohio.
Troendly, Floyd S., 150 Grant St., New Philadelphia, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Usher, Fred E., R. F. D. No. 2, Geneva, Ohio, Silver Gray and Champagne De Argents. Van Buren, Grant G., Bedford, Ohio.
Wagner, Alfred, Greentown, Ohio, Checkered Giants, Silver Grays.
Weirick, Chas., 711 Hazlett Ave., Canton, Ohio, Checkered Giants.
Wells, C. M., 21 Ames Court, Akron, Ohio.
Williams, G. R., Rt. No. 5, Newark, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Williams, Herbert, Kunkle Bldg., Ashtabula, Ohio, Rabbits and Cavies.
Wirthlin, Ben, 2474 E. 86th St., Cleveland, Ohio, New Zealands.
Wolcott, Al., 347 High St., Kent, Ohio, Gray Flemish.
Wood, John L., R. R. No. 5, Dayton, Ohio, Chinchillas and Cavies.
Wright, S. B., 21 Walnut St., Cincinnati, Ohio.
Wyant, Mason & Son, Bowerston, Ohio, Rabbits.
Wyeth, Dr. C. L., 707 Trust Bldg., Newark, Ohio, Chinchillas, Chinchilla Giants.
Yager, E. J., Box 162, Jefferson, Ohio, Flemish.
Yeager, J. H., 1392 E. 91st St., Cleveland, Ohio.
Zuber, Fred, 212 S. Liberty St., Galion, Ohio, Light Gray Flemish Giants.
Ayers, H. Wood, 5 E. 9th St., Box 848, Oklahoma City, Okla.
Barginde, Sigrid, Box 390, Tulsa, Oklahoma.
Beitmen, D. N., 1621 W. 13th St., Oklahoma City, Okla., New Zealands.
Belknap, Wm. A., 523 S. Creek St., Bartlesville, Okla.
Brown, Mrs. W. H., No. 8 3rd St., Lawton, Okla.
Buskel, Chas. A., 17 S. Phoenix, Tulsa, Okla., New Zealand Reds, Whites, White Flemish, and Champagne De Argents.
Collins, J. W„ 1232 E. 25th St., Tulsa, Okla., New Zealand Reds.
Crawford, Clay, 1111 D Ave., Lawton, Okla., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds. Dieterman, W. F., Drawer B, Barnsdall, Okla., Chinchillas.
Dunn, Amos, Box 111, Sulphur, Okla.
Gossett, W. W., P. O. Box 22, Britton, Okla.
Hadley, Leon, Stroud, Okla., Chinchillas.
Harmon, Ed, 1710 W. 31st St., Oklahoma City, Okla.
Hulen, Lillian, 907 Ave. I, Lawton, Okla., English Cavies and Belgian Hares.
Kaiser, A. J., 1039 N. Walker, Oklahoma City, Okla., New Zealands.
Keller, E. W., 410 E. 8th St., Pawhuska, Okla., New Zealands, Belgian Hares,
Kerr, W. L., 528 W. 6th, Oklahoma City, Okla.
Lindsey, Sam, 905 W. Elm St., Enid, Oklahoma., Giant Heavyweight Chinchillas.
Loud, Mrs. S. R., 332 F Ave., Lawton, Okla.
Mayes, C. W., 2009 W. 14th, Oklahoma City, Okla.
Michel, Mrs. F. A., 1811 E. 24th, R. R. 1, Oklahoma City, Okla., New Zealand Reds, American Blues.
Munneke, Mrs. E., 504 9th St., Clinton, Okla., American Blues and New Zealand Reds. Nagel, A. G., Box 2001, University Sta., Enid, Okla.
Neal, J. P., 720 W. 27th St., South, Oklahoma City, Okla.
Needham, Jack, 1719 W. 31st St., Oklahoma City, Okla.
Oliverson, W. B., 1622 W. 31st, Oklahoma City, Okla., New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas, and Dutch.
Paris, Wm., 1622 W. Park, Oklahoma City, Okla., New Zealand Reds.
Pierce, Mrs. B. C., 717 W. 9th St., Okmulgee, Okla., Flemish Giants.
Polin, John A., 710 W. 11th St., Enid, Okla.
Pope, O. V., Box 77, Locust Grove, Okla.
Ramsey, Walter H., Box 569, Ponca City, Okla.
Robinson, Waire, 1911 W. 28th, Oklahoma City, Okla.
Russell, Jno. L., P. O. Box 265, Frederick, Okla.
Scheetz, Geo., 504 N. Palm St., Ponca City, Okla.
Semtuer, J. F., Box 634, Oklahoma City, Okla., Chinchillas.
Springer, R. R., 1201 W. 42nd, Oklahoma City, Okla.
Thomas, C. W., 1801 W. 32nd St., Oklahoma City, Okla.
Vaden, Hosea O., 114 N. Greenwood, Tulsa, Okla., Belgian Hares.
Way, T. C., 2011 W. 41st St., Oklahoma City, Okla.
Wilson, Mrs. Lelia, Rt. 1, Box 332, Oklahoma City, Okla., New Zealand Reds.
White, R. D., 1309 W. Elm St., Enid, Okla., New Zealand Reds, Whites.
Wittmer, Geo., Ponca City, Okla., New Zealands, Belgians.
Worley, Lake, Tishomingo, Okla.
Ackely, Eugene, M. R. B., Box 139, Bend, Ore., Chinchillas and Flemish.
Ainsworth k Jordan Fur Farm, 1025 Y Ave., La Grande, Ore., Chinchilla Rabbits and Mink.
Allegre, C. F., R. No. 2, Box 235, Hood River, Ore., Chinchillas.
Allen, J. A., Vida, Ore., Chinchillas.
Austin, Bob, Jefferson, Ore., Chinchillas, White Flemish.
Ayers, A. H., R. No. 4, Corvallis, Ore., Chinchillas.
Bain, L. H., Motor Rt. A, Eugene, Ore., Chinchillas and New Zealands.
Bates, Mrs. Harriet, Rt. No. 2, Central Point, Ore.
Beard, J. C., c/o L. T. Co., Box 164, Astoria, Ore.
Blakney, C. E., Box 279, Tigard, Ore.
Brown, Blaine, R. R. 1, Gervais, Ore., Chinchillas.
Brown, Frank, Juntura, Ore., Chinchillas.
Burton, John, Sam’s Valley, Ore.
Calhoun, Ernest F., 1065 N. 10th St., Grants Pass, Ore , Blue Flemish Giants, White New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Calland, K. H., Box 693, Klamath Falls, Ore.
Carlson, F. T., Box 109, Willamette, Ore., Chinchillas.
Chapman, James B., Motor Rt. A, Eugene, Ore., Chinchillas.
Collier, Arnold D., Eugene, Ore.
Conser, Ira T., c/o Murphy Stage, Grants Pass, Ore., Chinchillas.
Cooper, Geo., Rt. 1, Box 201B, Linnton, Ore.
Cummings, Lester, R. F. D. No. 1, 2222 Orchard St., Klamath Falls, Ore., Chinchillas, Gray Flemish.
Dean, W. E., 615 H St., Grants Pass, Ore., Rabbits.
Denhart & Sons, R. F., R. No. 4, Box 463, Portland, Ore., Chinchillas,
Doerr, Irving Jas., 110 James St., Silverton, Ore.
Dorman, W. H., Box 281, Falls City, Ore., New Zealands.
Du Bois, C. M., Box 363, Eugene, Ore.
Edling, W. P., R. No. 2, Box No. 8, Hood River, Ore., Chinchillas.
Elliott, D. B., R. No. 2, Box 26A, Oregon City, Ore., Chinchillas.
Fairchild, B. F., 1156 N. 1st, Box 176, Springfield, Ore., Chinchillas.
Feldman, E. F., Wasco, Ore., Chinchillas.
Feyerisen, Kelly, Sutherlin, Ore., White Flemish.
Duke, Felix, 1051 1/2 Gladstone Ave., Portland, Ore., New Zealands.
Fiyzhugh, Mrs. F. C., Errol Sug Sta., Milwaukie, Ore., Chinchillas and Himalayans. Frazes, C. D., 369 Hemlock St., Portland, Ore.
Fredette, F. C., Medford, Ore.
Gibson, R. D., R. No. 3, Box 127A, Salem, Ore.
Haberman, Ray, Murphy, Ore., Flemish Giants.
Harrison, Myron, Ashwood, Ore.
Hobbs, Frank S., Rt. 1, Turner, Ore., New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas.
Hornback, Ernest. Albany, Ore.
Howard, E. E., 82nd & Beech Sts., Portland, Ore., Chinchillas.
Howarth, Percy, R. R. 1, Box 892, Portland, Ore., Chinchillas.
Hubler, John L., Alsea, Ore., Chinchillas.
Hufford, Arthur, Box 264, Coquille, Ore., Flemish, Chinchillas.
Jefferson, C. M., Box 667, Bend, Ore., Blue Flemish.
Jegstrup, Harold, R. No. 1, Hood River, Ore., Chinchillas.
Jenkins, Dr. Boyd, Hall Bldg., Hood River, Ore., Chinchillas, White Beverens, and Dutch Belted.
Jones, E. V., 363 Helman St., Ashland, Ore., Chinchillas.
Jutzy, J. J., Box 630, Eugene, Ore.
Keeney, Henry F„ Box 93, Motor Rt. B, Bend, Ore., Blue Flemish.
Kessler, Adolph, R. No. 6, Box 153, Oregon City, Ore.
Kins, N. N., 1406 12th St., Hood River, Ore.
Kitchin, A. L., Wilbur, Ore., Chinchillas.
Knudson, Chas. A., 331 Haven St., Medford, Ore., Rabbits.
Larson, H. A., 201 W. Farragut St,, Portland, Ore., Chinchilla Rabbits.
Lattin, Mark, R. F. D. No. 1, Creswell, Ore.
Lea, L. B., M. R. B. Box 125, Bend, Ore., Chinchillas.
Lee, Ray E., Canby, Ore., Chinchillas, Blue Beverens.
Lloyd, Jewel L., Vernonia, Ore., Chinchillas, Flemish Giants.
Lockwood, S. L., R. No. 2, Box 89, Troutdale, Ore.
Loomis, E. E., Mapleton, Ore., Chinchillas.
Looney, John, P. O. Box 81, Molalla, Ore., Chinchillas.
Lowe, Harry H., Talent, Ore., Chinchillas.
Lyle, Howard H., 508 River St., Newberg, Ore., Chinchillas, White New Zealands, Giant Heavyweight Chinchillas.
McBarren, F., Veronia, Ore., Fox, Mink, Chinese Pheasants.
McDermont, Eugene Jas., Bend, Ore., Chinchillas, Flemish.
McDonald, Alex., R. R. No. 2, Box 13, Albany, Ore., New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas. MacKinnon, O. A., 2030 Auburn St., Klamath Falls, Ore., New Zealand Reds.
Magee, Chas. W., Mist Route, Vernonia, Ore.
Malalla Silver Fox Farms, E. Main and Echerd Ave., Malalla, Ore., Chinchillas.
Martin, B. F., Rt. 4, Box 10, Grand Pass, Ore.
Maspherson, J. C., La Grande, Ore.
Malone, J. C., Mt. Pitt Rabbitry, Central Point, Ore.
Merrick, R. C., Rt. 2, Box 731, Portland, Ore., Chinchillas.
Miller, C. W., R. No. 1, Murphy, Ore., Chinchillas.
Milner, H. R., P. O. Box 614, Klamath Falls, Ore., American Blues and French Silvers. Nelson, Grant H., Keno, Ore., New Zealand Reds and Whites.
Nyman, Cecil C., Kings Valley, Ore., Chinchillas.
O'Brien, Walter, R. R. 1, Box 281, Milwaukie, Ore., Chinchillas, Beverens, New Zealands. O'Brien, Walter, R. R. 1, Box 281, Milwaukie, Ore., New Zealand Reds, Whites and Blues. Palmer, C. N., Le Grande, Ore., Silver, Black, Blue, and Red Foxes, Black Skunks, Chinchillas.
Pape, C. W., Shore Acres, Klamath Falls, Ore., Chinchillas.
Pardon, H. J., Cherry Grove, Ore.
Paterson, W., Albany, Ore., Chinchillas.
Pattison, F. R., Hood River, Ore., R. R. 3.
Pike, Mrs, I. D., Grass Valley, Ore., Chinchillas.
Pullet, R. A., 118 S. 3rd St., Corvallis, Ore., Chinchillas.
Pursel, Nelson, R. R. 1, Medford, Ore., New Zealand Reds, Flemish Gray.
Osborn, Hal. E., 3525 68th St., S. E., Portland, Ore.
Osman, Harry, 733 E. Ankeny, Portland, Ore., Flemish Whites, Natural Grays.
Redmond, Mrs. E. W., R. R. 4, Silverton, Ore., Flemish Giants.
Reed, Al., 4226 41st Ave., S. E., Portland, Ore.
Reid, Chas. B., Up River Star Route, Bend, Ore., Chinchillas.
Renner, A. R., Box 595, Klamath Falls, Ore.
Rhea Creek Rabbitry, Heppner, Ore., Chinchillas.
Roseborough, G., Albany, Ore., Blue Beverens.
Sale, G. C., Veronica, Ore.
Sample, W. V., Falls City, Ore.. Chinchillas.
Schaad, Roland W„ R. No. 2, Newberg, Ore.. Chinchillas.
Sbannahan, R. E., 404 W. 15th St., The Dalles, Ore.
Scherrable, Mrs. Alex, 788 Pleasant Ave., Oregon City, Ore.
Scott, Floyd W., M. R. B., Bend, Ore.
Scott, Mrs. Lorraine H., P. O. Box 1103, Medford, Ore.
Shelton. Frank E., Box 342, Freewater, Ore.
Shotwell, S., Box No. 5, R. R. No. 1, Gaston, Ore., Chinchilla Rabbits and Silver Foxes. Shrode, D. L., 705 Sp. 12, Salem, Ore., Chinchilla Rabbits.
Smith, Harry G., Box 152, Oak Grove, Ore., Blue Beverens.
Stacey, C. W., R. R. 1, Vale, Ore., Chinchillas.
Stanley, Oscar D., Rt. 3, Box 15-D, Milwaukie, Ore., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds. Starr & Murray, 727 S. 11th St., Corvalis, Ore., Chinchillas.
Starr, W. E., R. No. 2, Corvallis, Ore., Chinchillas.
Stevens, A. W., R. R. 2, Box 120, Medford, Ore., Flemish.
Stevenson, J. R., Box 254, Klamath Falls, Ore., New Zealands.
Swart, Harry, 2707 N. Birch St., La Grande, Ore., Chinchillas, Golden Fawn, Belgian Hares.
Terpening, Don D., Box 295, Clatskanie, Ore.
Tuck, Mrs. W. J., 195 Madison St., Eugene, Ore.
Uglow, Abel C., Dallas, Ore.
Uglow, J. O., Dallas, Ore.
Walters, Alex, Motor Rt. A, Box 87, Bend, Ore., Chinchillas.
Walker, E. LeRoy, R. R. 1, Box 3A, Hillsboro, Ore., Chinchillas, Flemish, New Zealands. Walkers Fox Ranch, Gresham, Ore.
Weir, V. A., Clackamas, Ore.
Wells, Lester, Motor Rt. A, Box 414, Eugene, Ore., Chinchillas.
West, Robt. M., 551 E. 47th, N., Portland, Ore., Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites.
White, N. I., 1003 W. Jersey, Portland, Ore., Chinchillas, American Blues.
Wight, Prof. H. M., Corwallis Heights, Corvallis, Ore., Chinchillas.
Winters, Edgar C., Madras or Metolius, Ore.
Woolman, Mrs. Golda, Rt. 1, Yoncalla, Ore.
Worrel, Arlie, 476 S. Main St., Ashland, Ore., Flemish, New Zealands, American Blues. Yates, John W., R. 4, Box 120A, Salem, Ore.
Young, R. W., Denio, Ore.
Four Firs Farm, F. Howard Zinzer, R. R. 8, Box 69, Salem, Ore., Chinchillas, Blue Beverens, White Beverens.
Zumbrunn, Emil, Kirk, Ore., French Silvers.
Adams, Joseph, 128 W. Main St., Norristown, Pa., Flemish.
Ambler, W. W., Plymouth Meeting, Pa., Blue and Flemish Giants.
Ankeny, W. V., D. D. S., 504 First Nat. Bank Bldg., Johnstown, Pa.
Ashton, Frank W.. Andalusia, Buck County, Pa., Chinchillas and New Zealands.
Baldwin, Willis, 115 Fayette St., Conshocken, Pa., Rabbits and Supplies.
Baxter, John T., Canadensia (Oakdale LI). Pa.
Betcher, Adam, Box 44, Hatboro, Pa.. Chinchillas.
Blue Ridge Rabbit Farm, 200 E. 7th St., Mt. Carmel, Pa., Chinchillas, New Zealands, and Flemish.
Blyth, Jas., 3008 Owensdale Ave., Brentwood, Pa., English Spotted and Flemish Giants. Bolay, Phil. F., 6355 Cherokee St., Germantown, Pa., Chinchillas.
Bower, S. H., 515 S. Cherry, Myerstown, Pa., Flemish.
Boyer, Walter, 105 Vine St., Fleetwood, Pa.
Bradley, Horace G., 430 W. Wyoming Ave., Philadelphia, Pa.
Brey, H. H., 149 S. Front, Souderton, Pa., Chinchillas, Flemish.
Brill, Frank E„ R. D. No. 2, Media, Pa., Chinchillas and Cavies.
Brill, Primo, Box 471, Masontown, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Brown, Fred, R. F. D. No. 3, Norristown. Pa., Flemish.
Brown, Nevin M., 306 S. High, Selinsgrove, Pa.. Flemish Giants.
Bundy, Clinton F., Emerson and Alder Sts., Pittsburgh. Pa., Chinchillas.
Carman, Frank W., 413 West Ave., Jenkintown. Pa., Chinchillas.
Campbell, L. W., 228 Bridge St., Phoenixville, Pa., Flemish.
Cartee, John, 21 Blackberry Ave., Norristown, Pa., Flemish.
Charlton, J. B., 434 E. Maiden St., Washington, Pa., New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas. Clayden, Harold, 3139 N. 15th St., Philadelphia, Pa.
Clayton, John, Boothwyn, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Coffey, Warren, Greencastle, Pa.
Chinchilla, N. J., 2506 W. 2nd St., Chester, Pa., Chinchillas.
Colegrove, John I., Sheffield, Pa.
Conway, Joseph L., 441 N. Second St., Allentown, Pa.
Costa, Alfred, 3820 N. Marston St., Philadelphia, Pa., Belgian Hares.
Crider, Geo. O., R. R. 2, Chambersburg, Pa.
Critchfield, Paul M., W. Main St., Somerset, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Davis, G. William, 444 Bailey Ave., Pittsburgh, Pa., English.
Davis, Jesse B., 329 Cherry St., Norristown, Pa.
Dawson, John C., R. D. 8, Corry, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Dietrich, Irvin W., Summit Ave., Bernharts, Pa., 12 Varieties.
Dysant, Raymond B., 614 W. 14th St., Tynone, Pa., Chinchillas.
Eastlack, V. G., 335 W. 10th Ave., Conshohocken, Pa., Rabbits.
Ebeling, H. A., Lizelna Rabbitry, 25 Round St., New Castle, Pa., Flemish Giants. Edwards, Edmund, 54 Montgomery Ave., Lonsdale, Pa.
Engel, A. J., 439 Howard St., So. Williamsport. Pa., New Zealand Reds.
Ewan, C. A., Box 98, Marion Pa., Flemish Giants.
Fishers Rabbit Farm, Rices Landing, Pa., Flemish Giants. Chinchillas.
Frederick, Chas. B., Box 53, Plymouth Meeting, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Frommeyer, J. O., R. R. 1, Hatfield, Pa.
Frost, W. E., Harbor Creek, Pa., New Zealand Reds and Himalayans.
Fye’s Rabbitry, Route 2. Emlenton, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Gantt, Basil, R. R. 2, Newport, Pa., Chinchillas.
Garner, M. E„ D. D. S., Main at State, Dayton, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Gerver, Samuel, New Freedom, Pa., American Blues, Chinchillas.
Ginder, Irvin H., R. R., Mt. Joy, Pa.
Gordon, Chas. E., Honey Brook, Pa.
Grubb, John, Churchville, Pa.
Gunter, Dr. John H., Ottsville, Pa.. Chinchillas and Flemish.
Haefner, Adolph, Sr., R. D. No. 3, Moscow, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Hagerman, R. N„ Mason-Dixon, Pa.
Hainly, J. W., Sinking Spring. Pa.
Hance, B. M., 62 N. 3rd St., Easton, Pa.
Harkenych, Wm., P. O. Box 59.1, Mt. Union, Pa.
Harkin, Dr. Malcolm V., 110 E. 10th Ave., Conshohocken, Pa., all breeds for scientific research.
Hart, Lawrence, 43 King St., Pottstown, Pa.
Hazen, Carle B., R. D. 5, Edinboro, Pa., Chinchillas.
Henry, E. Wm., 650 N. Laurel St., Hazelton, Pa., Cavies.
Henry, Roby, 3520 N. Ella St., Philadelphia, Pa., Blue Flemish.
Herrick. Cordelle, Box 117, Erie, Pa., Blue Flemish.
Holton, Al, 1706 W. 15th St., Erie, Pa.
Holtzinger, J E., 205 Coleridge Ave., Altoona, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Huber, Arthur H., Montgomery Co., Rudy, Pa., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants.
Jacobs, Whiley G., Rt. 3, Ephrata, Pa.
Jones, Richard H., 201 Berks St., Highland Pk., Easton, Pa., French Silvers, Checkers, Havanas.
Jones, Mrs. Wilson M., Bucks Co., Penn’s Park, Pa., Guinea Pigs.
Kegerreis, Paul M., 263 Ramsey Ave., Chambersburg, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Kehr, Walter, Rt. 3, Perkasie, Pa., Chinchillas.
Kline, Wallace G., 602 S. Raierood, Myerstown, Pa.
LaBar, Wm., R. F. D. No. 1, Pittston, Pa., Chinchillas.
Lang, H.-S., 26 East Hollam Ave., Washington, Pa., Champagne De Argent.
Leahy, Philip, 37 E. Jacoby St., Norristown, Pa., Flemish.
Lerch, F. S„ 229 Levick St., Philadelphia, Pa.
Ley, Mrs. Clara J., Box 42, Wycombe, Pa., Chinchillas.
Loomis, Paul Attmore, Spruce St., Royersford, Pa.
Ludwick, Fritsch, Herminie, Pa.
Lukachik, Matthew, R. 2, Dorrance Cor., Wapwallopen, Pa.
Lysle, R. E., 1522 Cadwallder St., N., Philadelphia, Pa., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds. MacDonald, Jack, 1903 Manada St., Harrisburg, Pa.
Magline, Angelo, 541 Front St., Allentown, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Mayer, Aurel, 969 Wyoming St., Allentown, Pa.
McCaferty, Francis, 633 Ridge Ave., Allentown, Pa., Red Flemish.
McCarty, S. F., Rt. 3, Hamburg, Pa.
McClintock, Harry E., 1055 Silverdale St., Homewood Sta., Pittsburgh, Pa., Flemish Giants.
McCoy, J. H., 42 N. Church St., Waynesboro, Pa., Flemish Giants, Grays.
McLeister, L. H., 937 Rose Ave., New Castle, Pa.
McNutt, B. S., Uniontown, Pa.
Metz, Havey B., 108 E. Main St., Lansdale, Pa., Chinchillas.
Metzger, Victor N., New Tripoli, Pa., Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds.
Miller, Clinton, Philadelphia Ave., Boyertown, Pa., Cavies.
Miller, Geo. S., 401 W. Main St., Somerset, Pa.
Miller, Warren C., Pipersville, Pa.
Miller, W. H., Montgomery Centry, Trappe, Pa., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Mitten, Chas. E., Hillside Fox & Fur Farm, 129 Park St., Pittston, Pa., Chinchillas.
Moyer, Allen I., 21 Reading Ave., Wyomissing, Pa.
Moysey, Kenneth, East Bangor, Pa.
Musser, Eber L., R. D. No. 2, Chambersburg, Pa., New Zealand Reds.
Nedrow, Ray, Uniontown, Pa., General Delivery.
Nelson, S. A., Lock Box 234, Gallitzin, Pa., Chinchillas.
Newport, Norman F., c/o Erie Steel Barrel Co., 19th and Raspberry Sts., Erie, Pa.
Niblock, H. R., 622 Spring Garden, Ambler, Pa., Flemish.
Nickum, N., 61963 Harvard Ave., Bellevue, Pa.
Orth, Walton A., 242 7 Fairview, Mt. Penn, Pa., New Zealands, Chinchillas, Checkers.
Rahn, Raymond H., 69 Noble St., Kutztown, Pa.
Reber, D., Blain, Pa.
Reeder, W. E., Kutztown, Pa.
Reichl, John, Jr., Rt. No. 1, Norristown, Pa.
Reinhart, William, 1355 N. Ninth St., Reading, Pa., Cavies.
Rhoads, E. G., Friedens, Pa.
Rhoads. Newton H., Rt. 2, Douglassville, Pa., American Blues, Chinchillas.
Rice, Paul J. H., Pamoqua, Pa.
Riley, James R, 236 Parker St., Chester, Pa., Peruvian, Abysinnian, and Angora Cavies and English Spot Rabbits.
Rozanc. Joseph, R. F. D. No. 3, Box 76, McDonald, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Scott, Robt., P.O. Box 6016, Torresdale, Pa.
Shieffler, J. E., Box 93, Hadley, Pa., New Zealands.
Schleicher, Raymond, 1969 Glendale Ave., Bethleham, Philadelphia, Pa., Flemish Giants. Schultz, Norman S., Palm, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Scott, Walter, 1626 Howarsh St., Francford, Philadelphia, Pa., Coores.
Shaffer, Oscar, Senen Valleys, Pa.
Shipe, Ross O., 419 E. Arch St., Pottsville, Pa.
Shore, Dr. C. B., Master Fox Ranch, Wyncote, Pa., Flemish.
Shuker, Walter A., R. 2, Birdsboro, Pa., Pedigreed Flemish Giants.
Sinistri, Anthony C., 411 Rosenthal St., Reading, Pa., 12 Varieties Rabbits.
Smith, Gilbert A.., Curryville, Pa.
Smith, Leon E., 220 Main St., Pen Argyl, Pa.
Smith, Ralph P.. 114 Jackson Ave., West Grove. Pa., Flemish.
Smith, Warren. E., 485 Chestnut St., Meadville, Pa.
Snover, Cecil L., 218 New York St., Scranton, Pa.
Snow, Chas., Petrolia, Butler Co., Pa.
Soldner, G T., 205 E. Broad St., Souderton, Pa., Flemish.
Spencer, Cranston B., Avondale, Pa.
Spenser, Mrs. Elisabeth H. M., R. D. No. 2, West Chester, Pa., Silver Giants, American Blues.
Spullers, G. E., Main St., Kersey, Pa., Belgian Hares.
Stafford, H. A., 8 South Swarthmore Ave., Ridley Park, Pa.
Stark, H. E., Main St., Box 93, Tremont, Pa., Flemish.
Staudt, Ammon C., Bechtelsville, Pa., Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas. Stetler, Wm. W., Jr., R. F. D. No. 1, Norristown, Pa., Flemish.
Stewart, J. F., Butler Pike, Ambler, Pa., Chinchillas and Silver Fox.
Stillings,. R. L., Sandy Lake, Pa.
Strobel, Miss Minerva, R. R. 2, Baltimore Pike, Media, Pa., Chinchillas.
Stump, A. M., 301 N. Jefferson St., New Castle, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Sturges, R. C., Trappe, Pa., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Stutzman, J. A., Rt. 2, Allentown, Pa.
Sullivan, J. J., Rockwood Ave., Pittsburg, Pa.
Swarner, E. B., 327 S. Pitt St., .Carlisle, Pa., New Zealand Reds.
Sweet, B. J., Ridgefield, R. D. 2, Erie, Pa.
Taylor, M. W., Turk Rd., Doylestown, Pa., Checkered Giants, White Flemish, Chinchillas,
Thomas, Russell R., 518 W. .Walnut St., Vandergrift, Pa.
Thompson, Ira R., 3429 Harrisburg St., Corlesa Sta., Pittsburgh, Pa.
Tipton, M. E., 168 E. Middle St., Gettysburg, Pa., Chinchillas.
Tolaud, R. H. R., Phoenixville, Pa., Himilayan Rabbits.
Turner, R. J., R. D. No. 1, Norristown, Pa., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Walter, C. O., R. R. No. 2, E. Stroudsburg, Pa.
Wanless, Earl, Box 515, Ford City, Pa., Chinchillas.
Warner, A. C., 114 Tyson Ave., Glenside, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Warrick, Harry, 50 Brown St., East Stroudsburg, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Way, Chas. T., R. R. 2, Mars, Pa., Gray Belgian Hares.
Webber, A. E. P., 1148 N. 10th, Reading, Pa., 12 Varieties Rabbits.
Wharton, Harry L., Stoneboro, Pa., Flemish.
Willhide,-Culver Z., Rt. 3, Carlisle, Pa., New Zealands.
Wilson, C. D., R. D. No. 5, Gettysburg, Pa., Flemish Giants, Whites, 8 Colored.
Wilson, Ralph W., Box 262, Apollo, Pa., New Zealands.
Witherell, H. R., Philadelphia, Roxborough, Pa.
Wolf, Christ, 910 Lancaster Ave., Reading, Pa.
Yost, Chas. W., 121 Hunter St., Tamoqua, Pa., Chinchillas.
Molina, Alfredo A., Dept. of Finance, San Juan, Porto Rico.
Barnicoat, John, 384 Montgomery Ave., Providence, R. I., American Blues and New Zealand Reds.
Bonvicin, Angelo, R. F. D. No. 1, Chepachet, R. I., All Varieties.
Bray, James W., High St., Pascoag, R. I., Chinchillas.
Cornille, Eugene, 665 Fairmount St, Woonsocket, R. I., Flemish.
Fischesser, Robert, 27 Monroe St., Woonsocket, R. I., Flemish Giants.
Girard, Geo. N., 239 Main St., Woonsocket, R. I.. Chinchillas.
Gooding, Chas., Box 167, Olneyville, R. I., Chinchillas.
Gustafson, John Henry, Box 207, Maple St., c/o Levi St. Armand, Harrisonville, R. I. Houseman, Chas. J., Sta. 53, Lakewood, R. I., Cavies.
Lallouette, Dr. C. F., 1192 Broad St., Central Falls, R. I.
Oliver, Jos. D., 331 Ward St., Woonsocket, R. I., Chinchillas.
Paquette, Gatien B., 579 Diamond Hill Rd., Woonsocket, R. I., Flemish.
Phillips, Oliver A., High St., Pascoag, R. I.
Sweet, Ralph, Chipachet, R. I., Flemish.
York, Geo. H., 1226 Plainfield St., Thornton, R. I., Flemish Giants.
Dukes, Mrs. W. H., Orangeburg, S. C., Chinchillas.
Houston, Paul H., 26 Pinckney, Greenville, S. C., New Zealand Reds.
Peterson, W. R., Greenwood Business College, Greenwood, S. C., Chinchillas and Cavies. Steer, Dudley, Clinton, S. C.
Willis, Geo. G., 110 Lucile Ave., Greenville, S. C., New Zealand Reds.
Bilyen, Wm., Britton, S. Dak.
Borst, Dr. F. H., 204 Boyce, Greeley Bldg., Sioux Falls, S. D.
Brockman, H. A., Box 375, Lennox, S. D.
Clark, J. S., 12 S. Holly Ave., Sioux Falls, S. D., New Zealands, Belgians, American Blues, Cavies.
Fifield, Hugo H., D. D. S., Exchange Bank Bldg., Lennox, S, D.
Fokken, D. D., 702 Cedar Ave., Lennox, S. D., Chinchillas.
Forrette, A. J., 1225 N. Dakota Ave., Sioux Falls, S. D.
Hamilton, S. W., Birtton, S. D.
Hamlin, N. William, Route 3, Sioux Falla, S. D.
Heilman, E., Eureka, S. D., Chinchillas.
James Valley Silver Fox Co., Huron, S. D., Chinchillas.
Jungemann, Rev. J. H., Egan, S. D., Chinchillas.
Larsen, Valdemar, Box 234, Viborg, S. D., Flemish Giants, Chinchillas.
Legel, G. A., Lennox, S. D., Chinchillas.
Lovald, Mrs. Harry, Colton, S. Dak.
Lund, J. P., R. R. 3, Viborg, S. D., Chinchillas.
Meile, Albert E., 518 S. 3rd St., Beresford, S. D.
Paisley, Chas. E., Ft. Pierre, S. D.
Rickmeyer, H. M., P. O. Box 1005, Aberdeen, S. D., Chinchillas.
Schmidt, J. L., Eureka, S. D.
Sommer, Chas. P., Parkston, S. D., Chinchillas.
Sunshine Fur Farm, Vermillion, S. D.
Van Slyke, R. N., 1419 E. 4th St., Sioux Falls, S. D., Flemish, Checkers, American Blues, Havanas.
Wheeler, M., 1101 S. 2nd Ave., Sioux Falls, S. D., Havanas and Chinchillas.
Witt, Frank C., Butler, S. D., Chinchillas.
Arndt, Frank, c/o J. S. Hayes, R. R. 12, Knoxville, Tenn., Rabbits.
Bailey, G. A., Madisonville, Tenn., Chinchillas.
Davenport, Mrs. Addie, Knoxville, Tenn., R. D. No. 7, Box 184, Cavies.
Franklin, J. A., R. R. No. 8, Maryville, Tenn., Flemish Giants.
Gibbons, A. S., Maryville, Tenn.
James, Geo. C., 75 Linden Ave., Germantown, Tenn.
Miles, Rev. J. E., Secretary of Covington Caviary, Covington, Tenn.
Palmer, Basil, Box 905, Kingsport, Tenn., Chinchillas.
Rutherford, A. L., Elizabethton, Tenn.
Adams, Chas. J., 525 E. Munson St., Denison, Tex., New Zealand Reds.
Barker, Mrs. R. E., Box 192, Ranger, Tex., Chinchillas.
Bartlett, Lewis E., Brownwood, Tex., Chinchillas.
Bennett, M., P. O. Box 275, Handley, Tex., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds.
Binder, J. A., Ralls, Tex., Chinchillas.
Brown, I. D., 3214 Milby Ave., Wichita Falls, Tex.
Chambers, W. S., 1909 Alexander Ave., Waco, Tex.
Craighead, N. J., P. O. Box 1152, El Paso, Tex., New Zealand Reds, American Blues. David, D. L„ 240 W. 8th St., Dallas, Texas.
Dixon, Ben H., 1502 Ave. Q, Lubbock, Tex.
Dovenport, Wm., 3104 S. Wesley, Greenville, Tex.
Downs, Lee, 2206 Giant St., Wichita Falls, Tex., New Zealand, Reds.
Farris, S. J., R. R. 577, Port Arthur, Tex.
Fayne, O. C., Stanton, Tex., Chinchillas, Black Flemish Giants.
George, R. L., 2017 Thomas Place, Ft. Worth, Tex., New Zealand Reds.
George, W. H., Box 195, Alba, Tex.
Gray, Ed, 1227 S. Ewing St., Dallas, Tex., All Breeds.
Greening, Fred, 15 Milwaukee St., Plainview, Tex., New Zealand Reds.
Hagans, H. O., Box 4, Sweetwater, Tex.
Hamby, Frank M., 4401 Red River St., Austin, Tex.
Hanks, R. E. L., 2914 Carpenter St., Dallas, Tex.
Heitman, H. T., Tomball, Tex., New Zealand Reds.
Hirstine, J. L., 2314 Pearl Ave., Fort Worth, Tex., New Zealands.
Holden, Glenn W., 510 N. P. Anderson Bldg., Ft. Worth, Tex., Reds and Chinchillas. Hooper, W. C., P. O. Box 103, Nacogdocker, Tex.
Hutchins, C. G., 2601 St. Louis Ave., Ft. Worth, Tex.
Jaggears, Texia, R. 1, Maud, Tex., Chinchillas.
James, Oscar, 903 Marshall, Houston, Tex.
Kelly, Otis A., 70 Continental Oil Co., Cisco, Tex.
Kemp, R. W., 3821 Parry Ave., Dallas, Tex.
Kerr, C. W., 319 W. Gandy, Denison, Tex., New Zealands.
Lacy, Edward L., Box 322, Arlington, Tex., New Zealand Reds.
Law, Robert, R. R. 5, Box 369, Houston, Tex., Chinchillas.
Locke, Otto Martin, Jr., P. O. Drawer 731, New Braunfels, Tex., Rabbits and Cavies. Marsh, Mrs. T., 215 Drennan St., Houston, Tex., Chinchillas.
Mayhugh, N. B., 26 Grant Bldg., Plainview, Tex.. Chinchillas.
Messer, Miss Gertrude E.. P. O. Box 956, Ft. Worth, Tex.
Mitchell, B. E., P. O. Box 894, Plainview, Tex., New Zealand Reds.
Moore, Vernon E., 301 W. Summit Ave., Electra. Tex.
Musick, J. E., Box 1105, Burkburnett, Tex., Chinchillas, American Whites, New Zealand Whites, New Zealand Reds.
Niceswanger, M. A., 1847 7th Ave., Port Arthur, Tex., New Zealands.
Nobles, L. H., 2212 Ong St., Amarillo, Tex.
Parker, A. D., P. O. Box 456, Tulia, Tex.
Rauch, Isadore, 1602 Avenue H, Galveston, Tex.
Reeder, S. N., R. 1, Box 5-7, Dallas, Tex.
Renshaw, Joe B. 2501 Model St., Dallas, Tex., New Zealands, Flemish, Belgians, Dutch, Checkered Giants.
Rodesney, G. N. Box 1784, Houston, Tex.
Rosenquest, E. J., 7802 Dayton Ave., Houston, Tex., Chinchillas.
Sawyer, E. B., 165 Hardesty St., El Paso, Tex.
Scholl, Dr. W. A., New Braunfels, Tex., Chinchillas, Cavies, New Zealands.
Schorre, R. T., 302 E. Live Oak St., Cuero, Tex., New Zealands.
Seat, Barney L., 3018 Meadow Brook Drive, Ft. Worth, Tex.
Shelton, R. A., R. R. 2, Tyler, Tex.
Smith, E. N., 700 Travis Ave., Ft. Worth, Tex., New Zealand Reds, Whites, and American Whites, Havanas, Himalayans, and Lilacs.
Smith, Mrs. E. E., 1322 Britton St.. Wichita Falls, Tex.
Smith, Wm. L., 103 Waco St., Wichita Falls, Tex.
Spurlock, Byron, Flatonia, Tex., Chinchillas, Cavies, English Barvarians.
Stumpff, G. J., Box 366, Texarkana, Tex.
Thompson, L. M., Galveston, Tex.
Towery, B. H., Court House, Plainview, Tex.. Chinchillas.
Vanderpoel, P. W„ Plainview, Tex., Chinchillas.
Weatherred, W. W., Rt. 3, Box 14D, Houston, Tex.
Wells, B. H., Mineral Wells, Tex., Belgian Hares.
White, Lloyd D., 2303 Pearl Ave., N. Ft. Worth, Tex.
Wilson, Mrs. Ed. O., 501 W. Cleveland Ave., Electra, Tex.
Wynn, Jack K., "X-All Rabbitry,” 615 Grainger, Ft. Worth, Tex., New Zealand Reds.
Allen, Orin, Box 265, Fillmore, Utah.
Allred, Horace, Monticello, Utah.
Allred, Wm. P., P. O. Box 251, Mt. Pleasant, Utah, Chinchillas and White New Zealands. Gl. Giants.
Anderson, Otto, 5470 S. State St., Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Baird, Geo. A., Box 584, Brigham City, Utah, New Zealands.
Beckstead & Allred, Drs., 53 E. Center, Nephi, Utah, Chinchillas and American Whites. Bird, W. J., 2194 So. West Temple St., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Brown, Dr. J. H., Sandy City, Utah, Flemish.
Brunson, Mrs. Ed, Utah County, Fairfield, Utah.
Buck, Luther, R. F. D. No. 5, Ogden, Utah, New Zealand Reds.
Clark, P. R„ 324 Lucy Ave., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Coakley, Dan W., 335 E. 27th St., S., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Dahl, Paul A., Midvale, Utah, Flemish.
Davis, N. W„ 3587 East 35th, South, Salt Lake City, Utah, New Zealand Whites. Dimmick, A. M., R. D. No. 2, Box 2, Provo, Utah, Flemish Giants.
Doyle, Wm., 3729 Ogden Ave., Ogden, Utah.
Edwards, Lewis, Ferron, Utah, Chinchillas.
Ellison, L. Evan, Layton, Utah.
Fauson, A., 513 So. 3 West, Brigham, Utah.
Fish, Jesse L., St. George, Utah, Chinchillas.
Fletcher, J. I., Park City, Utah, Flemish.
Fowler, Mrs. W. H., 3411 S. 7th E., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Friedell, Morley, 366 N. 1st St., Box 532, Tooele, Utah.
Fuller, J. E., 30 N. 1st E St., Box Elder Co., Brigham City, Utah.
Gills, Helen M., Sandy, Utah.
Hart, W. T., 467 Goshen St., Salt Lake City, Utah, New Zealand Reds.
Haws, J. J., Box 105, Marysvale, Utah, Chinchillas.
Heurie, Irven L., Gunnison, Utah.
Hibbard, S. A., R. F. D. No. 1, Sandy, Utah, Flemish.
Hogan, R. B., 943 S. 10th East, Salt Lake City, Utah, Chinchillas.
Inama, D., 446 17th St., Ogden, Utah.
Johnson, Veral S., 755 W. 3rd St., Provo, Utah, Flemish Steels, Grays, and Blacks. Kimberlin, R. E., 915 W. 2nd South, Salt Lake City, Utah.
Lewis, D. L., Bountiful, Utah.
McAfee, J. J., Lehi, Utah.
McCall, James G„ 2901 Childs Ave., Ogden, Utah.
McGhan, C. A., 39th S. and Highland Drive, Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish Giants. Meiklejohn, Wm., Brigham City, Utah.
Meiling, Jack, Spanish Fork, Utah. Flemish, Chinchillas.
Melgaard, S. P., Fairview, Utah, Flemish Giants.
Merklyohn, Wm., R. R. No. 2, Brigham City, Utah, Flemish.
Morris, E. L., 415 Eccles Bldg., Ogden, Utah.
Page, Chas., 161 West St., Ogden, Utah, Imp. Chinchillas, Flemish Giants, Reg. Pendleton, W. O., Lofgreen, Utah.
Peterson, S. Leon, P. O. Box 455, Provo, Utah.
Price, T. F., Jr., 2028 W. N. Temple, Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Pritchett, Frank, 490 E. 1st North St., Richfield. Utah.
Reid, Sam, 141 W. 2nd St., North, Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Rohde, Chas. C., 1782 Glasgow Ave., Ogden, Utah.
Rohde, Chas. W., 1782 Glasgow Ave., Ogden, Utah, Belgian Hares.
Saathoff, Martin, 1245 S. Redwood Rd., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Smith, Archie, P. O. Box 192, Morgan, Utah, Chinchillas.
Smith, Brig., 4150 S. State St., Murray, Utah.
Smith, David, 4762 S. State St., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Smith, David W., 4734 Hanauer Ave., Murray, Utah, Flemish.
Smith, L. A., 133 S. 1st West, Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Sommerkorn, Gus W., 1082 Jeremy St., Salt Lake City, Utah, Chinchillas.
Sorenson, Edward, Manti, Utah.
Stanbridge, A. T., 741 S. 2nd W., Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Stephens, A. V., R. D. No. 4, Ogden, Utah, Flemish and Chinchillas.
Stoker, Loney, Huntsville, Utah.
Summerkern, G. H., 1082 Jeremy St., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Taylor, Dr. G. Evan, Kaysville, Utah, White Beverens.
Trinnaman, Thos., Lahi, Utah.
Vance, Al. W., 2435 S. 5 E., Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Vance, L. H., 1344 Wasatch Ave., 61 Cordelia Ave., Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish. Wasatch Fur Farm, 1515 S. State St., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Wilkins, J. T., 200 E. 8th South, Springville, Utah, Flemish and Chinchillas.
Will, Ernest, 760 Araphoe, Salt Lake City, Utah, Cavies.
Williams, L. P., 791 W. 2nd North, Provo, Utah.
Wilson, D. W., R. F. D., No. 3, Box 288, Provo, Utah, Flemish Giants.
Zimmerman, C. H., 202 Union Station, Salt Lake City, Utah.
Best, Homer W., Enosburg Falls, Vt.
Carter, Herman L., Main St., Lyndonville, Vt.
Darling, Leonard W., Darlington Rabbitry, So. Peacham, Vt., Flemish and Chinchillas. Dutton, Donald, R. R. No. 2, lrasburg, Vt, Flemish Giants.
Gross, Vaughn, R. F. D. No. 1, Richford, Vt., Rabbits.
Kenfield, G. R., R. D. No. 3, Cambridge Vt., New Zealands.
Minckler, Louis J., c/o Island Villa, Grand Isle, Vt.
Mountain Glen Fur Farm, Marshfield, Vt.
Pratt, Lawrence M., Gaysville, Vt., Flemish Giants.
Seaver, Frank J., Waitsfield, Vt.
Sharrow, R. H., Morrisville, Vt., Chinchillas.
Small, Charles, 75 Killington Ave., Rutland, Vt.
Stender, Ellsworth, Tunbridge, Vt.
Stevens, R. W., Montgomery Center, Vt., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants.
Tripp, A. L., Lyndonville, Vt., Flemish, Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds.
Wyman, Willie W., Lowell, Vt., Flemish Giants, Belgian Hares.
Anderson, L. M., Box 132, East Radford, Va.
Ballentine, Rolland, Box 264, Portsmouth, Va.
Bristol, Mrs. Phila J., R. R. No. 3, Bristol, Va., New Zealands and White Zealands. Davis, M. C., Vienna, Va., New Zealand Reds.
Hagood, H. O., Danville. Va.
Herndon, Rosalie M., R. F. D. No. 1, Alexandria, Va.
Holly, R. W., Appalachia, Va., Chinchillas.
Irving, J. W„ Vienna, Va.
Kline, Fred E., P. O. Box 65, Middletown, Va.
Murray, Jos. H. Jr., c/o Murray Hill, Boones Mill, Va., Rabbits.
Price, R. E., Box 74, Phenix, Va.
Spessard, H. E., 18 Maine, Schoolfield, Va., Flemish Giants.
Steele, Frank A., 509 N. Washington St., Alexandria, Va., New Zealand Reds, American Blues, and a few Flemish Giants.
Stephens, Mink Ranch, Box 562, Wytheville, Va., Chinchillas.
Warne, Harry E., Bedford, Va., Flemish Giants, Chinchillas,
White, J. S., Wakefield, Va.
Abbott, Mrs. G. C., Chelan, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Adams, Geo. H., Star R., Box 28, Hoquiam, Wash.
Almlee, C. J., Nooksock, Wash., Chinchillas and White Angoras.
Anderson, Miss Emma C., 218 W. 8th, Spokane, Wash., American Blues, New Zealand Whites.
Andrews, Lyle, Sumner, Wash., New Zealand Whites, Flemish Giants, French and Himalayans.
Aukland, R. F„ Box 1335, Yakima, Wash.
Baird, E., Burlington, Wash., Beverens.
Baker, E. W., Mrs., Tekoa, Wash.
Baldwin, Myon A., R. F. D., No. 1, Box 130, Lynden, Wash., Chinchillas and Blue Beverens.
Banks, T. Harvey, Bothell, Wash., Chinchillas.
Barber, H. A., 17l4-22nd St., So, Bellingham, Wash., New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas. Barringer, J. A., R. F. D. No. 5, Mt. Vernon, Wash., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Ballard, Pete, Woodinville, R. F. D., Hollywood, Wash., Chinchillas.
Barrickland, W. E., Box 1878, Spokane, Wash., American Bines.
Bielenberg, A. W. Uniontown, Wash.
Bigelow, F. M., Box 83, Carlton, Wash., Chinchillas.
Blackburn, Nona, 224 Yew St., Bellingham, Wash., Chinchillas.
Boehm, F. E., 5223 N. 42nd, Tacoma, Wash., French Silver Chinchillas.
Bolle, Thos. J., 920 N. Alden, Tacoma, Wash., French Silvers, American Blues.
Bonnalie, Dr. W. S., Box 253, Anaeortes, Wash.
Bowen & Snyder, 2020-3rd Ave., Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas.
Bowles, A. H., 1611 W. 5th Ave., Spokane, Wash.
Bowles, Geo. H., Kent, Wash.
Boyer, Albert E., Rt. No. 4, Box 123, Wenatchee, Wash., Chinchillas and White Flemish Giants.
Brandis, Carl M., Rt. No. 1, Box 39, Camas, Wash., New Zealand Reds, American Blues. Butler, L. V., 312- 1st St., Mount Vernon, Wash., All breeds.
Bradford, C. D., R. F. D. No. 5, Box 344, Vancouver, Wash.
Brenner, Miss Agnes, R. No. 4, Box 49, Tacoma, Wash., All fur bearing breeds.
Briggs, Mr. G. E., R. 6, Box 546, Seattle, Wash.. Chinchillas.
Brinkman, C. E., 2614 Everett, Box 196, Hillyard, Wash., Steel Gray and Black Flemish. American Blues.
Brislin, J. P., 302 6th St., N. W., Puyallup, Wash.
Brist, D. O., 305 Golt St., Centralia, Wash.
Brown, A. O., R. R. No. 7, Box 80, Spokane, Wash.
Carl, Mina, Cosmopolis, Wash., Chinchillas.
Carlisle, L. E., R. R. No. 2, Prosser, Wash.
Carter, H. K., Box 174, 7430 S. J St., Tacoma, Wash.
Chain, C. F., R. D. No. 8, Box 229A, Seattle, Wash., Blue Flemish, White Flemish, White New Zealands, Himalayans.
Chausser, R. F., R. No. 1, Box 163A, Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Christenson, C., Box No. 61, Carson, Wash.
Claypool, W. M., 8640 Duwamish Ave., Seattle, Wash.
Cleary, Grover, Seattle, Wash.
Cleveland, Glenn S., P. O. Box 35, Spokane Bridge, Wash., Chinchillas, White Flemish Giants.
Cochrane, Louis O., Yelm, Wash., Silver Tip Flemish.
Colony, C. J., 915-39th St., Anacortes, Wash., Chinchillas and Flemish.
Conner, H. S., Jr., Loomas, Wash.
Cosper, Cecil, Walla Walla, Wash., Chinchillas, Havanas, Angoras, New Zealand Whites. Cowdery, J., 4748-11 N. E., Seattle, Wash., New Zealand Whites.
Daniels, Theo. H., R. 7, Spokane, Wash.
Dillon, A. L., Rt. No. 2, Sequim, Wash.
Dodge, W. F., 5201 South I St., Tacoma, Wash., Blue Flemish, French Silvers, American Blues, Gray and Steel Flemish.
Dawson, W. V., Marysville, Wash., Chinchillas.
Dougherty, W. A., 2424 Baker Ave., Everett, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Draucker, Guy D., e/o Three Lakes Lumber Co., R. R. No. 4, Smohmish, Wash.
Easburn, Walter, R. F. D. No. 3, Arlington, Wash.
Eberling, W. H., N. 5004 Magnolia St., Spokane, Wash., New Zealand Flemish Giants. Edwards, Geo., Wickersham, Wash., Chinchillas.
Elledge, Gertie, R. F. D. No. 1, Box 176, Bellingham, Wash., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds.
Elins, Mrs. F. N., Clayton, Wash., Flemish Giants, Chinchillas.
Embertson, Edna, R. No. 2, Anacortes, Wash., Chinchillas.
Ensley, Edwin, R. D. No. 1, Box 23, Almota, Wash., Rabbits.
Eschbach, Gus, R. R. No. 6, Box 117, Tacoma, Wash., Chinchillas.
Evans, A. E., Yakima, Wash., Chinchillas.
Fall, Alex, R. A.. Box 111, Aberdeen, Wash., Chinchillas and White Flemish.
Farrington, S., Wenatchee, Wash., Chinchillas.
Farver, L. S., Tonasket, Wash., New Zealand Reds and White Chinchillas.
Fechko, Michael, 2559 S. Steel St., Tacoma, Wash., Chinchillas.
Feden, Henry, R. R. No. 8, Spokane, Wash., New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Fenton, W. E., Burlington, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Filmore, B. M., 500 Harrisman St., Aberdeen, Wash., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants. Fisher, Jas., R. R. No. 1, Monroe, Wash., Chinchillas.
Fordham, M. S., R. No. 1, Box 319, Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Fraley, C. H., Lynden, Wash.
Franklin, Mrs. W. H., 710 Broad, Mount Vernon, Wash., French Silvers, Havanas.
Fuller, Dr. W. E., Box 325, Bellingham, Wash., Chinchillas and White New Zealands.
Fritz, J. W„ 3423 N. 36th St., Tacoma, Wash.
Gantt, Hugh H., Olga, Deer Pt., San Juan Islands, Wash., Chinchillas.
Garter, C. E., 1808 E. 4th Ave., Spokane, Wash.
Gatewood, C. O., Donald, Wash., High grade Chinchillas.
Gay, G. M., Deming, Wash.
Gibson, Jas., Box 755, Port Orchard, Wash,, Chinchillas.
Gilderman, George F., 413 E. 25th St., Tacoma, Wash., Different breeds.
Ghormley, Harry K., Y. M. C. A., Centralia, Wash.
Glatz, F. H., The Florence Rabbitry, Mount Vernon, Wash.
Glidden, Mrs. U. S., 309 North Ave., Bellingham, Wash., Chinchillas.
Goclinam, Chas., Box 183, Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Goodman, W. R„ P. O., Box 177, Entiat, Wash., New Zealands.
Goodwin, Mrs. J. A., 727 W. Cleveland A., Spokane, Wash., Flemish, New Zealands, Dutch, Himalayans, Checkers.
Grothorne, E„ R. No. 1, Box 478, Everett, Wash., Chinchillas, Flemish.
Gruber, Wm., 1318 E. 52nd St., Tacoma, Wash.
Gunstone, John, Olympia, Wash., Chinchillas, Cavies, Silver Black Fox.
Haase, F. M., Winthrop, Wash., Chinchillas.
Hagerson, Doc, R. R. No. 3, Box 147R, Tacoma, Wash.
Hainse, Harry C., Puget Rt., Olympia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Halliburton, B., c/o Merkle Hotel, Tacoma, Wash., Rabbits.
Hanson, Evac E., 515 Warren St., Mt. Vernon, Wash., Chinchillas, Blue Beverens Flemish Giants.
Hanson, Olaf, Box 104, Omak, Wash., Chinchillas.
Hardison, G. H., R. F. D. No. 1, Bellingham, Wash., Chinchillas.
Harvey, J. W., 7203 S. Oakes, Tacoma, Wash., Flemish Giants, New Zealands.
Hawley, Frank, Lynden, Wash.
Heberling, Clyde A., Colville, Wash., Chinchillas.
Hendrickson, Tom, Carson, Wash.
Hinckley, E. C., Lake Burien, Box 1, Seattle, Wash., New Zealand Whites, Chinchillas. Hobart, V. A., Dalkena, Wash., Chinchillas, Flemish, Blues, New Zealands and others. Hodgberg, Ed., R. R. No. 2, Bow, Wash., Chinchillas, Flemish Whites.
Hoeft, Jaek, N. 1314 Div., Spokane, Wash., Flemish, New Zealands.
Hogue, G. M., Ellensburg, Wash.
Hunt, A. E., Hamilton, Wash., Chinchillas.
Ingalls, C. A., 322 Stokes Bldg., Everett, Wash., Foxes and rabbits.
Ingebrighter, O., Issaquah, Wash.
Jackson, G. O., Cooks, Wash.
James, Chas. H., Box 1834, Spokane. Wash.
James, Phil. C., R. R. No. 5, 31-A, Deer Park, Wash.
Jamison, D. W., R. R. No. 4, Snohomish, Wash., Chinchillas.
Johnson, Mrs. Walter, Almira, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Jura, Jos. G., Husum, Wash., Chinchillas, Beverens, Silvers.
Kane, J. O., Parker, Wash., New Zealand Whites.
Kemp, C. R., 3582 East F. St., Tacoma, Wash.
Kern, C. W., R. R. No. 2, Selah, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Kinney’s Golden Rule Rabbitry, R. R. No. 3, Olympia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Klaus, N. H., 819 State St., Sedro-Wooley, Wash., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants.
King, Joe, 1901-32nd St., So. Bellingham, Wash.
Kubinzkv, Ernest C., R. No. 4, Box 818A, Tacoma, Wash., Chinchillas.
Kuhn, Charlie, R. F. D. No. 4, Pomeroy, Wash., Am. Blues.
Larson, Miss Ruth, R. R. No. 1, Box 79, Mt. Vernon, Wash., White Flemish, Giants. Laughlin, J. G., 1505 W. Sharp Ave., Spokane, Wash., New Zealand Reds.
Leathers, Jas. K., R. R. No. 8, Box 11, Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas.
Leeman, Russell K., 324 Metcalf St., Sedro-Wooley, Wash., Chinchillas.
Lentz, Herman, 1104 N. B. St., Ellensburg, Wash., Chinchillas.
Lindermuth, Mrs. Hester, R. R. No. 5, Box 136, Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Little, J. J., Sedro-Wooley, Wash
Longoria, Mrs. Ida, Malone, Wash., Chinchillas, Havanas, Blue Beverens, White New Zealands.
Losey, E. H., Rt. No. 2, Box 236, Edmonds, Wash., New Zealands.
Losey, Ray, 9th and Laurel Sts., Kelso, Wash., Chinchillas. New Zealands.
Maben, Mrs. Walter, 2702 Pacific Ave., Hoquiam, Wash., Blue Flemish and Chinchillas. McCarthy, P. J., Sedro-Wooley, Wash., Chinchillas, and Havanas.
McCubrey, J. H., R. R. No. 3, Box 198, Vancouver, Wash., New Zealands, Martin, Mink, Chinchillas.
McFadden, Dr. J. C., R. F. D. No. 7, Box 184, Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas.
McGuffin, Rex E., 2435 Lafayette St., Bellingham, Wash.
MeGuane, H. H., R. No. 3, Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas, Blue Flemish, New Zealand Whites.
McLarry, Lueien, Box 321, Pasco, Wash., Chinchillas.
Martin, Mrs. E. M., Box 764, Port Orchard, Wash.
Marshall. G. A., P. O. Box 175, Parkland, Wash., White New Zealands.
Mason, Mrs. Stewart. Lynden, Wash., Chinchillas.
Melheim, Elsie, 211 W. Lovett St., Aberdeen, Wash., White Flemish, Chinchillas.
Merrill, Fred S., R. F. D., No. 1, Greenacres, Wash.
Meyer, Chas., R. R. No. 2, Bellevue, Wash., Flemish, White and Red New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Miller, L. J., 1906 S. 41st St., Tacoma, Wash., Chinchillas.
Morton, H. T., 715 High St., Bellingham, Wash., Chinchillas.
Mountain View Rabbitry, Selleek, Wash., White New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Munz, Mrs. V. E., R. R. No. 4, Ellensburg, Wash., Chinchillas.
Mylroie, Mrs. A. J., 1146-N. 77th, Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas.
Nagatomo, M., Box 546, Longview, Wash.
Needham, Judge John, 719 N. 61st St., Seattle, Wash.. New Zealand and Flemish Giants. Nelson, H. W., R. 2, Box 310A. Kirkland, Wash., Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites. Nelson, J. A., Rt. No. 4, Box 317A, Tacoma, Wash., Flemish Giants, Natural Gray, Steel Gray and Black.
Nobles, W. A., Union City, Wash.
Norman, C. S., 2418 E. 3rd Ave., Spokane, Wash., American Silver Grays.
Norman, Chas. S., 2418 E. 3rd Ave., Spokane, Wash., Flemish and American Checker Giants.
Oliver, T. H. 8525-17 Ave., N. W., Seattle, Wash., New Zealand Reds and Flemish Giants.
Orren, H. T., 2617 Victor St., Bellingham, Wash., Chinchillas.
Ottosen, S. C., R. R. No. 7, Box 44 L. B., Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas, Blue and White Flemish.
Orwig, R. J., 130 H St., S. E., Auburn, Wash., Chinchillas.
Overman & Jay, 9125-8th Ave., S.. Seattle, Wash.
Paddock, Dollie, R. No. 11, Box 85, Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas.
Padgett, J. L., No. 144, MeCleary, Wash., Chinchillas.
Padoshek, Frank, Box 381, Winatchee, Wash., Chinchillas.
Paige, H. A., 850 S. 6th St., Mt. Vernon, Wash., Chinchillas.
Palmer, Geo., Box 204, Centralia, Wash.
Parker, Maynard, H., Route 1, Grandview, Wash., Chinchillas.
Patterson, J. A., Elma, Wash., French Silver Chinchillas, Silver Tips, Gray Flemish. Payne, Jennie B., Aloha, Wash.
Penney, F. G., 23 W. Galer St., Seattle, Wash.
Pettit, J. W., 1205 E. Grand, Everett, Wash.
Petts, R. W. Colville, Wash.
Philby, Stirly, Station I, Box No. 66, Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas.
Pickett, J. P., 2750 Wiskah Rd., Aberdeen, Wash., Chinchillas.
Piepel, Frank B., R. No. 4, Wenatchee. Wash.
Plunkitt, H. H., 1909 E. Pacific St., Spokane, Wash.
Pointer, L. R., Yakima, Wash., Chinchillas and White Siberians.
Porro, Thomas J., 1701 Washington Bldg., Tacoma, Wash.
Powell, Lulu E. 1012 S. 10th Ave., Yakima, Wash., New Zealand Reds.
Puffert, Wm. F., Douglas, Wash.
Pugh, Dr. J. M., 301 Hoyt Ave., Everett, Wash., Blue and White Beverns, Chinchillas. Rhodes, Mrs. Pearl, Benton City, Wash., Flemish Giants, White New Zealands.
Rice, H. S., North, 5022 Stone St., Box 242, Spokane, Wash., Rabbits.
Richards, A. B., Charleston, Wash.
Richards, Dr. P. W., Sedro-Woolley, Wash., Flemish (Steels, Grays and Blues), Havanas. Richardson, J. B., Lakeside, Wash., Chinchillas.
Richardson, Myron H., E. 403 Heroy Ave., Spokane, Wash., Havanas, Chinchillas. Ridenhour, R., Wiekersham, Wash., Chinchillas.
Rogers, Chas. I, Custer, Wash., Chinchillas.
Rogers, R. B., Orcas Rabbitry, East Sound, Wash., Chinchillas.
Ronibalski, S. A., R. No. 1, Box 280, Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Sampair, Mrs. J. E., Star Route, Box 50, Hoquiam, Wash., Chinchillas.
Safford, E. O. and C. E. Habiger. 39l4-29th Ave., Spokane, Wash., Chinchillas.
Sammons, Howard, 1803 W. Pacific, Spokane, Wash., New Zealand, American Blues. Saunders, Albert, Kitsap County, Wash., Reds, Giants and Chinchillas.
Saunders, Clifford, F. A., 1729 Colby Ave., Everett, Wash., Chinchillas.
Schimmels, Ervin, R. R. No. 8, Spokane, Wash., New Zealands and Giants.
Scholl, J., 9008-30th Ave., S. W., Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas.
Scott, Dorothy, Zillah, Wash., New Zealand Whites and Reds.
Sheets, W. E., Meethon 129, Wenatchee, Wash.
Smith, Carl H„ 1114 S. Jay St., Tacoma, Wash., White Flemish Giants and Chinchillas. Smith, Charles B., 703-28th St., So. Seattle, Wash.
Smith, F. O., P. O. Box 531, Elma, Wash., Himalayans, Belgian Hares, French Silvers, Silver Tips.
Smith, Mrs. Guy, K. Star Rt., Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants.
Smith, Herbert N., 216 N. Reed St., Sedro-Wooley, Wash., Chinchillas and Flemish. Spears, Earl, 126 Maple, Snokomish, Wash., Chinchillas.
Stage, Wm. D., Peshastin, Wash., Chinchillas.
State College of Washington, Pullman, Wash.
Star Rabbitry, Prop., E. W. Wilson, 402 South St., Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas, White Beverens.
Steffensen, H. E., Rt. No. 5, Box 161, Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Steinfadt, Herman, 2416 Madrona St., Bellingham, Wash., Himalayans.
Stockford, H. S., R. No. 6, Box 88, Vancouver, Wash.
Strixner, Max, Kelso, Wash.
Sunrise Rabbitry, 8480 Fauntleroy Ave., Seattle. Wash., Chinchillas.
Taylor, Valina F., Bellevue, Wash., Black Siberians, and Havanas.
Taylor, Washington, 906 E. Main St., Auburn, Wash., Chinchillas.
Tischer, H. E., P. O. Box 292, Orting, Wash.
Tolvstad, J. H., 422 W. Curtiss St., Aberdeen, Wash.
Towner, F. B., 11-B St., S. E., Auburn, Wash., Chinchillas.
Trotter, F. J., Cascade Rabbit and Fur Farm, Yelm, Wash., Chinchillas and Sliver Tips. Twitchell, H. F. Jr., 1920 W. Dean Ave., Spokane, Wash.
Utz, Glenn H., Prosser, Wash.
Urson, Mrs. Violet, 7719 Stone Ave., Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas.
Vendome Fur Farm, Sedro-Woolev, Wash.
Vest, Mrs. Chas. E., R. R. No. 2, Wenatchee, Wash.. Chinchillas.
Warsinski, A. E., R. F. D. No. 8, Spokane, Wash., Chinchillas, and Silver Tips.
Watson, J. H., Deming, Wash., Chinchillas.
Watson, W. A., Veradale, Wash.
Wangsness, J. A., 9435 17 St., S. W., Seattle, Wash., Standard and Heavy Weight
Ward, Mrs. Hattie R., R. R. No. 5, Box 327, Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas, Blue Flemish, Blue Eyed White Beverens.
Weiser, E. E„ e/o Weiser’s Farm, Everett, Wash.
Wellman, M, S., Sprague, Wash., Chinchillas.
Wells, J. F., 508 White Bldg., Seattle, Wash.
Wesley, Mrs. Mary, Graham, Wash., Chinchillas and White New Zealands.
White, E. A., 504 N. 45th, Seattle, Wash.
White, G. L., Everett, Wash.
White, N. I., Box 105, La Center, Wash., Blue Beverens, White Beverens, Chinchillas, Havanas.
Whitney, Chas. L., Box 202, Parkland, Wash., Chinchillas.
Whitman, P. I., 2470 Lakeway Drive, Bellingham, Wash., Havanas.
Wikstrom, J. A., 214 N. Sixth St., Yakima, Wash., Chinchillas.
Williams, Harvey, Box 101, Bremerton, Wash., Flemish.
Williams, Seymour, R. F. D. No. 2, Box 243 B, Olympia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Wilson, Frank, 1715-35th St., S. Bellingham, Wash., Chinchillas.
Wilson, A. R., Marblemount, Skagit Co., Wash., Chinchillas, Havanas, Flemish Giants, New Zealand Whites.
Wilson, S. A., 714 S. Pearl St., Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Winkler, John P., R. R. No. 5, Chehalis, Wash., Chinchillas, White New Zealands, Giant
Winters, Guy T., 914-13th St., South Bellingham, Wash., Chinchillas, Havanas.
Woods, V. K., Mrs., R. F. D., No. 6, Spokane, Wash. American Blues, Flemish Giants. Wise, J. E., 3015 Peabody St., Bellingham, Wash.
Wyatt, I. J., 718 S. 8th St., Yakima, Wash.
Wyman, Mrs. E. H., 404 N. 4th, Mt. Vernon, Wash., Chinchillas.
Yaden, B. W., R. No. 7, Yakima, Wash., Chinchillas.
Yortg, W. E., 1709 34th St., S. Bellingham, Wash., New Zealands.
Zoet, Lambert, Lynden, Wash., White, Steel and Gray Flemish.
Zurflut, Arthur P., R. No. 4, Box 48, Tacoma, Wash., Chinchillas and New Zealand Whites.
Estler, W. S., Barboursville, W. Va.
Fulks, W. H., 1115-3rd St., Huntington, W. Va.
Graham, A. L., Box 105, Kingston, W. Va., Flemish Giants.
Johnson, Mrs. R. W. Philippi, W. Va., New Zealands.
Lakin, Cy., 1344 13th St., Huntington, W. Va.
Nichols, L. D., Harpers Ferry, W. Va., Rufus Red Belg. Hares. Patriquin, A., Cherry Run, W. Va.
Rhonemus, Burye, Garnet, W. Va., Flemish.
Riley, T. J., Box 385, Thorpe, W. Va.
Steele, H. E., Belington, W. Va., New Zealand Reds.
Webb, K. V., 356 Smith St., Huntington, W. Va.. Flemish Giants.
Alsted, Harold, Truesdell, Wis.
Bastain, Wm., 493 Monmouth St., Fond du Lac, Wis.
Becker, Wm., 262 High St., Fremont, Wis., English Cavies and Belgian Rabbits.
Braun, P. J., Sherwood, Wis.
Breuer & Son, Henry, 811 East, Fort Atkinson, Wis., Tanners and Manufacturers for Breeders.
Brockman, John J., 703 North Superior St., De Pere, Wis., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds.
Bronson, E. E., 194 Monroe Ave., Oshkosh, Wis., Chinchillas.
Brown & Brown, Pittsville, Wis.
Brown, Oscar, 1057 South Park Ave., Oshkosh, Wis.
Bruce, L. R., Pelican Lake, Wis.
Buss, Victor I., Rio, Wis.
Carpenter, Jas. W., Plymouth, Wis.
Carson, De Camp, Delta, Wis.
Clark, Frank, Packwaukee, Wis.
Cobus, Chas., R. 2, Box 21, Coleman, Wis., Chinchillas.
Dingle, Jas., R. R. 1, Box 298D, N. Milwaukee, Wis.
Duer, Dr. G. R., 1701 Main St., Marinette, Wis.
Dunbar, H., R. R. 1, Box 26, Oshkosh, Wis.
Dupuis, Ernest J., 1405 Monroe St., Madison, Wis., Chinchillas.
Eagle, Mrs. Paul, Box No. 66, Wautoma, Wis., New Zealand Reds.
Eninger, Keith J., Middle Inlet, Wis., Flemish Giants.
Everard, Felix, Custer St., R. No. 2, Manitowoc, Wis., Belgian Hares and Chinchillas. Falk, Wm. H., R. No. 2, Box 92, Marathon. Wis., Chinchillas.
Fenner, Walter H., Waldo, Wis., New Zealands.
Fraas, A. C., Whitewater, Wis., French Silvers, Havanas, B. Beverens.
Funk, M. P., 173 Davis St., Beaver Dam, Wis.
Gauthier, Earl, R. 4, Box 14, Manitowoc, Wis.
Geigel, A. D., 524 E. Greenwood Drive, Monroe, Wis.
Graham, T. J., 2122 Taylor Ave., Racine, Wis., Chinchillas.
Gustafson, D. E,, Box 150, Beloit, Wis., Chinchillas.
Hedberg, David, 1205 W. Commercial, Appleton, Wis., Chinchillas.
Henke, Frank, R. No. 1, Shiocton, Wis.
Henninger, Elmo, Markeson, Wis., Chinchillas.
Jackson, Ray, Parrish, Wis., Flemish Giants.
Johnson, James L., Random Lake, Wis.
Kees, N. F., Hilbert, Wis.
Keill, Wesley, 77 Russell St., Marinette, Wis., Lapco Strain.
Klug, R. W., Reedsville, Wis.
Koenig, J. L., 1625 State St., Racine, Wis., Chinchillas.
Kohn, E. H., Gillett, Wis., Chinchillas.
Krull, Wm., R. R. 1, Clintonville, Wis., Cavies, Havanas.
Lamoureux, A., Rt. No. 1, Comstock, Wis., New Zealands.
Lee, Russell C., R. F. D. No. 23, Omro, Wis., New Zealand Reds.
Lemmer Fox & Fur Co., Le Marathon, Wis.
Longrie, Chas., 2920 E. 4th St., Superior, Wis., Chinchillas.
Lorier, Edw., 1406 S. 8th St., Sheboygan, Wis., Chinchillas.
Lyons, Lafayette D., 2521 S. 13th Pl.. La Crosse, Wis.
Mangold, Geo., Box 248, Burlington, Wis., Chinchillas.
Mathews, W. L., No. Chestnut St., Burlington, Wis.
Mattog, Emil, 1628 Armstrong, Marinette, Wis., Belgian Hares.
McClellan, Wm. B., 2402 Wells St., Apt. No. 1, Milwaukee, Wis.
McMillan, Allie, R. R. 1, Box 81, Embarrass, Wis., Chinchillas, Havanas.
Melhorn, Dan., 1109 S. 26th St., Manitowoc, Wis., Chinchillas, Havanas.
Moore, Jessie T., R. R. 1, Box 92, Barron, Wis., Chinchillas, Flemish, New Zealands, and Cavies.
Mueller, Ernest, Box 374, New Glarus, Wis., Chinchillas.
Myreen, Alfred, Port Wing, Wis.
Nabor, A. W., R. F. D. No. 8, Box 33, Chippewa Falls, Wis., Chinchillas, Foxes, and Raccoons.
Nelson, Leo, R. F. D. Box 1, Bayfield, Wis., Chinchillas, Havanas, Beverens.
Nelson, Sam R., 709 Hancock St., Manitowoc, Wis., Chinchillas.
Newman, Geo., Park Falls, Wis., Chinchillas.
Northwestern Rabbitry, Larsen & Koenig, 1625 State St., Racine, Wis., Chinchillas. O’Sullivan, W. B., Washburn, Wis.
Otto, Geo. C., 900 Grant Blvd., Milwaukee, Wis., New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Ouimett, C. H., Abbottsford, Wis., Chinchillas.
Ovans, James, R. F. D. No. 1, Abbotsford, Wis.
Parks, Faye A., 128 Avon St., New London, Wis., Chinchillas and Havanas.
Pauls, Chas. P., 410 Plumer St., Wausau, Wis.
Peacock, Harold, Cuba City, Wis.
Peterson, Andrew, 306 North Ave., Waupaca, Wis.
Peterson, Edward, R. R. 2, Box 79, Bruce, Wis., Chinchillas.
Phelps, C. O., 936 Broadway, De Pere, Wis., New Zealands.
Powers, Nellie E., 525 Algoma Blvd., Oshkosh, Wis.
Raess, John, Mineral Point, Wis., Flemish Giants.
Reedsville Rabbitry, Reedsville, Wis., Chinchillas and Foxes.
Rice, Miles, Milton, Wis.
Rotier, H., East Troy, Wis.
Scharbach, John C., P. O. Box 96, Reedsville, Wis.
Schettl, L. J., 1018 S. 10th St., Manitowoc, Wis.
Schindeholz, O. J., 227 E. Loos St., Hartford, Wis.
Searl, Lloyd, Wild Rose, Wis., Chinchillas and Cavies.
Senty, Floyd, Elroy, Wis.
Smith, Walter, Durand, Wis.
Sommer, L. E., Neenah, Wis.
Starry, J. W., Oregon, Wis., New Zealands.
Stofen, H. H., 1822 N. Main St., Racine, Wis.
Stury, Rev. A., R. R. 2, Fort Atkinson, Wis., Flemish, Chinchillas.
Tesch, Alfred, Pine River, Wis., Chinchillas.
Tfeligensten, Henry G., 540 Maple St., Neenah, Wis., Chinchillas.
Tompkins, J. H., Tunnel City, Wis.
Trierweiler, Buddy, 405 W. 6th St., Marshfield, Wis.
Vetter, Henry E., P. O., Valders, Wis.
Villard, Leon, Bryant, Wis., New Zealand Reds.
Welling, Casper, Peebles, Wis., Chinchillas.
Wendtland, A., Dale, Wis.
Wiesner, Albert, R. 4, Box 8, Manitowoc, Wis.
Witt, A. L., Greenwood, Wis., Chinchillas.
Witt, Fred T., R, F. D. No. 1, Box 106, Clintonville, Wis., Rabbits and Cavies.
Wolf, Joe, 1124 23rd St., Milwaukee, Wis., Rufus Red Belgian Hares.
Wydner, Roy, Sheboygan Falls, Wis.
Zentner, Werner L., New Glarus, Wis.
Baker, Fred, Box 1040, Thremopolis, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Beal, Dr. D. O., Afton, Wyo.
Best, Clarence A., 606 Broadway, Sheridan, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Billings, Glen, Ishawooa, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Buck, James, Box 871, Kemmerer, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Buck, Leonard, Box 866, Kemmerer, Wyo., Flemish Giants.
Burton, C. F., Afton, Wyo.
Cale, Jas., Eighth Route, Gillette, Wyo.
Case, Mrs. C. M., Dwyer, Wyo., Chinchillas, S. C. White Leghorns.
Christianson, Ole, Afton, Wyo.
Clark, C. J., P. O. Box 1615, Casper, Wyo.
Cole, C. V., Box 211, Midwest, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Cummings, F. T., Box 12, Douglas, Wyo.
Dadisman, Prof. S. H., Division of Agricultural Education, University of Wyoming, Laramie, Wyo.
Fedor & Co., Geo., Frontier, Wyo.
Gibbs, Frank, Rex, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Goble, R. D., Wyoming Rabbitry, 1511 S. Cedar St., Casper, Wyo.
Hackert, Frank H., Buffalo, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Hackert, John N., Klondike Ranch, Buffalo, Wyo.
Hamilton, Mrs. A. G., Box 981, Thermopolis, Wyo.
Harlow, Otto F., Basler, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Hoen, Wade, Box 276, Evonston, Wyo., White New Zealands, French Silvers, Chinchillas.
Silver and Cross Foxes.
Hunton, J. C., Guernsey, Wyo.
Johnson, Elias, Lovell, Wyo.
Johnsen, Dr. L. D., American Theatre Bldg., Casper, Wyo.
Jones, T. O., 660 N. 5th St., Laramie, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Kaufman, Mrs. S. R., Ishawooa, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Kear, Jesse J., P. O. Box 339, Casper, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Larsen, Lawrence P., Tullis, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Lundy, Robert, Wilson, Wyo.
Maring, P. J., 807 S. 1st St., Laramie, Wyo., Chinchillas.
McCarty, Dan, Osage, Wyo.
McGrew & Weybright, P. O. Box 487, Wheatland, Wyo., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants. Noland, B. H., 1354 S. Jackson St., Casper, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Patterson, Joe, 333 Ridge Ave., Rock Springs, Wyo.
Phifer, Fred W., Wheatland, Wyo.
Shireman, E. G., Box 104, Story, Wyo., Chinchillas, Silver Foxes.
Viner, Frank, Sr., 915 Lewis St., Laramie, Wyo.
Wyoming Fur Breeders Association, R. D. Goble, Secretary, 129 S. Kenwood St., Casper Wyo.
Too Late to Classify
Abelson, Burgess, 613 N. 3rd St., New Zealands.
Ableson, Geo. C., 110 S. 1st St., Arkansas City, Kans.
Accord, Frances, P. O. Box 605, Centralia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Adams Fur Farm Co., Fremont, Neb.
Adelman, Rev. L. M,, Sanborn, Minn.
Agodorny, John, 5197 Campbell Ave., Detroit, Mich.
Alexander, Harry A., Burwood Park, Beloit, Wis., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Anderson, Frank C., 1834 S. Crescent St., Independence, Mo.
Anderson, Ray, 538 Maple St., Pendleton, Ore., Chinchillas.
Andretta, A. S., Lovely St., Unionville, Conn.
Armstrong, G. P., 4152 Park Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.
Arnold, John T., Parkdale and Rochester Rd., Royal Oak, Mich., New Zealand Reds. Associated Rabbit & Fur Producers, 3328 48th Ave., Minneapolis, Minn., Chinchillas, Havanas.
Atlasta Rabbitry, Geo. P. Knight-Mrs. R. W. McGee, Ysleta, Texas.
Averett, W. F., Shreveport, La., Rt. 4, Box 169-F.
Antisdel, Earl, Sagle, Idaho, Chinchillas and Black Silver Giants.
Bailey, Mrs. W. D., Mountain Home, Idaho, Box 56.
Ball, W. C., Newton, Kans., Chinchillas.
Bartel, C. T., River Grove, Ill., Chinchillas.
Bashor, J. S., Dayton, Wash.
Bates, Dr. B. J., Omaha, Neb., 515 S. 25th Ave.
Bankoski, Jos., Rt. 3, Hinsdale, Ill.
Barric, Millie, Hileah, Fla., 265 N. E. 7th St.
Bawden, Dr. G. S., American Theatre Bldg., Casper, Wyo.
Bernier, Frank O., Danielson, Conn., 76 S. Main St.
Blevens, Frank, 1412 Federal St., Kansas City, Kans.
Belknap & Sherard, R. 10, Rockford, Ill., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants.
Belavic, Micheal, 53 Kleinman Rd., Highland, Ind., Chinchillas and American Checkered Giants.
Belmont Caviary, Fred. C. Kruelle, 4515 Belmont Ave., Baltimore, Md.
Bell, Fred E., 69 Salem St., Hillsdale, Mich.
Bell, W. W., R. R. "A,” Terre Haute, Ind., Chinchillas.
Best, C. E., Granada, San Fernando, Calif. New Zealand Whites.
Beste, Dr. A. L., R. 5, Bellevue Rd., Omaha, Neb.
Burgess, W. G., R. 7, Box 719, Springfield, Mo., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds. Beardslee, Henry, 2171 St. James Parkway, Cleveland, Ohio.
Beale, Dr. A. G., 950 Falmouth Rd., Victoria, B. C., Canada, White Flemish.
Beebe, J. E., Elwood, Ind.
Bent, C. N., 1524 N. 40th St., Omaha, Neb., Chinchillas.
Benninger, Geo., 3045 S. Delaware St., Englewood, Colo., Chinchillas and White Flemish. Berhow, Seward, R. 4, Ames, Iowa.
Bienfang, John, 325 S. C, Arkansas City, Kans.
Bierman, Chas. A., 506 Division St., Northfield, Minn., Chinchillas.
Bieman, J. H., Denver, Iowa, Chinchillas.
Bingham, K. J., 158 Union St. Hillsdale, Mich.
Bleech, C. W., North Adams, Mich., Champagne De Argents, Cavies.
Boerman, Gerritt, Modesto, Calif.
Bugenhagen, Eliza, Magnet, Neb., New Zealand Reds.
Burbank, Geo. W., R. No. 2, Wayzata, Minn.
Burke, Lew, Main St., Antioch, Ill., Chinchillas.
Burnham, Arthur A., Concord Rd., Billerica, Mass., Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds Butler, Mrs. C. V., Station F, Box 23, New Orleans, La., Giants and Angoras.
Bunning, H. J., Midwest, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Butler, Mrs. Pearl, Rexall Drug Store, Oilton, Okla.
Blough, Rosa C., R. 3, Box 159, Johnstown, Pa.
Boerman, Gerrit, R. D. Box 187, Modesto, Calif.
Boot, F. H., 2502 Smith St., Huntington, W. Va.
Bosworth, Ottis B., Wood St., Pottersville, Mass., New Zealands.
Bowers, J. Denton, 19 Park Ave., Westminster, Md., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants. Boyd, Mrs. Jos. M., R. R. No. 1, Dry Branch, Ga., Chinchillas.
Brewer, R. J., 730 W. 12th St., Dallas, Texas, Chinchillas and Reds.
Breuer & Son Henry, 4th and Janesville, Ft. Atkinson.
Brittle, Robert L., 231 Grand Ave., Bellflower, Calif., White New Zealands.
Briggs, Leon W., 15252 Lappin Ave., Detroit, Mich., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds, and White Flemish.
Brown, Mrs. C. M., Buffalo, W. Va., Chinchillas.
Brown, Karl Roy, R. R. Box 115, N. Topeka, Kans.
Brown, R. V., R. R. 9, Rockford, Ill., Chinchillas.
Brown, Walter L., 1508 N. 8th, Arkansas City, Kans.
Calouri, Wm. J., Box 154, R. 8, Minneapolis, Minn.
Cameron, D. F., Casper, Wyo., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds.
Campbell, J. W., Deshler, Ohio.
Cantrell, W. E., 1719 E. 13th St., Oklahoma City, Okla.
Cathcart, N. W„ 906 Tampa St., Tampa, Fla.
Card, Phillips, Logan, Iowa.
Carfield, Geo., Box 225, Otis, Colo.
Carpenter, Geo. M., 1309 W. Baltimore St., Chinchillas.
Casady, Elmer, 1126 N. Dearborn St., Indianapolis, Ind., New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas. Casbeer, Mrs. Etta, Edgerton, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Central States Rabbitry, New Castle, Ind., Chinchillas.
Clark, J., Ottawa, Ont., Canada, Chinchillas, Muskrats and Raccoons.
Center, W. F., 1043 Lincolnway West, South Bend, Ind., Chinchillas, White New Zealands.
Central Kansas Poultry & Rabbit Farm, R. R. No. 5, Salina, Kans.
Cejka, E. M., 125 Birch St., Iron Mountain, Mich.
Christofferson, J., Meadow, Va., New Zealands.
Colgin, C. G., 531 W. 9th St., Casper, Wyo., Chinchillas and White New Zealands.
Colyer, W., 1324 Hays Park Ave., Kalamazoo, Mich.
Combe, Woodson, Bonnyman, Ky., New Zealands.
Conser, Mrs, E. H., 914 S. 3rd, Arkansas City, Kans.
Connor, A. G., Box 1454, Casper, Wyo.
Courtney, John E., R. F. D. No. 3, Independence, Mo.
Cordry, F. R., R. F. D. 2, Preston, Kans.
Clausen, Louie, San Joaquin, Calif., Chinchillas.
Clapsadle, Walter M., Box 205, St. Clair Ave., E. Liverpool, Ohio.
Curfman, Guy L., 900 N. A, Arkansas City, Kans.
Gusick, F. A., R. R. No. 1, Kalispell, Mont.
Cook, A. E., Pratt, Kans.
Cox, Geo. N., R. R. No. 2, Roseville, Ill.
Cozzo, John A., 1037 Doute, New Orleans, La., Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites, F. S. Crado, H. H., Allen, Mich.
Cruse, Otis, Wood River, Ill., Chinchillas.
Croly, A. G., 670 Federal Blvd., Denver, Colo.
Gross, G. B., Whitmore Lake, Mich.
Dahl, Norman, Box 283, Rock Valley, Iowa.
Danforth & Taylor, Inver Grove, Minn., Box 93.
Daily, Mrs. C. R., 937 N. Lincoln St., Casper, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Day, Chas. Everett, Bernardston, Inglewood, Mass.
David, Arthur W. 19 Woodlawn Ave., Valley Stream, N. Y.
Davidson, Walter H., 1643 Lula Ave., Wichita, Kans., English Cavies.
Davis, L. Irby, Harlingen, Texas.
Deatrich, C. R., Maugansville, Md., Flemish Giants.

Demmons, Herbert L., Canyon Ferry Route, Helena, Mont.
Dias, Luis L., 369 Main St., Fair Haven, Mass.
Dildine, John W., 846 Campbell Ave., Columbus, Ohio.
Dopheide, Bernhard J., 1127 N. 11th St., Quincy, Ill., Chinchillas.
Donald, Earl Pierce. Philadelphia, Miss.
Donaldson, O. W., Milford, Iowa, Chinchillas.
Dowd, Lester G., Iron Mountain, Mich.
Doom, C., 854 Montrose Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Dreis, J. J., 1201 3rd St. N. E., Minneapolis, Minn.
Dudley, Lester, L. Presque Isle, Maine.
Durling, N. V., R. F. D., Jasper, Mich.
Eames, Mrs. Minnie, Canyon Ferry Route, Helena, Mont.
Ecklund, Oscar, LaMollie, Ill., Chinchillas.
Ekstrand, Adolph, 216 W. Brown St., Iron Mountain, Mich.
Ellerman, Fred, 122 N. Dodge St., Wichita, Kans.
Elsey, Jack, 850 F Ave., Coronado, Calif., White Flemish Giants.
Ellis, L. E., Moose Lake, Minn., Chinchillas.
Ellis, Paul W., Salem, Ore., Chinchillas.
Erikson Iver J., 480 Burncoat St., Worcester, Mass.
Eyres, C. J., R. No. 2, Le Mars, Iowa, Flemish Giants.
Falk, Harry, 1011 S. Pine St., Grand Island, Neb., New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas. Fanando, John, St. Paul, Minn., Chinchillas and White Flemish.
Farrow, T. G., S. Peacham, Vt.
Fairbanks, Ervon, 2222 Lake St.. Salt Lake, Utah.
Fearing, Ted, Almena, Kans., Chinchillas.
Fellows, Samuel Walter, 499 Main St., Dexter, Me.
Ferguson, J. D., 2003 Hays St., Wichita Falls, Texas.
Ferris, Frank C., Huntley, Ill.. Chinchillas.
Fiedler, Louis, R. F. D. No. 3, Aurora, Ill.
Fish, E. M., Box 846, Boise, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Fisher, Mamie J., Box 266, Pulaski, Wis.
Fisher, E, P., R. 8, Box 407, Dallas, Texas.
Fleming, T. J., White Bluff Rd., Savannah, Ga.
Foreman, Jack Medora, Kans., Chinchillas.
Ford, Leo A., Fayette, Ohio, White Flemish.
Fowler, Raymond J., 207 W. Hamilton Ave., Tampa, Fla., White Flemish.
Franklin, R. M., 7324 Sycamore St., New Orleans, La., Chinchillas.
Franklin, Frank J., Box 16, R. 1, Irons, Mich.
Fredrickson, Harold C., 679 Public, Providence, R. I., New Zealand Reds.
Fricke, Robt. E., 7239 Princeton Ave., Chicago, Ill., Chinchillas.
Friend, R. D., 918 30th St., Sioux City, Iowa, Chinchillas and White New Zealands. Friskel, John C., Frontenac, Kans.
Fuller, Darwin F., Mankato, Minn.
Fuller, Harry, Monticello, Iowa, Stahl’s Golden Standard and Giant Chinchillas, Exclusively.
Gatschet, Eugene, 1003 Struble Ave. N. E., Canton, Ohio, American Blues and Flemish Giants.
Gaylord, W. R., 123 E. Main St., Medford, Ore.
Genetti, F., R. D. No. 2, Mt. Lafee, Pottsville, Pa.
Gerth, Walter G., R. No. 1, Bensenville, Ill.
Gesell, Harvey E., South Lima, N. Y.
Glunk, H. A., 4918 Loyola, New Orleans, La., Chinchillas and While Flemish.
Gobel, F. A., 440 Roosevelt Ave., Redwood City, Calif.
Goddard, Frank M., Delta, Colo.
Gove, S. D., D. D. S., 3900 La Parkway, New Orleans, La., Chinchillas.
Gorzinski, Leo, R. L, Box 46, Powers, Mich.
Gray, J. Howard, Copper Hill, Va.
Groth, J. P., R. 8, Box 465, Dallas, Texas.
Grover, Danna A., R. D. No. 3, West Paris, Me., Flemish Giants and Chinchillas.
Gilbert, W. Earle, Bigfork, Mont., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds and Whites.
Ginn. James B., Bayard, Neb., Chinchillas.
Gustin, Lester C., Arlington Heights, Mass., 30 Cliff St.
Hadley, H. O., Leban, Mo. Chinchillas.
Hagas, Arno J., R. F. D. No. 17 St., New Ipswich, N. H., Flemish.
Hagerman, R. N., Maugansville, Md., New Zealand Reds.
Hall, Mrs. V. R., R. R. No. 3, Rupert, Ida.
Hardcastle, H., 422 N. Canton St., Mexia, Texas.
Harsen, H. N., R. F. D. No. 1, Minneapolis, Minn.
Harris, J. A., 320 Second St., Macon, Ga.
Hart, Alex S., Battle Lake, Minn., Chinchillas.
Hanner, Lester, Main St., Oakland, Ill.
Hass, George, Camanche, Iowa.
Haskell, Frank, Biwick Ave. 5370, Detroit, Mich.
Hefferman, Cornelius, Keen Place, Unionville, Conn., New Zealand Reds.
Heinze, Albert J., Hayden Rowe St., Hopkinton, Mass., New Zealand Reds.
Henning, Carl O., 408 Grove St., Norfolk, Neb.
Herman, Walter, 241 Cedar St., Oshkosh, Wis.
Herrin, Merton, Leslie and Lynden Sts., Helena, Mont., Chinchillas.
Hill, Henry Hotchkiss, Colo.
Hinckley, M. M., 413 Pleasant St., Hudson, Mich., Flemish.
Hindu, Aaron E., Weston, Mich., Chinchillas.
Holch, S. R., Gilman, Ill.
Holmes, J. C., Holmes Park, Mo.
Horner, Carroll W., 2345 E. Manoa Rd., Honolulu. T. H.
Hoster, Marvin, 17 Elston Ave., Bentwood, Pittsburgh, Various Breeds.
House. F. L., 460 Kansas City Rd.. Olathe. Kans.
Huston, John R., 823 N. 3rd, Arkansas City, Kans., New Zealands.
Hudman, E. E., and J. R. Smith, Soulsbyville, Calif.
Hudson, Miller, Megarge 1, Texas,
Isaac, Albert E., Fond Du Lac, Wis., Silver Foxes, Chinchillas, Mink, Black Muskrats. Jensen, Dr. W. D., Grant, Neb., Chinchillas.
Jewett, F. F., Box 81, Smithville, Mo.. Chinchillas.
Jones, Carrol S., 156 N. Ridge Ave., Idaho Falls, Ida.
Jones, Harry R., Box 245, Soda Springs. Ida.
Jones, W. E„ 1432 E 2nd St., Casper, Wyo., American Blues.
Johnson, Rolland G., Hereford, Pa.
Jordan, W. H., Box 253, Caldwell, Ida.
Jordan, E. Ross, 114 Rogers Ave., Macon, Ga., While Beverens and Chinchillas.
Jenks, A, S., Auburn, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Johnson, Louis P., R. 2, Box 57, Owatonna, Minn.
Johnson, Stanton, Box 345, Northfield, Minn., Chinchillas.
Jungnickle, Chas., Elk River, Minn., Chinchillas.
Kaagus, Ernest G., R. F. D. No. 3, Box 21. Oshkosh. Wis.
Kaufholdt, L., Jr., R. 1, Box 46, Crystal Lake, Ill., New Zealand Whites.
Kay, Phillip, Salt Creek, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Keen, Herbert L., 915 S, 1st, Arkansas City, Kans.
Keller, Clint J., 922 S. B St., Arkansas City, Kans., Chinchillas.
Kellogg, H. H., 340 W. Jackson, Monmouth, Ore.
Keyes, Lester F.. 172 Maholm St., Newark, Ohio.
King, E. L., 26th and Merriman Rd.. Kansas City, Kans.
Kirkham, T. P., Box 223, Cleburne, Texas.
Kittinger, Stewart, 82 E. State, Lehi, Utah.
Kloeckner, Joseph M., R. F. D. No. 7, Box 88, Fond Du Lac, Wis., Flemish Giants. Kolodji, S. A., R. No. 1, Box 77, Clarissa, Minn., Chinchillas.
Koncz. John, R. 2, Kansas City, Mo.
Kossin, A., 1051 N. Marshfield Ave., Chicago, Ill. After May 1st, Milwaukee, Wis. Kronlage, Chas. A., 7527 Maple St., New Orleans. La.. Chinchillas.
Lamantia & Brand Farms, 8437 Panola St., New Orleans, La.
Lansing, Robert, Moose Lake, Minn., New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas.
Larkin, W. R., Grace, Ida., Chinchillas.
Latimer, Walter, Woodinville. Wash.
LaPointe, Archie, R. F. D. No. 2, Box 15, Sabuttus, Me., New Zealand Reds.
Lee, Elmer, 205 S. Athenians Ave., Wichita, Kans., Chinchillas.
Ledger, Lester and Grace, Howard City, Mich.
Le Flash, Denver, Kettle River, Minn., Chinchillas.
LeLand, Roy F., 1036 College Ave., Adrian. Mich,
Lehing, Dan W., 402 Watching Ave., Plainfield, N. J.
Leighton, V. V., Yates Center, Kans.
Lemieux, Wm. J., 118 Healey Ave., Indian Orchard, Mass., Chinchillas.
Lewis, Clifford C., 811 Vine St., Lansing, Mich.
Leupke, Herman, Waconia, Minn.
Little, Henry, 1546 8th Ave. Drive, Bradenton, Fla., White Flemish.
Lother, P. H., R. 1, Scammon, Kans.
London Rabbit Farm, Box 222, London, Ky.
Long, J. G., Summitville, Ind,
Lieske, H. G., Fairwater Wis., Chinchillas and Giants.
Luther, Henry H., 830 Sixth Aye., St. Petersburg, Fla.
McClellen, John, Jr., 1128 S. Lincoln St., Casper, Wyo.
McCullough. H. D., 1412 Alpha Ave., Des Moines, Iowa.
McClinton, R„ 542 W. Poplar St., Springfield, Mo, Chinchillas.
McDaniel, A. W., 821 Park Ave., Franklin. Ind,
McDaniel, Wm. Fred, 1415 E. Pierce St., Macomb, Ill.
McDonall, Frank, R. 4, Kalispell, Mont.
McDole, Mrs. R. A., Sagle, Ida., New Zealand Whites, Chinchillas,
McFadden, Myrtle, Box 224, Pratt, Kans.
McGuire, T. R., Northfield, Minn., Chinchillas.
McGuffin, C. C. and R. E., 2435 LaFayette St., Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds and Whites. McKenzie, G. F., Box 971, Fall River, Mass.
McKiver, J. R„ 575 Howard St.. Los Alamitos, Calif.
McLimont, A. W., 803 Electric Railway Chambers, Winnipeg, Canada, Chinchillas. McMurtry, H. G., 1305 Kansas Ave., Topeka, Kans.
McRae, O. F., McRae, Ga.
Mack, Irvin M., Muir, Pa.
Macket, Anthony J., 4817 Baudire, New Orleans, La., Chinchillas.
Mahler, Herman F., Hahn’s Peak. Colo.
Masters, G. W., 408 Yuma St., Manhattan, Kans.
Malone, Albert E., Box 254, Sta. A, E. Liverpool, Ohio.
Malone, Berl, N. 7th St., Chariton, Iowa.
Malkowski, Stanley, Oshtemo, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Mansell, Allen, Hampton, Iowa, Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds.
Markey, J. J., 4030 S. 24th St., S. Omaha, Neb., Chinchillas.
Markle, Clarence C., Box 143, Summerville, Pa.
Martyn, E., R. 4, Boise, Ida., New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas.
Mason, Orien D., R, 1, Wilder, Ida,
Matthius, J. P., Vienna, Va.
Maxwell, R. C., Sanford, Fla., Chinchillas.
Mawby, Fred J., R. F. D. No. 1, Bay Shore, Mich., Chinchillas.
Mease, O. A., 916 Washington Ave, Northampton, Pa.
Meeker, H. W., 608 N. 4th Ave., Arkansas City, Kans.
Meier & Soltau, Bangor, Wis.
Mehlaff, John E, D. D. S., Eureka, S. Dak., Chinchillas.
Meredith, W. C., 2116 73rd Ave., Oakland, Calif.
Metcalf & Sons, W. E., 1403 Walnut St., Huntington, Ind., Flemish Giants, New Zealand
Merrick, W. H., Weir, Kans.
Mertens, James, North Star, Mich., Flemish, New Zealands, Silver Fox, Champ. Blues, White Cavies.
Mettler Bros., Jefferson St., Box 124, Evans City, Pa., Chinchillas.
Milan Fur Farm, Milan, Mich., Flemish Giants, Chinchillas, and Havanas.
Mitchell, A. N„ Groveland, Ill.
Mitchell, Miss Bobbie, R. F. D. No. 1, Rochester, Vt.
Miller Rabbitry, 1469 E. 66th St. Terrace, Kansas City, Mo.
Miller, Carlos D., 978 W. 1st N., Provo, Utah, Flemish Giants, Chinchillas.
Miller, Gilbert L, Atchee, Colo., Flemish.
Miller, Harvey Henry, R. R. No. 1, Elkhart, Ind.
Miller, Ira M., 217 Summit Ave., Galion, Ohio, Light Gray and Steel Gray and White Flemish.
Miner, M. F., 1103 N. Rutlege, Springfield, Ill., Flemish.
Mohler, L. E., Wayne, Mich., Chinchillas.
Moore, E. A., Allen, Mich., Chinchillas and Cavies.
Moyle, Edwin, Box 257, Casper, Wyo.
Montgomery, Gillard S., 421 S. Market, Emporia, Kans., Chinchillas.
Morris, Mrs. Albert, Cozad, Neb.
Morrison, I. W., 1406 Stella Ave., Dallas, Texas.
Murphy, H. A., 516 E. Schley, Aberdeen, Wash., New Zealand Reds, American Blues. Murphy, P. E., 424 Millandon, New Orleans, La., Chinchillas.
Myers, Orley V., Winona, Minn.
Newmeyer, Paul L., 2380 Washington Ave., Ogden, Utah, Chinchillas and Flemish. Meuler, Reuben, R. 3, Box 11, Oshkosh, Wis., Chinchillas.
Nelson, N. H., Omaha, Neb.
Niemann, Fred, 134 E. 38th St, Minneapolis, Minn, Chinchillas.
Norall, Lee, Overton, Neb, Chinchillas.
Oblinger, A. C. Pennville, Ind.
O’Donnall, Fred, 4215 Fountain Blue Drive, New Orleans, La, Chinchillas.
Oliver, D, 1514 S. H, Arkansas City, Kans, New Zealand Reds, Flemish Giants, Chinchillas.
Oliver, John, Jr, Box 1463, Casper, Wyo, New Zealand Reds.
Oliveiler, J. E, Florin, Pa, Cavies.
Orange Rabbitry, Box 4, Winter Park, Fla.
Otto, E. L, Box 2, Freeport, Ill.
Overton, Richard R, 4119 David Ave, Sioux City, Iowa.
Packard, Frank S, Webster, N. Y.
Palmer, Chas. B, Bangs, Texas, Chinchillas.
Pannier, Ralph, R. F. D. No. 3, Box 108, Random Lake, Wis, Chinchillas.
Parks, S. A, Box 1146, Manatee. Fla, Flemish and Havanas.
Parr, A. A, 4916 Loyola, New Orleans, La, Chinchillas and White Flemish.
Peck, Clarence J, Sawyer, Mich, White Flemish Giants.
Peters, Ralph G, Hazard, Ky, New Zealands.
Pfundt, Rev. E, Holyrod, Kans.
Phillips, Geo. S, Box 471, Des Moines, Iowa.
Pierce, Leon F, 1134 College Ave, Adrian, Mich, Flemish, New Zealand Reds, Chinchillas, Whites and Blues.
Pitman, Donald P, Mansfield, Mass, 127 N. Main St.
Pinkerton, Ross, Merrifield Ave, Mishawaka, Ind, American Blues, H. W. Chinchillas, Black Siberians.
Poland, Earl, DuBoise, Neb, Chinchillas.
Pool, Ray, R. F. D. N. 2, Comstock, Neb.
Post, Harry B, Sergeantsville, N. J.
Powell, F. C, Wymore, Neb.
Pratt, Lawrence M, Gaysville, Vt.
Priebe, Rudolph, 4107 N. Marmora Ave, Chicago, Ill.
Prior, W. B, Buckeye Lake, Ohio, Flemish and New Zealand Reds.
Pritchett & Yeager, 417 Berkley Ave, Virginia Heights, Roanoke, Va.
Pierce, F. C, Bureau, Ill.
Prokes, Chas, 3600 S. Kedzie Ave. S, Chicago, Ill, Flemish Giants.
Pruitt, H. R, Fillmore, Ind, New Zealands and Flemish Giants.
Puchinsky, Benedict, Scitico, Conn, New Zealand Reds,
Pugh, Arthur, Clarence, Mo.
Puttman, Otto, Box 142, Hemburg, Iowa.
Quesada, Dr. Ernest Pujals y de, Santiago, Cuba.
Ray, J. C, 135 Cherry St, Barbarton, Ohio, Chinchillas.
Reed, Chas. L, Portland, Me, 14 Fernald St.
Rampke, M. A, 333 S. Elm St, Casper, Wyo.
Reading, Wm. W, R. No. 1, Rochester, Mich.
Reddick, D. T, R. 8, Tulsa, Okla, New Zealand Reds.
Reinke, Roy Wm, Forest Junction, Wis.
Renze, H. H., Hubbard, Neb., New Zealand Reds.
Reynolds, Frank O., Apt. R, 910 S. Carrollton, New Orleans, La.
Reynolds, Mrs. Frank O., Apt. R, 910 S. Carrollton, New Orleans, La., Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites and F. 8.
Rhodes, Jess, 26 S. Forrest St., Gilroy, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Richardson, L. J., Security Nat. Bank Bldg., Arkansas City, Kans.
Richard, Victor, 1874 2nd St., New Westminster, Canada, Blue Beverens, White Flemish. Richardson, Glen F., 2002 4th Ave., Council Bluffs, Iowa.
Riddle, Elton, 1051 Edina St., Dubuque, Iowa, Flemish Giants and Chinchillas, Cavies. Riggs, F. T., 11400 Spruce St., Lynwood, Calif., Chinchillas and Flemish.
Riley, H. B., Greenlawn Rabbitry, Ironton, Ohio, Flemish Giants and Dutch.
Ripple, Ray G., 609 W. Elm St., Salina, Kans., Flemish Giants.
Rivers, L. E., Box 425, Benkelman, Neb.
Rhinehart, Wm. A., Mohnton, Pa., Chinchillas.
Rishter, Eugene, 2023 Cleveland Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Robbins, Miss Louise, 95 Wood St., Middleboro, Mass., Flemish Giants.
Roby, D. B., 2208 Acton St., Berkeley, Calif.
Robinson, F. L., 1135 Bonnie Brae, Casper, Wyo.
Rognlie, H., 203 W. Woodbridge St., Detroit, Mich.
Ruprechr, Oscar, Drummond, Wis., Chinchillas.
Ruse, J. H., Box 548, Gladstone, Ore.
Russell, R. H., Fayette, Ohio, New Zealand Reds.
Samm, Les A., 211 W. Maryland St., Evansville, Ind.
Sargent, Chas. A., Miami, Fla.
Sattler, Geo. D., New Orleans, La., Chinchillas.
Schaeffer, Edward, Milan. Ill., Chinchillas.
Schafer, E. H., 741 W. Wayne St., Lima, Ohio.
Schleicher, Raymond, 1969 Glendale Ave., Bethlehem, Pa.
Schneider, Wm., Albany, Minn.
Scott, W. A., Glendive, Mont., Chinchillas.
Scritsmier, A. N., P. O. Box 971, Bradenton, Fla.
Scrogum, S. S., 301 Berkey Ave., Goshen, Ind., Chinchillas and Flemish Giants, Reds. Schuler, Martin H., Box 119A, R. 1, Glendale, Ariz., New Zealand Reds, Flemish Giants. Schierenberg, A., Box 906, Salt Creek, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Scovill Z. T., Turtle Lake, Wis.
Schmidt, John F., 138 E. Main St., Hornell, N. Y., American Blues.
Schmidt, Wm. F., Jr., Wyoming, Del.
Schultz, Louis H., Ripon, Wis., Chinchillas.
Schulte, Walter G., Box 1003, Houston, Texas, New Zealand Reds, Whites, Blues, Blacks, Rufus Reds, and H. W. Belgian Hares and Cavies.
Schultz, C. Earl, Nora Springs.
Schoonmaker, Mrs. Betty, "Pine Crest,” Rugby Hills, University, Va., Chinchillas. Schilling, Herman L., Box 305, Norfolk, Neb.
Sengbush, Howard G., 406 N. Orlando Ave., Hollywood, Calif., New Zealand Whites, American Blues and Whites.
Siegel, Harvey J., 3807 W. Liberty, Cincinnati, Ohio, Silver Fox Rabbits, Chinchillas. Sinnard, Mrs. Catherine, 999 Dayton St., Aurora, Colo.
Simpson, Emil, 622 Franklin Ave., Spooner, Wis., Chinchillas.
Sizer, F. M., Kable Station, Staunton, Va., Chinchillas.
Slayton, Lester G., 804 S. Chestnut St., Cameron, Mo.
Smith, E. C., S. Barnes St., Mason, Mich.
Smith, Wm. G., 352 N. Columbia St., Salina, Kans., English Cavies.
Smith, Chas. C., 915 S. 2nd St., Arkansas City, Kans.
Smith, E. B., 1108 Dimond, South Bend, Ind., White Flemish.
Smith, Frank I., 516 E. Hewitt Ave., Marquette, Mich.
Smith, Geo. C., 5942 Ada St., Chicago, Ill., Belgian Hares.
Smith, N. A., Rabbitry, Woodsboro, Md., Flemish Giants.
Smith, J. W., 3534 Decatur St., Denver, Colo., Chinchillas.
Smith, Laurence, Kalispell, Mont., Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds.
Smith, Severence A., R. 8, Manchester, N. H., Chinchillas.
Solomon, P. B., Galesburg, Mich.
Southern Rabbit Farm, 1596 Woodbine Ave., Atlanta, Ga.t Chinchillas and Flemish. Solterman, Chas., 639 E. 12th St., Casper, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Spence, Wm. J., Catham, Columbia Co., N. Y.
Spires, Daniel, R. 1, Shawnee, Ohio, Flemish Giants.
Spielman, V. G.. Colby, Kans.
Spore, Mrs. L. E., Paonia, Colo., Angoras.
Sprecher, Paul C., 2024 N. 68th St., Omaha, Neb., Chinchillas.
Sprester, C. F., 1012 Fillmore St., Blackriver Falls, Wis.
Starks, W. F., 3537 W. 38th Ave., Denver, Colo.
Steib, Rudolph, 360 Van Buren St., Warsaw, Ill.
Stewart, Mrs. Kirk, Alberta, Harleck, Canada, Chinchillas.
Stephens, E. A., Pres., 1521 18th St., Denver, Colo.
Stevens, Seth O., 413 Alden Rd., Fairhaven, Mass., Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds.
Steinback, Dr. H., Norristown, Pa., Flemish.
Stillwell. C. L., 3385 S. Clarkson St., Englewood, Colo., New Zealand Reds.
Stoner, M., 1134 S. Seneca St., Wichita, Kans., Cavies.
Stevenson. W. H„ 39 Fountain Way, San Jose, Calif.
Stelzer, Harry, 2300 N. 18th St., Philadelphia, Pa.
Stichler Bros., Box 745, Buhl, Ida.
Stover, E. J., R. No. 4, Elkhart, Ind.
Strickler, Allen R., 1510 8. H St., Arkansas City, Kans.
Stebbins, W. B., White Bluff Rd., Savannah, Ga., Oneida Rabbitry.
Sturbaum, J. H., Illiff, Colo., New Zealand Reds, Flemish, and Chinchillas.
Snapp, Harley, Marshall, Minn.
Sun Rise Rabbitry, Milan, Mich., Flemish, Dutch, Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds, and Havanas.
Surrena, Perry, Columbine, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Summers, E., 310 W. Texas St., Denison, Texas.
Swenson, J. D., Firth, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Taylor, Fred W., 210 ½ Howard St., Hibbing, Minn., Chinchillas.
Taylor, Ivan, Litchfield, Mich., Chinchillas, Flemish Giants, and Cavies.
The Fairview Fur Farms, Inc., 304 Rogers Bldg., Jackson, Mich.
The Parsons Rabbitry, Springfield, Minn., Chinchillas.
Throop, Harold L., R. 6, Elkhart, Ind.
Thorfinnson, Olga I., Hallock, Minn., Flemish Giants.
Thoman Bros., 107 N. Front St., Manistique, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Thomas, Joseph R. Cayuga, N. Dak.
Thompson, E. H., 2309 Tangerine Ave., St. Petersburg, Fla., White Flemish and New Zealands.
Treasure Kennels, Flora Sumner, W. M. Kayser, Hawarden, Iowa.
Trimbel, A. E., 1508 S. Henderson St., Ft. Worth, Texas, Reds, Chinchillas, Havanas, American Blues and Whites.
Tiller, Jack, 1216 Ridgewood Ave., Orlando, Fla.
Timmons, P. A., 2508 Richmond Ave., Mattoon, Ill.
Tinley, Miss Ollie, 196 Laurel Ave., Macon, Ga., Chinchillas.
Toups, A. J., 4215 Fountain Blvd., New Orleans, La., Chinchillas.
Tolleson, T. E., 441 Langhorn St., Atlanta, Ga., Chinchillas,
Trine, Geo. F. & Sons, Hillsdale( Mich., Chinchillas.
Tucker, E. R., Tyrone, Texas Co., Okla., Chinchillas.
Tucker, Harold M., 1919 Cleveland, Caldwell, Ida., Chinchillas.
Turner Rabbitry, Inc., 12 Boylston St., Brookline, Mass.
Vandersall, D. R., Casper, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Valliere, Joseph C., 71 Federal St., Lynn, Mass.
Vaughn, Robt. W., Box 520, Ruston, La., Chinchillas.
VanAuken, Joe, Jr., Elk City, Okla., New Zealand Reds.
Van Horn, H. A., 1325 A Ave. E., Cedar Rapids, Iowa.
Van Trump, A. H., Salem, Iowa, Chinchillas.
Van Wormer, Arthur F., R. 9, Box 403, West Toledo, Ohio.
Wagner, A. J., Pine Tree Poultry Farm, Onamia, Minn.
Wahl, E. L., Box 612, Chickasha, Okla.
Wainwright, Geo. W., Wheeler Ave., Orange, Mass., Flemish Giants.
Walker, Claude T., 507 Waldrip St., Elma, Wash.
Walker, Mrs. Dora H., The Huntlot Farm, Benson, Vt.
Walker, Joseph S., 15414 Valerio St., Van Nuys, Calif.
Walter, H. R., Bowler, Wis., Chinchillas.
Walser, Clayton K., 504 S. Morgan St., Anna, Ill.
Walton, E. E. & Son, Petersburg, Ky., Chinchillas.
Warnock, Archie, R. F. D. 3, Amherst, Mass., Chinchillas.
Weaver, James, Haskell, Okla., Chinchillas.
Webb, W. R., Baker Lane, Amherst, Mass.
Webster, J. D., R. No. 50, Lansing, Mich.
Weisser, Geo., 124 Broadway St., Peoria, Ill., Flemish Giants.
Weldin, Herbert F., 916 Orange St., Wilmington, Del., Flemish Giants.
Weyhe, Dr. H. T., 2100 DuPont Ave. N., Minneapolis, Minn.
Wenzel, A. L., Box 59, Marinette, Wis.
West Coast Rabbitry, H. B. Dyer, Tampa, Fla.
Wheeler, Carson A., 933 S. 4th St., Flemish and Chinchillas.
White, Geo. F., Main St., Westford, Mass., Flemish Giants.
White, Geo. E„ Brook St., East Holliston, Mass., Chinchillas.
Wiese, G. A., 2139 Bourdon St., Muskegon, Mich.
Wibbell, J. R., Box 36, Harahan, New Orleans, La., Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites, French S.
Wilson, Robt., 1129 E. 2nd St., Casper, Wyo., Chinchillas.
Williams, E. R., 111 Minnesota Ave., Casper, Wyo., Several Varieties.
Winfield, C. F., 182 Sherman, Wabash, Ind., Flemish.
Winneguth, Leo, R. No. 3, Box 147, Mishawaka, Ind., Chinchillas, American Whites, Blues, Silver, Martin and Lilac.
Wood, Frank C., 30 Lennox St., Worcester, Mass., Chinchillas.
Wood, H. F„ Box 263, Duncan, Okla.
Wolf, Amos, R. 5, Box 115, Wichita, Kans.
Williams, B. C., 19 N. Myres St., Charlotte, N. C.
Wright, Ernest, 245 N. State St., Morriston, Fla., Flemish Giants.
Wyvall, Oscar, Longsville, Minn., Flemish.
Wyman, F. L., Gen. Del., Sulphur Springs Sta., Tampa, Fla.
Yates, Fred L., Box 150, Grand Junction, Colo., Chinchillas.
Young, Leroy, 29 Worth Ave., Hudson, N. Y.
Zahnow, John, 2232 Oakdale Ave., Chicago, Ill.
Zehr, B. L., State St., Pioneer, Ohio, Chinchillas and Flemish.
Zeringue, West, Wego, La., Chinchillas.
Zimmerman, Stanley M., Stilwell, Kans.
These standards were revised at our annual convention held at Tampa, Florida, February 1-5, 1928, and will be in effect until April 1, 1930. More consideration has been given to fur on various breeds and judges should bear this in mind when judging, as well as breeders when selecting individual specimens for exhibiting or breeding.
Lewis S. J. Griffin, chairman John C. Fehr Oscar Schultz
Lewis H. Salisbury George Hookway
Ed Corriu Ed Stahl
A. Weygandt
Adult—See senior.
Adult—As applied to fur color. A hair shaft possessing several bands of color, usually slate blue at the base, alternating with two or more light and dark rings, then lighter. For example, steel or grey Flemish, Chinchilla and Belgian Hares.
Back—In general; the entire hinder portion of the animal above the shoulders, belly and hips; extending from neck to tail. The area covered by the backbone or vertebrae.
Bare Spots—A section of the animal entirely denuded of fur.
Bell Ears—Ears which have large tips with distinct fall or lop. A disqualification.
Belly—The lower part of body containing the intestines—the abdomen.
Boil or Abscess—A hard swelling or isolated collection of pus or purulent matter occurring in the rabbit’s skin, accompanied by localized fever and heat. A disqualification, if at all prominent, if very small, a severe cut.
Bow Legs—Applied to both fore and hind legs. Bent like a bow at the kneejoint; curved outwardly in the middle. A disqualification.
Brace—An entry of two of the same breed and variety in competition.
Breed—A race or special class of domestic rabbits which reproduce distinctive characteristics of fur color, markings, and texture, shape, size and growth. A breed may be subdivided into varieties, as for example, the Black, Blue and Tortoise varieties of the Dutch breed.
Breeder—One who breeds or rears a special variety or varieties of rabbits in conformity with accepted standards of perfection or for the purpose of improving their commercial value.
Breeding Certificate—A written certificate by the owner of a stud buck, showing its pedigree in full, and the date of breeding to a particular doe; given for the purpose of making proof of the ancestry of the young.
Broken Ear—A distinct break in the cartilage which prevents erect ear carriage. A disqualification.
Buck—An unaltered male rabbit.
Buff—A rich golden orange with a creamy east.
Bull Dog—As applied to head: a short, broad, bold head of pronounced masculine appearance.
Caked Teats or Caked Udder—Inflamed and feverish condition of the teats arising from superabundant milk supply in a doe rabbit. Easily noted by the teats distended with hardened milk. A disqualification.
Capon—A castrated male rabbit.
Carriage—The mode in which a rabbit bears itself; the style or station of the animal.
Cheek—The sides of the face and the eyes.
Chest—The front portion of the body between the forelegs and neck— the breast or thorax.
Choppy—As applied to type—having the back and loins cut off abruptly and falling vertically to the tail; not having a gracefully arched back and loins.
Cobby—Stout and stocky; short legged and short coupled.
Cold—A slight attack of nasal catarrh or mild influenza in rabbits, characterized by sneezing; a thin watery nasal discharge, and slightly matted fur on the inside front feet. A disqualification. Remove from show room.
Condition—The physical state of a rabbit in reference to health; cleanliness, texture, and moult of fur, and grooming.
Creamy—Light yellow; the color of cream.
Cots or Cotted fur—Small particles or bunches of tangled or matted fur (or wool in Angoras). A severe cut.
Dead hairs—Similar in appearance to rusty hairs, produced by moulting.
Dewlap—A pendulous fold or folds of loose skin hanging from the throat.
Disqualify—One or more defects, deformities or blemishes which renders a rabbit unfit to win an award in competition or incapacitates it from taking part in an exhibition.
Disqualified—A rabbit found to possess a recognized disqualification.
Doe—An unspayed female rabbit.
Doe and Litter—A female rabbit with suckling young of her own bearing, not over two months of age.
Ear Canker—An inflamed, swollen, scabby condition of the lower inside ear of rabbits, caused by colonies of rabbit ear-mites. A disqualification. Remove from show room.
Ear-lacing—A black or dark colored line of fur outlining the sides and tips of the ear.
Faking—Any change in the external appearance of a rabbit on exhibition, with intent to deceive.
Fancier—One who breeds rabbits for the purpose of producing ideal specimens in conformity to a recognized standard of excellence.
Flabby—The condition of a rabbit when the flesh or fur hangs loosely on the animal by its own weight—not trim and shapely. A cut in scoring.
Flank—The sides of the rabbit between the ribs and hips, above the belly.
“Fly-back”—The short, rather stiff pelage of some breeds not developed especially for fur, as English Silvers.
Flying coat—A loose, fluffy coat of fur, caused by undue length and thinness of under wool and weak guard hairs. A fault in fur rabbits.
Foreign color—As applied to rabbits. Any color of fur, eyes, or nails differing from the prescribed standard of perfection for the breed and variety in question.
Foot—The final part of the leg, including the toes.
Forehead—The front part of the head between the eyes and base of
Glossy—The reflected luster of brightness from naturally healthy fur in rabbits—a natural sheen of the fur enhanced by grooming.
Guard hairs—The longer, stiffer hairs in the pelage or fur of a rabbit —easily noted upon blowing into the fur. Usually of different color than the under-wool, except in self breeds. The ideal length is 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 inches.
Hind quarters—The after portion or posterior section of the body, composed of loins, hips, hind legs and rump.
Hip—The thigh joint and large muscular first joint of the hind leg.
Hock—The middle joint or section of the hind leg between the foot and hip.
Hog fat—The condition of a rabbit obviously over-fattened, and consequently out of proportion to the true type of the breed. A cut in scoring.
Hump back—As applied to type—having a hump or protuberance on the back marring a gracefully arched outline.
Inner ear—The concave portion of the ear.
Junior—A rabbit under six months of age.
Kindle—To give birth to young rabbits.
Knee—The second joint of the leg—connecting the thigh and leg.
Knock-kneed—See Spraddled.
Loin—That portion of the back on either side above the hips and past the saddle.
Lopped ear—Pendulous; not carried erect; falling to the side or front. A disqualification if either one or both ears lop at a greater angle than 45 degrees, except in the lop breeds.
Luster—Brightness and brilliance of fur.
Mandolin—As applied to type, having the appearance of the body of a mandolin laid face down—back and saddle arching toward the loins to make noticeably large and broad hindquarters.
Massive—As applied to type. Bulky and heavy; ponderous; large and compact.
Mealy—Having the appearance of being powdered or sprinkled with meal.
Meaty—The quality of being able to carry a good proportion of meat in proportion to the size and type of a rabbit—a noticeable meatiness at the fore-quarters, back, saddle, loins and haunches.
Moult (Molt)—The act or process of shedding or changing the fur, usually three times yearly. The baby or nest fur is moulted at two months, and the first natural coat of fur is fully developed at four to six months.
Muzzle—The projecting portion of the head surrounding the mouth, nose and lower jaw.
Neck—That part of the animal connecting the head and body.
Nostrils—The two openings or apertures of the nose leading into the head.
Off-colored—Applied to several hairs or patches of fur foreign to the standard color of the animal—as white hairs in black rabbits or white patches of fur in American Blues.
Pair—A male and female rabbit of one variety.
Parasites—Rabbits occasionally harbor mange and ringworm mites, lice or fleas, but such parasites are very uncommon. The presence of any parasites disqualify. Remove from show room.
Patches—A small section of fur foreign to the color standard of the animal, such as white spots of fur on blacks, New Zealand Reds or American Blues. To disqualify such patches should be at least one-quarter inch in diameter.
Paunch—The prominent portion of the abdomen.
Pedigree—A correct written chart of the male and female ancestors of a rabbit, showing the date of birth; ownership of dam and the parents, grand-parents and great-grand-parents of the specimen in question.
Pelage—The fur coat or covering of an animal, as in rabbits.
Pepper and salt—A flat, unattractive appearance of black and white ticking, as in Chinchillas. Caused by lack of contrast and waviness; and in ticking and weakness of color in the tips of guard hairs.
Pot Belly—A distended condition of the stomach and intestines caused by improper food, usually found in young rabbits. A disqualification.
Poor Coat—Fur not in good condition through moulting, rust or ill-health of the animal. Also caused by inattention to grooming.
Rabbit—A domesticated rodent of the genus Oryctolagus Cuniculus.
Racy—As applied to type—slim, trim, alert and active. Slender in body and legs—harelike.
Ribs—The curved portions of the sides immediately back of the shoulders above the belly.
Rump—The hinder portion of the back and back-bone.
Rust—A reddish-brown coloration of fur, usually appearing on the sides, flanks or feet of rabbits, having the appearance of iron rust and being foreign to the standard color. Rust usually appears in American Blues, Blacks, Havanas and Lilacs, and may be caused by fading through over-exposure to the sunlight, dirty hutches, or dead hairs about to moult.
Saddle—The rounded, intermediate portion of the back between shoulder and loin.
Sandy—Light yellowish brown; the color of sand, as in sand-grey Flemish Giants.
Screw-tail—See wry-tail.
Self or self-colored—Animals of the same colored fur over the entire head, legs, body and tail. Solid colored.
Senior—A rabbit six months of age or older.
Shadow-bars—Weakness of self-color in the fur of both fore and hind feet, appearing in the form of white or lighter colored bars running across the feet, and acting as a severe cut or penalty in scoring. Occurs more often in the agouti breeds than in seifs.
Shoulder—The uppermost joint of the foreleg, connecting it with the body.
Silvered—Having the appearance of silvery sheen or luster—an abundance of silver-white or silver tipped guard hairs interspersed through the fur so as to produce a lustrous silvery appearance.
Slobbers—Indigestion or gastritis, usually found in young rabbits, caused by improper feeding. Indicated by drooling mouth and wet fur on lower jaw and forelegs. A disqualification. Not contagious.
Snipey—As applied to head—narrow and elongated, with an appearance of undue leanness.
Snuffles—A virulent contagious affection of the nasal passages and respiratory organs, usually terminating, in chronic illness. Indicated by

fever, heavy breathing, sneezing and discharge of thick creamy naso-pus from nostrils. A disqualification. Remove from show-room.
Solid color—(self-color)—Of the same color uniformly over the entire animal—not mixed with any other color.
Sore hocks—An ulcerated condition of the foot-pads or soles of either fore or hind feet of the rabbit. A disqualification.
Spraddled—As applied to fore feet. Bowed outwardly when viewed from the front—knock-kneed. As applied to hind feet—not set parallel with the body; turned outwardly from the hock-joint. A disqualification.
Squatty—As applied to fore feet. Not straight in bone; broken down or bowed inwardly. A disqualification.
Station—Ideal manner of standing of carriage in conformity with standard position or pose.
Stocky—Compact, stout and cobby.
Strain—A race or stock of rabbits in any standard breed of the same family blood, having the quality of reproducing marked racial characteristics.
Stringy—The quality of having ropy or sinewy flesh—noticeably in the larger breeds of rabbits if not properly fattened for market.
Sway-back—As applied to type. Having a distinct fall or scoop in that portion of the back between the shoulders and hindquarters, as distinguished from gradually arching back.
Symmetry—(As applied to types in rabbits.) The quality of possessing a harmonious proportion of head, ears, legs and body structure conforming to the standard type of the breed represented.
Tail-carriage—The way in which a rabbit carries the tail. Poor tail carriage is denoted by the tail being carried to one side or the other instead of correct. A severe cut.
Ticking—A wavy distribution of longer guard hairs throughout the fur of a color distinct from the under-wool or body fur. Such ticking is unusually produced by black-tipped guard hairs, as in Chinchillas, Flemish Giants and Belgian Hares and adds greatly to the beauty of the fur. It may occur in other colors, such as blue ticking in Blue Squirrels or black-tipped fawn hairs in New Zealand Reds, (a fault).
Tucked-up—As applied to type, the trim appearance of a Belgian Hare, with long rounded body and breast and belly gathered in closely to form an arch when the animal is in sitting position.
Typical—Serving as an ideal representative of any given breed or variety as applied to type, color or fur quality.
Under-color—The base of the fur hair—shaft next to the skin (not the belly fur of the animal). In the agouti breeds, the under color is usually slate-blue from the skin about half-inch of the hair shaft. In the self breeds, the under color usually extends three-quarters or the entire length of both the under-wool and the guard hairs.
Under-wool—The shorter, softer body fur in the pelage of a rabbit, readily distinguished from the longer guard hairs. It should be very thick and as near one inch in length as possible.
Variety—(As applied to rabbits, “Type shows the breed and color the variety.”) A breed subdivision, applicable to animals of any recognized standard breed, but distinct in color of fur from other races or subdivisions thereof.
Vent disease—Venereal diseases in rabbits of both sexes. Indicated by scabby, reddened male or female organs, usually exuding pus. A disqualification. Remove from show room.
Wall eyes—(Moon eyes) Having a milky film over the cornea or appearance similar to a moonstone. A disqualification.
Wool—Applied as descriptive of the fur of Angora rabbits—the guard hairs and under-fur being from 2 1/2 to 5 inches in length and resembling fine wool in texture.
Wolf teeth—Protruding or elongated teeth in either upper or lower jaw, caused by breakage of the teeth opposite. A disqualification.
Wry-tail—Abnormally bent, curled or twisted permanently to one side; a corkscrew tail with one or more turns. A disqualification.
Curtesy American Rabbit Association.
American Blue English, Blue
American Whites Flemish, Black
American Checkered Giants Flemish, Blue
American Heavyweight Silver Grey Flemish, Sandy Gray
American Heavyweight Silver Blue Flemish, Light Gray Flemish, Steel Gray
Angora Woolers
Belgian Hares Flemish, White
Belgian Hares (Heavy Weight) Havanas
Beveren Blue Himalayans
Beveren White Imperial Blues
Black and Tan Japanese
Blue and Tan Lops, English Lops, French
Black Siberian Hare
Chinchillas Lilac
Chinchillas, Heavyweight New Zealand
Champagne de Argents Polish
Dutch, Black Rhinelander
Dutch, Blue Silver Gray
Dutch, A. O. C. Silver Brown
English, Black Silver Fawn
English, A. O. C. Silver Black Giants Sitka
Any of the following ailments: Colds, catarrh or snuffles, ear canker, slobbers, pot belly, sore hocks, vent disease, abscesses, tumor, rupture, blindness in one or both eyes, lop, fallen (except in lop-eared varieties) and side carried ear, ear torn or ears, 3/4 inch or more portion missing showing noticeably.
Off-colored eyes, wall eyes, moon eyes, spots in pupil and unmatched
Crooked feet or legs, bow legs, cow hocked, knocked knees, or any deformed bones in body. (Note tail disqualifications.)
Off-colored spots in solid varieties, dyeing or plucking, or full of foreign-colored hair such as blue or black full of white hairs.
Wiry tail, screw and bob tail.
Wiry tail: One permanently set to either side.
Screw tail or twisted tail.
Broken tail: When broken more than one-half inch from end and permanently set out of line.
Bob tail: When cut off or missing, showing same to be conspicuously out of proportion.
Dewlaps should disqualify in competition in the following varieties: Belgians (not heavyweight Belgians), Dutch, English, Silver, Himalayans, Polish, Imperials, Havanas, Blacks, Blues and Tans.
White toe nail or nails in all breeds except solid Whites.
Sore eyes. Specimen in moult or otherwise out of condition (but not diseased). Stray hairs, broken teeth or toe nails. Double dewlaps.
Poor tail carriage, one that is not permanently set on either side but favors either side.
Kinky boned tails and those with knot on end to be severely cut.
Dead tail. When hard and apparently lifeless for more than one inch from end.
Special disqualifications for special breeds specified under heading of breed.
NOTE—All Foreign Standard Breeds not covered by the following Standards will be recognized and judged by the Standard of their respective country.
Rich, clear, dark slate blue, with as great a depth of color as possible. Should be free from all white hairs, sandy or rusty color, and uniform blue color over entire body, feet, legs, chest, head, ears, belly and tail.
Points................20 Cuts...............1 to 10
Mandolin, meaning slightly arched, not humped. Compact, broad, meaty back, slightly arched, not flat. Medium sized bone, well developed thighs and fairly broad across hips; body tapering from hips slightly towards shoulders; as small dewlap as possible.
Points................25 Cuts...............1 to 10
Well shaped, not too long, rather slim, not blocky, even color. Eyes to be blue and bold.
Points................10 Cuts...............1 to 5
About 5 to 5 1/4 inches in length, narrow, well set on, tapering slightly to a point. Even color.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Straight, medium size, dark toe nails.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Coat to be free from moult and good deep color. Free from any stray colored hairs, with dense, soft, fine, silky texture. Flesh firm and solid.
Points................25 Cuts...............1 to 10
Bucks, 9 pounds. Does, 10 pounds.
Points................10 Cuts................1 to 5
Bucks under 8 pounds. Does under 9 pounds. Bucks over 10 pounds. Does over 11 pounds. White patches of hair. Any other colored eyes but blue. White toe nails or nail.
Cuts: Stray white hairs, sandy or rusty color, or any other foreign-colored hair, uneven color on body, legs or loins, such as showing a silver gray tint. Rough or uneven coat.
Clean, clear, pure white (free from strain or rust) over entire body, bead, ears, feet and legs.
Points.................15 Cuts.............1 to 10
Mandolin (meaning slightly arched), not humped, compact. Broad, meaty back, slightly arched, not flat. Medium size bone, well developed thighs and fairly broad across hips. Body tapering from hips slightly toward shoulders. As small dewlap as possible.
Points.................20 Cuts.............1 to 10
Well shaped, not too long, rather slim, not blocky. Eyes to be pink, bright and bold.
Points.................10 Cuts..................1 to 5
About 5 to 5 1/4 inches in length. Narrow, well set on, tapering slightly to a point.
Points.................. 5 Cuts...............1 to 3
Straight, medium size.
Points.................. 5 Cuts...............1 to 3
Coat to be free from moult and good, clean white color. Dense, soft, fine, silky texture. Flesh firm and solid.
Points.................35 Cuts.............1 to 10
Bucks, 9 pounds. Docs, 10 pounds.
Points..................10 Cuts...............1 to 5
Bucks under 8 pounds. Does under 9 pounds. Bucks over 10 pounds. Does over 11 pounds. Any other color eyes but pink, all general disqualifications.
Rough shaggy coat, severe moult, dirty condition of coat or conspicuous hutch stains. Type resembling New Zealands or Flemish Giants.
NOTE—As this is a new breed, particular attention must be paid t« type.
The Silver Giant rabbit resembles the English Silver rabbit in every way but size and length of fur. They are Silver Gray and Silver Blue.

Undercoloring in Grays a rich, deep, bine-black, in Blues a dark pearl
Points...................20 Cuts................1 to 10
Even throughout the entire body, head, ears, feet and tail. Silvering means a white tipped hair, distinct, sharp, bright and evenly distributed throughout the entire body, head, ears, tail and feet.
Points...................25 Cuts................1 to 10
A rich hazel brown in Grays, and a slaty blue in Blues. To be bold and bright
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Not under 5 inches and carried erect.
Points................. 3 Cuts.................1 to 3
Thick, long, and even. Free from moult and hutch stains.
Points................20 Cuts...............1 to 10
Neat, long, broad fore and hind quarters, back well arched from neck and exceptionally meaty shoulders. Weight, bucks 10 pounds; does 11 pounds.
Points................20 Cuts...............1 to 10
Neat and healthy appearing.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Bucks weighing under 8 pounds and does weighing under 9 pounds. Eyes other than brown in Silver Grays; eyes other than blue in Silver Blues. White patches, crooked legs, drooped or fallen ears, putty nose, and all general disqualifications. Cut severely for pure white hairs, full length.
White, Black, Blue and Fawn. The color to be clear, deep and uniform all over the animal. Eyes to be pink in whites and a color to match, as nearly as possible, the body color in the other colors.
Points.................10 Cuts....................1 to 3
To be cobby and compact, and have the general appearance of a large fluffy ball. Should not weigh less than 6 pounds.
Points.................10 Cuts...............1 to 5
To be well covered with a good quality of wool, to be full in the chest and with a well rounded body.
Points.................10 Cuts................1 to 3
To be well covered with wool, with ears short, stubby and well covered with wool of good quality, and with ear tufts on ends of the ears.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
To be well covered with good quality wool, extending well out to the extreme ends. Feet to have a fringe of wool hanging from them.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 3
Wool free from mats, to show the effect of thorough and frequent grooming and entirely free from moult.
Points.................15 Cuts.................1 to 5
CONDITION OF FLESH Should be firm and solid.
Points............... 5 Cuts................1 to 3
NOTE—Cut severely for lack of ear tufts, matted fur and hutch stains. Long narrow heads. Long non-tufted ears.
The texture shall be very fine and as silky as possible.
Points...............15 Cuts................1 to 5
The fur shall be of good length, from 3 1/2 to 5 inches long.
Points...............15 Cuts................1 to 5
Moderate length of body, with well developed hindquarters and slightly arched back, avoiding the extremes of cobbiness or raciness, head broad, legs straight, no dewlap in bucks, excessive dewlap in does a fault—15.
Undercolor slate blue, body color blueish white, the shade of separated milk, evenly interspersed with longer black hairs—25
The part forming the pelt to be of one shade throughout extremities, that is, the nose, feet, ears and tail to match the pelt. It is often found that a rabbit with well matched extremities is poor in undercolor, the extremities, therefore, should not be judged to the detriment of the undercolor, which is more important from a fur point of view—5.
To be dense, and silky, lying loosely on the body—25.
In good health and firm flesh—10.
Ears carried close together, moderate length and breadth, eyes to be dark brown—5.
Not under 7 pounds and not exceeding 10 pounds—15.
NOTE—The breed to be judged primarily for fur, then for table purposes, that is, fine bone and little offal, lastly for its excellence in those characteristics not essential to the two previous requirements.
White patches, crooked legs, drooping ears, eyes other than brown White toe nails and general disqualifications.
Bony or angular frame, large paunch, fur harsh, thin, ragged or short, color cream or yellow tint.
Standard of Perfection as Adopted by The American Checkered Giant Club SIZE AND WEIGHT
Bucks, 11 pounds; does, 13 pounds; cuts on bucks 6 points for each pound under 11 pounds; cuts on does 4 points for each pound under 13 pounds. All points equal weight wins but must retain shape.
Points................12 Cuts................1 to 12
Long, well-arched, broad hindquarters, tapering slightly to the front but not wedge shaped. Bucks less tapering than does, body carried well off the ground.
Points................15 Cuts................1 to 15
Front legs long, and straight, medium bones, hind legs larger, carried parallel with the body and as free from marking color as possible.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 5
Large, well proportioned; bucks more massive than does but avoid bull dog type.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 5
May be Black, Blue or A. O. C. A. O. C. means Gray, Tortoise, Yellow or any other color, but must not be Black and Gray or Blue and Tortoise; any three colors disqualifies.
Shape of butterby wings circling around nose from lip to lip, body of butterfly to be in proportion to wings and extend toward the forehead. A small spot on nose smaller than pea or a strip of white along lower edge of upper lip shall not disqualify but will be cut full 10 points.
Points.................10 Cuts................1 to 10
To consist of a circle of the marking color around each eye, symmetrical in shape, both eye circles to be uniform and clear from ears and cheek spots and butterfly.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 5
Spots of color on each cheek about 1/2 inch in diameter and separated at least 3/8 inch from eye circle.
Points................ 5 Cuts...............1 to 5
Solid color from tip to base, separated from eye circle and cheek spots Ears to be 6 inches long.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 5
A strip of color markings following the backbone from base of ears to tip of tail, which is called spine marking. Cut one point for each inch missing.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 5
To consist of two spots or two groups of spots on each side, both sides to be exactly alike. Spots may be from 10 to 18 square inches on each side. These spots or groups are not to extend past midway of body, shoulders to be free from spots. Cut 4 points for each spot forward of midway of body.
Points................16 Cuts................1 to 16
Belly and crotch to be free from color marking as possible.
Points................ 2 Cuts................1 to 2
Fur to be long, thick and glossy and not of the fly back type. Plenty of good hair and free from moult.
Points................10 Cuts................1 to 10
To be clean, no stains, spots; not poor or not too fat.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 5
Bucks. 4 months old, 5 to 6 pounds. Does, 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 pounds.
Bucks 5 months old, 6 to 7 pounds. Does, 6 1/2 to 7 1/2.
Bucks 6 months old, 7 to 8 pounds. Does, 7 1/2 to 9 pounds.
Bucks 7 months old, 8 to 9 pounds. Does, 9 to 10 1/2 pounds.
Bucks 8 months old, 9 to 10 pounds. Does, 10 1/2 to 12 pounds.
Bucks 9 months old, 10 to 11 pounds. Does, 12 to 13 pounds.
A good healthy and thrifty rabbit will continue to grow until it is 12 months old. These weights may be exceeded, but always keep in mind the shape and type of your rabbit.
Colds, catarrh or snuffles, ear canker, slobbers, pot belly, sore hocks, vent disease, abscesses, tumor, ruptures, blindness in one or both eyes, lop or fallen ears, torn ears when three-fourths inch or more, portion showing noticeably, off-colored eyes, wall eyes, crooked feet or legs, bowed legs, cow hocked, knock kneed or any deformed bones in the body. Wry, screw and bobbed tail; broken tail when permanently set out of line; white spot within butterfly larger than a small pea. A white strip along edge of upper lip shall not be considered to mean a white spot—a white spot must be surrounded by marking color. Split butterfly, absence of either cheek mark, absence of one eye circle; if both cheek spots are connected
to eye circles; if both eye circles are connected to ears or butterfly. Ears under 5 1/2 inches. If more than four spots of color marking on both sides forward of midway of body resemble chain.
This does not mean spots on back of the neck. If the strip of color of backbone markings sets off to either side. If more than one-fourth of spine marking is missing in one solid patch or one-half in all. Measurements to be from base of ears to tip of tail. If side markings are connected to spine markings. If no color markings on hip or hips. Sway back, bucks under 9 pounds, does under 10 pounds. Double dewlap.
A spot of body color in the marking color is not a disqualification but a cut, other than in the nose—then it must be larger than a small pea, or if a spot up from ear base showing very noticeably, but must be at least two inches from base of ears, and be very noticeable.
NOTE—If a spot of color is connected with the spine markings and separated from the side markings, it shall be judged as part of the spine markings and cut heavily.
As Adopted by The National Belgian Hare Club of America DISQUALIFICATIONS
Lopped or fallen ear, distinct white (except under jaws or belly) front foot decidedly awry, wry tail, total blindness, chronic case of "snuffles, ” case of “ear canker,” case of “vent disease.”
A specimen should have the benefit of any doubt.
Each of the following thirty-three paragraphs shall be considered of equal value in points.
Specimen—At maturity, eight pounds. At from four to eight months, one pound per month.
Legs—Long in proportion to size of body; thus giving the specimen what is termed “lofty station.”
Heart Girth—Large in proportion to size of specimen; thus insuring strong vitality and great lung capacity.
Ears—At maturity, five inches in length.
Eyes—Large, in proportion.
Head—Rather large.
Body—Long and comparatively thin; thus assisting in giving the animal a “racy” appearance.
Back—Uniformly and smoothly arched; without abrupt squareness or reversal.
Loin—Full, round, smooth and comparatively heavy.
Flank—Well tucked-up, with well sprung ribs; thus preventing “bagginess” in appearance.
Neck and Breast—As free from dewlap as possible.
Ears—Neatly set on, under perfect control, and gracefully and well carried at a fifty degree angle.
Eyes—Round, full, bold.
Front Legs—Well placed and straight; from a front view.
Front Feet—Firmly attached to leg; thus carrying the specimen well “up on toe,” as viewed from side.
Back, Sides, Shoulders—Rich “Rufus-Red”; carried to a good depth.
Hind Quarters—As nearly colored as above and as free from plain gray as possible.
Stray Hairs—Above sections, free from white hairs; caused by fighting and other injury.
Ticking—(Black tips on hairs covering sections already enumerated.) Sufficiently plentiful to produce a distinctly “wavy” appearance when the coat of animal is being stroked.
Front Feet—The richest “Rufus-Red” possible.
Hind Feet—Tan or buff; the richer and deeper the better.
Ears—Except for “lacing,” rich “old gold,” not smudged with ticking.
Lacing (Distinctive black tips of new moon shape on the ears.) Should meet the golden color of the ear abruptly, be carried closely to edge of ear, and be carried an inch along the thinner edge of the ear, and as much or more along the thicker edge.
Belly—Creamy white in color.
Under the Jaw—Cinnamon, or creamy white.
Eyes—Rich hazel.
General Appearance—Males, distinctively masculine, and females distinctively feminine; to ensure their being of prolific tendencies.
Disposition—Alert and somewhat restless; indicating undisturbed cir culation and plenty of nerve force.
Flesh—Firm and resistant to the touch; giving the specimen greater weight than would be expected.
Bone—Neat, dense and flinty, with no show of coarseness, compara tively.
Ears—Fine in texture; not spoon-shaped or clumsy, comparatively.
Condition—Eyes, ears and other flesh parts, undamaged.
Bloom—Fur, well matured, clean, and in attractive form.
Rich rufous red, carried well down sides, as little gray on haunches as possible. Belly and under jaw to be as free from white as possible. Points..................15 Cuts.............1 to 5
Body to be long, back arched, head long, chest muscular, tail long and straight. To resemble the Standard Belgian, but bigger throughout.
Points.................20 Cuts................1 to 10
Of a wavy appearance and plentiful, to be confined to the back and loins.
Points.................10 Cuts................1 to 3
Long, large and well set on, not less than 5 inches, well colored, well laced on tips far down on outside of ears as possible.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Hazel color, large, bright and round.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Fore feet and legs long, straight with good heavy bone and rich color, as free from ticking as possible. Hind feet rich, solid color.
Points.................10 Cuts................1 to 3
With small dewlap well carried.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Perfectly healthy and large, firm not fat, good quality of fur.
Points.................10 Cuts................1 to 5
Buck, nine pounds. Doe, ten pounds.
Points.................20 Cuts....................1 to 10
Buck under eight pounds. Doe under 8 1/2 pounds.
General Appearance—Mandolin shape; long, broad back, haunches well developed, tail broad, medium length, carried close to body—20 Points.
Size—Large as possible, but not under 7 lbs., firm, clean flesh and healthy condition—20 Points.
Coat—Long, silky, thick, soft, very lustrous, exceedingly fine, lying loosely on body—20 Points.
Color—Clean, intense shade of light lavender blue throughout—20 Points.
Head—Bold, not too long; profile markedly bent down; muzzle broad —5 Points.
Eyes—Large brilliant blue, iris to match body color—5 Points.
Ears—Fairly long, well furred, carried erect to form a V—5 Points.
Feet—Forefeet straight and short; hind feet longer and stronger; nails blue as possible—5 Points.
White nail or nails disqualify.
Faults—Hairs or eyes other than blue; pendant ears; coarse, thin, uneven or wooly coat; legs bent; slab sides.
White Beverens
The same standard applies with the exception of color which is pure white, including toe nails and must have blue eyes also.
The whole aim is to get as far as possible from the heavy Flemish type and strive to get the hare type and racy lines, similar but not so extreme as a good Belgian.
Head—Medium in size, rather long, lacking bulldog appearance.
Ears—Fairly long, pointed, upright.
Eyes—Large, lustrous in color, a very dark brown.
Neck—Rather long, buck no dewlap, dewlap on does as small as possible.
Body—Long, shapely and rather racy, carried well off the ground.
Legs—Long, thin bone and strong, similar to the Belgian, but not extreme, carrying body well off ground.
Tail—Beaver shape, long in comparison to the other varieties of rabbits.
Fur and Condition—Fur thick, glossy, dense, soft, fine, silky texture, Condition of coat firm, not shedding.
Color—A jet glossy black throughout, except soles of feet are a blueish gray, free from foreign color or brownish cast.
Weight—Bucks not over 9 pounds, does not over 10 pounds. As near standard weight as possible.
Points—Head 3, ears 3, neck 3, body 10, legs 4, tail 2, color 30, fur 25, weight 20—Total, 100.
Disqualifications—Any positive color but black unless due to sun fading. Any defects such as wry tail, lop ear, crooked legs, white toe nails and all general disqualifications, etc. Scattered white hairs are a defect to be avoided, cut severely. Disqualification if plentiful.
Standard Adopted by the American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association
Medium length and chubby. Firm in flesh. Points.................10 Cuts....
Bright, smooth, glossy coat, free from moult. Points.................10 Cuts....
1 to 5
1 to 5
Medium size, carried erect. Evenly ticked and to match the body in color. Disqualify large like those of Giant. Upper part of ear must show a distinct black lacing.
Points................ 5 Cuts..................1 to 3
Medium size, rather fine in does, short neck and to match body in color.
Points................ 5 Cuts..................1 to 3
Brown in color, large, bright and bold, with alert expression.
Points................ 5 Cuts..................1 to 3
To be straight, of medium bone, the upper part of the feet and the outside of the legs to be ticked with uniform shade of gray to match body as nearly as possible.
Points................ 5
1 to 3
To resemble the real wild Chinchilla, the whole of the body fur from nape of neck to flanks to be interspersed with longer hairs of jet black with regular wavy ticking. The under color to be slate blue at base; intermediate portion pearl gray, merging into white and slightly tipped with black. Admissible, neck fur slightly lighter in color than body, but this is strictly confined to the nape; the chest and flanks to be ticked with uniform shade of pearl gray, but of slightly lighter shade than the body; the color of the belly is to be as nearly blue as possible, especially in bucks.
Points................25 Cuts................1 to 20
The hairs to be about 1 inch long and very dense.
Points................25 Cuts................1 to 20
Underneath white; top black; with tips of hair white.
Points............... 5 Cuts...............1 to 3
Does, 6 to 7 pounds. Bucks 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 pounds. Well developed juniors not to be penalized.
Points............... 5 Cuts...............1 to 3
White patches on body; white nose or feet; lop ears; crooked feet; wry or fully side carried tail; too light in color or mixed with brown or brown patches; one or more white toe nails or any other than brown eyes. Reject energetically, all rabbits resembling Giants, and any other general disqualification now recognized by the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc.
Senior Does, 6 to 7 pounds; Bucks, to 6 1/2 pounds.
Junior Does, not under 5 pounds; Bucks, not under 4 1/2 pounds.
AMERICAN HEAVYWEIGHT CHINCHILLA RABBIT Standard Adopted by the American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association at Tampa, Florida, Convention February 1-5, 1928
To be compact, firm in flesh, conforming as nearly as possible to that of the lightweight Chinchilla. The back to form a slight, gradual arch, beginning at the base of the cars and extending to the tail.
Points..............10 Cuts..............1 to 5
Bright, smooth, glossy coat, free from moult.
Points..............10 Cuts..............1 to 5
Five inches in length, heavy set, carried erect and close together. Evenly ticked, and to match the body in color. The upper part of ear must show a distinct jet-black narrow lacing.
Points.................. 5 Cuts.......................1 to 3
To be medium full from top to bottom, with well filled face and jaw. Neck as short as possible. Dewlap medium in size.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
As dark a brown as possible, large, round and bold.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
The legs to be straight and of medium bone. The upper part of the feet and the inside of the legs to be ticked with a uniform shade to match body as nearly as possible.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
To resemble the real wild Chinchilla, the whole of the body fur from nape of neck to flanks to be interspersed with longer hairs of jet black with regular wavy ticking. The under color to be slate blue at base; intermediate portion pearl gray, merging into white and slightly tipped with black. Admissible neck fur slightly lighter in color than body, but this is strictly confined to the nape; the chest and the flanks to be ticked with uniform shade of pearl gray, but of slightly lighter shade than the body. The color of the belly is to be as nearly blue as possible, especially in bucks.
Points.................25 Cuts................1 to 20
Fur on body to be at least one inch in length, very dense and of fine texture.
Points.................25 Cuts................1 to 20
Underneath white. Top black, interspersed with white hairs.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Does, 10 pounds; Bucks, 9 pounds. Well developed juniors not to be penalized.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
White patches on body; white nose or feet; lop ears; crooked feet; wry or fully side carried tail; too light in color or mixed with brown or brown patches; one or more white nails or any other than brown eyes. Reject energetically all rabbits resembling Flemish in type. And any other general disqualifications now recognized by the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc.
Does, 8 to 11 pounds. Bucks, 7 1/2 to 9 pounds.
As proposed by the American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association at Lima, Ohio. Convention Show, November, 1925. Discontinued at the Colorado Springs Convention Show, 1926, and re-established at the Tampa, Florida, Convention Show, February, 1928.
Large, not flat, with broad fore and hind quarters; a full chest; the body should gracefully arch back from shoulders over hind quarters; hind quarters to be thick and massive. A small dewlap evenly carried permissible.
Points.................10 Cuts................1 to 5
A full even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness, not dead or dull. Firm, solid flesh.
Points............... 10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Strong, thick and erect, well set on with heavy, stocky base, to be 5 1/2 inches long or more in proportion to body. Color same as back of body with small black lacing on upper part.
Points................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
To be large and shapely, rather broad in bucks; color to match the body.
Points................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
Large, brown in color with reposeful expression. Eye circle very small and of light gray color.
Points.................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
Strong straight and of good size, color to match body, toe nails black-brown.
Points.................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
To be uniform throughout, first ring color at the root of the hair to be slate blue. Second ring color (the middle color) light pearl gray. Third ring color a dark colored stripe hardly visible. Hair tips black and white; the more wave-like, shaded, the fur, the more valuable it will be, waves to run well forward and down sides of body. Belly color as nearly blue as possible, especially in bucks. Nape of neck small, colored lighter than the back.
Points..................25 Cuts.................1 to 20
Very soft and rich in undercolor, free from moult, about one inch
Points..................25 Cuts.................1 to 20
Top black, sprinkled with gray-white hair; underneath white.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
To be large, well built, and well proportioned, does to weigh 11 pounds, bucks to weigh 10 pounds. Disqualify for one pound under weight in matured specimens.
Points................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
White patches on body; white nose or feet; overlarge dewlap; yellow nape in neck; rust spots; two colored or white toe nails; two colored or blue eyes; lop ears; lazy carried ears; crooked feet; wry or fully side carried tail; brown ring color; brown or yellow undercolor on belly; missing blue-gray undercolor, and any other general disqualifications now recognized by the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc.
Any sound color, as free from white ticking as possible. The body color over the ears, cheeks and body in the rear of the saddle line down the hind legs to the feet stops should, in the Blacks, Blues and Steels, be clear, deep and uniform throughout. In the Tortoise to be a bright orange shading to a darker color on ears and loins. The body color should be free from white hairs mixed in, or running into the body color. Saddle, blaze and feet stops to be white.
Points...............10 Cuts................1 to 3
The white portion of the rabbit, which embraces chest, throat, front legs and body, starting clear of the front legs in the rear of them and running to the ears. The line where the saddle joins the body color should be a perfect circle around the body.
Points...............20 Cuts................1 to 5
The white portion of the head. It should be wedge shaped covering the nose, whisker beds and tapering up to the ears, running between same in a very narrow line, and entirely dividing each cheek and ear and joining the white portion known as the saddle.
Cheeks to run to whisker bed and be round, but not touch.
Points...............15 Cuts................1 to 5
Ears and cheeks of the body color, ears, erect, of solid color with no white about the base except the b1aze and not to be over four inches in length.
Points...............20 Cuts................1 to 5
Hind feet to have white markings from the toes to a point one and one-half inches from them up the leg. They should be clean cut and even on both feet.
Points................15 Cuts................1 to 5
Should be hazel in blacks. In other colors they should match the body color as nearly as possible. They should be free from spots on the iris, or from discoloration known as “wall eyed.” They should be clear and bold.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 3
To weigh under 5 pounds, cobby in shape and compact in form and limb.
Points.................10 Cuts................1 to 5
Flesh firm and solid. Fur very close and shining, to be even, in good condition and free from moult.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 3
If over 6 pounds in weight. Large and unsightly patch on body color in the white and where extending below knee, or white in the body color. If body is attached to limb at all, to be severely cut. If patch is inconspicuous, cut heavily. For all specks, wall eyes, blindness and flesh spots in body color.
Note—Avoid getting belt too far to the front. This will avoid having belt connect with front legs underneath. Also do not have belt too far back. Two-thirds dark color to one-third white.
ENGLISH RABBIT STANDARD Adopted by American English Rabbit Club, June 1, 1926
Ideal English Rabbit STANDARD OF POINTS
Ideal English Rabbit STANDARD OF POINTS
Perfect butterfly smut................................15 points
Circle around eyes.................................... 8 points
Cheek spots to be clear from eye circle............... 5 points
Ears neat and clear from white and not over four inches
long ............................................. 5 points
Total ........................................33 points
Unbroken saddle, to be herring boned and clear in any
distinct color....................................10 points
Body or loin markings to be nicely broken up in small
spots, and not to catch the saddle markings.......12 points
Chain markings as even as possible on each side.......12 points
Leg markings, one distinct spot on each leg, front legs 5
points, back legs 2 points........................ 7 points
Belly or teat spots, there should be six........... 6 points
Color ................................................10 points
Size and shape, six to eight pound, and between Silver
and Belgian ...................................... 5 points
Condition, good coat and not baggy........................ 5 points
Total ..................................................67 points
Grand Total .......................................100 points
General note: The markings on both sides of the English rabbit to be equally balanced. Chain markings to commence at base of ear in small spots, increasing in size toward the loins.
White spots within the butterfly, or any foreign color in markings. If weight is over 8 pounds, if totally without any one of the classes of markings called for, as no chain markings, no loin markings, no eye spots, or leg markings, when saddle markings, commonly called herring line, lay off center of back, no teat spots.
For stray spots, markings other than teat markings, such as patches on belly and in crotch to be cut severely, and extremely large to be disqualified. Also cut for white running up ears, according to amount. When break in saddle markings, commonly called herring bone, is three inches in length, to be disqualified.
Dewlaps cut severely. If large, double or crooked disqualify.
As Adopted by the National Federation of Flemish Giant Breeders GENERAL DISQUALIFICATIONS
In all varieties of Flemish the following shall disqualify:
1. Specimen showing disease of any kind, such as ear canker, snuffles, slobbers, pot belly, vent disease, mange, skin disease, sore bocks, abscesses, etc.
2. Patches of hair removed showing distinct spots as if off colored hair bad been removed.
3. Patches of color foreign to that called for.
4. Lop ears, or side carried ears.
5. Moon or unmatched eyes. Blind in one or both eyes.
6. Ears under 5 1/2 inches long.
7. Crooked or deformed feet or legs.
8. Broken or crooked bones of any kind or dislocated bones.
9. Over-aged specimens in junior class or 8 months class.
10. Ears with a slit 1 inch or more in length or part of ear gone.
11. White bars on front feet that show conspicuously.
12. Screw or wry tail, broken tail, if broken more than one-half inch from end, and permanently set out of line.
Side carried tail, if held firmly to one side; but only to cut in case of partly side carried, or as terms sometimes used, nasty tail carriage, or at time can be carried correctly, other times slightly to one side when hopping or posing.
Tail that has been cut or broken off to extent of one-fourth or more of its natural length.
A small lump or ball on the end of tail shall not disqualify but cut severely. Sometimes this lump is caused from freezing or being crushed in hutch door.
Dead bone at end of tail over 1 inch long shall disqualify.
13. White toe nail or nails will disqualify in all colored varieties. All toe nails should match the body color as nearly as possible.
14. Broken teeth or toe nails will not disqualify, but cut severely. All Flemish should be free from pure white hairs except white.
15. All colors, Senior Bucks and Docs under 11 pounds.
The following standards shall govern the placing of awards on Flemish Giant rabbits at all shows sanctioned by the Board; also the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., and the National Federation of Flemish Giant Breeders. These standards are based on what would be the perfect Flemish, but if your specimen does not meet with all these qualifications, do not become discouraged but endeavor to attain perfection.
To be large, broad and shapely with uniform color same as body. Eyes to be dark brown and uniform with reposeful expression.
Points................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
As long and powerful as possible. Not flat. With full broad fore and hind quarters. A full plump chest. The body should gracefully arch back from shoulders over hind quarters. Hind quarters to be thick, broad and massive as possible in order to obtain weight. Does to have a large, full, uniform, even carried dewlap.
Points.................15 Cuts.................1 to 5
To be as large as possible, and of powerful, massive build, but in pro portion throughout.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Bucks shall weigh 13 pounds or more; does 15 pounds or over, and as much more as possible. Cut 5 points for each pound under weight.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Shall be uniform dark steel gray throughout, with even uniform wavy ticking over whole body. Head, ears, chest, feet and legs, except under belly and under tail shall be as light in color as possible. All Steels to be as free from brassiness as possible. Free from white hairs.
Points..................25 Cuts.....................1 to 10
Long, strong, thick and erect. Well set on with a heavy, stocky base. Color uniform same as body to be six inches long or more in proportion to body.
Points.................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
Strong, straight, large and powerful. Color to be as near that of body as possible and free from sandiness or bars.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
A full, even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness. Not dead or lifeless. Firm, solid flesh, fur to be close and soft, free from moult. Points.....................20 Cuts.....................1 to 5
To be as great as possible, with bucks 13 pounds and over and does 15 pounds and over.
Points 20 and cut 5 points for each pound under weight.
To be an even light gray, as free from sand or reddish brown as possible. (Steel Gray to be disqualified in this variety.) Color to be even over entire body, except under tail and belly, which should be white. Free from white hairs.
Points................25 Cuts................1 to 10
• Large, broad and shapely. Eyes dark, uniform and of reposeful expression.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Long, thick, strong and erect, and of color to match body; with strong, stocky ear base to be 6 inches long or more in proportion to body.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Large, long, good shape, with broad hind quarters and chest. Does to have evenly carried dewlap, well developed.
Points................15 Cuts................1 to 5
Straight, strong and powerful. Color to match body, uniform as possible, free from white bars or shadow bars as possible.
Points..................10 Cuts.....................1 to 3
Fur to be close and soft. Flesh firm and solid, free from moult. Stomach shapely and not potty.
Points...J............20 Cuts.....................1 to 10
To be as great as possible, with bucks 14 pounds and over and does 16 pounds and over.
Points 30; cut 5 points for each pound under weight.
Color to be of sandy gray with uniform ticking over entire body except under tail and belly, which should be white. The word sandy gray relative to color means a pearl gray color stained with brassiness, sandiness or
brownish cast. The animal with the most uniformity of color over entire body given preference—not smudgy or patchy. A clean, light gray or steel gray disqualified in this class.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Long, broad and shapely. Eyes dark, large and bold. Color of head same as body color.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Long, broad and heavy with good carriage. Color same as head and body color, to have heavy ear base, ears well set on, and not less than 6 inches long or more in proportion to body.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Straight, long and heavy boned. Color same as body color. Slight cut for off-colored legs and feet. Shadow bars no disqualification.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Long as possible with broad front and hind quarters with slight taper to front (not wedge shape) nicely arched back—not flat. Does to have evenly carried dewlap, well developed.
Points..................15 Cuts.................1 to 5
Fur to be short and close, free from moult. Flesh firm and solid. Stomach shapely and not potty.
Points..................15 Cuts.................1 to 5
Disqualifications same as other varieties of Flemish.
To be large, broad and shapely, with uniform solid black color, same as body. Eyes to be dark and uniform color, with reposeful expression.
Points................ 5 Cuts................1 to 3
As large and powerful as possible, not flat, with full, broad fore and hind quarters. A full, plump chest. The body should gracefully arch back from shoulder over hind quarters. Hind quarters to be as thick and massive as possible. Does to have large, full, even carried dewlap.
Points................15 Cuts................1 to 5
To be as large as possible and of powerful, massive build, but in proportion throughout.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Bucks shall weigh 13 pounds or more; does 15 pounds or more, and as much more as possible.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Shall be uniform solid black throughout, without ticking, stray hairs or brownish cast. Brownish casts and white hairs will cut, but not disqualify unless conspicuous.
Points.................25 Cuts.................1 to 10
Long, strong, thick and erect, well set on with a heavy, stocky base, uniform solid black to match body, to be six inches long or more in proportion to body.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Strong, straight, large and powerful, color solid black to match body.
Points.................10 Cuts................1 to 5
A full, even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness, not dead or dull, firm, solid flesh, fur to be close and soft, free from moult.
Points.................20 Cuts................1 to 5
To be large, broad and shapely, with uniform solid white color same as body. Eyes to be pink with reposeful expression.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Long, strong, thick and erect, well set on with a heavy, stocky base, uniform solid white to match body. Ears to be 6 inches long, or more in proportion to body.
Points.................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
As large and powerful as possible, not flat, with full, broad fore and hind quarters. A full plump chest. The body should gracefully arch back from shoulders over hind quarters. Hind quarters to be thick and massive as possible. Does to have large, full, even carried dewlap.
Points..................15 Cuts................1 to 5
To be as large as possible but in proportion throughout.
Points..................15 Cuts................1 to 5
Bucks should weigh 13 pounds or more; does 15 pounds or more, and as much more as possible.
Points.................10 Cuts................1 to 5
Strong, straight, large and powerful. Color, pure white to match body.
Points................10 Cuts................1 to 5
Shall be a uniform pure white throughout, without ticking, stray hairs or yellowish cast, and of fine texture.
Points................10 Cuts................1 to 10
A full even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness, not dead or dull, firm solid flesh, fur to be close and soft, free from moult.
Points................30 Cuts................1 to 5
To be large, broad and shapely, with uniform solid blue color, same as body. Eyes to be blue with reposeful expression.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Long, strong, thick and erect, well set on with a heavy, stocky base, uniform solid blue to match body. Ears to be 6 inches long or more in proportion to body.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
As large and powerful as possible, not flat, with full broad fore and hind quarters. A full plump chest. The body should gracefully arch back from shoulders over hind quarters. Hind quarters to be thick and massive as possible. Does to have large, full, even carried dewlap.
Points..................15 Cuts.................1 to 4
To be as large as possible and of powerful, massive build, but in proportion throughout.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Bucks shall weigh 13 pounds or more; does 15 pounds or more, and as much more as possible.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Strong, straight, large and powerful. Color solid blue to match body.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Shall be solid blue throughout, without ticking, stray hairs or brownish casts. Brownish casts and white hairs will cut, but not disqualify unless conspicuous.
Points.................20 Cuts................1 to 10
A full even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness, not dead or dull, firm, solid, flesh, fur to be close and soft, free from moult.
Points.................25 Cuts................1 to 5
Havana Rabbit Club Standards COLOR
A rich, bright brown all over; as free from other color and tints as possible.
Undercoat a pale slate nearest the skin, surface to run as deep toward skin as possible.
Points........,........30 Cuts.......................1 to 10
Body compact with broad haunches.
Points..................15 Cuts.................1 to 5
Head rather short and narrow with full cheeks. Broader in bucks
than does.
Points.................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
Weight when full grown about 6 pounds.
Points..................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Four inches in length, fine in substance, straight and carried upright
Points.................. 5 Cuts..................1 to 3
FORE LEGS AND FEET Very slender and straight with brown toe nails.
Points.................. 5 Cuts..................1 to 3
Large, the color of the fur, showing a red light in the pupil yet having a soft, gentle expression.
Points.................. 5 Cuts................. 1 to 2
Shall be short, fine and silky.
Points.................20 Cuts.....................1 to 10
Healthy, clean and firm in flesh.
Points................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 2
Dewlaps cut severely. White hairs cut severely in all specimens. DISQUALIFICATIONS
Weight under 4 1/2 pounds and over 7 pounds in seniors.
Ears over 4 1/2 inches in length. Other than brown toe nails. Any patch of color other than brown. Disease of any nature. All general disqualifications. Registration weight 4 1/2 to 7 lbs.
White, with marking colors a rich, velvety black.
Ears, short tapering, and well set on.
Points................15 Cuts................1 to 7
Nose, even and well up between eyes.
Points................15 Cuts................1 to 7

Front feet, long, slender and markings well on.
Points 15 Cuts .. .1 to 7
Hind feet, to correspond, markings well up hocks.
Points .25 Cuts ...1 to 10
Eyes, bold, bright, pink.
Points .. 5 Cuts .....1 to 3
Tail, neat, black.
Points .. 5 Cuts 1 to 3
Shape, snaky, body round, not poddy or fat.
Points .. 5 Cuts 1 to 3
Coat, short, fine, and pure white except ears, nose, feet and tail.
Points . 5 Cuts ....1 to 3
Weight, 4 pounds.
Points . 5 Cuts . ..1 to 3
Condition, soft, clean, fiery, smooth coat and free from moult.
Points . 5 Cuts ....1 to 3
Disqualify 5 pounds or over.
Note—The color of the markings should be a rich, velvety black. The more dense the color the better. The markings should be on the nose, ears, feet and tail. The nose marking should be large and well rounded. It should come well up to the face, between the eyes, and be clean cut and distinct all around. It should be dense all over. Many fail on the sides of the nose marking the color being weak on the edges. The ears should be entirely black and well covered with fur. They should be short and neat, tapering to the tips. They should be set fairly close together, and not carried apart. The fore feet should be black right to the top of the legs and they should be cut clean there. The higher the markings come up the leg the better. The same remarks apply to the hind feet. The tail should also be black. The eye required is a pink one, as bright and bold as possible, with no smut or dirty color of hair around the eye.
In shape, the Himalayan should be snaky. A short, cobby rabbit is not desirable. At the same time, a big specimen is not the thing to aim for. While it must be snaky, it should also be small and neat. The long, snaky bodied rabbit shows its markings off to a much greater advantage than does a short, cobby one. The coat is white except on the markings, and it must be pure in color and free from stains of any description.
Dark blue uniform color throughout the body. Body color.
Points Head, chest and ear color. .15 Cuts
Points .10 Cuts 1 to 3
In appearance it slightly resembles the Belgian, having shorter and heavier bones.
Points.................20 Cuts................1 to 5
Seven pounds.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
LEGS AND FEET Medium length, straight and long.
Points................ 2 Cuts............1/2 to 1
Color solid and matching body color.
Points............... 3 Cuts............1/2 to 1 1/2
Head, medium length and narrow, color to match body color. Eyes, large and bold and match body color. Ears about 4 1/2 inches long, rounded tips and set close at base.
Points................28 Cuts.............1 to 15
CONDITION OF FLESH AND FUR Flesh to be firm and solid, fur long and soft.
Points................17 Cuts.............1 to 10
Note—The color of the Blue Imperial should be an even shade of dark blue throughout, fur soft and bright, and a trifle longer than the other short haired rabbits. The eyes should be large and deep blue in color. The ears should be 4 1/2 inches long, and rounded at the tips. They should be carried erect and well together. Size about 7 pounds. They should be shorter in limb than the Belgian Hare, but should slightly resemble Belgian Hare in type.
IRREGULAR MARKINGS Or an unequal distribution of the color bands.
Points.................30 Cuts................1 to 10
Distinct and shiny, from cream and egg gold to a brick red.
Points.................20 Cuts...............1 to 5
Rather short and thick set with strong limbs, weigh about 8 pounds. Points...................20 Cuts...............1 to 5
Undercolor to match body and spotted over with black patches.
To be thick and even.
Points.................10 Cuts...............1 to 3
Points.................10 Cuts...............1 to 3
The Japanese rabbit’s color is intended to represent the rising sun and has circles running around the body at irregular intervals; the bands forming the circles are not regular in size or width; the circles represent the sun’s rays and the undercolor the sun.
Defects are unclear color of bands showing a mottled appearance. Undercolor fading out till it shows pure white spots.
Shall be 16 to 18 inches tip to tip.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Width at widest part should be at least 5 inches.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Should be stout, strong, heavy, well rounded and free from any blemish.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Large and bold.
Points................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
Heavy and straight.
Points................10 Cuts...............1 to 5
Straight and of medium length.
Points................ 5 Cuts...............1 to 3
Heavy fore and full hind quarters. Back well arched. Bucks 10 pounds and over. Does 11 pounds and over.
Points................35 Cuts...............1 to 10
Points................ 5 Cuts...............1 to 3
Flesh firm and solid and altogether of a healthy appearance.
Points................10 Cuts...............1 to 3
Earage less than 14 inches, tip to tip, and less than 4 inches wide. Ears not suspended evenly from the head, such as one ear down and one or part of an ear in any other position except hanging down.
If the specimen has control of one or both ears, so that he or she is able to raise them.
Measurement—The measurements of the ears on lops to be taken from the extreme end of one ear straight across the head to the extreme end of the other ear, stretching slightly along the rule; and the width of the ear is to be measured at the widest part and should measure at least one fourth the length, tip to tip.
Color—Lops are bred in seifs and broken colors, the broken colors being any of the colors in conjunction with white. In the broken colors the markings are very important, the saddle and ears being of a darker color; also the specimen should have a good even butterfly on the nose and a dark colored circle around each eye. The saddle should be of a solid color free from spots and the saddle color connecting the head by two lines of color or large dots. The feet and legs to be pure white, although an uneven spot on each elbow is not objectionable but adds to the beauty.
Should be 18 inches or over from tip to tip. The length and width to strive for is 26 inches long by 6 1/4 inches wide.
Points................25 Cuts..............1 to 10
Width at widest point should be at least one-fourth of the length of the ears tip to tip.
Points................20 Cuts...............1 to 10
Should be strong, stout and free from any blemishes.
Points................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Large and bold.
Points................ 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
Medium heavy and straight.
Points................ 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
Straight and of good length.
Points................ 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
Heavy fore and full hind quarters with back well arched.
Points................ 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
Bucks 10 pounds and over; does 11 pounds and over.
1 to 3
Points................15 Cuts.................I to 5
Flesh firm and altogether of a healthy appearance; fur glossy and full of sheen.
Points................15 Cuts.................1 to 5
Earage less than 1C inches, tip to tip, or a width less than 4 inches at the widest part. Ears not suspended evenly from the head, such as one ear down and part of an ear in other position except hanging down. If the specimen has control of one or both ears, so that he or she is able to raise them.
Measurement—The measurement of the ears on lops is to be taken from the extreme of one ear straight across the head to the extreme end of the other ear, stretching slightly along the rule; and the width of the ear is to be measured at the widest part and should measure at least one-fourth the length, tip to tip.
Color—Lops are bred in seifs and broken colors, the broken colors being any of the colors in conjunction with white. In the broken colors the markings are very important, the saddle and ears being of the darker color; also the specimen should have a good even butterfly on the nose with a dark colored circle connecting the head by two lines of color or solid color free from spots and the saddle color connecting the head by two lines of color or large dots. The feet and legs to be pure white, although an even spot in each elbow is not objectionable, but adds to the beauty.
Color—An even pinky dove color to the root of the fur, 25 points. Coat—Exquisitely soft, fine and dense, lying close to the body, not a fly back coat, 25 points.
Shape—Compact, cobby, broad haunches, 15 points.
Eyes—Color to match fur, glowing ruby red in the dark, large and full, 10 points.
Head—Short, but not coarse, broader in bucks than in does, 5 points.
Ears—Well furred, moderately short and straight, 5 points.
Legs—Short and straight, with color of body carried to toes, 5 points.
Weight—Not to exceed 7 lbs., 5 points.
Condition—In good health and firm in flesh, 5 points.
White patches on the body. Eyes which do not glow ruby red in the shade.
White hairs or eyes which do not match the body color; brown tint on the feet.
Text of New Zealand Red Rabbit Standard—Adopted by the Convention at Omaha, Nebraska, December 2, 1921, and as Amended to Date—General Considerations
The foundation of a breed is its type, and the basis of type considers both size and shape as being its components.
The ideal of the New Zealand type has been that of a specimen presenting a type that is a medium between that of the Flemish Giants on the one side and the Rufus Red Belgian on the other side.
In this conception the extreme raciness of the Rufus Red as well as its fineness of bone are. undesirable and to be eliminated. On the other side the extreme massiveness and length of the Flemish Giant is undesirable and to be eliminated.
In general appearance the ideal type New Zealand should present a rather close coupled, compact frame that is well filled and free from over fatness.
The application of this conception for the specimen as a whole and for its parts by use of the various measurements laid down in this text and shown in the drawings published in connection herewith.
Ideal total length of rabbit from end of nose to base of tail to be nineteen and one-half inches for does and eighteen and one-half inches for bucks; said line to be determined by caliper measurement according to drawing Number One.
The Ideal New Zealand Red color is here set forth and described as being a rich reddish buff, as deep in tone as possible, but not so deep as to lose the buff element and become a deep mahogany red.
As a fine analogy in animal life, to be used as a basis of comparison, the sorrel red horse is offered as nature’s nearest likeness.
In its general appearance this color scheme should be free from stray white hairs, light or dark ticking, frosty or smudgy effects, and as near the same shade over all surfaces as possible, due allowance being made for
a much lighter shade of color on the belly, over the posterior surface of the thighs, on the flanks and for all surfaces where the skin is made free to permit motion of joints.
The coat should be even, smooth and glossy; the flesh should be firm and solid.
Particular Considerations HEAD
Type—Head to be medium full from top to bottom with well filled face and jaws, presenting a slight curvature between the eyes and nose, but not so marked as to resemble a fish hook appearance.
Length from end of the nose to a point at right angles with a line drawn from the center of the base of the cars (see drawing No. 1) to be four and one-half inches in bucks and slightly longer in does.
Distance across the head between eyes to be two inches for does and two and one-fourth inches for bucks (See drawing No. 2).
Points allowed, 5; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Color—Rich reddish buff, as evenly spread as possible over head and face, making due allowance for slightly lighter shade along line of jaws, and for small creamy eye circles, and for creaminess under the jaws, and a lighter shade between the ears, all of which are inherent points of weakness and to be cut with less severity. Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Medium large, bright and expressive.
Points allowed, 3; cuts one-half to the full limit.
Color—Hazel. Points allowed, 1; cuts from one-half to full limit.
Type—Medium full, thick and erectly carried; ideal length to be five and one-fourth inches. Points allowed, 8; cuts one-half to the full limit.
Color—Rich reddish buff; as free as possible from ear lacing.
Points allowed, 3; cuts one-half to the full limit.
Head, ears and eyes should give the specimen an alert, intelligent expression.
Type—Medium fullness, medium width, medium boned, rather strong and short coupled. Color to be as near that of other sections as possible, with allowance made for lighter shade on back of neck and on the under side.
Does to have evenly carried and medium sized dewlap. No measurements or cuts provided for.
Type—Medium fullness, medium width, medium length, giving a rather short, close and compact appearance.
Length from shoulder to hips, ten inches, for bucks; does, ten and one-half. Width across at shoulders to be six inches; at hips, six and one-half inches. (See drawing No. 2.)
Points allowed, 6; cuts from one half to the full limit.
Color—Rich reddish buff, to be as even and uniform over the entire back as it is possible to get it.
Points allowed, 3; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Medium fullness in appearance; firmly carried, and slightly rounded as they pass from the union with the neck above to the belly below, Average distance of sides from a line at right angles to the back to the surface on which the rabbit rests when properly posed with its front feet extended and its belly resting on the table, to be five and one-half inches. (See drawing No. 1.)
Points allowed, 3; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Color—The rich reddish buff of the back shall be carried well down over the sides and blend with the belly color without any sharp or sudden breaks, there being a gradual change in shade as the belly is approached.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Medium fullness, firmly carried, slightly oval surface but free from potted appearance, save in the case of nursing and pregnant does, for which due allowance should be made.
Average width of belly where it touches the surface on which it rests when the rabbit is posed as in drawing number one, six inches. (See cut No. 2.)
Points allowed, 3; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Color—Rich reddish cream, with credit to be given for the closest possible approach to the general color scheme of rich reddish buff. Stray white hairs in this section to be permissible.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit, with due allowance being made for the tendency to run to light cream.
Type—Front legs to be of medium fullness, straight and strong, with medium length of two and one-half inches from first joint or union with the body to the second joint.
Average circumference of the leg at its smallest point to be two and one-half inches with a gradual increase as the leg approached the body.
Points allowed, 3; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Color—Rich reddish buff, carried well around the limb and blending with the dominant color of the belly at the under and inner side.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Medium bone, medium length and size, straight and strong, of even length on both sides.
Length of foot from second joint, to the toes to be six inches.
Circumference of foot to be two inches.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Color—As near that of the general color as possible, free from shadow bars as possible; as free as possible from ticking of any kind; allowance to be made for a slightly lighter shade that is free from shadow bars and spots. Toe nails horn colored.
Points allowed, 1; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Full, firm, powerful, well rounded out over the back of hips.
Length from hips to tail to be five inches.
Hind legs to be full, firm, stout and straight.
Length of legs from body to second joint, seven inches.
Circumference of leg at its smallest point to bo three inches, and to rapidly increase as the leg approaches the body.
Points allowed, 3; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Color—Same as the general body color and carried well over the hind parts to the tail; well around legs to blend with under color of their inner surfaces, with due allowance being made for a lighter tendency at the under margin of the thighs.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Full, strong and straight, with bone larger than that of front feet. Length from second joint to toes to be five inches. Circumference of foot just below the second joint to be three and one-half inches.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Color—As near the general body color as possible, with full credit for rich reddish cream, and reasonable credit for cream according to its distinctness. Toe nails, horn colored.
Points, 1; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Straight, medium in size and length, erectly carried over the hind parts and free from crooks or twists of any kind.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Color—Upper surface to be same as body color; under surface to be white.
Points allowed, 1; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Fur to be soft and dense, color to be as deep in tone as possible. Points 15, cuts from one-half to the full limit.
The fur coat should be clean, free from hutch stains, smooth, even and glossy, with due allowance being made for nursing does, and moulting specimens.
The flesh should be firm and solid as determined by the weight of the specimen as compared with its size.
Should be free from all signs of sickness or disease.
Three and one-half pounds at two months of age.
Four and one-half pounds at three months of age.
Six pounds at four months of age.
Seven pounds at five months of age.
Seven and one-half pounds at six months of age.
Eight pounds for bucks at eight months of age.
Eight and one-half pounds for does at eight months of age.
Nine pounds for bucks and ten pounds for does at maturity.
Crooked front or hind feet or legs; crooked spines; wry or twisted necks; tails that are crooked or have deformed bones; lop ears; ears that are less than four and one-half inches long; eye lids that turn either in or
out upon themselves; blindness of one or both eyes; moon eyes; absence of ear, tail, toe nail or any evidence that a possible blemish that would have disqualified has been removed; any other anatomical or bodily deformity.
Mandolin, Flemish, Belgian or other type than that described in this standard. Senior specimens that are over two inches under or over the standard type measurements.
Senior bucks under eight or over 11 pounds, or does under nine, or over 12, all other specimens that fall under the standard weight of the class in which they are judged.
Specimens that have small Belgian like bones but arc hog fat shall be a subject for disqualification; pot bellied specimens in other than pregnant and nursing does. Specimens showing signs of disease of any kind, either local or constitutional, shall be disqualified from contests in the show room and from the right of being registered.
White eye circles; eyes other than the standard calls for; white bars on either front or hind feet; positive white on belly; inside of legs; or other distinct and positively white patches on any part other than under side of tail; white toe nails; light or dark ticking when sufficient to produce distinct smudgy or frosty effects; a general and marked departure from the standard color to the extent of being a real mahogany red on one side or a very pale yellowish shade on the other side shall disqualify the specimen that shows it.
Designed for the Use of Amateurs, Student Judges and Registrars Cutting for Defects
No specimen should be cut less than one-half a point in any section in which a defect is found, they may be cut to the full number of points provided for in the said section in relation to either type or color.
Seniors that are over or under the standard type measurements should be cut according to the deviation, this rule to apply to the specimen as a whole and to each of its sections.
Ear lacing shall be cut in proportion to its extent and distinctness.
Light or dark ticking shall be cut severely wherever found.
Stray white hairs on other than belly and inside of legs or on hind feet shall be severely cut in proportion to their extent.
Shadow bars on the front feet or other parts where solid color has so far been perfected shall be cut according to their extent.
Hutch stains should be cut in proportion to the effect they have on the specimen and its general looks.
Poor condition of coat shall be cut according to the season of the year, with due allowance being made for moulting specimens and nursing does, in which case they deserve a reasonable benefit of the doubt.
Rule One—Where two specimens are competing, one of which has poor type and good color, while the other has good type and poor color, the one having the best type shall win.
Rule Two—In contests between specimens that are equal in type, the one having the best color shall win.
Rule Three—In contests between specimens that are equal on color, the one having the best type shall win.
Rule Four—In contests between specimens that are equal on type and color, the one having the best condition of flesh as determined from weight shall win.
Rule Five—In contests where there is an equality in type, color and condition of flesh the one having the best condition of fur shall win.
Rule Six—The above rules are to be applied to senior and six to eight months classes.
Rule Seven—In contests between juniors, the one that shows the most advanced development of good points shall win.
Total assignments made: Type, 55; Color, 20; Condition, 10; Quality of Fur, 15; Equals, 100.
Drawing No. 1
Total length from tip of nose to base of tail, 18 1/2 inches.
Length of head, from end of nose to base of ears, 4 1/2 inches. Length of ears, from base to tip, 5 1/4 inches.
Sides, center of rabbit, from surface to top of back, 5 1/2 inches. From hip to tail, 5 inches.
From hip to center of back, 5 inches.
Total length from tip of nose to base of tail, 19 1/2 inches.
Length of head, from end of nose to base of ears, slightly longer than 4 1/2 inches.
Length of ears, from base to tip, 5 1/4 inches.
Sides, center of rabbit, from surface to top of base, 5 1/2 inches.
Prom hip to tail, 5 inches.
From hip to center of back, 5 inches.
BUCK MEASUREMENTS Between the eyes, 2 1/4 inches.
Belly, at center, across the surface, 6 inches.
Width at shoulders, 6 inches.
Width at hips, 6 1/2 inches.
DOE MEASUREMENTS Between the eyes, 2 inches.
Belly, at tenter, across the surface, 6 inches. Width at shoulders, 6 inches.
Width at hips, 6 1/2 inches.
American Federation of New Zealand Breeders Standard of Perfection
Text of New Zealand White Rabbit Standard—Adopted by the Convention at Tampa, Florida, February 4, 1928—General considerations
The foundation of a breed is its type, and the basis of type considers both size and shape as being its components.
The ideal of the New Zealand type has been that of a specimen presenting a type that is a medium between that of the Flemish Giants on the one side and the Rufus Red Belgian on the other side.
In this conception the extreme raciness of the Rufus Red as well as its fineness of bone are undesirable and to be eliminated. On the other side the extreme massiveness and length of the Flemish Giants is undesirable and to be eliminated.
In general appearance the ideal type of New Zealand should present a rather close coupled, compact frame that is well filled and free from over fatness.
The application of this conception for the specimen as a whole and for its parts, by use of the various measurements laid down in this text and shown in the drawings published in connection herewith.
Ideal total length of rabbit from end of nose to base of tail to be nineteen and one-half inches for does and eighteen and one-half inches for bucks; said line to be determined by caliper measurement according to drawing Number One.
Shall be of a uniform pure white throughout, without a brown or yellowish cast, and of fine texture.
The coat should be even, smooth and glossy; the flesh should be firm and solid.
Type—Head to be medium full from top to bottom with well filled face and jaws, presenting a slight curvature between the eyes and nose, but not so marked as to resemble a fish hook appearance.
Length from end of the nose to a point at right angles with a line drawn from the center of the base of the ears (see drawing No. 1) to be four and one-half inches in bucks and slightly longer in does.
Distance across the head between eyes to be two inches for does and two and one-fourth inches for bucks. (See drawing No. 2.)
Points allowed, 5; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Medium large, bright and expressive.
Points allowed, 3; cuts, one-half to the full limit.
Color—Pink. Points allowed, 1; cuts from one-half to full limit.
Type—Medium full, thick and erectly carried; ideal length to be 5 1/4 inches. Points allowed, 8; cuts, one-half to the full limit.
Head, ears and eyes should give the specimen an alert, intelligent expression.
Type—Medium fullness, medium width, medium boned, rather strong and short coupled.
Does to have evenly carried and medium sized dewlap. No measurements or cuts provided for.
Type—Medium fullness, medium width, medium length, giving a rather short, close and compact appearance.
Length from shoulder to hips, ten inches, for bucks; does, ten and one-half. Width across at shoulders to be six inches; at hips, six and one-half inches. (See drawing No. 2.)
Points allowed, 6; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Medium fullness in appearance; firmly carried, and slightly rounded as they pass from the union with the neck above to the belly below. Average distance of sides from a line at right angles to the back to the surface on which the rabbit rests when properly posed with its front feet extended and its belly resting on the table, to be five and one half inches. (See drawing No. 1.)
Points allowed, 3; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Medium fullness, firmly carried, slightly oval surface but free from potted appearance, save in the case of nursing and pregnant does, for which due allowance should be made.
Average width of belly where it touches the surface on which it rests when the rabbit is posed as in drawing number one, six inches. (See cut No. 2.)
Points allowed, 3; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Front legs to be of medium fullness, straight and strong, with medium length of two and one-half inches from first joint or union with the body to the second joint.
Average circumference of the leg at its smallest point to be two and one-half inches with a gradual increase as the leg approaches the body.
Points allowed, 3; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Medium bone, medium length and size, straight and strong, of even length on both sides.
Length of foot from second joint, to the toes to be six inches. Toe nails to be white.
Circumference of foot to be two inches.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Full, firm, powerful, well rounded out over the back of hips.
Length from hips to tail to be five inches.
Hind legs to be full, firm, stout and straight.
Length of legs from body to second joint, seven inches.
Circumference of leg at its smallest point to be three inches, and to rapidly increase as the leg approaches the body.
Points allowed, 3; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Full, strong and straight, with bone larger than that of front feet. Length from second joint to toes to be five inches. Circumference of foot just below the second joint to be three and one-half inches. Toe nails to be white.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
Type—Straight, medium in size and length, erectly carried over the hind parts and free from crooks or twists of any kind.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from one-half to the full limit.
The New Zealand White being strictly a meat and fur rabbit, particular attention must be paid to the quality of the fur. It should be soft and dense and have as lustrous sheen as possible. Avoid short hair, thin hair and yellowish cast, which shall be penalized strictly.
Points, 25; cuts from 1/2 to the full limit.
The fur coat should be clean, free from hutch stains, smooth, even and glossy, with due allowance being made for nursing does, and moulting specimens.
The flesh should be firm and solid as determined by the weight of the specimen as compared with its size.
Should be free from all signs of sickness or disease.
Three and one-half pounds at two months of age.
Four and one-half pounds at three months of age.
Six pounds at four months of age.
Seven pounds at five months of age.
Seven and one-half pounds at six months of age.
Eight pounds for bucks at eight months of age.
Eight and one-half pounds for does at eight months of age.
Nine pounds for bucks and ten pounds for does at maturity.
Standard Disqualifications
Crooked front or hind feet or legs; crooked spines; wry or twisted necks; tails that arc crooked or have deformed bones; lop ears; ears that arc less than four and one-half inches long; eye lids that turn either in or out upon themselves; blindness of one or both eyes; moon eyes; absence of ear, tail, toe nail or any evidence that a possible blemish that would have disqualified has been removed; any other anatomical or bodily deformity.
Mandolin, Flemish, Belgian or other type than that described in this standard. Senior specimens that are over two inches under or over standard type measurements.
Senior bucks under eight or over 11 pounds, or docs under nine, or over 12, all other specimens that fall under the standard weight of the class in which they are judged.
Specimens that have small Belgian-like bones but are hog fat shall be a subject for disqualification; pot bellied specimens in other than pregnant and nursing does. Specimens showing signs of disease of any kind, either local or constitutional, shall be disqualified from contests in the show room and from the right of being registered.
Any other color other than white.
Designed for the Use of Amateurs, Student Judges and Registrars Cutting for Defects
No specimen should be cut less than one-half a point in any section in which a defect is found, they may be cut to the full number of points provided for in the said section in relation to cither type or color.
Seniors that are over or under the standard type measurements should be cut according to the deviation, this rule to apply to the specimen as a whole and to each of its sections.
Poor condition of coat shall be cut according to the season of the year, with due allowance being made for moulting specimens and nursing does, in which case they deserve a reasonable benefit of the doubt.
SCALE OF POINTS AS PRESENTED IN TEXT Total assignments made: Type, 55; Color, 10; Condition, 10; Fur, 25;
Equals, 100.
Sections Type
Total Length ................................ 5
Head ....................................... 5
Eyes ........................................ 3
Ears ........................................ 8
Back ........................................ 6
Sides ....................................... 3
Belly ....................................... 3
Front Legs .................................. 3
Front Feet .................................. 2
Hind Legs ................................... 3
Hind Feet ................................... 2
Tail ........................................ 2
Weight ..................................... 10
Totals ..................................55
A rich, pure glossy white, entirely free from hairs of any other color.
Points...............15 Cuts.............1 to 5
To be small, neat, compact and alert. To weigh 3 to 3 1/2 pounds. Points.................25 Cuts..................1 to 10
Short, very fine, close and silky.
Points.................20 Cuts..............1 to 10
Short, fine, well rounded and covered with fine fur. To set close together, touching each other all the way, without showing the flanges. Short as possible.
Points.................15 Cuts.................1 to 5
Large, bold and blood red.
Points.................15 Cuts.................1 to 5
Flesh firm, in healthy condition, with fur of good quality, free from moult or stains.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
If weight is over 4 pounds. If eyes are any other color but red. If hairs of any color but white are in the fur. If ears are over 3 inches in length.
The color must be white ground with yellow and black markings, the white very clean, the yellow from a creamy yellow to intense golden yellow or bricky red.
Body—Well knitted together, not too slender, and weight 7 pounds to 9 pounds.
Coat—Thick, soft, set close and the shorter the hair the better.
Eyes—Large, clear chestnut brown in color.
Ears—V-shaped and not longer than 4 3/4 inches and no white.
Markings—Creamy yellow to brick red, butterfly nose, one-half smut black, other half red, reverse color for eye circles; again reverse color for cheek spots; reverse for ears.
Saddle—Must be without interruption, herring boned, and at least 9 3/4 inches long, black, red and yellow and no white.
Ears—Striped with same colors, well defined edge and no white.
Markings—The markings on sides for show purposes should be as well defined as possible in regular formation.
Build of body and ears................................20 points
Regular marking of spots............................30 points
Size ..................................................10 points
Hair and color.........................................30 points
Condition .............................................10 points
Total ...............................................100
Absence of butterfly, white in butterfly, irregular marking, irregularities in upper part of ear, eyes different color, Madagascar color, presence of chain.
Under color in Grays, a rich deep blue black; in Fawns, a bright orange; in Browns, a deep chestnut.
Points.................25 Cuts................1 to 10
Silvering, evenness throughout the entire body.
Points.................20 Cuts................1 to 7 1/2
Ticking, distinct, sharp, bright and evenly distributed.
Points.................15 Cuts................1 to 5
Bold and bright.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Small, neat and erect.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
Thick, short and even length.
Neat, plump, with a good loin and weighing about 6 pounds.
Points.................15 Cuts................1 to 5
Neat and compact, healthy appearance.
Points................. 5 Cuts................1 to 3
When weighing over 7 pounds.
The ideal color in a Gray, white and black. The white is always referred to as the silvering, the black being termed the color. At the tip of the fur the color should be a rich blue black, with plenty of life and lustre in it.
The under color (when the fur is blown aside) should be a blue shade and extend as far towards the roots of the fur as possible. Be sure not to get or encourage an under color or pale, smoky shade, or a fur which is almost white next to the skin. There should be no brown or rusty tinge on the feet or body.
Fawns—Should be of a deep, bright orange shade, extending as far down towards the skin as possible. The color should extend over the body, head, ears, feet and tail. There should be no suspicion of brickiness about the color of a Silver Fawn, neither should it have a gray tinge.
Browns—There are really four colors instead of two. The essential color is the deep, bright chestnut and should extend as far down towards the skin as possible. The bottom color should be a slaty blue, deep and bright, and should not show anywhere except in the bottom half of the fur. Next comes the silvering or white hairs, which should be evenly distributed among the colored ones. Then comes the ticking which should be even all over the rabbit. On the surface of the fur, brown, white, and black must be in evidence and should be in equal proportion.
To be large, broad and shapely, with uniform color to match body, not solid black. Eyes to be dark and uniform color with reposeful expression.
Points.................. 5 Cuts.................1 to 3
Long, strong, thick and erect, well set on with a heavy, stocky base, uniform to match body. Ears to be 5 1/2 inches or more in proportion to body.
Points................. 5 Cuts......................1 to 3
As large and powerful as possible, not flat, with full broad fore and hind quarters. A full plump chest. The body should gracefully arch back from shoulders over hind quarters. Hind quarters to be as thick and massive as possible. Does to have full, large, even carried dewlap.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
To be as large as possible and of powerful, massive build but in proportion throughout.
Points.................15 Cuts.................1 to 5
Bucks shall weigh 12 pounds or more; does 14 pounds or over and as much more as possible.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Strong, straight, large and powerful. Color to match body.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
White hairs must be evenly distributed over entire body, chest, head, feet, ears and tail with evenness of silver throughout.
Points.................25 Cuts.................1 to 10
NOTE—White or silver hairs to be white, full length, not tipped.
CONDITION OF FLESH AND FUR A full, even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness, not dead or dull, firm, solid flesh, fur to be close and soft, free from moult.
Points.................20 Cuts.................1 to 5
Bucks under 10 pounds, does under 11 pounds, ears under 5 1/2 inches, all other general disqualifications. Cut severely for any silver tipped hairs.
Type—Shape fairly compact, not quite so long in body as the Giant Beveren, fine in bone, slight mandolin arch to back and stout hind quarters. Dewlap small as possible in does, none in bucks, 20 points.
Color—Glossy jet black on surface going well down into the fur. Under coat dark blue, 25 points.
Fur—About 1 1/2 inches long, very short, silky, lustrous and dense, 25 points.
Head—Very bold and broad in bucks, comparatively small in does, set on short neck, 5 points.
Eyes—Bright dark brown, rather almond shape and not too prominent, 5 points.
Ears—Well furred, and rather small in proportion to the rabbit. To be carried in a narrow V. The large spoon shaped Flemish type of ear to be avoided, 5 points.
Feet—Fine in bone, legs straight, forelegs short, black toe nails, 5 points.
Adult—Weight, 8 to 10 pounds, 10 points.
Total points, 100.
White hairs on body, short fly back coat.
Faults—Thin or harsh coat, rusty color, excessively pale undercoat. Flat side or lanky shape, small white tip nose or toes. These are to be discouraged, but are not as serious faults as bad color or quality of coat on body.
Note—The Breed is to be judged primarily for fur. The difference between it and all other black breeds being in the exceptional length and silkiness of the fur which must be insisted upon.
Black or blue, dense and sound even color.
Points.................10 Cuts.................1 to 5
Tan, deep, rich golden color. Points....................15
.1 to 5
Large and bright, hazel in black, blue in blue. Points................... 5 Cuts...........
.1 to 3
Short, color to match back.
To weigh from four to five pounds, cobby in shape and compact in form and limb.
Points..................10 Cuts..................1 to 5
DISTRIBUTION OF TAN Triangle (just back of the ears).
Points.................. 5 Cuts..................1 to 3
Fore feet.
Points.................. 5 Cuts..................1 to 3
Hind feet.
Points..................10 Cuts..................1 to 5
Chest, flank and belly.
Points..................10 Cuts..................1 to 5
Nostrils, eyes and jowls.
Points.................. 5 Cuts..................1 to 5
Ears, outer and inner margins.
Points.................. 5 Cuts..................1 to 3
Flesh firm and solid. Fur very close and shining; to be even, in good condition and free from moult.
Points..................10 Cuts..................1 to 5
Specimen over 5 1/2 pounds. Putty nose or white toes. Cut for full white hair, if very conspicuous, disqualify.
NOTE—The head and face must be black, with a ring of tan around each eye, the saddle, back, rump, sides and body and upper part of tail black, the lower part of the sides and rump is brindled. The nostrils, jowl, chest, belly, flanks, and under part of tail should be rich golden tan, the deeper and brighter the better, but bright it must be. The neck behind the ears should have a rich tan mark extending from the base of the ears to the center and shoulders in the form of a triangle, which is the definition given to this neck marking. The base of the triangle behind the ears should form a junction with the tan of the chest, which should run to meet it. In front of the ears and at the base should bo two small tan spots. These should be clear and distinct. The outside of the ears should be black, laced with tan, while the insides should be tan. In the case of Blue and Tan, the word blue must be substituted for black in the above description.
General Disqualifications—Patches of foreign color in solid colored varieties, white toe nails or nails foreign to body color in solid colored English.
Any diseased specimen, sow carrying young, cream or white varieties having black ears or feet, rosettes in any part of coat of English breeds. Blind in one or both eyes, deformities, crooked legs, etc.
Cuts—Torn ears or ears containing holes for the purpose of marking, etc. Seniors to be over four months of age and juniors to be under four months of age. Eye circles and stray colored hair in solid colored breeds.
Abyssinian, Black Abyssinian, Cream Abyssinian, Golden Agouti Abyssinian, Red Abyssinian, Broken Colors Angora (Peruvian Silkies) English, Black English, Blue English, Brindle English, Broken Colors English, Golden Agouti English, Himalayan
English, Red
English, Silver Agouti
English, Tortoise Shell
English, Tortoise Shell and White
English, White
English, Cream
English, Chocolate
English, Dutch
Peruvians, Black
Peruvians, Cream
Peruvians, Broken Colors
Peruvians, Red
Each rosette to raise and radiate evenly all around, with a clearly defined center without break or gap, and to be distributed regularly all over the body; the greater the number the better, providing that each is clear and distinct without running into each other.
Short, harsh and wiry in texture, erect mane running down the back from shoulders to rump, and without flatness or softness of any kind, the scruff or collar to stand erect and pass around the shoulder without any break.
Clear and bright and with plenty of lustre.
Points................ 10
Short and cobby, not flat sided, limbs well formed and closely set without any narrowness or snippiness, plenty of depth to shoulders and hind quarters.
Wide with fair length, nose prominent, with a well developed moustache, covered with harsh, erect coat on cheeks.
Peruvians, White
Large, full and bright.
Points.................. 5
Coat close and thick, flesh firm and hard. Points...................10
Rosettes to rise and radiate evenly all around from a clearly defined center, without any break or gap, and to be distributed regularly all over the body, the greater number the better, providing that each is clear and distinct without running into each other.
Short, harsh and wiry in texture, with erect mane running down the back from shoulders to rump without flatness or softness of any kind, the scruff or collar to stand erect and pass down the shoulder without any break.
Coat close and thick, flesh firm and hard.
To be short and cobby, not flat sided, limbs well formed and closely set without any narrowness with plenty of depth in shoulders and hind quarters.
Wide with fair length, nose very prominent, a well developed moustache covered with harsh, erect coat on cheeks.
Large, full and bright.
Points................. 5
Coat close and thick, flesh firm and hard.
Color—Deep rich red.....................................25 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body medium length...20 points
Ears—To match body, shapely.............................15 points
Eyes—Large and bold.....................................10 points
Feet—Solid color to match body..........................10 points
Coat—Short and silky....................................10 points
Condition ..............................................10 points
REMARKS: Red should be a deep, rich, red color with feet and ears to match.
Color—Deep raven, rich black................................30 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short,
medium .................................................25 points
Coat—Short and silky, free from all corrugations..........15 points
Ears—Slightly drooping, not fallen, with good width between
them ...................................................10 points
Eyes—Big, bold and clear..................................10 points
Condition ..................................................10 points
Color—Pure and even.....................................30 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short,
medium ..............................................25 points
Coat—Short and silky.....................................15 points
Ears—Slightly dropped.................................... 5 points
Feet—Color to match body................................. 5 points
Eyes—Large, bold and clear...............................10 points
Condition—Flesh firm ....................................10 points
REMARKS: A delicate cream is desired, free from a lemon or brass tinge, feet and ears to match.
Color—Pure and even.......................................20 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body medium length.....20 points
Ears—Shapely, color to match body.........................15 points
Coat—Short and silky......................................10 points
Eyes—Large, bold and pink.................................10 points
Feet—To match body color..................................10 points
Condition ................................................15 points
REMARKS: White ears and feet are essential. Smudge and black spots will disqualify.
Color—Deep, rich and even................................30 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body medium length....20 points
Coat—Short and silky.....................................10 points
Ears—To match body, shapely..............................15 points
Eyes—Bold and large...................................... 5 points
Feet—To match body color.................................10 points
Condition ...............................................10 points
REMARKS: Chocolates should be a rich, dark chocolate color, with ears and feet to match.
Color—Deep, rich and even...............................30 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body medium length...20 points
Coat—Short and silky....................................10 points
Ears—To match body, shapely.............................15 points
Eyes—Bold and large..................................... 5 points
Feet—To match body color................................10 points
Condition ..............................................10 points
REMARKS: Blue should be a dark, rich blue, free from rustiness.
Color .....................................................20 points
Evenness of ticking on body, chest and feet................30 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body medium length......20 points
Eyes ......................................................10 points
Ears .......................................................5 points
Coat and condition.........................................15 points
REMARKS Cinnamons should be a cinnamon shade, even and free from eye circles, having even, dark ticking all through, with ears and feet to match.
A Golden Agouti should be of a rich, deep golden hue, with even, dark ticking all through with chest and feet to match. The belly color should be a bright, rich red and as narrow as possible.
A Silver Agouti should be of a bright silver hue, having even, dark ticking all through, with chest and feet to match, the belly color to be
as narrow and near white as possible.
Color ...........................................................20 points
Evenness of ticking on body, chest and feet....................30 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not to be too short....20 points
Eyes ............................................................10 points
Ears ............................................................ 5 points
Coat and condition................................................15 points
Patches—Clean, clear cut and distinct as possible.............25 points
Equal distribution with uniform placing.......................25 points
Color—Red, black and white as in standard of these varieties..20 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short........10 points
Size—Large, well proportioned................................. 5 points
Eyes and Ears................................................. 5 points
Coat—Short and smooth......................................... 5 points
Condition .................................................... 5 points
REMARKS: Colors should not be intermixed or brindle. Patches to be cut clean and evenly distributed.
Color—Red and black.......................................15 points
Patches—Clear and distinct................................45 points
Eyes—Large, bold and clear................................10 points
Coat—Short and silky......................................10 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short.....10 points
Size—Large, well proportioned............................. 5 points
Condition—Firm of flesh................................... 5 points
REMARKS: The colors should be a deep red and black, and equally distributed in small patches, the smaller and more uniform the better.
Blazed and cheeks.............................................15 points
Clean neck....................................................10 points
Saddle .......................................................10 points
Undercut .....................................................10 points
Eyes ..............—.......................................... 5 points
Ears ..............—..........................................10 points
Feet Stops.................................................. 5 points
Size ........-................................................ 5 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short......... 5 points
Color ........................................*...............10 points
Condition .................................................... 5 points
REMARKS: The markings to be placed same as the Dutch marked rabbits.
Nose—Markings well up to eyes...........................15 points
Feet—Markings well carried up...........................10 points
Ears—Black to base......................................10 points
Density of markings.....................................20 points
Purity of white free from brass coloring................15 points
Eyes—Large, bright and reddish color....................10 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short...10 points
Condition ..............................................10 points
REMARKS: Markings to be placed same as the Himalayan rabbit.
Color—Intermixture of red and black........................15 points
Even mixture of colors, clean and distinct.................45 points
Eyes—Large and bold........................................ 5 points
Feet and Ears—Match body color............................. 5 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short......10 points
Size ...................................................... 5 points
Coat ...................................................... 5 points
Condition .................................................10 points
Sweep (rear coat)—Of as uniform length as possible..........15 points
Density of Coat—To be very dense............................15 points
Texture of silkiness of coat................................15 points
Side Sweep—Hair to be as long as possible...................15 points
Color—To be of a solid color, free from off-colored hairs...15 points
Head Furnishing—Fringe should fall well over the shoulders and
furnished so that it falls in a thick mane.............15 points
Condition ..................................................10 points
Sweep (rear coat)—Of as uniform length as possible......15 points
Density of coat—To be very dense........................15 points
Texture of silkiness of coat............................15 points
Side Sweep—Hair to be as long as possible...............15 points

Color—To be of a solid color, free from stray off-colored hairs..10 points
Head Furnishing—Fringe should fall well over shoulders and
furnished so that it falls in a thick mane..................15 points
Condition .......................................................15 points
White toe nails, except when called for. Toe nails in colored varieties not to match body color. Any foreign color in a solid color. Any diseased specimen. Cavies showing signs of carrying young.
Slit or torn ears. Ears punched for marking or showing signs of having an ear tag will not be disqualified, but we wish to discourage this habit.
Junior four months or under. Senior over four months of age.
All cavies entered at shows under national rules not specified in standard will not be passed on by the judges.
This committee feels that there should be a standard and a class on Broken Colored English to encourage the improvement in type especially, also the exhibiting of this class by novices. Standards to be as follows: Color—Any two or more colors. Spots to be as clean cut as possible, free from rough, ragged edges or smudgy or intermingling color ............................................15 points
Shape—Broad shoulders, short Roman nose, body not too short.
High, full crown......................................30 points
Coat—Short and silky.......................................10 points
Ears—Slightly drooping, not fallen, with good width between
them .................................................10 points
Eyes—Big, bold and clear...................................10 points
Condition .................................................15 points
Size—Large as possible.....................................10 points
Our Advertisements
All the firms represented in the following advertisements we believe to be honest and reliable. We request you to patronize them and show them that we appreciate the support they have extended to us in the issuing of this book.
American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, (Inc.)
Topmost Prices
Rabbit Skins
We handle more tame Rabbit skins than any other Raw Fur Receiving House in America and are in position to pay you topmost prices at all times. We buy ALL kinds of Rabbit skins and are in the market for them the year
’round, summer or winter. Ship ALL your Rabbit skins direct to “SHUBERT” at Chicago and know the satisfaction of doing business with this big, live, progressive Fur House. Our honest grading and better prices mean MORE MONEY to you. Try us with a shipment today.
For Your
Price list and shipping tags Free on request Your name and address on a postal will do
“Rabbit Skin Headquarters ”
Dept. A
25-27 W. AUSTIN AVE.
White — Red American Blues Havana Browns
All Stock Registered or Eligible for Registration
Member A. R. & C. B. A. Wheatridge, Colorado R. F. D. No. 1, Box 314
White Flemish Giants
Chinchilla Rabbits
J. LINKS, Proprietor
Breeder of Registered and Pedigreed
NEW ZEALAND REDS Stud Bucks for Service
Reasonable Prices
Licensed Judge and Registrar 306 Wall Street Kalamazoo, Mich.
Breeders and Shippers of High Grade
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Prompt Shippers
Owners of One of the Finest Caviaries in the Northwest
862 Atlantic St. ST. PAUL, MINN. Geo. R. Rieff, Mgr.
Some of the Best at Fair Prices
CHAS. NEIDHARDT 1219 Cherry Ave.
San Jose, Calif.
Member A. R. & C. B. A. Monterey Bay Rabbit Breeders Association
All stock guaranteed as represented. We breed for repeat orders.
2 Months Old....$3.00
5 Months Old.... 6.00
6-7 Months Old
Bred Does .....10.00
We are booking orders for February and March. CHINCHILLA8
2 Months Old....$3.00
2-6 Months Old
$1.50 Each Month Bred Does $10.00 to $25.00 CHECKER GIANTS
Bred Does .....$10.00
Bucks .......... 7.50
Bred Does ......$7.00
Bucks .......... 5.00
Trios 2-4 Months.... 7.00 REGISTERED Other Prices Upon Request
C. B. EPTON, Prop.
R. No. 2, Box 14 Watsonvllle, Calif.
Of Quality
Steel, Sandy, and White
1908 West Street
Grays and Steel Grays of
Popular Colors Standard Bred
Correspondence Cheerfully Answered
Chinchillas on Stahl’s Gold Certificate Strain.
New Zealand Reds on Kerr’s and Stahl’s Strains.
All My Rabbits Are Pedigreed and Some Registered Satisfaction Guaranteed Write Me Your Needs
W. E. Morrison
Inquiries welcomed. Orders filled promptly. We ship to all points. Address
M. C. FRANTZ Whittier, Calif.
R. No. 2, Box 328 E
Gray and White
White and Red
476 N. Main Ashland, Oregon
Fred and Katherine Hayes
Route 3, Box 472 Portland, Oregon
Dairy Goats Bantams Cavies Chinchillas Himalayans Havanas New Zealands
Red or White
rench Silvers and
lemish Giants(White) inest quality br ed-ing Stock Available at all times
C. J. Allen & Son
808 East Second Street Royal Oak, Michigan
'As much for YOUR dollar as we expect for ours”

By getting rid of that nonbreeding trouble. Get your stock to breed and produce, and pay.
which is perfectly harmless. An experienced breeder’s recommendation. Used with success.
when given this treatment to stimulate the sexual organs —male or female. Worth much to all breeders.
This is a tonic, flesh and sexual builder to help stock to breed.
It is just what your animals should have, whether they be rabbits, fox, goats, cavies, or other small animals, pigeons or other birds.
Make your stock profitable breeders. Send for a supply of this remedy TODAY. Don’t wait another moment. Do it NOW. It will pay you to keep a supply on hand in case of emergency.
In 50c and $1.00 sizes, postpaid
----Distributed by----
Dept. Y. B. Holmes Park, Mo.
21 Years a Breeder of Show and Breeding Stock
Rabbit Breeder
Pedigreed French, Silver, American Blue and Chinchilla Rabbits For Sale
Chinchilla Breeding Stock
Write for Prices
5201 South Eye Street
R. E. MEINZER Licensed Judge and Registrar
Monte Vista Colorado
Have the fur and are always “In the Money.” I won on Glen-zar Second, Junior Buck, at Anaheim Convention Show. This Buck is the Sire of a young Buck Alwin who won at Saanichton September, 1927—First in a large class Special for Best Chinchilla in Show—also a Silver Cup for Best Rabbit in Show. I breed my winners. If you want the best, I have it.
P. O. Box 1031 Victoria, B. C.
The World’s Premier Fur Producing Rabbit FOR SALE—Your great opportunity is here. That is Stahl’s Gold Certificate Strain fully Pedigreed and Registered so you will get the very best in Chinchillas. The time to start is NOW, when we offer you such high class stock at very reasonable prices. Remember that rabbits are successfully raised in cold, hot or mild climates—no section of the country is too hot, none too cold to raise rabbits. We also have American White and White New Zealand and Flemish Giants.
Pedigreed Chinchillas Bred from Famous Stahl Strain. Also, Famous Sungold Strain. Breeding Stock For Sale.
Satisfaction Guaranteed
MRS. W. A. WOOLMAN Yoncalla, Oregon
High Class Chinchillas from Registered Bucks and Does
If it is the highest grade foundation stock you want, I have it. Correct color, healthy, and prolific. Prices Right Also Silver Black Foxes, Dalton-Tuplin Strain, at most reasonable prices.
58 Miller Avenue XENIA, OHIO
G. H. HARDISON, Prop. R. No. 1
Bellingham, Wash.
Breeders and Growers of Pedigreed and Registered
Member of A. R. & C. B. A. Whitcome County Rabbit Association
2416 Madrona St. Bellingham, Wash.
Chinchillas, Havanas and Himalayans
Pedigreed and Registered Stock
Satisfaction Guaranteed
H. B. ROYER, Prop. Westminster, Md.
Light, Sandy, and Natural Gray
Flemish Giant Rabbits
All Stock Pedigreed and Prices Reasonable
Member of A. R. & C. B. A.
N. F. F. G. B.
Registered Flemish Giants
Write for Description and Prices
All Stock Sold Guaranteed
905 Humboldt St.
Peoria, Illinois
Flemish Giants
“Breed from the Best To Get the Best”
Satisfaction and a Square Deal Guaranteed
Also A. K. C. Registered
J. E. Shank & Son
Breeder of high class Flemish Giants, Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds, and Cavies. Breeding stock for sale at all times. Satisfaction guaranteed. Write for description and prices.
J. E. Shank & Son
1008 South Main St.
Adrian, Mich.
Pedigreed and Registered Our Hutches Are Headed by GLASS’ SHASTA KING
3rd Baby Buck at San Diego; 1st Senior Buck at Arizona State Fair, Phoenix. Glass' Shasta King was sired by GLASS’ RED SHASTA who was 1st Senior Buck at the great Anaheim, Calif., Show.
Our other winnings at the Arizona State Fair, 1927, Phoenix, Ariz., E. I. Hammond, Judge: 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Senior Does; 1st Doe and Litter.
Our Reds are true to type and color. Money cannot purchase finer stock. We have a limited number of young stock for sale. Address all inquiries
R. F. D. 6, Box 152A
Phoenix, Arizona
2 ounce bottle $ 1.60 8 ounce bottle $3.00 16 ounce bottle $5.00 Post paid
All orders are sent out promptly. Remit by check or money order.
Send all orders to A. K. Rae,
R. 1. Upland, Calif.
“Atta Boy”
One of Our Line of Prize Winning Stud Bucks
3131 Burton Ave. Lynwood, Cal.
Member A. R. & C. B. A. A. F. of N. Z. B. Licensed Registrar President Southeast Rabbit Club
Broadway Fur Farm
Chinchilla and White New Zealand Rabbits
From High Quality Registered Stock Guaranteed to Please
3621 Broadway R. 5, Boise, Idaho
New Zealand Reds Exclusively
Pedigreed Stock For Sale at All Times Write Me Your Wants
When the boom on breeding stock subsides and we settle down to a meat and fur proposition, be sure that you have Chinchillas with long, dense, silky, well-colored, well-ticked fur. I specialize on Chinchillas of that kind. Prices reasonable on Guaranteed-to-Register Stock.
ShellsburG, Iowa
“Sion Rabbitry”
R. R. 1
Busby, Alberta
Chinchillas bred from pedigreed stock. Parents prize winners. Also New Zealand Whites.
Alberta’s best Dark Muskrats. Lake or pen raised. Prices right.
Write and tell us what you have to exchange and get our prices.
Chinchillas, White Beverens, Black Siberians JOS. F. JUZA, Proprietor Husum, Wash.
America’s Best
Member of A. R. & C. B. Ass’n and N. F. of F. (i. B.
Registered and Pedigreed PRICES ON REQUEST CONVOY, OHIO
The Turtle Mountain Rabbitry Stahl’s Gold Seal, Northern Grown Chinchillas M. J. FARNAND Bottineau, North Dakota
TORTOISE-SHELL and WHITE and SOLID REDS All of the noted Taylor (Manchester, England) strain
AGOUTIS, mixed colors, SELF-BLACKS, and SELF-REDS The last being of the well-known Harrison (Leicester, England) strain PRICES REASONABLE
EDWARD M. TRABER, 16 N. B St., Hamilton, Ohio
MEMBER American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders’ Association and OF Cavy Breeders of America
The big massive fellows with heavy bone, length, and quality. Farm raised. Registered or eligible. Pedigrees show weights and show records of ancestors. Satisfaction guaranteed or money refunded. Inquiries and orders given prompt personal attention. Write before you buy.
Farm Route 4 AMES, IOWA
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Member: A. R. & C. B. A., A. F. G. A., D. R. C. B. A.
10449 Sterritt DETROIT, MICH.
Breeders of
Young and Mature Stock For Sale
Pedigree and Register Stock
All stock can be pedigree but all stock cannot be registered.
Write for Prices
The Turnock Rabbitry
At Colorado Springs, the last important show before this book went to print, there was keen competition, some of the biggest Chinchilla breeders in America, competing with many exhibits. With fourteen entries I took nine places:
2 Firsts
3 Seconds
1 Third
1 Fourth
2 Sevenths
Best Display of Chinchillas
I will supply judges and breeders who need stock to fill their demands, with good Chinchillas at reasonable prices
The Turnock Rabbitry
B. K. TURNOCK, Proprietor 1706 N. Chestnut Street Colorado Springs, Colorado
MRS. C. E. VEST, Proprietor
Pedigreed and Registered Chinchillas and Blue Beveren
Wenatchee, Wash. Route No. 2
P. A. FRANKS and E. F. KELLY, Proprietors
We have the best grade of English cavies that money can buy. You will have to see our fine healthy stock to appreciate them. Laboratory cavies and breeding stock at all times.
Our rabbits are bred from the best obtainable stock. New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas.
We also carry a complete line of supplies. All orders and correspondence promptly taken care of. Satisfaction guaranteed or your money refunded.
A New Book
The Rabbit That Is Making the American Rabbit Industry By Edw. H. Stahl
Every man or woman interested in the wonderful Chinchilla Rabbit—in producing the best breeding and show stock—and in making real money out of their business in raising rabbits—should read this interesting and practical book. It contains the secrets of successful Chinchilla Rabbit raising, boiled down for the busy reader and practical breeder, who wants to know the essential things he should know to make a success of the enterprise.
Here is a Brief Review of Some of the Things it- Covers STANDARD CHINCHILLAS
All about this magnificent breed; how to raise, house, feed, and general care; what a real Chinchilla Rabbit should be; weights at all ages from weaning time to maturity; history; also pictures showing the real Chinchilla Animal and comparison made as to color with the now famous Chinchilla Rabbit. This section is also illustrated with many other fine photographs, etc.
All about this breed of the Chinchilla Rabbit Family; its advantage over the standard Chinchilla Rabbit—if any—showing photos of many fine specimens—also weights which the rabbits should make from month to month up to maturity. Other important features, etc.
What is an American Chinchilla Giant? Will it ever become popular? The advantages and disadvantages of this breed; splendid photographs of America's finest specimens; table of weights from weaning age to maturity, etc.
Even the latest standards are published—with full explanation, in clear detail, so that anyone reading same, will be able to understand the Chinchilla Rabbit Family, and how to judge them.
---64 Pages and Cover-
Order Your Copy Today From:—
(Remember, Your Money Back If You Are Not Entirely Satisfied)

We specialize in New Zealand Reds, “That are Red"; Black and White Dutch, and Champagne de Argent Rabbits. Cavies, both Fancy and Laboratory Stock. Get our Buy Back Contract.
Box 848, Oklahoma City, Okla.
KNOWN THE WORLD ROUND NONE BETTER A Few Unsolicited Testimonials That We Give Satisfaction
The New Zealand Buck Repeater Z-1140, which I purchased from you some time ago won the first prize at the Columbus. Ohio Show, in 6 to 8 months class, showing in a class of 5 all of them being very good specimen. G. H. Dutton, 255 N. State St., Marion, Ohio.
The New Zealand Doe arrived today noon, and I am well pleased with her. F. A. Patterson, Durand, Ill.
Taylors O-Wa-Ko-Pe Z-1107 arrived in good condition and I am well pleased with him. He is a very handsome addition to a bunch of New Zealands that I have. Rev. Guy Davis, Clayton, N. Mexico.
This is to advise you that I received the New Zealands Tuesday night. They arrived in fine shape and sure look fine. Thanking you for your courtesy in this shipment, E. D. Moden, Winslow, Ariz.
Taylors Du Fresne was delivered by the Express Co., in good condition. I am very much pleased with this New Zealand Doe, could not ask for a better one, and I thank you kindly for giving the selection your personal attention, and sending me such a fine specimen. John P. Akin, 1205 Burnett St., Wichita Falls, Texas.
The New Zealands arrived safely in good condition. I think they are splendid and I thank you for making a good selection. John Sirman, P. O. Box 522, Vodosta, Ga.
I am writing to tell you that the New Zealand Buck arrived O. K., and we can hardly express our thanks to you for shipping us such a fine Buck. He is everything you said he was and a little more. We are well satisfied with him and thank you for you shipment. Mr. and Mrs. C. E. Knight, 1214 Randolph St., Grand Rapids, Michigan.
We are breeders and shippers of New Zealands, Chinchillas, Flemish, Belgians and other breeds. Write us your wants.
We carry a full line of supplies for the Rabbitry, your business is solicited and orders carefully filled.
Send for our free price lists of Rabbits and Supplies.
22 Lang Avenue
Hapeville, Georgia
FOR SALE—Breeding and Laboratory Stock at all times. Live delivery guaranteed. Write your wants and for prices and color wanted.
All orders F. O. B. Ottawa, Ohio.
506 W. Main Street Ottawa, Ohio
Breeders and Shippers of Blue Eyed White Beverens Standard and Giant Chinchillas Stahl’s Gold Certificate Strain Pedigreed and Guaranteed to Register
Breeder of High Grade Stock
Chinchilla Giants — Standards — White Flemish Giants and Grays — White New Zealands All Stock Pedigreed
1127 North 11th Street Quincy, Illinois
R. F. D. 2 — Box 33 Temple, Arizona
Licensed Judge and Registrar
STOCK FOR SALE AT ALL TIMES 1862 E. 66th Street Los Angeles, California
Open for Judging Engagements
Langford Station, Victoria, B. C., Canada
Winnings in 1927: 2 Silver Cups, 3 Championships,
34 Firsts, and 25 Seconds
Small Stock Magazine
Read by small stock breeders from coast to coast and from the Gulf of Mexico to Northern Canada.
It Gives You:
1. America’s best service to small stock breeders.
2. Reports of the foremost shows from every section.
3. News of the small stock world from everywhere.
4. News of the various organizations, local and national.
5. Educational articles of the highest value.
6. An interesting and instructive Fur Farming department.
7. Everything to make it true to name.
SMALL STOCK MAGAZINE is recognized today as America’s leading Result Bringing Medium for small stock breeders, and its columns are used by the country's greatest breeders. Subscription price $1 per year; 3 years for $2. Published by
Blair Printing Co.
Member A. R. & C. B. A.
Telephone 282
P. O. Box 1103
Medford, Oregon
Pedigreed and Registered Stock Only
We breed Sandy Grey and Natural Grey Flemish From imported and championship strains. Ideals in Type and Quality. All stock sold Standard in weight and type.
Where Price, Quality and our full Guarantee meet the demand of the most careful buyer.
K S. BARNHILL, Manager
N. Alameda Rd. Las Cruces, New Mexico
Reference: Mesilla Valley Bank, Las Cruces, New Mexico
Can you not be suited with one of the following four breeds? They being the very best four Utility Breeds known. Here you have both size and beauty, as well as two of the best fur breeds, and every one hardy and prolific.
Now these are all business Rabbits, but yet any can be, and are, used for pets; and why not? Do we not wish to own pets we can feel proud of? Make your wishes known to us, fully, and we will then quote prices upon young or old stock. Remember this: Cheap foundation stock means you’ll always have to take a low price for your product, so start right.
Yours truly,
J. F. BRIDGES, Newfield, Maine.
But Real Ones
Satisfaction Guaranteed or Money Refunded
R. H. RAHN, Prop.
Breeder and Exhibitor of Flemish Giants, Havanas, and New Zealand Reds
Pedigreed and Registered Stock for Sale Member of the A. R. & C. B. A. Inc., E. R. B. A., and Havana Club 69 Noble St.
Pels, Birds, and Rabbits
410 Plumer Street, Wausau, Wis. Enclose 2ȼ Stamp for Reply
Earl S. Days, Mgr.
Member A. R. & C. B. A.
202 Grandview Ave. Wadsworth, Ohio
Breeders of
Pedigreed New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas
State your wants and we will answer promptly what we have for sale. You must be satisfied.
THREE TIMES THE LIGHT From Your Kerosene Lamps with STEEL MANTLED BURNERS Smokeless and Odorless Ask your dealer for them; if he can't supply you send us his name and address and your name and address with 50 cents for a sample or $1.00 for three burners. Money back of not satisfactory. AGENTS WANTED. GREAT MONEY MAKER. Send for Particulars, Prices, and Samples.
1299 S. Main St.
Adrian, Mich.
Satisfaction Guaranteed F. R. METCALF
R. F. D. 10 Fort Wayne, Ind.
Member of A. F. N. Z. B.
Finest Chinchilla and New Zealand Rabbits
Always Some Good Stock in These Breeds Prices Reasonable
Route 1 Hood River, Oregon
Member of
A. R. & C. B. A. A. C. B. A. A. G. G. A.
Breeder and Shipper of
Pedigreed Standard Chinchillas
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Route 5, Box 35 Council Bluffs, Iowa
Breeder and Exhibitor of High Grade
New Zealand Reds and Standard Chinchillas
A Few Good Young Ones Generally on Hand at Fair Prices
All Breeders Registered and Pedigreed Certified Pedigree Furnished 435 E. Maiden St. Washington, Pa.
Member A. R. & C. B. A.
Proprietors 1782 Glasgow Ave. Ogden, Utah
Belgian Hares and Chinchillas
Prices Reasonable
Satisfaction Guaranteed
All Stock Raised in Sanitary Self-cleaning Outdoor Hutches — Which Insures Healthy Stock
Don’t Let the Belgian Hare Die — Buy Stock From Us and Be a Booster
Come on you Belgian Breeders, LET’S GO!
Write us for Prices
-Bred for vigor, fur quality, and profitable meat production.
-Select 4-pound youngsters my specialty. Price: $2 each.
-Decide! Act! Write for valuable leaflet.
Abington, Conn.
“ Built for Business”
New Zealand Red RABBITS
Westwood Chinchillas, Elmhurst Angora Woolers, Elmhurst Argent de Champagne, and Dutch Rabbits
Our Strain Will Help You Win in These Popular Varieties Smooth Cavies, Blacks, Whites, Creams, Reds
Also Tortoise and Whites, Golden Agoutis, Silver Agoutis, Abyssinians and Peruvians
Our wins at the Canadian National Exhibition, the Royal Winter Fair 1927, and two other Toronto shows, all during the past three months, are as follows: 1 championship, 3 cups, 11 specials, 2 medals, 1 rosette, 23 firsts, 14 seconds, 10 thirds, etc. Included in the above are Best Rabbit in Show, Best Chinchilla in Show (twice), Best Cavy in Show (twice), Best Pair of Cavies in Show.
Correspondence Invited
Member C. S. B. A., C. F. F. A., and A. R. & C. B. A.
95 Uxbridge Ave.
Toronto, Ont, Canada
Associated and in partnership with Ebor Caviary, owned by T. Wragg, 281 Jarvis St., Oshawa, Canada.
Steel and Black from Registered Stock Also Shipper of Meat Stock Satisfaction Guaranteed
Box 195 No. Dartmouth, Mass.
Flemish Giants — White, Steel, Gray New Zealand Reds
WALTER J. FINGER, Proprietor Pedigreed and Registered Rabbits R. F. D. No. 3 Saginaw, Michigan
I specialize in raising THOROUGHBRED CHINCHILLAS It Costs No More to Keep Good Stock — Profits Greater All Stock Pedigreed and Registered if Desired Prices Reasonable. Write
922 South B Street Arkansas City, Kansas
Here Is Your Chance for Quality Stock
White Blue-Eyed Beverens and Chinchillas Guaranteed to come up to all standard qualifications. Our Beverens are of a very heavy type and are very hardy rabbits, originally from imported stock. Our motto is: “Quality before Quantity.”
GUARANTEED TO SATISFY H. L. Schilling’s Rabbitry and Pet Farm Norfolk, Nebr.

R. F. D. 1, Via Nashua
Thornton’s Ferry, N. H.
Flemish Giants Gray — Steel — Black
R. A. JONES Licensed Judge 1330 W 11th St.
L. A. JONES Proprietor Lorain, Ohio
The Gordon Blues — White and Blue Beverens BREEDING STOCK FOR SALE E. BAIRD
Burlington, Wash.
W. D. JONES, President
703 West llth St. North Platte, Nebr.
MELVIN E. BEHRENS, Secretary-Treasurer XO East 6th St. Columbus, Nebr.
“A Quality Organization with a Quantity Membership”
Our Future Rests Upon Your Support
Chinchillas — Stahl's Gold Certificate
Introducing Our Own
Are Our Specialty
One of Our Black Bucks Will Help You to Breed Better Steels
ALL STOCK Sold Is From REGISTERED Parents We Also Have Steels and Grays, All Bred for Weight Pure Salt Spools, 50ȼ Doz. Postpaid
Chinchillas and Havanas
They are the fur rabbits. If you have one breed try the other. In making up furs it is a good combination.
We have selected for fur qualities in our healthy rabbits. Havanas are the near MINK RABBIT.
Our Havanas came from Brown’s X Rabbitry.
We have a water and feed dish holder that is used extensively by Fox Ranchers. SAVES OPENING HUTCH, TIME, LABOR, and is reasonable. Write for particulars.
127 N. Thompson Jackson, Mich.
The Eastern Rabbit Breeders’ Association
Chartered with A. R. & C. B. A., Inc.

Invites Your Membership
Solicits Your Patronage
An organization conducted on sound business principles, with a thorough understanding of the word progress.
Offering innumerable advantages, with a service bureau to supply members with all the requirements most essential to their individual needs.
Consistently working for the advancement of the rabbit industry, with a full knowledge of its possibilities.
Particulars upon request.
Albert E. Facey, Jr., Sec’y-Treas.
25 Benedict Ave., Valley Stream, L. I., N. Y.
THE BIG KIND Weight from 14 to 17 Pounds
I Can Furnish Extra Fine, Large Breeding Stock Reasonably
R. No. 8, Box 205 Phoenix, Arizona
KARL SAUTTERS, Owner Licensed Judge and Registrar Just the Place to Obtain Excellent Stock in
Champagne de Argents — Lilacs and Havanas
Show Winners and Breeding Stock For Sale 1020 Roslyn Ave., S. W. Canton, Ohio
All Colors
14 to 20 Pound Breeders OREN S. COLE
liRed All the Way Round” EDITH E. COLE
2361 Westridge Court Ferndale, Micii.
YOUR MONEY BACK IF NOT SATISFIED Young and Mature Stock At All Times Check Up Our Show Winnings—All Stock Pedigreed Licensed Registrar A. R. & C. B. Ass’n
Offers Breeding Stock for Sale from the
Pine View Strain of “Quality New Zealand Reds”
Bred for
Economical Production of Meat, Vigor, Size, and Color All Stock Sold Is Fully Pedigreed and Guaranteed to Satisfy in Every Way My Prices Are Reasonable Your Correspondence Will Be Given Prompt and Courteous Attention
NORMAN W. AMIDON, Owner Abington, Conn.
Licensed Judge
Breeder and Exhibitor of
Chocolate and Black
Prize Winners at Most of the Large Shows
1134 S. Seneca St. WICHITA, KANSAS
We make a business of raising Chinchilla Giants, first class stock, the kind you want for foundation stock. All stock entered in shows has won prizes, mostly firsts.
Max Freudenberg, Prop.
R. F. D. 3 LaSalle, Ill.
Member American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders’ Ass’n LICENSED JUDGE AND REGISTRAR
Satisfaction Guaranteed
R. F. D. No. 1, Box 106 Clintonville, Wis.
FRED T. WITT, Proprietor Breeder and Exhibitor of Rabbits in
Geo. Heffner
28 Palm Drive
Arcadia, Calif.
Entered twenty-two rabbits in the Western Colorado A. R. & C. B. A. Show, 1927, Lewis S. J. Griffin, Judge. Won twenty-one ribbons, eight firsts, also first in fur and sweepstakes on Chinchilla doe, six seconds, five thirds.
Successful breeder of Heavyweight Chinchillas.
Our breeders are registered and all stock sold is guaranteed to be eligible for registration.
We also have Hesketh Blue Foxes. Breeders are registered and pen bred for six generations.
Member of A. R. & C. B. A., A. C. B. A., W. C. R. & C. B. A.
Redlands, Grand Junction, Colorado
Box 275, Handley, Texas
M. BENNETT, Prop, and Breeder of
Standard Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds Registered, Pedigreed, and Commercial Stock “Quality First”
All Stock Guaranteed to Please. Reasonable Prices Write Me Your Wants
Correspondence Invited Member A. R. & C. B. A.
A. W. Stevens, Proprietor
Route 2, Box 120, Medford, Oregon
All Stock Pedigreed and Registered
Prices Right. Correspondence a Pleasure Write Your Wants
. . . of. . .
Have Won Wherever Shown “Flemish That Are Giants”
Pedigreed and Registered
Steel—Gray—Black White a Specialty
Youngsters and Matured Breeders for Sale at all Times in Above Colors
Pennsylvania Manager for A. R. & C. B. A. and Supervisor for N. F. F. C. B. A.
Licensed Registrar
329 Cherry St. Norristown, Pa.
The Journals
We have several journals devoted to our industry and all breeders should subscribe for one or more of them and keep posted and learn the progress being made in all sections of the country. You should also read our association news each month as this news is written for the benefit of our members so as to keep them posted and it is very important that you read them each month.
You will find our association news published in the following journals every month and much other useful information pertaining to our industry:
Small Stock Magazine................$1.00 per year
Lamoni, Iowa
Fur Animals.........................$2.00 per year
Holmes Park, Missouri
The Pet Stock Journal...............$1.00 per year
Galion, Ohio
Pacific Coast Rabbit Journal........$1.00 per year
Box 594, Arcade Station, Los Angeles, California
Successful Rabbit Breeding..........$1.00 per year
Kalamazoo, Michigan
A. Weygandt, Secretary
W. B. PADGET Mt. Washington Cincinnati, Ohio W. PARRY, Chairman 1041 Pine St. Cincinnati, Ohio
GUS HESSLER Bernard Ave. Mt. Healthy, Ohio CHAS. E. DO BELL 4351 Columbia Ave. Cincinnati, Ohio
SHERMAN EADS R. R. 16 — Box 305 Mt. Healthy, Ohio W. JULIEN 2119 Feldman Norwood, Ohio
GEO. W. WASH 8421 Anthony Wayne Ave. Hartwell, Ohio JOE BRUGGEMAN 111 West University Ave. Cincinnati, Ohio
H. JULIEN 2119 Feldman Norwood, Ohio JOHN BALTON 3777 Hutton Ave. Cincinnati, Ohio
FRANK KIEFEL, Sr. R. R. 11 —Box 39 Mt. Healthy, Ohio W. NELLER 8241 Anthony Wayne Ave. Hartwell, Ohio
The Greater Cincinnati Rabbit Breeders and Fanciers Association
JOHN J. LENERT, President 316 Main Ave., Elmwood Pl. Cincinnati, Ohio
BOYD TAYLOR, Vice-President 12 Beech St. Southgate, Newport, Kentucky
FRED HUTCHINSON, Treasurer 1148 Cedar Ave., College Hill, Cincinnati, Ohio
CLYDE OURSLER, Secretary 1525 Race St. Cincinnati, Ohio
Totim Chinchillas Lead AT
A. R. & C. B. Ass’n Convention Shows
1927—Tampa—Three firsts and best Chinchilla
Chinchilla doe, C 12, Grand Champion doe of show, all breeds competing
Brentwood Bay, Victoria, British Columbia
White Beverens, first senior doe; first junior doe and best White Beverens
Route 2 — Box 140
Pueblo, Colo.
1926—Anaheim—Three firsts and best Chinchilla doe
Breeders and exhibitors of Superlative Chinchilla. Consistent winners in strong competition, winner of most coveted prize, first and special on fur qualities of our wonderful Chinchilla at Colorado State Fair, 1926. First Senior Buck and Grand Champion at Colorado State Fair, 1927, and First Junior Doe, Colorado State Fair, 1927. First and Third Senior Bucks (26 in class) and Third Junior Buck, Colorado Springs, Colo., 1927—placed five of eight entries.
Have First Junior Doe, Anaheim, Calif., convention show, 1926. First Junior Doe, Victoria, B. C., January, 1927, and Second Junior Buck.
Numerous Other Winnings
Mrs. J. W. Kyffin, manager
General Delivery
Uniontown, Pa.
Breeder and Shipper of Registered and Pedigreed
Flemish Giants Steel, Natural Gray and Black New Zealand Red New Zealand White Black Dutch and English Cavies
Stock for Sale at all times They Must Please
CHAS. A. LAMB Proprietor Thornville, Ohio
Just A Backyard Rabbitry
White Flemish New Zealand Reds
107 So. Chester Ave. Pleasantville, N. J.
MILLE LANDBERG Proprietor Wilmington, Illinois
Imported French Silvers French Lop Rabbits Champ, de Argent also
Swedish and Danish White Rabbits
The Great Fur and Meat Rabbits
STOCK FOR SALE Correspondence Solicited
JAMES L. BINGLEY Proprietor Fitchburg, Mass.
Standard price $1.00 per month, up to and including six months of age. Other stock and Cavies. Write for prices. Our Motto:
"Square Deal for All” Corresponding Secretary for “Worcester Branch, Massachusetts State Rabbit Breeders Association”
Member A. R. & C. B. A. Member N. F. F. G. B.
“Breeders of Quality”
Flemish that are Giants Chinchillas that Ring True
Licensed Judge and Registrar
521 Meade Street Denver, Colorado
Breeders of
New Zealand Whites Chinchillas and Himalayans
Official Registrar Superior Quality Stock
1901 S. Seneca St., Box 96A
Wichita, Kansas
A New Magazine Devoted to the Interests of Rabbits and Cavies In All Their Phases
The editor has had thirty years’ experience in Fair and Show Work and is now Licensed Judge and Registrar for The A. R. & C. B. Association
PUBLISHED MONTHLY C. E. FAIRCHILD, Editor 50c Per Year — 3 Years $1.00
Meat and Fur Rabbits
Mostly Giants and Mainly Flemish
Also Laboratory Cavies
Importer and Breeder of Chinchilla Rabbits, Silver Black Foxes. Doberman Puns-cher Dogs, from the famous and most noted Int. Nat. Champions of Holland and Steger. Winners in Germany, Champion Pruiz Carlo, Von Der Konnigstad, and Champion Benno Von Romerhof. Three Times Champion of Holland and Steger, Winner in Germany. Pups line bred from these famous dogs, and 1st prize winners for sale.
P. B. BREWSTER, Prop. 119th St. and 86th Ave. Palos Park, Ill.
Member A. R. & C. B. A.
High Grade Havana Rabbits
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Prices Reasonable
Jersey Black, Giant Chickens, Eggs Only
W. D. JONES, Prop.
703 W. 11th St.
North Platte, Nebr.
Breeders and Exhibitors of Pedigreed and Registered Chinchillas and White Flemish Giants, winning three 1st, one 2nd, and two Grand Champions at Nebraska State Fair, Lincoln, out of a class of 48. All Stock sold Guaranteed.
Official Registrar
Member of A. R. & C, B. A., N. F. of F. G. B., A. C. R. B. A., Nebraska R. & C. B. A.
Registered Police Pups for Sale
255 Boyce-Greeley Bldg. Sioux Falls, S. D.
Importers — Breeders — Exhibitors DR. BORST’S “BLUE RIBBON” STRAIN CHINCHILLAS
What Does It Mean To You
To have the best possible BUCK to head your herd?
With a BUCK or DOE from Dr. F. H. Borst’s “BLUE RIBBON” strain CHINCHILLAS, you are guaranteed to increase the length, density and color of your fur as well as to give you that heavy type standard animal you have been looking for.
We have bought from the best, bred from the best up to a certain standard, and while we do not claim that we have the ONLY fine stock in the world, we DO claim there is none better.
We cater to old breeders, people that KNOW rabbits. We know that we can please you. To the new beginners we assure you that we can furnish you with the best to be had.
We positively guarantee every animal to be exactly as represented. Full purchase price will be refunded on any stock not up to our description if returned within five days from date of purchase, in good health and condition.
That Takes in a Lot of Territory. Mostly Unclaimed
We recently entered a White Flemish Buck five months old at one of the largest shows of the season, in the Junior class, but on account of the INEFFICIENCY of some one connected with the show, our BABY BUCK was SWITCHED into the SENIOR CLASS, and still he WON against strong competition. That denotes QUALITY. We can’t help winning. We have been doing it for the past five years. Read ’em.
1923—7 firsts; 1 second; 1 third; 3 fourths; 1 fifth; Best Sandy Gray. Utah State Fair. Gibson, Judge.
1 924—Won 7 out of 15 silver cups. Best Display Steel, Black, Blue and Sandy Flemish. Best Display Flemish All Varieties. Best Display Dressed Rabbit Meat. (We kill a lot of ’em.) Best Display ALL BREEDS COMPETING, DEAD OR ALIVE. 14 firsts; 16 seconds; 11 thirds; 14 fourths; 7 fifths. Utah State Fair. Griffin, Judge.
1925— In 28 classes we won 28 firsts; 10 seconds; 5 thirds; 5 fourths; 3 fifths. Best Display Steel, Light Gray, Sandy Gray, Black and Blue Flemish. Best Display all varieties. Sweep-stakes. Utah Fair. Carter, Judge.
1926— In 34 classes: 25 firsts; 17 seconds; 10 thirds; 7 fourths, 5 fifths. Best Display Steel, Black, Blue, Sandy and Light Gray Flemish. Best Display Flemish, all varieties. Best Display Lilacs, White Beverens, CHINCHILLAS. Best Display ALL BREEDS COMPETING. Utah Fair. Fehr, Judge.
ANAHEIM CONVENTION SHOW—4 firsts; 5 seconds; 2 thirds; 3 fourths. Best Display White Flemish, All Varieties Flemish, Special on White Beverens. Best Display from Utah. Best Blue Beveren in North America. Numerous other Specials under Fehr, Carter and Griffin, Judges.
1927— OREGON STATE FAIR—2 firsts; 2 seconds. GRAND CHAMPION BUCK. Griffin, Judge.
Brockton, Mass.—3 firsts; three entries. Schultz, Judge. Grand Junction, Colo.—6 firsts; 1 third. Griffin, Judge. Kansas National Stock Show—12 Classes—12 firsts; 2 seconds; 1 third; 1 fifth. Best Steel, Sandy Gray, White Flemish. Best Flemish in show. Best Fur Rabbit. Griffin, Judge.
Norco, Calif.—3 entries—3 firsts. Green, Judge.
Colorado Springs—12 classes—9 firsts; 2 seconds; 3 fourths;
1 fifth; Second and Seventh Best Fur Rabbit. Reed Storm, Judge.
Sterling, Colo.—12 classes—11 firsts; 3 seconds; 1 third. Denver, Colo.—5 entries—FIVE FIRSTS. BEST FLEMISH IN SHOW.
Spokane, Wash.—2 entries—2 firsts. Best Flemish in show. Trace our blood lines back to “Allendale Ace,” "Country Gentleman,” “Supremacy,” “Gray Knight,” "Master Piece,” “Jack of Clubs,” “David 1st,” and “Chief White Cloud,” who died in disgust at Denver after traveling from Coast to Coast in search of close competition, but could not find it, except in our own rab-bitry. NO WONDER THEY WIN.
Importer and Breeder of Chinchillas, Lilacs, White Beverens, and
2435 So. 5th East Salt Lake City, Utah
Member All Leading Clubs Licensed Judge and Registrar
We win wherever we show. So would you if you had our Strain of Rabbits. We won first on Fur Rabbit, first on Fur Coat, also won on Fur Hides. All Chinchillas. Our Strain of Chinchillas sure won the prizes at the Colorado State Fair 1927. I have some good stock at all times. Write for prices and win. We took Grand Championship at Colorado Springs at the Convention Show of the A. R. & C. B. A. 1925.
LEE RABBITRY Superior Quality Chinchillas 2113 R. Evans Ave.
Pueblo, Colo.
Chinchilla and New Zealand Whites
Flemish Giants
Stahl's Gold Certificate Chinchillas Pigeons and Police Dogs JEANNETTE WELCH
R. F. D. No. 1, Via Nashua Thorntons Ferry, N. II.
All Pedigreed and Registered Also a Full Line of Rabbit Supplies Largest Stock of Supplies in Southern Oregon
E. V. JONES, Prop.
363 Helman Street Ashland, Oregon
The Spokane Annual Winter Show to be held in January each year. Entries open to the world
For Premium List, Dates, or Information Write
R. F. D. No. 7 Spokane, Wash.
The Supreme Success of All Magazines Devoted to the Rabbit and Fur Animal Industry
(Formerly “American Rabbit and Cavy Journal’’)
It is the only monthly journal that actually meets the need of all those who are raising or interested in rabbits and other fur-bearing animals.
Learn How
Profitable Stock
Such as Rabbits, Foxes, Mink, Skunk, Muskrats, Opossums, Etc.
It’s the Biggest Help for Breeders Everywhere
Below is a partial list of the regular items that appear in every number of this monthly. Things of vast importance to all breeds—
Selection and Breeding of Stock—Feeding—Housing—Plans —Hutches—General Care of Stock—Markets for Breeders— Fur Markets—Meat Markets—Practical Cashing in Ideas— Show and Association News—Splendid Illustrations, Etc.
Your prosperity may depend on whether or not you write your name and address on the coupon below. DO IT NOW!
Tear Off Tiffs Coupon and Mail it in TODAY
115 G. B. East 31st St., Kansas City, Missouri.
Gentlemen: For the enclosed dollar please enter my name on the subscription list of “FUR ANIMALS" to receive the magazine for
one year—commence with.......................issue. If I am not
more than satisfied with first three issues, I am to tell you, and my money is to be returned.
Name.......................St. or R.F.D........................
City.......................... State......................
SPECIAL:—One set of plans “CASHING IN ON HARES” will be given FREE with each subscription, while the limited number of plans last. You can get a copy if you send in your subscription NOW.
Griffin’s Rabbitry
812 East Costella St. Colorado Springs, Colo.
The Colorado Wizard Strain of
Flemish Giants
Steels, Sandys, Light Grays, and Whites 12 to 17 lbs. also
White New Zealands 9 to 1 1 lbs.
When you want new blood write Judge Griffin. We have all ages, priced as per quality, $5.00 and up.
Griffin’s Pedigree Books
Best and most up-to-date obtainable, they give full particulars regarding ancestors, winnings, color, weights. Record of saleprice, saves bookkeeping. Retail price: 25 and duplicate in book form, $1.00, postpaid. 100 and duplicate in book form, $2.50, postpaid.
Agents Wanted
Judge Griffin
Will consider engagements for judging from September to March. Write him your show dates. If connections can be made on his regular chain of shows, terms more reasonable owing to less railroad expenses. Address, 812 East Costella St., Colorado Springs, Colo.
Phone No. 287-W-1
Vema Rose Rabbit Farm
W. B. GARLAND Licensed Judge and Registrar R. D. No. 1 North Canton, Ohio
Breeders of “WHITE STAR”
435 Rice St., St. Paul, Minn.
My Motto: “Satisfied Customers”
That’s my specialty; look at above photo, and judge for yourself. That’s the type of Chinchillas I raise, standard in every way, and above all, they have the FUR. I have a few for sale at all times, either sex. Correspondence a real pleasure. All stock sold with money back guarantee.
Box 45, Eureka, S. Dak.
Member A. R. & C. B. A. and A. C. R. B. A.
How to Make Rabbits Pay
Is the vital question among many breeders. “Know how” by sending for a copy of our informative and illustrated booklet. It’s FREE. The Clifton strain does all we claim. Let’s show you “how” we built our big rabbit business. Write us today.
Dept. 24 Clifton, Colorado
L. S. FARVER & SONS Proprietors
Tonasket, Wash.
Gray Flemish Giants Fur Bearing Chinchillas New Zealand Whites
Pedigree With Every Rabbit
Prices Reasonable
L. S. Farver and Sons
Black and Blue English Spots
Exhibition and Laboratory Cavies
Stock For Sale At All Times
575 Crosby Street AKRON, OHIO
Chinchilla Rabbits from Stahl’s Gold Certificate Strain. All Pedigreed and some Registered
Best That Money Can Buy
Write Us Your Wants Also have New Zealand Reds at Reasonable Prices R. 2
Registered Pedigreed Stock
Steels — Blacks Natural Grays
Write for Description and Prices
All Stock Sold Guaranteed Official Registrar
S. V. WILLIAMS & SON Proprietors
Key mar Maryland
An Excellent Grade
Rolled Oats and Rolled Barley Milled Especially for Rabbit Feed. Ask for Free Sample and Prices in Local Shipments and Carloads.
Extra Fancy Rabbit Alfalfa
We Specialize in Carload Shipments
218 West Colorado Avenue Colorado Springs, Colorado
Flemish Giants
American Blue
422 North Beaver
Flagstaff, Arizona
C. C. Phelps, Proprietor
Breeder of
936 North Broadway, De Pere, Wisconsin
Flagstaff, Ariz.
“Specializing in FUR Chinchillas”
We use only Pedigreed and Registered Stock for breeding purposes. These animals are raised at an altitude of seven thousand feet, under severe weather conditions, and as a result develop wonderful fur and are strong, healthy animals. A start with our Chinchillas insures success in the rabbit business. We glady quote prices upon request.
Organized in 1916 by Breeders and for Breeders
New Associations Have Come and Gone But The American "Goes On Forever”
This book is a sample of what we are doing for our members as all members receive a copy FREE.
If you are not a member mail $2.00 today and become a member.
We also publish bulletins and other literature and mail free to all requesting same.
ALL THE SPECIALTY CLUBS are affiliated and working with us which goes to prove we are the Breeders Association and that one National Association is all that is needed.
One National Association—The American One Standard for All Breeders One Judging System One Registration System
For more than one is confusing and harmful to the breeders.
A. WEYGANDT, Secretary 7408 Normal Ave. Chicago, Ill.
GREEN FOODS FOR RABBITS AND CAVIES—Contains chapters on the best cultivated green crops. The section devoted to wild or uncultivated feeds is worth more than the price of the book. Profusely illustrated ...........................................50
CHINCHILLA RABBITS AND ALL ABOUT THEM—By Judge John C. Fehr. Just plain facts, no theory. Tells all you want to know about this wonderful rabbit. Revised edition Just oft the press. Price .................................................50
RABBIT KEEPING FOR BEGINNERS—Fourth edition. Contains reliable information on Housing. Selection of Stock, Breeding Operations. General Management, Feeding, (this chapter on feeding is worth the price of the book to the experienced breeder as well as the beginner) Dressing rabbit for market, Diseases. Price, postpaid .....................................................25
RABBITS FOR FOOD—Deals most completely with a subject of vital importance. Contains much valuable information on Housing, Breeding Stock, General Management, Marketing Rabbit Meat, Dressing and Curing Skins, Diseases. Any one of the chapters in this book is worth the price we ask for the book, and it should be in
the library of every rabbit breeder. Price, postpaid..........25
THE HOME DRESSING OF FURS—Just off the press. Contains much valuable information for the amateur dresser of furs. The information contained in this booklet will help you make a bigger profit out of the rabbit industry. Price, postpaid............25
FUR RABBITS FOR PROFIT—Gives you just the information you want about this rapidly growing industry, each breed being treated in detail. Illustrated with numerous photographs. Price.......50
HOW TO SELL DRESSED RABBITS—Tells you how to increase
your business and thus make more money. This is a book everybody interested in rabbits can use and profit from. It is filled with valuable ideas to help you sell more dressed rabbits. Send now for your copy. Price only ....................................25
JUDGE FEHR’S BOOK ON FLEMISH GIANTS—Just plain facts— no theory. Tells how to breed Flemish successfully. Shows weak and strong points, explains the standard, in fact, tells you exactly what you want to know. Second edition just off the press. Price, postpaid .....................................................50
PERFECTION RABBIT AND CAVY HUTCH RECORD—The Perfection system consists of more than a dozen different forms, each on a page measuring 8½ by 14 inches printed on a good quality white bond paper ruled and cross ruled, tabulated and indexed with special columns and spaces for recording every bit of information essential for the proper conduct of your business.
Box YB, Lamoni, Iowa
"BIG BEN”—Reg. No. 3519-F. Weight 17 lbs. 1st and Special Best Rabbit in Show, Illinois State Show, September, 1926.
“BLUE TOM” II—Reg. No. 35-G. 1st G-8 mo. Blue Flemish Buck, Tampa, Fla., Convention Show, February 1-5, 1928.
Exhibition and Breeding Stock For Sale
L. N. WELLS, Secretary
521 Meade St.
The Colorado Rabbit Breeders’ Meat and Fur Association
When looking for QUALITY STOCK write for list of our membership giving breeds raised by each member
WALESWOOD FEATURES Filing Numbering Ear-Marking Line-Breeding Breeding Records Young Stock Record Daily Routine Program
A PUZZLE is a fascinating thing to solve, but when it comes to puzzling over your rabbit record system, you cannot afford to be fascinated. You need a system that is simple and complete, and yet elastic enough to take care of your needs for all time without any changes, regardless of how many breeding animals you may have, whether 10, 100, 1000 or more. A search for a system that will meet these requirements will be brief, for the WALESWOOD SYSTEM is the only complete breeding record system on the market. It was designed by a rabbit breeder for rabbit breeders. If you are just getting started, why not start right? It will save you time and money. If you are having trouble with your records, why not change over now? The longer you delay the harder it will be. Send at once for our free instructive circular and convince yourself that the Waleswood way is the only way to keep rabbit records.
Waleswood Rabbitry and Pur Farm
Dept. H Office
1954 University Av St. Paul, Minn.
ADELINE SARGENT, Prop. Stahl's Registered Chinchillas Also Flemish Giants and Cavies REEDS’ FERRY, N. H.
SEVILLE, OHIO, R. D. NO. 1 New Zealand Reds, Champagnes, Chinchillas
ALL PEDIGREED STOCK Your money’s worth or your money back
Members A. R. & C. B. A. and Akron R. & C. C.
Chinchillas, Himalayans American Blues and Whites
Our show records for the past year are hard to beat. Eleven entries took 8 firsts, 2 seconds, 1 third, 1 special. Seven entries took 4 firsts, 3 seconds. Five entries took 3 firsts, 2 seconds, and 2 specials. Five entries took 3 firsts, 1 second, 1 third. A total of 18 firsts, 8 seconds, 2 thirds, and 3 specials, for 28 entries.
Chinchilla Juniors $5.00 each. Himalayan Juniors $3.00 each. American Blue or White Juniors $3.00 each.
Watsonville, Calif.
English T. & W. Cavies
716 Gladstone Ave., Roland Park
Baltimore, Maryland No Shipments Under $5.00
200 Acres in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan Devoted Exclusively to Fur Farming
Our stock of CHINCHILLAS represent the finest obtainable domestic and imported blood lines.
MODERN RABBITRIES, light, clean and airy mean healthy animals raised under ideal conditions, while foundation stock of the best we could buy assures you of the finest fur and excellent type.
Several hundred to choose from at all times.
Address All Communications to
Iron Mountain, Michigan
The Archie Rabbitry and Beaver Ranch
STUD RECORD CARDS—Just the form you need if you keep track of what your stud bucks are doing. Printed on tough stock. Ten for 10c; 50 for 40c; 100 for 75c; postpaid.
CERTIFICATE OF BREEDING—For the use of those having stud bucks, who give a certificate with each service. Prices 12 for 20c; 25 for 35c; postpaid.
BREEDING RECORD HUTCH CARDS—A necessity in all rabbitries. One should be placed in every hutch. They give the parentage, day born, ear number, selling price, sex. If doe, who served by, date tested, kindled, number of young, number weaned, notes. Printed on tough tagboard. Prices, 10 for 10c; 50 for 40c; 100 for 75c; postpaid.
YOUNG STOCK RECORD CARDS—For keeping track of your young stock after it is weaned. Prices 12 for 10c; 50 for 35c; 100 for 65c; postpaid. State breed.
PEDIGREE BLANKS—For any breed of rabbits. Printed in neat form on fine bond paper. Prices 12 for 20c; 25 for 35c; 50 for 50c; 100 for 90c; postpaid. State breed.
PEDIGREE BOOKS—50 originals and 50 duplicates, postpaid $1.00.
BREEDING RECORD—An inexpensive record that should be in every rabbitry printed on tough tagboard. Prices 25 for 20c; 50 for 35c; 100 for 60c; postpaid.
SHIPPING TAGS—Designed especially for the shipment of rabbits and cavies. This tag is printed on a good heavy cardboard and is very attractive. The price, 12 for 35c; 25 for 70c; 50 for $1.25; 100 for $2; postpaid.
NOTICE TO EXPRESS MESSENGERS—Printed in an attractive manner that catches the eye of the express messenger with the result that your rabbits are properly looked after. Prices 25 for 20c; 50 for 40c; 100 for 75c; postpaid.
Box YB, Lamoni, Iowa
The Belcroft Strain of Thoroughbred Exhibition Stock
Chinchillas—Havanas—Goudas English—Dutch—Tans
Correspondence Invited
Member of All Licensed Registrar
Specialty Clubs A. R. & C. B. A., Inc.
25 Benedict Ave., Valley Stream, L. I.
New York State Representative for A. R. & C. B. A., Inc.
The Up-and-Coming Rabbit
We Raise Only the Best
“They Make the Grade”
Route 2, Box 193, Park Center Canon City, Colo.
For Strictly High Class
Fully Up to Standard Weight for Age
Write to
w. I.
214 East Logan Street CLARINDA, IOWA
Fancy and Utility Stock Different Breeds
Solid and Broken Colors
White Mice, Colored Mice Japanese Waltzing Mice
760 Arapahoe Ave. SALT LAKE CITY UTAH
Enclose Stamp for Reply
Breeders of
Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds
Stock for Sale at All Times
Your Guarantee
of Purity
Richard P. Orme, Manager VAN DYKE, MICHIGAN
Weight — Color — Fur Quality
Black Diamond Queen, No. S-138-G, Weight 11 pounds
Bred from Stahl’s Gold Certificate Standard Stock. The Litter Sired by Sta Chin. Champ. 11, Dec. 12, 1927. Are All Heavyweights at this time. A few Bucks of this litter for sale. Standards for sale at reasonable prices.
E. C. KUBINZKY, Mgr. Breeders of
Standard Chinchillas White N. Z. Cavies
Prize Winning Stock Satisfaction Guaranteed Tacoma, Wash.
7034 South D Street
First Quality Chinchillas White
New Zealands Cavies, Etc.
C. BRADLEY, Mgr. Wilton, Conn.
$1.00 Per Pound from 4 to 17 1/2 Lbs. From Prize Winners Raised in Outdoor Hutches 7500 Feet Above Se aLevel Rabbits with Real Fur All Pedigreed or Registered
Morley, Colorado
R. R. No. 1 Wadsworth, Ohio
Breeder of Quality
New Zealand Reds American Blues and
Flemish Giants
Visitors Always Welcome Satisfaction Guaranteed
Member of A. R. & C. B. A.
The Specialty Club with a Heart and Soul
For $1.00
You Become a Member of This Live Organization
Our Blue Guide Book Free
Contains 150 pages of helpful information about Breeding, Housing, Feeding, Conditioning for show. Tanning, Killing, Dressing, Furs, Judging, Standards, Disqualifications, besides forty odd cuts and illustrations of Flemish Giants and besides Ribbons, Cups, and Specials offered at the leading shows.
Our object, aim, and principle:
The purpose of this Federation is to unite all Breeders of the Flemish Giant Rabbits into one large body, having as its object:
To educate the public to the wonderful possibilities of this interesting breed; To encourage the breeding and advancement of the Flemish Giant Rabbit; To seek publicity for our Favorite and to have same become universally known; To perfect same not only as an Exhibition animal, but also for utility purposes; To hold Exclusive Flemish Giant Exhibitions, or Exhibitions in conjunction with other shows; to have all Official Federation Shows sanctioned by the Board of Governors; To offer suitable prizes and trophies, as well as Special Ribbons, etc.; to encourage the adoption of one, and encourage the breeding of Flemish for Meat and Fur.
Chairman, JOHN C. FEHR, Indianapolis, Ind.
Secretary-Treasurer, LEWIS S. J. GRIFFIN Colorado Springs, Colo.
OSCAR F. SCHULTZ, Norwalk, Conn.
A. M. STUMP, New Castle, Pa.
JACK VILLAR, San Jose, Calif.
E. A. ENSLEN, Lima, Ohio DENNIS MIERAS, Grand Rapids, Mich.
Every Flemish Giant breeder should belong. It’s your duty to help promote this breed, and your $1.00 can help us, help the Flemish Giant.
Join Now Join Now
Lewis S. J. Griffin, Secretary, Colorado Springs, Colo.
Breeders of Pure Bred New Zealand Whites, Chinchillas, Blue Eyed White Beveren, Rufus Red and Gray Belgians. Also breeders of Colored Guinea Pigs. We have them in Reds, Whites, Steel Grays, Black, Chocolate Browns, Creams, and Tortoise and White.
OTTO J. ZORN R. R. 1, Warren, Michigan
Breeder of New Zealand Reds and Whites from Prize Winning Stock
Wm. BECKER Manager
Sheridan, Wisconsin
Satisfaction Guaranteed or Money Refunded
High Grade
Flemish Chinchillas Standard and Heavy Weight Chinchillas
All pedigreed and healthy. Winning at leading shows. Also dealer in Fehr Rabbit Supplies, as well as books and Palvo for fleas on all pet stock and rabbits — 35 cents for six ounce can.
Blaine Fisher, Prop. Rices Landing, Pa.
For Chinchilla Breeders
Prize Winners Wherever Shown
Registered If Desired
A wonderful fur rabbit. Guaranteed Standard, if not, money refunded.
STEWART 800 West 17th St. Hutchinson, Kansas
Carleton Club Rabbitry
Importers and Breeders of the FINEST in Rabbits Chinchillas
White Flemish Giants ( 12 pounds and up)
White Beverens Blue Beverens
Many Prize Winners Head the
Carleton Club Strain
Licensed Registrar
Members of all the Leading Rabbit Breeders Associations of America
“CARL HINSHAW, the man who brought REAL RABBITS to Florida.”
The Best Fur Rabbit
The “Pacific Strain” Developed by MRS. HACKETT GREGERSON
Prize Winners Since 1915
“Finest Fur and Blackest Feet”
Also French Havanas and Chinchillas from Registered Prize Winning Stock
“Why Dye? Be Natural”
P. O. Box 504, Mt. Eden Road Hayward, Calif.
Now Owned and Operated by Mrs. L. M. Turner and Miss Dorothy Turner
Successors to Mrs. Hackett Gregerson
Every Animal Guaranteed, Pedigreed, and from Prize Winning Stock
Prices Reasonable
“Quality—Not Quantity”
Breeders, Shippers, Importers, and Exhibitors of
Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds
Stock for Sale at All Times Prices Reasonable. Satisfaction Guaranteed ST. ANTHONY, IDAHO
Pioneer Angora Wool Farm on the Pacific Coast Imported pedigreed and registered English champion stock. Only first class Woollers kept. Have consistently won at all shows. Never been beaten in Canada or United States.
Chinchilla Our Specialty
Registered and Pedigreed Stock Write Us for Your Wants or Better Come and See Us
STAHL’S Gold Certificate Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds for sale, from five to eight months old. We have registered stock only of the best type as to color, weight, and health. Raised under the best of sanitary conditions. Write for price lists.
White Angora Wool Rabbits
The Genuine Woolers Imported from England Lady Byng’s Strain and D. MacDougall’s Hardy, Prolific and Profitable Bring Returns All the Year Round
Trios — $25.00, at 4 to 6 months old
Mrs. Bradley-Dyne
Seaside Rabbitry R. M. D. 1
Parksville, Vancouver Island, B. C., Canada
Member of A. R. & C. B. A. Member of A. F. of N. Z. B. Member of Southeast Rabbit Club
The Leading Meat and Fur Producing Rabbit Today
We have the Type, Fur, and Bone you are looking for. You can forget your weight worries with my strain of WHITE NEW ZEALANDS They make 4 pounds at 2 months of age with ease.
Prize Winners Wherever Shown
With Latest Feeding Devices
Single Deck, 2 Compartments—A blueprint showing all details and a complete bill of material. 60ȼ Postpaid.
Double Deck, 4 Compartments—A blue print showing all details and a complete bill of material. 60ȼ Postpaid.
Or both the above blue prints for $1.00 Postpaid.
If you can read this “ad” you can build hutches from these plans.
This breed was recently imported by Ed. Stahl’s Outdoor Enterprise Co. Why not get in on the big demand for Breeding Stock that will follow? These rabbits weigh from 7 to 9 lbs. and have a fur of wonderful soft texture, very dense and thick, and are a breed you will be proud of.
Opportunity Is Knocking
166 Cudahy St. Walnut Park, Calif.
Sterling on Silver, Fittin on Rabbits
Breeder of High-Grade Blue Beveren, White Beveren and New Zealand Whites
Pedigreed and Registered Stock I Sell the Best and Pelt the Rest Satisfaction Guaranteed Route 4, Wenatchee, Wash.
Breeder of
High Grade Flemish Giant Rabbits
In Steel Black and Light Grey Young Stock for Sale at All Times 515 S. Cherry Street Myerstown, Pa.
Breeder, Exhibitor
Havanas, Chinchillas, Himalayans, Dutch
Member: Havana Club, American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, Eastern Rabbit Breeders Association.
Box 225, Cranford, N. J.
High Grade Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds
Show Quality
906 West 21st Street Lorain, Ohio
Breeder and Shipper of
High Grade Rabbits
Bankoski’s Strain Gray and Dark Steel Gray
Strong and Very Good in Health
Write or Call Personally Visitors Are Welcome
Breeder and Shipper of Registered and Pedigreed
Chinchilla Fur RABBITS
Imported Stock Write Me Your Wants Stock Guaranteed
Box 454
Lennox, So. Dakota M. D. FOKKEN, Mgr.
Member - A. R. & C. B. A.,
D. R. & F. A. B. A.
Breeder of Pedigree Stock
Flemish Giants and Chinchilla Rabbits
Also Cavies of Quality I can supply you with high class English cavies in solid and broken colors. Write me for prices.
GEORGE W. MILLER P. O. Box 51 Bellingham, Mass.
Breeders of
Pedigreed Chinchillas and Flemish Giants
C. W. YOST, Prop.
R. F. D. No. 2 New Ringgold, Pa.
The Pet Stock Journal and Hares and Rabbits
Monthly magazine devoted to care of rabbits and other fur-bearing animals and small stock
The small stock magazines are the backbone of the industry. They are deserving of every breeder’s support. We have fought your battles, and are still fighting them. The least you can do is to
1302 Woodlawn Ave.
Yearly subscription price $1.00 Three years for $2.00 Send 10 cents for sample copy to
Indianapolis, Ind.
Mineralize Your Rabbit Food
Just Right
(With Cod Liver Oil and Yeast)
Here is a concentrated rabbit mineral supplement. It makes healthier foundation stock, increases flow of milk, thus enabling does to raise larger litters, sturdier young, larger frames, more tasty flesh, finer pelts—and a sure disease preventative. It pays bigger returns on the investment than any other one thing that breeders can buy.
One satisfied user writes: “By feeding this mineral we find our rabbits are growing faster and are making much larger animals. To prove what it will do, we took two pens and the pen that was fed the mineral was sold for market six days before the other."
Besides putting weight on the rabbits, this mineral will practically eliminate all sickness that rabbits have, especially the scours. We believe it to be an absolute remedy for scours.
Prove It in Your Own Hutches
“Just-Rite’’ Rabbit Mineral is the cheapest to feed because it is 100% digestible, and will do all and more than we claim in keeping, your rabbits healthy and promoting quicker growth.
Five pounds of “Just-Rite’’ Rabbit Mineral will be sent to you postpaid for $1.00; west of Rocky Mountains and Canada $1.25.
Iowa Sales Company
Lamoni, Iowa
Box G B
Breeder of High Class Registered Stock Numerous Prizes Wherever Shown Mature and Young Stock Always on Hand
Address Your Requirements to
Member of A. R. & C. B. A.
B. C. P. R. B. A.
If better stock could be produced we would have it. We offer only one grade, the highest, and all stock sold can be exhibited with pride in any show room.
Those thinking of entering the rabbit business should remember the cheapest insurance against failure is to start with the best. Those wishing to improve their strain would do well to investigate the breeding.
W. S. ESTLER, Proprietor
Barboursville W. Virginia
A Great Outpouring of Goodwill for Gold Seal Rabbits
They are universally recognized as being the best foundation stock.
CHINCHILLAS and WHITE BEVERENS from prize winning breeding stock.
Our booklets and prices will promptly be forwarded to you upon request.
Gold Seal Rabbitry
Polar Brand Registered Chinchillas
Bred from Very Best Stock For Sale at Reasonable Prices
2,000 Animals. Booklet 4ȼ
Visitors Are Always Welcome at Our Plant Correspondence and Business Are Cordially Invited IRVIN W. DIETRICH, Prop.
(A. R. & C. B. A. Registrar)
SUMMIT RABBITRY, Bernharts, Penna.
R. L. Wilson, Proprietor
FLEMISH GIANTS—Pedigreed. Select individuals for sale.
CHAMPAGNE DE ARGENTS—The kind that please. NEW ZEALAND REDS—That we know you will like. WRITE YOUR WANTS
Address R. L. WILSON
Registered and Pedigreed Stock
Route 3 Box 45A
Largest Flemish Rabbitry in Michigan
Light Sandy Steel Gray
Pedigreed and Registered Stock
13 to 17 lbs.
Breeding True to Color
Ayes and Weights Guaranteed C. FRANEK Proprietors H. BEND
Angora Woolers
New Zealand Whites American Blues Himalayans
Tortoise and White
(N. W. Wolf)
We are in the fur production business as a result of making a very careful survey of the industry. We are convinced that fur farming is a very profitable line and like other livestock, the best quality is most profitable.
Therefore we are building up strains of the best obtainable stock.
Office, 206 F. & M. Bank Bldg. Walla Walla, Washington Ranch at College Place — Four Miles from Walla Walla
Dutch Havanas and White Flemish Giants
Also Young Stock For Sale Prize Winners and Registered Stock 4840 Cote Brilliante Ave. ST. LOUIS, MO.
B. H. TOWERY, MGR. Plainview, Texas
Stahl's Golden Certificate Chinchilla
The Golden West Strain of American Blue Rabbits
We Guarantee Satisfaction Write for Prices
821 Woodview Road Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Breeders of NEW ZEALAND REDS of Quality All rabbits sold are from registered and pedigreed stock. Guaranteed to be as represented. We answer all inquiries promptly, detailing quantity, age, sex, weight, quality, and price of all available stock for sale.
Members of A. R. & C. B. A. and A. F. N. Z. B.
High Grade Chinchilla Rabbits
BIG TYPE REGISTERED DUROC HOGS We Solicit Orders from Distributors and Breeders Who Desire a Good Foundation Stock City Office 1119 Edgemont Avenue Chester, Penna.
Get Started in Fur Farming
Fur has to be raised in captivity for the rapid clearing up of forests and draining of swamps is forcing the wild fur bearers into extinction. Furs have been going up steadily for the past twenty years — the demand far exceeds the supply.
You do not have to have a large amount of space — you can start in your own backyard if necessary —and you do not have to have previous experience for the free books and instructions we send to our customers tell you just what to do.
If you want to make more money—if you want to develop a business of your own —if you want to build up a real in- | come so you can be independent — then get started in Fur Farming.
Many people are now I making steadily increasing profits from Fur Bearing Animals —and you can do the same thing and start in your spare time if necessary.
Write and tell us which Animals you would be the most interested in — and about how much money you want to put into breeding stock. Then we’ll send you free details, without any obligation to you, and tell you how you can get started.
Fill Out and Mail Coupon for Free Information
Ernest R. Conrad and Associates, Inc.
Box 720, Conrad’s Ranch Denver, Colo., U. S. A.
Please send me facts on..........................................
(Fill In What Animals You Are Interested In)
I have about $............... to put into breeding stock now.
Your Name .................................................
Your Address ..............................................
Standard Chinchillas and Heavyweight Chinchillas
Standard Havanas and Heavyweight Havanas Red and White New Zealands Flemish Giants
Licensed Registrar and Judge for the A. R. & C. B. A.
Also Licensed Poultry and Livestock Judge
Write Me Your Wants for Prices and Show Dates
914 13th Street
Brooks Lake Rabbitry
Newawaygo, Michigan
American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders’ Association
Chicago Rabbit and Cavy Breeders’ Association
American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders’ Association
Great Lakes Rabbit and Pet Stock Club
New Zealand Rabbit Breeders’ Association
Shepherd Dog Club of America
Shepherd Dog Club of New England
Am. Game Protective and Propagation Association
Thoroughbred Rabbits, Meat Rabbits, Cavies and Other Fur Bearing Animals
Write Your
In the Rabbit Business For Profit?
Of Course You Are?
Then you are losing money if you fail to read “SUCESS-FUL RABBIT BREEDING” each month. Ours is a National magazine that covers the entire field like a blanket. Cover is a beautiful five-color process design. A large three column, 24 page publication filled and running over with practical, helpful articles from the pens of America’s foremost rabbit authorities. It turns failure into success and makes the successful more successful. Pointers, tips and suggestions galore. Equally valuable for beginner and old timer alike. Keeps you posted.
Many departments, including one on rabbit advertising, the most vital and important thing a rabbit breeder should know. Invest a dollar for year’s subscription, or send 10c for sample copy. None free—too valuable.
An Excellent Advertising Medium
“Successful Rabbit Breeding” carries the ads of the leading breeders, and they are getting BIG RESULTS. You, too, should use our columns.
Send Today—RIGHT NOW—Before You Forget It
Hustling Publishing Co.
Lane at James Kalamazoo, Michigan
Breeders and Exhibitors of Prize Winning Pedigreed and Registered
Al so New Zealand Whites and Flemish Giants
Winnings under Judge Griffin, Woolery and Carter
Members of A. R. & C. B. Assn.
A. C. R. B. Assn N. F. of F. G. B.
No. Idaho R. B. Assn.
Licensed Registrar for A. R. & C. B. Assn.
Write Us Your Wants Visitors Always Welcome
36 Southard Avenue, Baldwin, N. Y.
Member of A. R. & C. B. A., A. Ch. B. A., E. R. B. A.,
N. R. F.
I have some fine Junior stock for sale, in fact of the best money can buy.
The awards won at the E. R. B. A. Silver Trophy Show 1927 are 2 Blue, 2 Red, 1 Green Ribbon, 1 Silver Medal, Cup for best display of Chinchillas, Cup for best display of Junior Stock. Entries eleven head.
Dr. C. L. Wyeth, Owner and Manager Registrar in American Association Newark, Ohio
Breeders of the finest strains of pedigreed and registered Havanas, Chinchillas, Flemish Giants, American Blues, and other standard varieties of Rabbits. Sturdy Stock in Cavies.
We invite inquiries and will give all letters our individual attention.
My Specialty
One variety only. Finest quality pedigreed. Bred from registered and recorded stock. Write me your wants. Information cheerfully given.
Member: A. R. & C. B. A., A. C. R. B. A., Ga. and Fla. R. & C. Club.
T. C. Griffin, Prop.
P. O. Box 243 Valdosta, Ga.
For Sale at All Times
Breeders and Young Stock from Registered Does Write for Prices
Stahl’s Outdoor Strain Fully Pedigreed
Write. Satisfaction Guaranteed
Member of A. R. C. B. and A. C. R. B.
1111 No. Broadway Rochester, Minn.
All Registered Rabbitry TYPE WEIGHT
All Stock registered and from prize winning Strains. Ancestors, as far back as five and six generations, bred and blended from the famous strains of W. I. Carpenter, E. E.
Kerr, L. E. Safley, and Golden Palace Rabbitries. Pull description given of each individual and copy of pedigree sent on request.
I have plenty of stamps and every letter will be cheerfully answered.
Bred in the cold Saskatchewan climate they are hardy, healthy, and vigorous and in the country that produces the highest grade of furs. Highest grade Chinchillas from prize winning registered stock.
Importer, Breeder, and Exporter
Wm. Mackay, Prop.
P. O. Box 285
Swift Current, Saskatchewan, Canada Licensed Registrar, A. R. & C. B. A.
240 West Eighth Street DALLAS, TEXAS
Ex-Cel-So Salt Spools
Our Salt Spools Keep Your Stock Healthy
and in Condition
Animals in captivity need a better salt than those running wild since they do not have the same exercise. In their native state that obtained from salt licks and springs will do. Your domesticated animals must have the purest obtainable. Rabbits and cavies need it as a natural conditioner. It helps them assimilate their food, keeps the digestive organs in normal condition, purifies the blood, and keeps the fur smooth and sleek as prize winners in the shows.

Pure salt spool is a pure white spool of pure salt. It sells at $1.00 per dozen postpaid.
The sulphurized spool has sulphur added to pure salt. The health value of sulphur is well known, making the sulphurized spool the best health giving spool. It sells for $1.00 per dozen postpaid.
The mineral spool has mineral salts added to the sulphurized spool. It contains 12 health giving salts of the earth. Nothing is better as a conditioner for all kinds of animals and humans. $1.25 per dozen postpaid. EX-CEL-SO salt spools are used by leading rabbitries everywhere. Mention dealer's name with your order.
Order direct or from our representative. A trial will convince you.
Use This Handy Order Blank NOW
EX-CEL-SO salt spools are made from the purest kiln dried evaporated salts under hydraulic pressure. It is the only spool so made. It is guaranteed against dissolving in damp weather or crumbling. Tack them on the side of the hutch and the rabbits or cavies may use them as they wish. A spool will last over six months. There are three kinds.
Find enclosed $
, Lamoni, Iowa
for which send me the following EX-CEL SO Salt
. . Doz. Pure Salt at $1.00 Per Doz.
..Doz. Sulphurized at $1.00 Per Doz.
—Doz. Mineral at $1.25 Per Doz.......
Money Back If Spools Do Not Prove Satisfactory
Mr. Henry Tholl
Breeder of
New Zealand Reds and Guinea Pigs
Phone Pullman 3162 11519 Princeton Avenue CHICAGO, ILLINOIS
Always in the Market for
Cavies and Rabbits
We specialize in New Zealand Reds, “That Are Red,” Black and White Dutch, and Champagne De Argent Rabbits. Cavies both Fancy and Laboratory Stock. Get our Buy Back Contract.
Ayers Small Animal Industries
Box 848
Oklahoma City, Okla.
Breeder of High Class
In Grays, Steels and Blacks Also Havanas
G. H. LOOSE, Prop.
National Judge
35 Bond Street Phone 1496 R Ashtabula, Ohio

Breeder and Exhibitor of Pedigreed Stock Light Gray, Sandy Gray, Steel Gray, White and Blue
Stock for Sale at All Times
“Better Breeding Brings Better Bunnies”

Good Stock at All Times Also Always in Market for Good Stock
Basler, Wyoming
Raising Chinchillas exclusively of Stahl’s Gold Certificate Stock. Fine selection of Silver Black Foxes.
Breeder of the Wonderful Chinchilla Rabbits
All Our Breeding Stock Pedigreed and Registered
Rudolph Priebe
4107 Marmora Avenue Chicago, Illinois
Pedigreed and Registered if Desired
American Trained Canary Singers
Mammoth Bronze Turkeys
Turkeys, Eggs, Baby Turkeys
Breeders in Season
MRS. MARY WESLEY Graham Washington
Gold Certificate Chinchilla
Prices Reasonable
MR. and MRS.
Grand Junction Colorado
Famous for Fur
Am selling a few choice youngsters from Registered parents at prices right for quality. Correspondence solicited.
644 Jackson St. Pasadena, Calif.
Breeder and Exhibitor Of Prize Winning
New Zealand Reds and Whites French Silvers Flemish Giants Silver Blacks Havanas
Member of A. R. & C. B. Ass'n
A. F. of N. Z. B.
Y. V. R. B. Ass’n
Prices Right L. E. Carlisle, Prop.
R. F. D. 2 Prosser, Wash.
Following this policy produces quality rather Ilian quantity; nevertheless our prices will stand comparison.
All stock sold is raised in our own hutches. Inquiries receive prompt attention.
The Dearborn Strain
The Dearborn Rabbitry
297 Coe Road Clarendon Hills, Ill.

Pocket where mucus forms and Bacteria multiplies, which is the reason the sinusis should be washed out.
Anatomy of a Rabbit’s Head
When we first started out to develop a remedy to combat colds and so-called snuffles our first experiments consisted of remedies in food and water. These proved to be a failure. We then worked with various vaccines over a period of two years.
Then to our surprise on killing a rabbit, freezing the head, and sawing it through the center, in order to separate the nostrils, we found two sinuses (nostrils) as deep as an ordinary pencil running the entire length of the rabbit’s head. These were full of yellow cheesy mucous, and with laboratory tests we soon found why attempts with vaccine had failed, since the blood supply was not sufficient to allow the vaccine to have effect upon the infected area.
These discoveries proved the existence of a purely nasal condition—very similar to chronic catarrh, which sooner or later may be developed by any rabbit.
This brought us to the development of a remedy of germicidal nature—strong enough to kill the germs from the mucous which are passed from the nostrils to the front feet and then into the hutch, spreading the infection, yet not so strong as to be irritating or poisonous.
As stated before, we were thoroughly convinced that the nasal treatments were the only remedy to remove the cause, and after many experiments we finally settled upon two germicides used in Klo-Fen.
In one we have its healing power and bacterial strength for killing germs, and the other, its germicidal activity is increased at body temperature and germ life is destroyed. This non-toxic and non-irritant penetrates the places that no other drug has been able to reach and destroys all bacterial growth. We have combined the drugs with other healing properties in the manufacture of Klo-Fen, which give you a safe germicide.
KLO-FEN needs no introduction. Ask any big breeder. If you do not get results in a week or ten days with this treatment you may just as well use FEHR'S SURE CURE, the—
A 4-ounce original syringe bottle.............$1.00
After you have syringe, 4-ounce bottle..........75
16-ounce bottle, without syringe............. 2.00
Syringe, extra .................................50
1302 Woodlawn Avenue INDIANAPOLIS
Send for Illustrated Catalogue and Agent's Proposition
R. F. D. No. 3 Plainfield, New Jersey
Flemish Giants
Steel Gray, Natural, and White
New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas
Healthy and Vigorous Stock That Must Satisfy All Sizes and Ages at All Times Prices Reasonable CARL A. HERMANN & CO.
Members of A. R. & C. B. A., N. F. F. G. B., A. C. R. B. A.
It Pays to Raise the Best L. W. GRIFFITH, Mgr.
Box 235 Evans, Colorado
G. W. Hansen W. J. Smith
Specializing in High Grade Chinchillas
American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association
Fred Hutchinson, Proprietor Breeders and Exhibitors
Chinchillas, Flemish Giants, and Cavies
Member of A. R. & C. B. A., American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association, Treasurer G. C. R. B. & F. A., Licensed Registrar.
1148 Cedar Ave., College Hill Cincinnati, Ohio
English Cavies Solid or Broken Colors
American Blues — Whites Chinchillas — Havanas New Zealand Reds — Whites Flemish Whites — Steel — Sandy Gray or Black
675 Delaware
Denver, Colorado
Bred Does and Juniors
From Real Imported Stock—Rollers Only Member of A. R. & C. B. A.
Consistent Winners from
COAST TO COAST For the Past 3 Years WHITE NEW ZEALANDS We Believe In NEW ZEALANDS Write Your Wants
88 Spring St. Stoneham, Mass.
3328 Forty-eighth Avenue South
Vigorous, Healthy
Outdoor Raised
Foundation Stock
"You Must Be Satisfied”
Minneapolis, Minn.
Flemish Giants of Quality. Steel, Black, White, Gray. All Breeders, Big Boned, Heavyweight. 15½ to 18 lbs.
Breeders of fine American Standard Chinchilla and Blue Flemish Giants Rabbits and Smooth-haired Commercial Guinea Pigs
Stock usually for sale. Correspondence Solicited. Address
PHOENIX FARM Box 705 Dubuque, Iowa

Breeder of
High Class Pedigreed Chinchilla
White Flemish Giant Rabbits
Wakefield, Va.
Flemish Blue Beverens French Havanas and
Globe City Rabbitry, Reg.
132 East State Street GLOVERSVILLE, N. Y.
Breeder and Exhibitor
New Zealand Red and Whites White Flemish Lilacs
Havanas and Rufus Reds
Pedigreed Stock Only Your Correspondence Solicited
4058 Cherokee Ave. SAN DIEGO, CALIF.
T. L. De Witt Judge and Registrar
New Boston, Michigan Breeder of Pedigreed
Checkers Chinchillas Flemish Giants Black and Tans
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Route 5, Box 327
Sired by a 12-lb. Buck that never has produced a pink-eyed youngster.
HEAVY WEIGHT CHINCHILLAS Sired by a registered 10-lb. Buck.
Stamped Envelope for Quick Reply
Home of
New Zealand Red
Some of Best Blood Lines Some Pedigreed
“Yours for Success” w. J. GRACE, Prop. Clearfield, Iowa
Chinchillas, New Zealand Whites and Reds, Silver Martins, and Checker Giants. All bred to American Standard. We specialize in fine breeding stock and Square Dealing. We are here to stay.
Chinchillas, Havanas, Lilacs and White New Zealand Rabbits from Prize Winning Stock. Good Color, Type, and Fur Quality. All stock pedigreed and eligible for registration.
Route No. 8, Box 154 Minneapolis, Minn.
Breeder and Exhibitor of Prize Winning
Ideal for Meat, Pelts, and Exhibition
118 Lowell Blvd. DENVER, COLORADO “At It 10 Years”
Our Chinchillas possess pelts of supreme beauty and density. All stock pedigreed and eligible for registration. We have young stock for sale from Prize Winners at the largest Western Stock Shows. Priced to sell.
Satisfaction Guaranteed
660 North 5th St. LARAMIE, WYOMING
Are Bred for Type and Color
and Will Please You Write Your Wants
Few But Fine Breeders a Specialty
Pedigreed and Registered Stock from the Best Blood Lines
Member: A. R. & C. B. A., A. F. N. Z. B., W. C.
R. B. A.
I. D. Brown, Jr., Prop.
3214 Milby Ave. Wichita Falls, Texas
Faye A. Parks, Prop.
Chinchillas Brown Havanas and
Healthy, Pedigreed Stock
128 Avon St.
New London, Wisconsin
R. H. SHARROW Morrisville, Vermont
For Size and Quality Try
White, Steel, Gray, Black Fully Pedigreed Breeders a Specialty Stock guaranteed to weigh 5 lbs. and up when 3 months old.
Price $5.00 to $25.00 each according to age and quality.
All Parent Stock Registered
Satisfaction or Money Back
H. E. SPESSARD Schoolfield Danville, Va.
Breeder and Registrar for A. R. & C. B. A. and Member of N. F. & F. G. B.
Old established Dixieland Rabbitry now in new location and under new management.
Breeding “Dixie” strain of Rufus Red Belgians.
When in the market write for prices. All correspondence promptly answered.
“You Must Be Satisfied
Proprietor Decatur, Ga.
N. M. Cupp
Breeder Exhibitor


Pres. San Fernando Rabbit Breeders Association A. R. and C. B. Ass'n.
A. F. of N. Z. B. American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeder Ass'n.
1070 N. Tujunga Ave. Burbank, Calif.
Guide Books and Standards—Free to members.
Bulletin No. 10—Free (supply exhausted).
Bulletin No. 9, Hints to Beginners—Free.
Pelt Problems Circulars—Free.
Publicity Stickers—Free.
Snuffles in Rabbits, by Dr. Hearkness—Free.
Championship Certificates—Ten free to Associations holding charter with A. R. & C. B. A. for Annual Show.
Special Ribbons—Six given free for Lawn or Table Shows to Associations holding charter with A. R. & C. B. A.
Grand Champion Certificates—Send for application blank.
Following furnished at cost to members postpaid:
Waxed Wrappers, for dressed rabbits, to protect from dust, etc. 2c each postpaid.
Domestic Rabbit Cooking Recipes Circulars, Explaining to the housewife how to prepare the meat. 90c per 100 postpaid.
Rabbit Meat Posters. Colored posters to be framed and hung in Butcher Shops where Domestic Rabbit Meat is sold. 15c each or 2 for 25c.
Membership Buttons. 75c each postpaid.
It is not the Association’s desire to make a profit on these supplies that are sold but by purchasing in large quantities can give the members advantage of these prices regardless of quantity they may desire.
A. WEYGANDT, Secretary
7408 Normal Ave.
Chicago, Ill.
The American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association
Our Association the past three years has published and distrib uted FREE much literature relative to our industry in order to give it publicity and enlighten the public and find this literature has produced results. The following covers this propaganda:
Specialty Clubs
Besides the many local and state associations working and affiliating with us we have the following Specialty Clubs organized to boost their respective breeds and also the industry in general and every breeder should join the one representing his breed of rabbits or if a breeder of cavies, join the Cavy Breeders Association as they all are working in a general way for our industry.
American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Assn.
Ed. Stahl, Secretary, Holmes Park, Mo.
The Federation of Flemish Giant Breeders Lewis S. J. Griffin, Secretary, 812 E. Costella St. Colorado Springs, Colo.
The American Federation of New Zealand Breeders
V. C. Reeder, Secretary, Box 5149, Gateway Station Kansas City, Mo.
The American Blue & White Club Mrs. Etta Powers, Secretary, 125 So. Bon View Ave. Ontario, California
The American Checkered Giants Club
Chas. Wierick, Secretary, 711 Hazlett Ave., N. W. Canton, Ohio
The American English Rabbit Club
W. J. Seyfied, Secretary
The Havana Rabbit Club
C. H. Brown, Secretary, 1362 Getz St., So. Akron, Ohio
The National Belgian Hare Club of America G. G. Van Buren, Secretary, R. F. D. 1, Bedford, Ohio
The American Cavy Breeders Association Roy B. Jones, Secretary, 4904 E. 24th St., Kansas City, Mo.
Send your membership direct to any of the above Secre-taries or mail $2.75 to me and this will cover membership to the A. R. & C. B. A. and any of the above clubs for one year.
Guide Books Free to all A. R. & C. B. A. Members
A. WEYGANDT, Secretary 7408 Normal Ave. Chicago, Ill.
Every Rabbit Breeder—large or small—should have two or more good Carrying Cases to carry stock to lawn shows or other places where no shipping is necessary—taking Doe to Buck for breeding, or in fact any place where it is necessary to carry the animals personally. A good neat case is indispensable. These cases are strong, light, neat and durable—nice walnut finish and will last a lifetime.
Sixe 10x18 inches for Flemish and Large Breeds.
Size 8x14 inches for Chinchillas and Smaller Breeds.
There is nothing more essential to successful rabbit raising than a good nest box. The loss of only one or two youngsters from a good litter will more than cover the cost of a good nest box to say nothing about losing a whole litter. These nest boxes are no experiment but have been used successfully several years. Large enough, but not so large they take up all the hutch space. Remov-able so as soon as youngsters are old enough they can be taken out, thus giving doe and youngsters all the hutch space. Can be folded in a neat compact form so as to take up a small space when not in use and placed in the store room or packed for shipment. The “Safety First” front prevents doe from dragging youngsters out of box, resulting in frozen youngsters in cold weather, and later on, as they grow older, prevents them from getting out to feed until their tender stomachs can digest same, thus preventing bowel trouble. When about three weeks of age, or when able to get out over front “safety board,” it can then be removed and they are then free to come and go at will. At about four weeks, unless weather is too severe, box can then be removed, folded up and stored away for future use, thus giving doe and litter more hutch space.
12x14 inches for Chinchillas and Smaller Breeds.
12x18 inches for Flemish and Larger Breeds.
Weygandt’s Light Strong Shipping Crates
Just the crate to ship breeding and exhibition stock to your customers and thus save on express charges and also makes a nice, neat package for shipment. They come knocked down in 100 lots and can be quickly put together when wanted for use. If you cannot use a hundred get other breeders to club with you as they are only furnished in 100 lots.
Write for circular and prices.
7408 Normal Ave. CHICAGO, ILL.
No Other Supplies Handled